sparkybuoy

Not all Camry parts are ES parts and vice versa - best bet if you're trying to be too cheap is to get a used actuator - try 800-765-7100 or log onto car-part.com

Original plugs in that car were either Nippondenso (Denso) or NGK Platinum plugs that were rated at 60k miles - you can upgrade to Iridium and go 100k miles on those - Kragen and NAPA sell the NGK Iridiums for like $7 each - If the vehicle isn't misfiring and it isn't being caused by a wire...leave them alone...the factory Sumitomo wires last almost forever - don't ever change the cap and rotor either unless it's actually causing a problem - one last thing...there's no need and no recommendation to change the factory Nippondenso fuel filter...ever! It's designed not to plug up.

Also keep in mind that the ES is a glorified Camry so if you're going to buy GENUINE...you'll pay less at a Toyota dealer versus the same part at a Lexus Dealer

hi,

What kind of brake pads you can recommend to replace old?

From what web site to buy it?

I have 60k mi on my es330 and above 2mm on pads.

I don't want to wait for 1.6mm and want to replace all pads at once.

Should I look at OEM only? Or there are newer, better pads?

tnx

hi,

What kind of brake pads you can recommend to replace old?

From what web site to buy it?

I have 60k mi on my es330 and above 2mm on pads.

I don't want to wait for 1.6mm and want to replace all pads at once.

Should I look at OEM only? Or there are newer, better pads?

tnx

You're going to want to stay with GENUINE pads if you want the utmost in quality - the only thing that even comes close are United Linings available from NAPA auto parts - by the way...if you're planning on just installing pads and not resurfacing rotors then count on the brakes not "biting" like they should also be ready for noise no matter what brand of pad you use.

More than likely you're needing to readapt idle strategy. You'll need to hold the throttle open until it warms up. After it warms up you'll need to shift into gear and and back into park several times - also turn the A/C on and off several times and take notice as to whether or not the idle control device is attempting to compensate for load. If it doesn't then you'll need to take a digital multimeter and make sure you have continuity between the terminals of that connector and the appropriate connector of the ECM (behind the glove box) if all relative wires have continuity then you'll need to try another ECM...if they don't then you'll need to find the wire(s) that are broken and that could have happened when valve cover gaskets were done or maybe the motor was replaced once? Regardless...

I have a 93 es300 that will not idle when cold. I have meticulously cleaned the IAC valve and it operates smoothly. If the valve is inserted back onto the throttle body in the open position, the car idles immediately upon startup and will be fine until it is shut off again. The service manual states there should be a clicking noise upon shutoff from the IAC valve and I can hear this from a hose that I put on it and to my ear for clarity. When I pull the IAC valve off again, it is in the closed position. I got a replacement from a salvage yard, it came off of the old engine in the open position and that is how I installed it. The engine fired right up, but after shutting it off again, it failed to start without help from the accelerator. When I took it off, it was in the closed position. I haven't put battery power to the connector terminals to see the valve operate, but it seems too much of a coincident that the two act alike. I feel the engine is starving for air but I don't know how to diagnose it. I don't have money to throw at all the possibilities. When the temp gauge moves up, the car starts and idles fine. It's frustrating to only see iac cleaning advice and not much else for my situation. Hoses are mostly new and all seem good. No CEL. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Still to this day...most people don't understand gasoline and burn rates - your car is designed to run on 87 - if you run any higher rating than that you are throwing money away - for decades people have misunderstood how gasoline burns and what octane readings are and what they mean especially in relation to gasoline and its burn rate. If you put a fuel in that has a higher octane number/rating, not only are you wasting your money but the engine will have less power - you want the FASTEST burning fuel you can get away with not the slowest - my grandfather used to do the same thing for decades and I finally got around to telling him "Grandpa...this thing is designed to run on 87...why are you wasting money on "premium" ... so he finally realized after I explained what you see in this blog and he stopped doing that and started saving money - what happens is people get fixated on the word/term "premuim" and back in the old days...there was some merit to the "quality" and cleanliness of the fuel, plus most everything in the old days was high compression so higher octane fuels were necessary - but in modern day...the three grades are basically identical fuels with identical cleanliness (required by auto manufacturers and the feds) and then compounds are added to change the burn rate/octane rating.

the transmission codes are retrieved by jumpering DG and E1 with a paper clip in the diagnostic connector in the engine compartment - if you have a shift solenoid code the solenoids are mounted to the valve body under the trans pan

You can also use the keywords es300 wheels and es330 wheels on eBay and on Google use keywords es300 wheels craigslist and es330 wheels craigslist

I'm guessing you didn't purchase Toyota Extra Care or some kind of aftermarket warranty? You can do one of two things - you can have the tires and tire pressure sensors dismounted, take them to a powder coater and they'll bead blast the wheels and them professionally powder coat them OR look on car-part.com for used wheels in good to perfect shape

Basically the Toyota fluids are Dexron base stocks and then Toyota has their supplier blend their "specific" blend of friction modifiers - these friction modifiers are there to "soften" shifting causing a certain amount of slippage as the clutches engage - that's why transmissions that originally came with regular Dexron ATF shift "firmer" and that's the ONLY difference - fluids that are not regular Dexron fluids are going to cause clutches to wear faster as evidenced at the dealer level by the fluid interval checks and the drastic change in fluid color from the clutch material getting into the fluid. With earlier transmissions I've used Chevron MD-3 exclusively - it seems to have just the right amount of friction modifier to where between 30k flushes the fluid still "looks" good. You don't need to replace the filter - it's a fine mesh screen and doesn't plug up - simply "okie flush" thru the cooler hose that's the output hose into a 5 gallon bucket

i say the same too just get your abs sensor clean if you dont really have any problems stoping the sensor on your abs is dirty and need to be clean

Have either of you had either axle on either side replaced?

My experience with those has been one or more wires breaking inside the rubber accordion boot in the door jamb - you can substitute a ground to your master switch and see if everything starts working - of course take a 12v test light and make sure you have power to the switch and then reverse polarity on the test light and make sure both grounds to the master switch are there

is the fuel filter on my 96 es300 in the same place? cause it needs changing.

As for your 96...if it has the ORIGINAL filter on it...leave it alone...it was designed by Nippondenso not to plug up - I've seen thousands and thousands with 300 plus thousand miles still going strong with the original Denso filter - if you take a look at it and it has the Denso label on it with the Toyota part # on it...leave it alone...if it doesn't...get a factory filter on it then leave it alone for good - on yours it's located behind the battery down towards the transmission - follow the flexible hose from the intake to it.

As a long time Lexus AND Toyota Master Tech...I can tell you almost for sure that your problem is not the strainer in the tank - it MIGHT be the pump but still unlikely - does the engine turn over with the starter and just not start or does it no even turn over/crank?