joelsin

Following up on my original post, I installed the 215/60/16 94H Primacy tires on my ES330. I can't notice an appreciable difference in handling and they ride smooth. I used a local installer who did the tire balancing using stick on wheel weights, installed from the inner sides of the wheel. When I questioned him on this method he said that there was no way to use lead on the outer side of the wheel and that the wheel esthetics using stick on weights. Additionally, he filled the tires with N2 but not until he first filled them with air for balancing purposes. I told him I thought the N2 should have been used initially and not inject air into the tire prior to filling them with N2. As for tire pressure the tires were inflated to 36 lbs above the 29 lbs. the ES330 recommends. The max tire pressure on the tire is 44 lbs. Cost of the tires were 636.00.

Today I spoke with a long standing rep for Costco and he was adamant about running H rated tires on an ES330.

He said that the vehicle handling would change and warned me against ordering the 215/60/16 Primacy H rated Tires.

I've considered going with the Energy S8's and even the Exalto's in a V rated tire. Just recently I checked with

another tire guy with years experience and he warned me about changing from a V to an H. This selection process

is getting to be so complicated and time consuming. Today I called Michelin and spoke with a rep and she confirmed

that the handling of the ES would be affected with the H rated tires. Regardless, I am leaning towards the Primacy H

rated tires. I just finished installing them on my LS430 and they run great.

Do you have an alarm on the car? If so, try not turning it on, I had an alarm on a 735IL that would kill the battery in 2-3 days if the car wasn't being used.

Also, Lexus recommends turning off the remote key unlock feature if your not going to use the car for a while.

Can someone explain exactly how to turn off the remote key unlock feature. My recently acquired 2004 ES330 has a battery that drains on occasion and I can't figure out what is the cause. I have an XM Radio which was added to the vehicle, but is not being used. The other day I changed the air filter and unplugged the connection that connects to the housing. When i tried to start the vehicle the instrument panel indicated a drained battery which was not the case; previously, the battery was starting the vehicle just fine.

I just received a notice from Lexus Motor Sales in CA of a special service campaign to have the link system removed. While I don't mind hearing the car tell me the LINK sysetem is active, I do not see what need there is in having it removed if leaving it installed is not a problem. I called the dealer and asked what would be done should i bring my 2001 - LS430 in for service and was told buttons wouild be removed and a small visor would be installed. I am reluctant to have any changes made that will not affect the preformance of the vehicle in a positive manner. Any thought on the matter are appreciated.

regards,

joe

Yep, I have a 2003 LS430 and the front seats are very hard on the butt. I've spoken to Lexus dealer but to no avail, they just disregard whatever it is you're telling them. A simple solution is to have a soft throw, towel, or lamb skin that you sit on. Place on the seat so it covers all but the last 4 inches of the seat and you will notice a difference in how the seat affects you're butt. Hope this helps, I do the same with my compuer seat when i sit for long periods of time.

regards,

joe

I have a similar problem but it is the hinges.

The LS door is rather heavy and when others who don't "care" a car the way we do open it they throw it open and let the hinges stop it. Problem is the small pins of a hinge are not made to stop a 200 pound monster just keep it upright.

So both of my front door sag slightly and need to be realigned after i replace the hinges. I wish i could replace just the pins but i doubt it would help enough.

The clicking noise refered to is definatly from a loose or broken bracket not hinge.

The noise I'm hearing appears to be the door latch releasing when i open the door from the inside. It is not the normal release that i feel, but it happens only on occasion. The door release is not a smooth normal release, rather a snapping or dull click to the release of the locking mechanism. Almost as if the door was realigned improperly and needs to be realigned. It is not a huge problem, just a annoyance that comes and goes.

There are 2 or3 bolts at the top of the door ,just below the windshield, that come loose over time and can also cause a clicking sound when openig/closing. They are hard to see but you can reach around and feel them.

I have the same problem on my LS430 2001 model. I've spoken to the dealer about this, but the clicking or snaping noise, heard only when the driver side door is opened from the inside, is very intermittent or occuring randomly. The dealer won't adjust anything unless they can pin point the problem. When observing the door alignment and the chrome strip along the base of the window, it is off ever so slightly and doesn't align with the rear chrome strip - as if the door is not closing completely. I am wondering if something has shifted or moved with the door. This is the first I've heard of this problem on the forum. Perhaps others have noticed this problem as well?

