IronWorker

97' mileage - 28K in 2001 - ~ 21k near new condition

01' mileage - 81k in 2008 - ~12.5K excellent condition

still have both.

Update:

Thanks for all of the input from everyone.

I tried the simplest thing first - Got some Denso Iridium plugs (pre-gapped) and put them in, without using the anti-seize compound, and not too tight this time.

Took it out for a test drive and the deep sound is gone when accelerating hard. It seems to have the normal good level of power as before.

Thanks again. :)

Were they gapped properly? Although they are supposed to come gapped from the factory it is a good idea to make sure they are properly gapped before install.

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Yes, I checked the gaps and made a minor adjustment on a couple - shouldn't be an issue.

Changed the plugs and it runs/fires well except when accelerating hard - it makes a deep throaty sound that it did not do before. Seems to not accelerate quite as well as before also.

The only thing I did differently this time was coat the threads with anti-seizing material (careful not to get any on prongs where the plug fires) and I tightened them a bit more, because when I was removing the old ones, they where just a bit loose and not as snug as when I put them in a couple years ago. The plugs say 19 ft. lbs to tighten, so I probably have gone over this.

Should I loosen them up a bit? or do something else?

What was the error code?

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This is the type of dealer that wouldn't be interested in providing that type of info - since they know what I was looking to do (fix it myself). It was difficult enough trying to get the correct the name of the part in question. They also don't tell you if the part is under warranty as I have learned from the past. But thanks for the direction. :)

or, if you don't want to lose your radio presets and stuff,

pull the ECU fuse.

steviej

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I have the manual, so I'll look for that fuse for next time. Thanks for the tip :)

then take off the battery tterminals

it takes 3 system runs of driving the car not just turning the key to rest the light.

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This worked, thanks alot. :)

Replaced the MAF sensor (97 ES) as per the dealer notice on the cause of the engine light being on (no cracks or holes seen in the pipe or intake areas). Restarted to the engine 3 times to reset, but it did not. The engine light is still on. Any ideas?

Yes, I found it cleaned it, restarted car 3-4 times to try and reset warning light. Still on. I was looking for the tutorial section for general info and future reference, I have a haynes manual. Would anyone care to point me to the tutorial section. Thanks

Also, I was looking for the tutorial section to see if there was anything on it. Can someone point me to that section, I don't see it. Thanks

Nice work and instructions. Mine are starting to show early signs of hazing and this will come in handy in the future.

Thanks, will do.

UPDATE:

Took car back to dealer to verify the part - It is the MAF. They wanted $400 to replace. I have located a part for much less, but not sure if it is necessary.

Should I just disassemble (using Haynes manual) give it a good cleaning and put back. I so, what to clean with?

AusJapan -

I used to live in Japan (Ishikawa) and looked at the Lexus' when I was there. Yours is a "Windom" no? I think they came with a 2500CC engine?

Why do you need to change your maf?

They are pretty much indestrucable and sometimes need to be cleaned only,or their is a rip in the intake tube forma broken engine mount

This is what the dealer said was causing the engine light to be activated.

***Edit*** Skip to post #5 for update

Dealer says "intake meter" needs to be replaced. I'm assuming its the air intake meter. I've done a thread search and have checked on the sponsors links for this part. Does it go by another name?

Thanks in advance.