mikey00

So only the lights on the shifter panel? What about the lights for the heated seats and headlight washer? What about the radio and AC buttons?

These are all on the same circuit- so if the issue is only with the shifter lights, it's most likely the bulb that's maybe loose or burning out. If it's all three areas, then it's a bigger issue...

Nope - Just the shifter panel. Guess you're right, a loose bulb.......Now if I could only figure out how to get to it!

These directions are for a RX300 but they should be the same.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...lumination.html

It would be interesting to temp the fluid before and aft the "factory cooler in the wheel well " Compared to a cooler in the front of the vehicle. Yes ? What are your drain and fill intervels ? Factory specs or Mobil specs ? Thanks for the info.

Yes, it would be interesting to see the before and after temps of the cooler being that it is not in the best of places. But then again that cooler is just in addition to the one in the bottom of the radiator. It has always been my thought that between the 2 of them they are doing their job being that I have never heard of a RX having a trans temp light come on even under extreme conditions. I always wanted to put a trans temp guage anywhere to to verify that. Even if it was one of those temporary ones with a sending unit screwed into the drain plug. I just feel that a lot people would like to add additional coolers and filters on the RX, rather than fix the planatary gear design problem.

As far as the drain intervals go, I am back to factory specs, which is lifetime. I am not even sure what the Mobil 1 specs are. Of course I am not blindly doing lifetime. I keep a close eye on the fluids visual appearance and will change it if it looks like it needs it.

The fluid in my current RX was nice and clean and red when it was new. By 30K it was looking pretty bad even though Lexus still claimed it was lifetime. I started changing it regularly but it always seemed to get dirty sooner than expected. Now that my trans has been rebuilt with the redesigned planatary gear setup the fluid is staying real clean for over 30K. If it stays that way, I won't feel the need to change it.

You already have 2 stock transmission coolers, one in the bottom of the radiator and the second in the fender well. Fender well isn't the best location but it works. Do you really think there is any advantage to adding a third? The trans definetly has a design problem but I don't see anything that indicates there is a trans cooling problem.

The cooler the fluid the longer the fluid lasts and remains more effective

If the trans fluid is operating at the temp it was designed to, lowering the temp will provide no benefit. Coolers are used when you are operating in a maner that will overheat the fluid (extensive towing, etc). The RX has a trans temp light which will indicate this. The RX has a trans design problem, not a trans temp issue.

I use the cooler to extend the life of the fluid, The tranny only has to heat up to 153 degrees to operate properly, Although full temp is quite above 153, So keeping the fluid cooler is a benefit. ;)

What makes you think fluid running at 153 will last longer than fluid running at let's say 170? I can see the need for an additional cooler (remember you already have 2) if there is a design problem where the tranny runs above the intended temperature or if some use such as extended towing is raising the temp above the design intent. However, throwing on an extra cooler just to lower the temp below the design intent is not always a good idea just because you saw it on some high performance race car.

Not the case that I saw it on a race car :P Tranny fluid at full engine temp runs around 200 degrees so I run 190 or cooler, There is only 1 line that runs through the bottom of the radiator. B) Either way you look at it , The cooler temp extends the life of the fluid.

I am not sure what you mean when you say there is only 1 line that runs through the bottom of the radiator. There is a second factory cooler in the fender well.

The cooler you say that is installed in the fender well is aftermarket, (PICTURES of the aftermarket cooler PLEASE ) Just like the cooler I am refering to. Although the fender well is not the best place for the install. B)

It's not aftermarket. It is factory and has been discussed over and over many times on the forum, along with the pros and cons of the location. Just take a look at your right front fender well. You do have a RX right? This is an RX forum and I was only refering to the RX. It looks like you may have some other Lexus model.

