llebcire

It worked!

All done:

-Eric

Finally getting back to the hitch - big shout out to KODA4 from the other Lexus Club as it looks like I need a different bracket. There's a post there showing an alternate piece from Toyota/Lexus. Part #08925-35870 center support.

Looks like I need to track this part down!

-Eric

Here's some pics from today when I used the frame bolts without the mounting for the pintle:

Sounds as if you have the wrong hitch -- is the hitch from Lexus or an afermarket item? With a hole offset of only 1/2" - 3/4", adding another hole to the frame is likely to be too close to an existing hole.

Hitch came from her parents 2006 GX470 before they traded it. Believe it was a factory installed option on that vehicle so the hitch is OEM.

-Eric

Install failed - I couldn't get the bolts on both frame rails to align. When one was aligned the other was off by 1/2" - 3/4".

So - either my vehicle's frame is tweaked or something happened to the vehicle this hitch came from (was her parent's but purchased pre-owned). I didn't see any evidence the entire time I've been under my vehicle that the frame has been massaged back into place.

I was able to get the bolt installed and will leave in place (with nut & lock washer) until I find another hitch.

-Eric

Here's another idea. There appears to be a hole on the frame channel side above the two hitch mounting holes. If you can open up the diameter of this hole large enough for a 12mm bolt head to fit through, you can fish a bolt down through the mounting hole.. The bolt threads will extend through the mounting hole, and you can use a nut on the outside. Fishing the bolt through the hole isn't that difficult. Get some fine gauge steel wire and feed it through the top hole and then through the bottom hole. Place a star washer on the bolt to help keep it from spinning. Then tightly wrap the wire around the bolt threads. You should be able to pull on the wire and the bolt will go through the upper hole and come down through the mounting hole. Put a small o-ring around the bolt so it doesn't accidentally pop back into the frame channel before you get the nut on it. Make sure the bolt is a grade 8 so you don't have to do this again. You might want to try fishing the broken nut out with a small magnet attached to the wire so it doesn't rattle.

That's so weird - I had this revelation yesterday and was on my way to get the bolt when your post came through. I'm planning on the fishing line, leaving the old bolt in and cutting the new one to length after secured. I will also rust proof everything so it won't stand out.

Hoping to access through existing opening on outside of frame rail where body is mounted to frame.

Thanks!

-Eric

Grade 8 1/2"

I think your best option is to try using the original nut. Try to center it over the hole using a fish wire through the other hole. If you can capture a 1/4 turn of threads, you should be able to pull down on the bolt and the nut will seat in the broken weld nibs. You might be able to catch it with bent metal rod through the adjacent hole and keep it from spinning. As long as you keep some pull tension on the bolt, the nut should stay in place while you turn the bolt. Use a wire brush and some WD40 to clean up the bolt threads so it will spin into the nut easily. The J-bolt is a specialty snowplow bolt Meyer P/N 14595 available from www.storkauto.com for $21 (not cheap!). It's a grade 8 3/4" SAE thread, so you'll need a matchin grade 8 nut to go with it. The hole will need to be opened up in an elongated manner, rather than just drilling a large diameter hole. The j-bolt will take much more installation effort than the original nut. Be patient and nimble. Once it's done, you won't need to worry about messing with it again.

Thanks!

I was considering this approach as there is an access point on the other side of the frame (toward the top - not close to where the bolt needs to go) where I could insert a new nut - the original is now somewhere inside the frame with the remainder of the original bolt still in it.

Think it'll be a pain to get done but as you mentioned this will be the only time I need to fight with it.

-Eric

So this insert didn't work - just spun in the hole and as I found by messing with one it takes a tremendous amount of force to get this thing to crush.

Looks like I have a couple of options:

J-bolt - can't find anything in the way of specs

Having a body shop weld a stud into the frame

Create an "access hole" above the opening so I can get a nut into the frame - thinking 3/4" x 1.25" - don't know if it would affect the structural stability of the frame but I can't imagine it would.

-Eric

Let me know if pics don't work - using Picasa as Photobucket seems to be having issues.

xxstewart :

While I still think the insert would have worked in this applications, your hypothesis regarding the insert spinning in the frame was correct

Thanks for the idea on the snow plow insert and I will try an locate one - good news is that I'm in Iowa so things related to snow shouldn't be too hard to find!

