shicks

With this routine also program the chip in the key to start the car? Seems like a dumb question I know. Also the power lock does not work in the car I am programming the key for. Should that be an issue? We just need a spare key.

Thanks,

Steve

I just had the timing belt replaced at a local toyota dealer. About 50 miles later, check engine light came on and lights wend dim and car stalled.

Now the dealer is saying the alternator is dead.

Does the alternator need to be removed for timing belt replacement? Could this have caused the problem.

Thanks,

Steve

Ok, so I guess I will take it to Toyota, I want it done right, and I don't know of a good indy shop in Northern CT.

Steve

I have a 98 ES300 with 90k miles. I have been calling around for prices. Lexus dealer $800 Toyota dealer $600. I assume I can use a toyota dealer to service an ES300, since it is basically a camry?

Do these prices sound right to replace timing belt and waterpump and coolant?

Thanks,

Steve

Integration relay? What is it? I think it is under the dash where the fuses are, but not sure what I am looking for. The auto locks will ulock the doors, but will not lock them. I had it diagnosed and the dealer says that it is the Integration relay. I'd like to just replace it myself. 1998 ES300

Thanks,

Steve

Ohhh...making me nevous. I have done this several times to other cars, never had that problem. Is this location hard to reach? This is my Moms car, she is out of state, so I'll see this area for the first time.

One other question not related. When should the timing belts and spark plugs be changed? She has 90k on the clock.

Thanks,

Steve

Ok, I'm going to change the O2 sensor this weekend.  Its Bank1 Sensor1.  This is the sensor closest to the firewall, correct? Do I need any special tools or instructions for the replacement?

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No special tools if you bought genuine Toyota (Denso) sensors because they are designed to look and fit exactly like the factory originals, although it can sometimes be a bit difficult to figure out how to loosen the electrical connector on the sensor. Spray the sensor mounting bolt with a penetrating lube as it is likely to be corroded and use a six point socket when removing it. In extreme cases of corrosion the mounting bolt may need to be sawed off.

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Ok, I'm going to change the O2 sensor this weekend. Its Bank1 Sensor1. This is the sensor closest to the firewall, correct?

Do I need any special tools or instructions for the replacement?

Thanks,

Steve

Well, after all that she does not have a code, but a recipt that says "Oxygen Sensor Front Federal 1B". She does not live close by, but if I can save her $200 with a DIY I will, she may have an autozone for Advanced Auto I can take the car, to get the code.

Steve

Tanks everyone. The shop my Mom brought it to, must have read the code, which they are charging $40 for :-( They indicated a bad O2 senser. I have asked her to get the diagnosis, so I can replace the part next time I see her. I guess I am not sure if there is a seperate code for each sensor? If there is, when I get it, I'll look it up or post it on this thread.

Thanks,

Steve

1) Read the code / test the sensors by hand with a voltmeter.

2) NAPA is as overpriced on most of their parts as the OEMs are. Don't use them.

3) Replacing them is easy enough

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Thank you for the links, this helps a lot.

Yes, she says the engine light is on, as far as MPG, I have no clue. I called NAPA and the have the one in the engine bay in stock for $105. I don't think she has an autozone near her. I may just buy one of each, and just eliminate which one is bad.

Steve

Is the DTC (engine light on)? Are you having poor MPG?

I would go to autozone and have them hook up there scanner to the car. They do it for free.

My car has almost 90K miles and my scanner (snap-on) states that are fine.

The sensors are like $180 each for OEM and after market are much less.

The two in the engine bay are easy to so and the one by the cat, I have no clue.

This might help.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...n++sensor++test

or

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=24238&hl=

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...n++sensor++test

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Thanks,

I did do a quick search, did not find what I was looking for. The car has about 80k miles. I am actually researching this for my Mom. She is about to get ripped off at a local tire shop. I assume it is a pretty easy DIY, but don't want to guess at which one is dead. Is is ok if she drives the car?

Steve

1998 ES300.  Has 2 sensors, how do I tell which one is bad without bringing it to a service center?

Thanks,

Steve

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You have three I think, not 2. There are 2 near engine and one after cat. I have a 98 and all are fine. You need to test them for volts and signal time.

I would test them since uless you are getting DTC or failed emmision, you should be fine; unless you have 500 million miles on the OEM ones.

Do a search on here since this came up about 2 months ago in this forum.

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1998 ES300. Has 2 sensors, how do I tell which one is bad without bringing it to a service center?

Thanks,

Steve

SK8I dont; think cleaning contacts is going to fix the locks ?

Since the key and the button do not work.

It is more likely a wiring problem.

you need to have someone look at it physically to trouble shoot it.

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Thanks for the reply.

I may not know what I am talking about, it's my moms car, just trying tohelp her out.

Should she be able to lock all doors from the outside without remote(she does not have one)?

Is there only one unlock button on the inside of the car?

Should rotors be replaced with pads? She prob has 80k on the car, she bought it used and does not know the service history. She was quoted $180 for the front and $180 for the rear pads.

Also, are struts a common part to be repalced at 80k? quoted $1000 tio replace all 4

quotes were not from lexus.

Thanks for any help.

Steve

Are you talking about the red 'BRAKE' light keep going on and off irregularly?  If so, you need to check the level of your brake fluid, or check the condition of the ABS sensor.  The 'BRAKE' light has nothing to do with your brake pads.

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Thank you, I had her check the brake fluid, she said it was at the MIN mark.

I hope it is safe to drive.

Steve

You may need to pull up under the master window switch assembly and lightly clean the master lock actuator with some contact cleaner, or a little of WD-40.

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Both doors dont work, nor does the key in the key hole lock the doors.

I wish I could fix it, rather annoying going to each door to lock them.

Steve

Hi I am a new member here. My Mom has a 98 ES300. I am trying to help her out by posting this.

She has a problem with her car that I cannot seem to figure out, so I will turn to the experts for advice.

She can unlock all the doors using the power lock button, but cannot lock all the doors using the power lock button. It just does nothing, not a sound or a click, seems to be same for both buttons and if you try the key on the outside.

Can anyone give me advice on how to trouble shoot this or if it has happened to anyone before. She does not have a remote entry button, it is missing.

Any thoghts would be great.

Thanks,

Steve

Does anybody know what this means. This is a 98 ES300. I don't drive the car, this is what my mom tells me. Is there a brake pad wear sensor? or maybe low brake fluid?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve