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Jackster

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Posts posted by Jackster

  1. Yes the head unit is very nice although I will be replacing it with a double din touch screen one like I had in my Volvo. I pulled off my door panels a few days ago to do some work on them and I was a bit let down to see that the speakers where Pioneer, I'm a Kenwood fan but you can't have it all.

  2. Well here's the gig. I've replaced the ECU for the mirrors and it cured the problem instantly. Got the part from "ALIGA" and installed it immediately. Was not able to pictures, my SLR wouldn't fit into the spaces with my head behind it. They didn't make an awful lot of room in there for sure. But - I do know how to tear it apart MINIMALLY so that there is not a huge production to install it. it will take some time, and a lot of patience. The culprit is the top 10mm bolt (that is also slotted for a phillips) - the bottom bolt was a breeze. I had to use a 10mm open wrench with a closed end ratchet on the the other end. They have these at Sears, my wife got me a set for Xmas years ago. Glad she did. The ratchet end swivels, and that's the important part. To keep the wrench on the bolt, I came in from the front with a 3/8" socket extension so that one end was applying pressure on the wrench and the other end was in my only free hand.

    I do not recommend this fix for anyone with lower back problems, it's rough on the body.

    Basically, you remove the black plastic panel under the dash and unplug the led light and twist out the diagnostics plug. Then remove the lower dash trim panel and disconnect the connections for the trunk & gas filler door. Also twist out the ignition trim ring. Next remove the metal plate behind this trim panel. Remove the sensor (or is it an ionizer for the "fresh air" thing) from the metal panel. Remove the air duct leading from the center by the radio over to the left kick panel area. (more room to work, and easy to do) You will see one screw holding the duct on at the left side. Crawl under the dash and remove the first bolt holding the ECU. The top bolt is a bugger, you'll need to get your hand up there and place a closed end on it....then come in from the front with a long socket extension to apply pressure to keep the wrench on the bolt while you break it - there's very little room for leverage so don't waste time with a phillips driver, you'll be there for hours and will wind up with a stripped head and sore hands. I saw that coming when I tried it.

    There's the fix - and man what a difference. Now when hillbilly's come up behind me with their Earthmover 4500's and their headlights in my rear mirrors, or the occasional hi-beamer - I can adjust them up to prevent going blind. Anyone ever attempts this feel free to look me up and ask....I can help guide you through it.

    Best regards ---

    Holy crap, I have been looking for this for almost a year now, I can't believe I never found it. I finally got my part in thanks to your instructions. You rock!

  3. Selling my 1995 Lexus SC300. I have a Blazer now and, although I hate to part with it, I no longer need nor have time for this car. It has 168k miles and has less than 500 of those from me as it was my "sports car". The car is in very good shape and runs like a charm!. It has the same Non Turbo 2JZ engine found in a Toyota Supra (which was twin turbo) and it shows, this car is fast! If you want to check it out please give me a call at (PM FOR NUMBER). Possible trade for 2004+ vehicle. Trades please email, buyers please call. Pictures up here:

    http://appleton.craigslist.org/cto/2576650301.html

  4. This may sound like a stupid question but we all have to learn somehow and I've never dealt with this area of the car. My radiator overflow reservoir (at least that's what I think it is) is always empty, however I noticed that it has a Full line so I put in some coolant but now it is gone and the reservoir is empty (although not completely dry) again. Do I have a leak? Is this normal? Should I take it into the shop? The car, a 95 SC300, doesn't overheat at all and gauges normal temps.

  5. I was wondering if anyone knew how to install/replace the mirror ECU that tends to go bad in these cars (95 SC300). I have the new one, plugged it up and it worked but I'm having the damnedest time getting the old one out. I have taken the dash apart as far as I know how I can get to the bottom screw but there is another one up top that I just can't get to no matter what I do. Any suggestions? If you know of any dash diagrams that would help too.

    Thanks so much guys.

  6. My passenger seat seems to have some problems. It has power, all the cables are connected and the seat back goes up and down and the left side rail goes back and forth but the right side rail "seems" to move only about an inch and then the seat starts to go sideways. I plan on taking it out tomorrow because I found some info on how to fix a power seat in a much more recent Toyota but I was wondering what your guys thoughts were on this problem. I have searched everywhere and I seem to be the only one it is happening to.

    Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

  7. As the topic says, I am brand new here. I also just got a 95 Lexus SC300, my dream car ever since BCT (Military Police Reservist, yes boo :P). I finally found one and couldn't pass it up. I live in Wisconsin, my other car is a Volvo S40. The car is basically in mint condition other than a few scratches, it just needs some simple work such as replacing the mirror ecu, bulbs (did that today, took forever), antenna, and passenger seat sticks on the right side. After all that is done I'm going to reupholster the interior to match the dark brown and tan of the dash. I don't wanna touch the exterior other than rims because it is such a beautiful design already.

    Anyway that's me, if there are any other Lexus drivers in Wisconsin give a shout, this state sucks.

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