So, If Lexus has a second factory cooler, Then it certainly has benefits, Right ? Back to > ( Is anyone using Mobil1 Syn ATF? Its now T-IV compliant? Any experiences? )

And being that you are already reaping those benefits adding a third cooler as suggested is pointless. It helps to be familiar with the car you are discussing. And yes I am using Mobil 1 ATF for over 30K.

can anyone tell me what this light is indicating? I have both a check engine light, which is the O2 sensor, Bank one sensor one but also have a VSC light on. Are they related or completely different?

You basically have a check engine light on. The VSC comes on with it by design and means nothing.

You already have 2 stock transmission coolers, one in the bottom of the radiator and the second in the fender well. Fender well isn't the best location but it works. Do you really think there is any advantage to adding a third? The trans definetly has a design problem but I don't see anything that indicates there is a trans cooling problem.

The cooler the fluid the longer the fluid lasts and remains more effective

If the trans fluid is operating at the temp it was designed to, lowering the temp will provide no benefit. Coolers are used when you are operating in a maner that will overheat the fluid (extensive towing, etc). The RX has a trans temp light which will indicate this. The RX has a trans design problem, not a trans temp issue.

I use the cooler to extend the life of the fluid, The tranny only has to heat up to 153 degrees to operate properly, Although full temp is quite above 153, So keeping the fluid cooler is a benefit. ;)

What makes you think fluid running at 153 will last longer than fluid running at let's say 170? I can see the need for an additional cooler (remember you already have 2) if there is a design problem where the tranny runs above the intended temperature or if some use such as extended towing is raising the temp above the design intent. However, throwing on an extra cooler just to lower the temp below the design intent is not always a good idea just because you saw it on some high performance race car.

Not the case that I saw it on a race car :P Tranny fluid at full engine temp runs around 200 degrees so I run 190 or cooler, There is only 1 line that runs through the bottom of the radiator. B) Either way you look at it , The cooler temp extends the life of the fluid.

I am not sure what you mean when you say there is only 1 line that runs through the bottom of the radiator. There is a second factory cooler in the fender well.

The cooler you say that is installed in the fender well is aftermarket, (PICTURES of the aftermarket cooler PLEASE ) Just like the cooler I am refering to. Although the fender well is not the best place for the install. B)

It's not aftermarket. It is factory and has been discussed over and over many times on the forum, along with the pros and cons of the location. Just take a look at your right front fender well. You do have a RX right? This is an RX forum and I was only refering to the RX. It looks like you may have some other Lexus model.

You already have 2 stock transmission coolers, one in the bottom of the radiator and the second in the fender well. Fender well isn't the best location but it works. Do you really think there is any advantage to adding a third? The trans definetly has a design problem but I don't see anything that indicates there is a trans cooling problem.

The cooler the fluid the longer the fluid lasts and remains more effective

If the trans fluid is operating at the temp it was designed to, lowering the temp will provide no benefit. Coolers are used when you are operating in a maner that will overheat the fluid (extensive towing, etc). The RX has a trans temp light which will indicate this. The RX has a trans design problem, not a trans temp issue.

I use the cooler to extend the life of the fluid, The tranny only has to heat up to 153 degrees to operate properly, Although full temp is quite above 153, So keeping the fluid cooler is a benefit. ;)

What makes you think fluid running at 153 will last longer than fluid running at let's say 170? I can see the need for an additional cooler (remember you already have 2) if there is a design problem where the tranny runs above the intended temperature or if some use such as extended towing is raising the temp above the design intent. However, throwing on an extra cooler just to lower the temp below the design intent is not always a good idea just because you saw it on some high performance race car.

Not the case that I saw it on a race car :P Tranny fluid at full engine temp runs around 200 degrees so I run 190 or cooler, There is only 1 line that runs through the bottom of the radiator. B) Either way you look at it , The cooler temp extends the life of the fluid.

I am not sure what you mean when you say there is only 1 line that runs through the bottom of the radiator. There is a second factory cooler in the fender well.

It's not the hose behind the airbox or the gas cap. If it was you would get an evap type code like P0440, P441 and P0446. Are you sure it was bank 1 sensor 1 that you changed?

