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No, I'm not trying to defeat the purpose. I've used fog lights, in various forms, since the 1950's and I have a fine OEM set on my German W8 Variant. It's just that this is the first time I've seen lights which are aimed as low as these are.

Changed my '99 ES300 fog bulbs from OEM (which were suitable for romantic dinners) to PIAA XtremeWhites. The process was easy, but not at all as has been described on this forum (albeit for other years). 8 screws and bolts hold an underpan shield on each side; several pins held the back side of this shield, but removal was unnecessary. Free the shield from the metal body lip and pry it down and the back of the housing is exposed. The housing is held firmly by a long bolt (outer side) and a neoprene tang (inner side). Remove the 10mm nut from the bolt and depress the tang while pushing forward. The entire housing pops out the front of the bumper and you can open the case and change the bulb. Replacement is the reverse.

Oh, yes, the PIAAs make all the difference, even with fluted lenses on the housing. However, I feel that they still aim too low, spreading light under the front bumper like a Low Rider on meth. Since the long bolt and the neoprene tang must be exactly returned to their original position, I saw no way to upward adjust the aim of the lights. I could back slowly over a tree stump. But, this being New Year's Eve...........(fill in the resolution).

Sorry if this has been thrashed about before. The "foglights" on my '99 ES300 are absurd. I have to get out of the car and walk around front to see if they are on; they've been that way since new. While I will replace the bulbs with PIAAs, I think the real problem stems from the translucent, fluted lenses. I know the fluting dispurses the light. But, I've seen other ES300 fogs with clear lenses and wonder if, without replacing the reflectors, I can find some clear lenses to fit a '99 and solve the problem. I know Lexus thinks we all have more money than brains; I wonder if Camry/Avalon fogs from some year would fit. Thanks.

if you don't mind "How much they are asking for your extended

warranty ?"

Thanks

I'm sorry I didn't answer your question earlier. I haven't shopped around for a Lexus extended warranty. I expect it would be comparable to others; in the $1,400 range to bring it to a full 100K. I am getting it for my W8 because, even to change oxygen sensors the engine must be pulled.

Years ago I had a Mercedes S Class sedan. Every time I pulled into the service bay the service rep ran to the phone to call his broker. I carefully examined the owner's manual and concluded that if I followed that maintenance schedule with a Yugo I would still be driving it today. Still, I'mm a stickler for maintenance, and more often than not I replace things early.

Hello,

Every new car I bought I purchased an extended warranty. The advantage is when you buy you can negotiate the extended warranty price. I always end up paying 600-700 dollars(7 years-100,000). It's always good to know that if something happens, you have it and you don't worry about what's wrong with your car. In my Jetta they changed so many things before they found the actual problem. If I didn't have my warrany it would have costed me tons of money, but because I had my warranty it covered it with 50 dollar deductable. In the long run it is better because you never have to worry what could be wrong. How much they are asking for your extended warranty ?

Hope this helps.

Thanks all. I suspect it isn't worth it. I have an '03 Passat W8 I also bought new, and will get one for that; I've seen engine quotes of $18K - $30K just for a new W8 engine. Thanks again.

In April of '99 I bought a new '99 Coach edition ES300. I'm now at 60K, and past much of the warranty period. However, is an Extended Warranty available and, if so, is it worth it? I do most of my own maintenance, e.g. Mobil 1 5-30 synthetic every 5K since new. I will be changing plugs long before the 90K recommendation, etc. I've replaced the struts and flushed the cooling system. Not looking forward to the timing belt, etc. Thanks.

The filters go in the compartment that is up to the right of the gas pedal behind the compartment. SEARCH on "cabin filter" and you will find many threads in the past year discussing said topic including installation instructions.

Thanks, Steviej. I did check that area and it is empty.

If the O-ring is not causing a CEL then it is ok for now. Did you price a new gas cap from the dealership? Also try online parts distributors.

Here: Filler Cap only $13.24.

And, thanks for the lead on the gas cap.

steviej

I bought my 1999 ES300 Coach new in April '99. I've seen some literature suggesting that the O ring on the gas cap should be replaced at around 50K since it can trip the check engine light. My dealer charges obscene prices for everything, is inconvenient to get to, and just irks me even though this part can't cost much. I have various O rings among my parts/tools for general use. Just out of principle, were I to find one the right size, could it be used?

I've seen (and searched) posts on the cabin filter. I've looked at various manuals for the where and how. Yet, when I have searched for it in the car, all I find is an empty space where it may have/should have been and is now either gone or was never there.

By the way, this car came with all the Coach trimmings. But, I have since learned that other models got adjustable suspension. I did not even know it was available. And, I thought the Coach came fully dressed. I guess not. Marco

The discussion was certainly interesting. However, I feel it is largely irrelevant unless: 1. the cold air intake has a larger MAF; and, 2. a free flow exhaust has been installed to allow the increased intake to actually move into and through the engine.

hi,

can anyone recommend an online store where I can buy a magnetic drain plug for my '92 es 300.

Not altogether a bad idea. In fact, relatively harmless. But, remember that these work, to the extent that they do, mostly if not entirely on ferrous metals. The more common metal particles in oil would be copper, from bearings. If you have a noticeable build up on this plug, you have pretty serious problems.

