armcomdes

Followed the info in the video. Had to bypass the relay to activate the compressor so I could add refrigerant. Compressor works fine. Got it to almost the green zone.  Relay now is working and half the car has cold air. My next step would be to find the leak using the dye/black light process.

This guy's vid shows how to use the dye. Question is am I up to replacing a condenser (if that's what is leaking). It's a big hob.

The AC on my 2007 ES350 needs some attention (not cooling). I have recommendations on some honest local mechanics, but would a dealership be better equipped to handle a Lexus AC issue specifically? 

I've recharged the system a few times. Recently replaced a relay (to no avail). Now the system won't take a recharge because the compressor isn't engaging, which could be an issue with different relay, switch or sensor.

Is this an issue a Car Diagnostic Scanner could find?

Thanks in advance

Is there a way to pin point a sensor issue before dismantling the dash? 

When trying to top off the refrigerant, you have to set the system to high so it comes on and opens the flow. This isn't happening. Is this a sensor or relay that can be checked and replaced, or is it more complicated than this.

Thanks in advance.

My rear brakes are squealing up a storm while backing up (2007 ES350 - 120,000 miles). The pads are like new and I feel the fronts were doing all the work. I did a complete fluid replacement and that helped with the front to back, but  they are still squealing. I did have an issue many years ago with the rear passenger side caliper piston locking up, but I thought I had loosened it adequately.

My question is, if I replace the one caliper, should I just go ahead and do both? Also, do I go OEM, or what brand would you suggest?

Thanks. I have watched that video -- very comprehensive. I was looking for some simpler culprits like Low refrigerant/Relays/Fuses. Maybe something I overlooked. I'll check the cabin filter. 

2007 ES350

Used ACPro for years. Always worked.
AC light is blinking. I replaced AC relay with no luck
Charged the refrigerant again, but Clutch not engaging. Little window near Out port shows no liquid.
Vents blow regular air.
Is it time for the dealer? Or am I missing something?

Anyone know where I might find instructions/guide for replacing the left rear brake shield on an 2007 ES350? It seems everything must come off to replace it, including the parking brakes. I could wing it, but it would be nice to have some info going in.

Bought sway bar bushings and end links as per the service place. Installed the bushings first. While under the car I find the rear brake splash shield was all broken and flapping around. I broke off the loose parts and magically the noise disappeared. So much for the $1400 estimate they gave me.

I'm thinking of installing new complete strut assemblies on my ES350.

OEM, Monroe, KYB, or Moog? Anyone have experience with which (other than OEM) gives a ride  closest to the original?

I took it to an Auto Spring and Wheel Alignment place nearby and they said new struts all around and sway bar bushings are shot. My question is do I let them put aftermarket struts on? Or should I have my Lexus dealership put in original ride struts?

If I do the job myself, which aftermarket struts should I go with? Rock Auto has KYB and Moog assemblies.

I have had a rattle in the back of my 2007 ES350 for some time now.

Thinks I know it's not:
- Muffler/shield related (new center exhaust pipe w/cats just replaced);
- Parking brake related;
- Rear brake dust shields a pretty bad but aren't the source of noise
- Stabilizer bar moves a bit but not noisily, and the bushings are OK

With the car up on jack stands, I shook the car and it sounded like it was coming from the gas tank area, but the tanks are firmly attached. Is there something inside or above the tanks that could have come loose and is rattling around on the bottom of the tank?

Anyone else with a similar issue?

My first AC Pro recharge lasted 2 years. Next, 1 month. Last, 2 weeks.
Do I trust my dealership with the repair? Or should I seek out a third-party repair somewhere in North NJ?

That's a great suggestion. Now I just have to find a reputable shop in Northern NJ. The rear muffler shields are also rattling, so I'd have them tack them in place as well.

I need to replace the flex pipe section of my exhaust system which is part of the Exhaust Header/Manifold/Cat Converter Assembly. Lexus charges $1700, but MagnaFlow has the part for $512, and it seem to be up to spec with the OEM.

Has anyone ever replace one before? Is it a bear of a job? And last but not least, do you need a lift?

After contacting an good mechanic and also my Lexus dealership, I opted to have the dealership have a look. They did a recharge which included a tracer for leaks (@ $210). The A/C is performing like new, so it wasn't a blend door after all. If the A/C continues to work well, we're done. If there are leaks, it could be as easy as tightening a connection, or replacing a major system part.

Thanks to all that gave me advise.

Trevor

When the system is on with both zones set to "LO" (which is the coldest) the Passenger Center Vent blows cold and the Driver Center Vent blows warm. Because of the Dual Zone feature, the two side by side vent can be set to different temps. But it doesn't matter if the Dual botton is pressed or not, warm air continues to blow on the passenger side.

I've already pulled the fuse for the AC and waited 25 minutes as one post suggested. I will search the internet for what you said of the Honda.

On 7/8/2016 at 8:14 PM, gbhrps said:

The second fix, as I alluded to above, involves tearing apart a good chunk of the center console in some cars, in order to get at the HVAC air box and its related actuator motors and wiring harnesses. At this point you'll need to decide whether to try a fix yourself, or leave it to a good independent mechanic (who'll be cheaper than a Lexus tech). Good Luck!

I'm in northern NJ. Any recommendations of a good mechanic to do this work?

Pulled the fuse for the AC and it did not help the problem. So it looks like a fix is in order. Would love to get my hands on a step by step. Haynes/Chilton don't address this type of issue, especially taking apart the console.

It's too bad. The issues comes and goes. Wish it were a maple seed that eventually un-lodges itself.

The shields over my mufflers have loosened and now rattle a bit. Besides install new mufflers and shields, is there any way to sure up or bumper the shields to stop the rattle?

My 2007 Lexus ES350 (105k miles) has the AC putting out warm air to the driver side while cool comes out the passenger side. The car is equipped with a Dual Zone capability. But this is happening when dual zone is off and the unit is set at "LO" or the coldest setting.

I thought maybe a system recharge is in order but one side is very cold. Maybe a fuse/relay/rubber pressure tube?

As a side note to this thread. Your dealer may have lubricated the pins on the rear calipers at your last brake reline. But the road salt in NJ will attack all of those parts very aggressively. Here in NE Ohio we get tons of salt every Winter and it ruins every brake component in 1/2 the normal time.

My 2011 Es came from NW Ohio (certified used) where they get 1/3 the snowfall and therefore 1/3 the salt. The amount of corrosion on the underside of the car is almost zero in comparison.

So you should spec a complete brake job with new lubricant and brake fluid bleed and flush at every reline. I get 200k out of calipers and rotors if I do this even in the harsh severe service environment that I drive in.

Great point!

I recently heard a bit on talk radio about how using a Car Wash to clean the car is almost preferable to hand wash because the undercarriage gets washed/rinsed as well. I can't remember the exact statistics, but the report mentioned that cars that have the undercarriage washed regularly, fair exponentionally better than those that didn't in the corrosion/rust department.

After only 17,000 miles (72,000 to 89,000) with a brake job from Lexus, the left rear pads are down to the wear sensors, while the right rear pads show almost 70% left. Any ideas why one side is wearing out so fast?

The car was a 2 yr. old Certified bought with 38,000 miles on it. It has always been serviced at the same dealership.