shadowsowner

SO, with all due respect, those links are making it to complicated. I have done a number of them and actually did the 1st 4 on my DIL's RX before anyone else was doing them, or at least writing about it. I did those in a very "factory like fashion". I have since changed my approach, because, though it looked very factory, was too much work. I will post a link from this thread where I did one for a fellow who lives close to me. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41219&st=90 Look at post# 93 &96 where I explained what I did and then the owner posted the pictures of what I did. Just click on the thumbnails. That install is not bad at all and turns out quite neat. The difference in an install I would do now is to use an automotive electrical eyelet on the end that goes on the stub shaft on the end of the cable, then run the rod through the 2 holes drilled in the plastic handle housing and bend the "Z" (2-90 degree bends) in the end of the rod AFTER it has been passed through the 2 holes. That "Z" will slip into rubber hole in the end of the actuator. I also have obtained small round push on clips from Ace Hardware since then to keep the eyelet on the stub shaft. This procedure is actually about the simplest way to do it and I believe now that I have the extra needed pieces (that I didn't have then) I could probably do the installation in about 45 min., not counting removing and replacing the door panel. I will be gone (after tomorrow) for a few days, but would be glad to give any help I could. PLEASE DO NOT cut, alter, remove, disable or in ANY way mess with the existing factory actuator set-up! The pictures on post # 96 tell the story!

Code 58 - thanks! I was looking for an easier way to attach the new actuator rod from the new aftermarket actuator to the pin on the door lock. I will try the method you described using an eyelet cable and the round push on clips. Hopefully it is something I will get to work on this month and will post pictures!

Code 58 - yours is a great reply and there is no question that it can be a disaster when two or more people discuss a solution but don't realize they are each speaking about different things so I'll try to be more specific.

I was talking about using one of the aftermarket actuators such as this one:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DLA-1/DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/-/1.html

I was planning on using a piggyback approach and leaving the original actuator in place as has been described since this part obviously has many other integral functions besides door locking and unlocking.

In the piggyback approach there have been two described solutions - one involves connecting the new aftermarket actuator to the mechanism on the original actuator that opens and shuts the lock by moving the cable. A second approach later in the thread involves leaving everything in the original actuator/door lock untouched and just attaching the new OEM actuator directly to the door lock to open and close the door lock directly.

In writing this out I've seen the flaw in my proposial to cut the cable form the original door actuator and attach it to the aftermarket actuator. Although this would allow the aftermarket actuator to open and close the door the orignial part would no longer be able to "sense" the door lock position and tell whenter it was open or closed which would likely mess up the alarm and other things.

I'm wondering whether there weould be a way to piggyback a new cable or actuator rod directly from the newly installed aftermarket door actuator to the existing cable? This would obviate the need to drill holes or solve what seems to be an awkward mechanical problem of attaching the actuator rod from the aftermarket door opener to either the original actuator or the door lock itself.

In hoping to give back something to this forum I've searched around the internet on bicycle cable part sites and actuator cable part sites to try and find a way to attach a second cable or rod to the originally installed actuator cable. I've found one really helpful DIY and a second part I would like to share for group feedback.

The first is a terrific DIY from a celica website - the pictures are terrific for understanding what is going on with this type of repair in general and they show one method of splicing the cables together though the author states this is one of the harder parts of the repair

See it here:

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=304677

The second is a "kit" which is sold to attach the actuator rod from the New aftermarket actuator you install and allow it to attach directly to the old cable without splicing it in -

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wtFr68A9k5y/p_514DLCABLE/Crime-Guard-DL-CABLE.html

The kit obviously has a few other parts you wouldn't use but I am wondering if there is a better specialty machine part which could be used to attach either the new aftermarket actuator directly to the old actuator cable or to attach a rod or cable from the new aftermarket actuator to the old actuaror cable? I've attached a picture at the bottom from the celica DIY which shows the aftermarket actuator and rod clamped to the cable.

My apologies if any of this is unclear - prior to this my most complex car repair has been replacing burnt out headlights but I am pretty good with repairs to electronics and large and small appliances.

Thanks again to everyone on this forum.

What an incredible thread and source of information - I have to fix a rear door lock and have found this really helpful.

I have a simple question - would it be possible to mount a new actuator and cut the cable from the old actuator and then just attach it to the new actuator? This would seem to be the simplest approach if it would work.

Many thanks for any responses.

Additionally, if there is anyone in the greater Philadelphia area (I live near King of Prussia/Devon) who is willing to do this repair for me I'd be happy to pay you for your time. Feel free to send me a PM.

Thanks