-Eric

This type of blind fastener will hold the bolt in place in this application, but it is not designed for installation in thin wall steel. It's meant for installation in a blind hole -- that is, a hole in a solid material that has no opening at the bottom. This type of fastener works by expansion. The bolt expands the fastener's outside diameter, and in a blind hole causes it to grip the inside hole surface. In a thin wall installation, it will be difficult to prevent the fastener from spinning while the bolt is being turned. Also, bumper hitch bolts and nuts should be grade 8. Since this blind fastener is designed to expand, it is purposefully made from a soft grade steel. I think using this fastener is almost as effective as leaving the bolt uninstalled. A self-tapping bolt installed in thin wall steel will be similarly ineffective. I'd spend a bit more time and ensure the bolt and original nut are used. If this turns out to be impossible, you could try using a snowplow frame mount j-bolt, but you'll have to open up the hole diameter to install it.

Thanks for your response!

While I agree that this will not have the strength of the original fastener, I disagree that it would be equally effective as not using at all.

The strength difference between a grade 5 and grade 8 is approximately 30%, and while substantial in a one to one comparison, this is one of 8 12mm mounting points (plus 4 additional bolts) and when considering the load this one bolt will be subjected to that 30% difference would be further diminished.

Additionally, this hitch configuration is similar to other hitches that I've installed on full size trucks where the tow rating is 9,000 lbs+ (assuming the GX is limited by the chassis/braking not hitch) thereby further reducing the 30% difference.

As far as difficulty in tightening the bolt without spinning, this will be directly related to the opening I create. If the opening is too larger it will spin and won't work.

The suppliers that I worked with were aware of my specific application (tow hitch rated @ 6,500 lbs) and indicated this insert would satisfy those requirements.

-Eric

good job, what kind of store carried those....my bad, just saw your link...Thanks again for the solution to your problem

Couldn't find anything locally - had to get online and it wasn't easy as these are designed for high volume production line applications.

-Eric

Here's what I ended up getting in a 12mm configuration:

http://avkfasteners....php#pn_standard

-Eric

Thanks for the advice!

Someone on CL forums suggested removing the bolt and using a blind threaded insert - looks like they're available (hopefully locally) for high capacity needs such as this.

-Eric

Exhaust hanger did a great job giving me a hand.

Installing factory hitch and was removing the 17mm bolts by hand. One pictured (passenger side) snapped the nut loose that's welded into the frame (best guess) as it now just spins.

Looking for options/opinions:

The frame appears to be boxed on all sides so there isn't access spot - it feels like the back is closed off as well but I'd like to hear from someone who knows before I pull the bumper to look.

Is there an access hole that I'm missing so that I could wedge something between the frame and the nut so that I can remove it?

Do I need to have a body shop create an access hole, re-weld the nut, then close the access?

12 bolts in a 6500 lb hitch seems to be a bit of overkill - looks like the 6500 lb limitation is from the vehicle/brakes/etc. and not the hitch. Thoughts on running without this one bolt?

Thanks!

-Eric

Thanks for the diagram as I needed it too - exact same issue as EchoGold - storage compartment only opens about 80% and there's something stuck in the mechanism as it used to open fully.

How about a center console dis-assembly diagram?

-Eric

Hello!

Curious as to whether anyone has noticed in the owner's manual a maintenance interval based on driving habits?

I purchased my 2004 GX470 pre-owned, and while I have the owner's manual I don't have the maintenance section. On Lexus.com I was able to determine the suggested interval @ 5,000 miles, but typically Japanese vehicles have an interval (schedule) based on normal stop and go driving and a second interval based on highway driving that's typically 50-100% more for the oil change.

Thanks!

-Eric

I just did a Google image search and it appears that the OEM bulb is amber as the reflector is clear.

So...my DRL's are white and I prefer the look cosmetically - but I would assume they won't pass DOT regulations.

I didn't think anything of it initially as the few GX470's that I've come across in IA have white DRL's.

-Eric

Diesel,

If memory serves me correctly, on my 04 the daytime running lamp & turn signal are the same bulb (white).

The lamp is solid as the drl & flashes as the signal during the day, then @ night it doesn't illuminate unless acting as the flasher.