Here is some info I had saved on that code on a RX:

"P01135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Replaced

You can ohm the 2 black wires and you will have an open circuit. The replacement sensor much read between .8 and 1.4 ohms to work properly and not generate the P1135 code. A Denso generic has a resistance of 8 ohms across the heating element and vehicle will still generate a P1135 code. The Bosch replacement would not correct the P1135 code. I did not measure the resistance across the heating element. Installed Toyota 89467-48011 which has resistance of 1.2 ohms and problem is solved."

You already have 2 stock transmission coolers, one in the bottom of the radiator and the second in the fender well. Fender well isn't the best location but it works. Do you really think there is any advantage to adding a third? The trans definetly has a design problem but I don't see anything that indicates there is a trans cooling problem.

The cooler the fluid the longer the fluid lasts and remains more effective

If the trans fluid is operating at the temp it was designed to, lowering the temp will provide no benefit. Coolers are used when you are operating in a maner that will overheat the fluid (extensive towing, etc). The RX has a trans temp light which will indicate this. The RX has a trans design problem, not a trans temp issue.

I use the cooler to extend the life of the fluid, The tranny only has to heat up to 153 degrees to operate properly, Although full temp is quite above 153, So keeping the fluid cooler is a benefit. ;)

What makes you think fluid running at 153 will last longer than fluid running at let's say 170? I can see the need for an additional cooler (remember you already have 2) if there is a design problem where the tranny runs above the intended temperature or if some use such as extended towing is raising the temp above the design intent. However, throwing on an extra cooler just to lower the temp below the design intent is not always a good idea just because you saw it on some high performance race car.

You already have 2 stock transmission coolers, one in the bottom of the radiator and the second in the fender well. Fender well isn't the best location but it works. Do you really think there is any advantage to adding a third? The trans definetly has a design problem but I don't see anything that indicates there is a trans cooling problem.

The cooler the fluid the longer the fluid lasts and remains more effective

If the trans fluid is operating at the temp it was designed to, lowering the temp will provide no benefit. Coolers are used when you are operating in a maner that will overheat the fluid (extensive towing, etc). The RX has a trans temp light which will indicate this. The RX has a trans design problem, not a trans temp issue.

You already have 2 stock transmission coolers, one in the bottom of the radiator and the second in the fender well. Fender well isn't the best location but it works. Do you really think there is any advantage to adding a third? The trans definetly has a design problem but I don't see anything that indicates there is a trans cooling problem.

I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic trans fluid almost 2 years and 30,000 miles ago when it first became T-IV compatible. No problems.

No problems is a good thing! On the flip side, what are the benefits?

No noticeable benefits whatsoever. But then, I had no problems with T-IV. Mobil 1 is a full synthetic and T-IV is a semi synthetic. Some possible benefits are longer life and better protection but that's hard to measure. I have almost 30,000 on a new trans with Mobil 1 and it's very clean. Starting from brand new new my last trans fluid (T-IV) was much dirtier at 30K. But the dirt could have been from the original Lexus trans parts which have now been upgraded.

I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic trans fluid almost 2 years and 30,000 miles ago when it first became T-IV compatible. No problems.

My needs have changed and after a lot of thought I have decided to sell my RX and buy a new Lexus sedan. Still haven't decided on the exact model. Anyone recently sell or buy a RX that can give me any advice? I have a 2001 RX AWD SilverSport with 157K. I am the original owner and have all maintenance receipts from day 1. Oil has been changed every 5k with Quaker semi-synthetic. Car is in excellent condition and has been kept in a heated garage its whole life. I got a new trans about 2 years ago. Engine is still covered by the Lexus sludge warranty. Anybody have any sugestions on what I should ask and where is a good place to list it?

To answer your question, if you buy a used remote off ebay you have to do both programming phases for it to work. But the key blade portion that comes with the remote will already be cut for another car and will not turn in your locks or ignition. So I am not sure exactly you plan to accomplish with this method.

