DariusLXS

I stumbled into this thread when I was searching online:

Tools Needed:

1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver

2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner)

3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws)

4) Small brush for cleaning

5) Towels for cleaning

6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses)

7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness.

* I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found.

This is most useful, with your permission I would like to jot the materials / tools needed. This will be most useful to me. Thanks.

Also, thank you for this additional info. I would like to take note.

- The small washer around the pencil size metal stud.Is it wavy? This one was , or is now...

- The idle RPM , what it should be ? At P & D positions.Engine warm. As the owner tried to raise the RPMs by tightening the throttle cable. It did help , but now it was idling way too high.And where is the idle screw ? If there is one...

- How much cleaning is required ? I cleaned allmost everything I could. The rotating piece (?) that comes off , and has these moving flaps , etc etc how much can you clean ? How much MUST you clean ? I managed to use the carbspray as a solvent , so most off the sh.. did come out.Some still remains. Should I worry ?What is the purpose of this "valve" thing? Does it suffer , from this "solvent cleaning abuse" ? It was stuck , when I opened it.Now it moves really freely.

A warning , the screws ARE TIGHT !!! Do not attempt with the wrong size screwdrivers !!!

The instructions are clear , and even I managed to do it ! And the result was impressive.... atleast I am happy myself !!!

I would like to relay this to a friend's twitter.

Plus, the step by step instructions are very well crafted. This is a great find.

1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you.

Attached Image: original_2.JPG

2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed.

Attached Image: intake_hoses_only.JPG

3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side.

Attached Image: intake_hoses_removed.JPG

4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps.

Attached Image: throttle_body_revealed2.JPG

5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after.

Attached Image: sensor_removed2.JPG

6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done.

Attached Image: throttle_body_connected2.JPG

7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws.

Attached Image: bottom_view_iacv.JPG

Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside

Attached Image: iacv_removed.JPG

Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body

This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning

Attached Image: post_throttle_body_cleaning.JPG

Attached Image: iacv_upclose.JPG

Attached Image: iacv_post_cleaning.JPG

8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level.

After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated)

I would like to thank everyone again.

Hello, I own a Lexus ES300 and I came upon this site by searching for topics and issues related to the idle control motors of Lexus and their configurations that are highly similar to that of Toyota.

I am interested in this topic / thread:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30723

I would like to jot down some infos on the thread.