I've noticed the same color in other GX470s locally so I would think the white bulb is oem & legal.

Thanks!

-Eric

I keep seeing that others are using the amber bulb - was this the OEM?

I have clear in both sides so my DRL are the pale green tint of the reflector.

-Eric

So the book indicated I needed the 4157 as well:

In actuality I needed the 1141 for the DRL/turn signal:

Driver's side took me about 15 minutes - 5/bulb & 10 r&r plastic trim over radiator support.

I initially purchased the 4157 and was having a tough time finding the socket - even pulled the battery. Once I realized where the receptacle was it wasn't bad - can't see it without a mirror or pulling the battery.

2004 GX470.

Thanks!

Thanks Paul!

As a retired custom audio installer, I appreciate and would prefer to maintain the simplicity of keeping the system stock - the main reason I am interested in repairing the surrounds on the 6x9's.

You mentioned "your shop" as in yours or one that you use?

I'm curious as to the factory subwoofer in the GX470 with Levinson - location and size?

Thinking I may order the surround for it as well as the LS seems to have issues.

-Eric

It took me about 15 minutes to disconnect the driver's speaker, but before I did I managed to determine the surround has failed where the trim ring meets the frame - difficult to see but I assume the passenger side is the same.

I'm thinking of trying the silicone method instead of replacing.

-Eric

Hello!

As a new owner of a 2004 GX470 with the Mark Levinson, I've learned that the factory speakers don't seem to fare very well with heavy bass. I lost the passenger door a week ago and the driver's door this morning. Was listening to bass heavy music but by no means over driving the system.

When I disconnected the passenger speaker on Wednesday, I didn't see any obvious damage and it has a rattle when playing - sounds like the voice coil is separating from the driver. Cone, spider and surround are all intact and the coil doesn't feel like it's rubbing in the magnet - seems as though the original adhesive failed.

I've priced OEM replacements ($150/ea.) and found shops that could repair ($40/ea.) but I'm thinking of replacing with a different driver.

Couple of questions:

Anyone have a link to an overview of the audio system? I seem to find them for the LS and IS - not the GX.

I can't seem to find the specs for the drivers - speculation is anywhere from 4 - 8 ohms, with 8 ohms being the consensus.

From my initial research it looks like I'll need an 8 ohm replacement driver which is difficult as most of the automotive applications are 4 ohm. I did see the Cadence driver but it's rated as a mid-range driver with a low end of 150hz - we already have a mid-range driver in the door with the 6x9. I'm okay with a full ranger (2-3 way) .

If the system has a dedicated subwoofer, installing a 6.5" woofer with a baffle may be another option.

Thanks!!

-Eric

2004 GX470, 64k miles

3rd Owner

Purchased from in-laws (2nd owners)

Owned - 3 weeks

2 concerns:

1) Nasty buzz/rattle in passenger front door with bass notes (Levinson audio) - either something loose or blown speaker (afraid bad speaker). Will tear into door soon to determine.

2) Paint concerns. Vehicle is Black Onyx and showing signs of failure (small areas of cracking/checking, size of quarter or less). Initially found on hood which can be related to engine heat, have also found on side panels (original paint). May contact Lexus for resolution.

Future upgrades: HID, possible iPod interface (although I prefer Android so "AUX" interface), may consider wheels down the road.

Thanks!

-Eric

Thanks Paul!

Put 700 miles on it for a trip to/from Missouri Monday & Tuesday - very comfortable for long hauls and really enjoyed the adjustable suspension. The 2-lane highways in Missouri are VERY curvy with absolutely no shoulder - after putting it in sport I felt much more in control and still enjoyed a nice ride.

Slowly getting it cleaned up as well.

-Eric

Just wanted to introduce myself to the forums!

Picked up a clean low mileage GX470 last week - loving it!

2004 GX470

Black Onyx

Dark Gray Leather

Golden Birds-Eye Maple

Navigation System/Mark Levinson® Audio System

Third-row seat with rear air conditioning

Aftermarket roof mounted DVD entertainment

Rear Spoiler

63,391 miles

Quite a step-up from what I was driving (Pontiac Vibe) - downfall is that our Vibe had a rougher ride and enough road noise to put our 5 month old daughter to sleep in a hurry - not so much in the GX - too quiet and smooth!

-Eric