Easiest way to get another remote key is to buy one from sparecarkeys.com or similiar site for about $150. This includes the electronics and the blade cut to your VIN. Then do the 2 programming phases and you are good to go.

From your post it sounds like your mechanic has already read your code and it points to a knock sensor. When your CEL is on from certain codes (knock sensor code is one of them), the ECU prevents the tranny from shifting into 4th. This is by design. Change the knock sensors, get rid of the CEL and it will shift again.

On another note, you did not cause your problem using regular. That is all the RX requires. My guess is your knock sensor was going bad and preimum was needed to prevent knocking. Try regular again once you get your knock sensors replaced.

The malfunction indicator is your check engine light. This is shown on another page in your manual. When you are empty or just about one of your sensors gets a bad reading and produces the code.

Did you have a check engine light on and the battery disconnect reset it?

Text from NHTSA website:

Make: LEXUS Model: RX330

Model Year: 2004

Manufacturer: TOYOTA MOTOR NORTH AMERICA, INC. Mfr's Report Date: NOV 18, 2004

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 04V558000 N/A

NHTSA Action Number: N/A

Component: EXTERIOR LIGHTING:BRAKE LIGHTS:SWITCH

Potential Number of Units Affected: 183090

This may not apply directly to trevenarj's 2005 but what I am saying is that many 05 owners have reported the exact same problem that he is having and have fixed it with this switch replacement.

One more time: This is a common problem on 2005 RX. It is the brake light switch. The TSB may be listed as a 2004 but many have had this problem on a 2005 and repaired it with the brake light switch.

This is a common problem on a 2005 RX. It is a faulty brake light switch. There is a TSB on it.

My trans died shortly after the Toyota dealer did a flush. I also noticed that some Lexus dealers who had a flush machine (most don't) no longer have them.

***Still I need to know if "Ident" means that it is interchangeable when referring to ECM manufacturer number?

I would assume "Ident" is an abbreviation for identical. The only one that can give you a certain answer is the site you saw it on, check with them. Be aware that a used ECM is associated with a master key. Once installed in your car the car will not start without that master key. The ECU would need to be re-flashed to allow you to program your keys. If the ECM is supplied with the master key associated with it, you could then program your keys without re-flashing.

There is a known problem with the ECU that after a CEL has been reset and problem corrected the VSC and Trac lights stay on. This is very common on the Highlanders and seems to happen mostly to 2003 RXs. You need to do a zero point calibration. This is very easily done by connecting certain pins on the OBDII connector. I will try and find the procedure for you.

Edit: Here you go. Read the posts and follow the links within:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;hl=zero+point

2000 RX 300

I had water damage to the car that came in through the brake light housings.

Details here...

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=60116

I am getting a brake caution light (the yellow one that says a brake light bulb is burned out) on the dash but as far as I can tell all 4 bulbs are fine. The light does not come on when the car is first started, but comes on as soon as you push on the brake pedal to shift the transmission. On at least one occasion I pushed the pedal (op check) 3 or 4 times before the light came on. Most times it comes on right away when pushing the brake pedal the first time after starting the car.

Is there a sensor or a part of the wiring harness that may have been damaged by the water, or is there anything else I can troubleshoot to get the light on the dash to go out?

Is it possible that this is a coincidence, and if so, is there anything else I can look at with the brake lights?

Gut feeling is that this is directly related to the water problem.

You need to check the center mounted brake light on the hatch.

Hello,

The Canadian owner's manual states that every 16 000 kms the prop shaft needs to be lubricated. Can someone please provide instructions on how to do this, any tools required, and what products people are using. I would really like to avoid a visit to a Lexus Dealership.

Also, does anyone know if the 2005 RX330 has a timing belt or timing chain as the manual indicates the timing belt needs to be replaced at 144 000 kms

Thanks for everyone's assistance in advance,

Are you sure about the prop shaft lube requirement for the RX? In the US the RX shares a owners manual supplement with the LX-470. It states that the prop shaft lube is only for the LX-470 not the RX.