The spinning of the buffer isn't what you're looking for, you're looking for the orbital action. The buffer itself doesn't even spin, the pad spins just as a side effect of the orbital motion.

Thanks SW for setting me straight with the buffer, I appreciate it. One quick question regarding layering a wax coat. Is it better to apply only one coat of wax periodically, say every 3 or 4 months, as opposed to applying 2 or 3 coats of wax at one time. Thanks again for the help.

It seems to me that my PC 7336 Buffer is not spinning fast enough with a 7.5" foam buffing pad attached. I find that the spinning slows as I increase the speed setting of the buffer. It appears that the number of revolutions comes to a complete stop as the increse of speed is advanced. At the #5 setting the rotation of the buffer is almost non-existant. Perhaps I am not familiar enough with this buffer to know what to expect of it. However, I am assuming the buffer will spin as a somewhat normal rate of speed along with the orbital pattern or action. Please correct me if I am wrong in assuming this buffer is not working correctly. Thanks for your help.

Ypu've got it. You don't want to keep the pad wet though, a spritz with water at first will get it ready but you don't want it wet. Apply only enough of the compound to do the job, and when you're done buffing out a section there should be little to no residue left. Now, what types of compounds and what types of polishes are your planning on using

Thanks for your response SW. As for Polishes I'm using, I have Meguiar's Step 2 Polish, Mother's Power Polish and some older Dupont #7 that are all available. Whether or not I should be using them is another matter. I have purchased the S100 paste wax and have some Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnuba PW as well.

I am now finishing the bumpers and find the Back to Black is a bit tricky to use. The directions say to buff out after drying. The Mother's forum says to add a protectant over the BB as it will run with wet weather. I've also ordered the 303 and the Poorboy's Natural look for the dash. I can't beging to tell you the hours I've spent on this car.

Oh, one other thing...........the tires I'd prefer, not a wet look, but a natural look; what do u suggest for a good trie dressing? Thanks a million for your help.

Well, really modern compounds and polishes that can be used with a PC can all be removed dry. if you're using them properly there won't be much of anything left on the paint surface to wipe up anyways. The point of the 50/50 water/alc. mixture is to remove any fillers the polishes might have left behind making sure that the marring has been totally removed, and making sure that you can bond crosslinking polymer sealants to the paint afterward. If those things aren't really a consideration than I wouldn't bother.

Thanks for replying to my previous message. Let me clarify what you're saying because things do have a way of being misinterperted.

1.To remove scratches spin the compound with an orange, foam cutting pad, keep the pad lubricated using water At this point there should be no buffing compound left to wipe off the painted surface. Proceed with using a polishing compound to remove any swirl marks or haze.

2. Polish the surface to remove hazing and swirls using a white foam pad to bring back the luster and shine.

3. Apply the wax using the PC buffer and a black, foam finishing pad. Remove the dried wax using the PC buffer and a clean, foam, black finishing pad. Whether applying synthetic sealants or wax the black foam pad is an acceptable way to apply/remove either of these materials.

I am assuming that this is what you are saying that I should be doing and a good technique to use to achieve excellent results. Thanks in advance for any corrections and suggestions. I appreciate you comments and help.

Thank you gentlemen for you responses and advice, it is much appreciated - I certainly will invest some time and effort to obtaint the correct pads to use.

With regard to the pad, should I be applying the compound and then, once applied, remove it with a micro-fiber cloth using a 50/50 solution of water and alcohol: the same applies for the polishing compound? It, to me, is a bit unclear if the buffing compound is removed wet or dry? Additionally, with regard to the sealant, should i be applying and then using the PC and a fine buffing pad to remove it ? In the past, I have been applying the sealant by hand and then removing it with a micro-fiber cloth. Thanks again for your assistance and advice.

Thanks for the recommendation to have the bumper covers repaired by autobody shop. As for the buffing pad, it is the same pad that came with the PC - a 6" buffing pad, supposedly safe for all applications. Additionally, I have used the pad for both compounds (cleaning and polishing) while cleaning the pad with Dawn or Tide detergent between applications. The two compounds I have used so far are Meguires #1 Medium cleaner for scratches and Meguires #9 Swirl Remover and polish. I recently purchased MOTHER'S POWER POLISH for all Buffer TYPES. The product says that it removes Swirls & Scratches and is safe for Clear Coats. I found that when using the Meguiar's #1, I had to go back several times to get the scratches reduced or removed. Perahps if i had used the buffer at a higher spin rate it would have produced a better result - I used the #3 setting for the polisher. Thanks for your assistance.

The bondo material is not the proper material to repair the bumper covers, in fact you cannot repair covers that are deeply gouged, you'll be better off letting a bodyshop refinish them.

As for the PC, what compounds and pads are you using?

I have a black Lexus LS430 that needs a thorough cleaning both inside and out. I've been using a 7336 PC Buffer to polish the dark surface which showes every mark imaginable. I have clayed and used a scratch removing compound as part of the first 2 applications. As for polishing the surface, my question is: how fast do I regulate the speed of the buffer to achieve the best finish on the different compunds? Also, the plastic bumpers are in need of some major cleaning and gouge repair. I have a Bondo repair kit to fill the deeper scratches and am not sure if this is the appropriate material to use. Over all, the conditon of the vehicle is excellent, however it has never been totally and thoroughly detailed. Your response is appreciated......thank you.

I have had my 2001 LS430 for approx. 6 mts. now and find that the seats are relatively hard when sitting in them for extended periods of time ( 2+ hours or more. ) This is my first experience with leather seats and I find them not as comfortable as cloth. Is there something that Lexus can do to make them more comfortable to sit in, the vehicle is approaching 50K miles. Thanks for suggestions and/or work arounds.

Regards,

joelsin

I need some advice on how to find a dealership that is willing to take this LS430 and give it one last final inspection before the warrantee runs out. Also, to make any upgrades or adjustments from service bulletins that I may not be savy to or aware of. My thinking is that most dealerships won't go looking for problems with a ready to expire warranteed vehicle. I would hate to let the warrantee expire only to have a problem with somthing that I failed to discover. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I believe most of them take 9 quarts, I would purchase one or 2 extra quarts, so you have some extra <_< You're taking it to a shop to have it flushed?

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Yes, I think I will have Lexus do the flush if they have the machine to do it. Last time I checked they only did drain and fills. Also, I was planning on using Amsoil in the tranny and wondered if that would be a mistake to do. Any thoughts on the Amsoil for the engine and tranny? Thanks for your comments. ............joelsin

I would like to do a transmission flush and would like to know how much Trans Fluid to purchase for a complete purge and refill. Does anyone have this information?

Thanks in adavance.

Regards,

joe

The manual, under (Theft Deterrent - pg 173) says that if the battery was disconnected it would be necessary to " check that the memorized data has been retained. If it has been erased, input it into the computer once more." I feel that, perhaps, the dealer did not realize this and installed the booster to get the door locks and trunk lock to work with the key. I'm only guessing, but having a balck box on my window irratates me to no end. I feel the dealer should have discussed this issue with me before installing additional electornics to the vehicle. Perhaps I should find a new dealer as the warrantee is still in effect. Any thoughts on your end?

Thanks,

joelsin

I just purchased an LS430 2001 that came with only one key. So I purchased a new key from Lexus and had it programmed. The dealer had difficult programming the key so he installed a small black box on the inner windshield which connects to the instrument cluster that houses the lighting and garage door buttons. I was given no explination why the key could not be programmed using the conventional method. My question to the forum is: is this an acceptable method for using this programable key to open the doors and trunk? Would I be better off returning the vehicle to the dealer and have him correct the problem without the use of the black box attached to the windshield?

Regards,

Joelsin

I would like to know what the experience has been for timing belt changes with the 2001 LS 430 series. Also, what is the recommended mileage for 1. Timing Belt 2. Trans Oil

3. Engine Oil change intervals ? Thanks in advance.....appreciate all replys.