I guess some people think I lie. Why would you do it on cars since 1958 if its not good? As for the muffler, I don't think that muffler would sound good on an ES 300. I have a Remus muffler on mine.

Not psychoautomotive(i like the word by the way).

Come now. No one, as far as I know, has said you lie. Even in 1958 airflow testing was available. It clearly showed that enhanced intake, albeit driven by speed pressure, is relatively ineffective without enhanced exhaust tuning. Smoke tests, as done in wind tunnels, show that unmodified exhausts cause the incoming air to compress and simply buffer further incoming air from entering until the system is cleared enough to accept it. Therefore, I always modified both ends in sync. I'm quite familiar with Remus, also owning a Passat W8 modified to 300hp/300ft.lbs torque over the 270/275 stock. To my knowledge, Remus is not stainless. And, it costs roughly 5 times more per unit than Edelbrock. Edelbrock is fully stainless, and packed with ceramic chips which never wear out. Remus, and even Brullen, are often considered "boutique" mufflers, more valued for their badge than for their performance. Of course, sound is subjective. I can say that Edelbrock does not drone at speed, and does not attract law enforcement.

[i have a 1997 ES 300. My way of doing it:

I've done this exact modification on several cars, beginning in 1958. K&N's were not available then, but washed and then machine oil soaked thin cotton worked well. Since K&N, essentially borrowed from us enthusiasts of the 1950's and '60's, I still find that this modification is not worth much without a corresponding modification, such as an Edelbrock Stainless/ceramic straight-thru muffler. Think of it this way; would putting a huge funnel into a hose make it flow any faster? Not really.

If you do have the improvement that you feel you do (perhaps partly psychoautomotive), imagine freeing up your exhaust to reap the full and actual benefits. Go to www.Edelbrock.com and review the RPM stainless straight thru's. They are packed with ceramic, harmonically split internally into an elongated doughnut shape, and will NEVER wear out or change tone. I've had 3 of them, sometimes on cars nearing 400hp. They aren't super loud and offensive like the sausage cans on so many "boy racers" in traffic.

I can;t remember i just look at tehm and usually remeber the ways .

It is only a ground

1 positive

and one switch wire

I am sure someon on the web shows the exact connections.

Thanks, SK. You did confirm my feeling that I had mistakenly tried to use all 4 relay connections when I should have used only 3. Will keep trying.

Sorry I couldn't provide more information. My '99 is a Coach edition which I bought new, and I was very surprised to find (after all this time) that it does not have adjustable suspension. I bought it for my wife, and she never mentioned that she felt it was lacking something. So, my comments are based on a pretty basic car and set up, albeit trimmed with perforated Coach leather, OZ wheels, and "black pearl" insignia.

Sorry about that.

SKperformance,Nov 1 2004, 08:48 PM]

Are you talking about the numbering on the relay?

Yes. Apparently all relays have the same number options: 30, 85, 86, and 1 other I can't recall now. What I was hoping for was a clear recommendation of, e.g. "battery + to 85; battery - to 30; pin 86 to compressor +.....etc" (These are just ideas; I don't have a good idea of which actually goes where.)

[Thanks very much. I'll (I'm on my work computer) try again. I've already found that connecting the wires incorrectly doesn't blow anything; the horns just don't work. From what I can see, the + from the battery goes to pin 85; the oem horn wire goes to pin 86; and ground goes to pin 87. Pin 30 is left empty.

I've tried installing Fiamm air horns, with the relay. Can't get them to work without blowing a fuse (in the car, not in me). If you did this mod, how did you do it? Can it be wired directly from the horn wire to the compressor and compressor to ground, without the relay? I've recently read Japanese cars require the hot wire to go to terminal 85 instead of 86 on the relay. Thanks.

chadmg7. I recently had 4 new struts put on my '99 ES300. I got the KYB Gas struts from www.TireRack.com for under $300. They shipped immediately, with no problem. I then had a garage install them - because the wheels have to be very carefully checked for alignment - for around $300.00 KYB struts are so superior to OEM you will wonder how it is you have been driving all this time in an overstuffed rocking chair. My other car, an '03 Passat W8 has sports suspension and 17" wheels; my Lexus is now fairly close to that level of performance. You will get no rocking/swaying, but a firm and comfortable ride. Tokico struts are just too hard, and cost more.

The sound you hear is possibly a worn strut tower or tower support. Although it is costly (and there is no way around it) I would recommend that when you access the TireRack site you also purchase the strut supports. It does sound like at least one of yours is shot.

Best of luck.

I've never heard or read that, and have owned and maintained many, many cars since 1958. Anyway, long before you are at risk of that, you should have a "check engine" light on your dash. The check engine function is mostly tied to the pollution control functions; even a faulty gas cap gasket will thro a light.

Thanks. I did that. And, I checked all the fuses. Nothing wrong that I can find. Had the battery tested; it's okay. had the alternator checked; it's okay. Seems like I'm running on my daytime lights at night, although the brights come on. A real mystery.

Okay. Last night I put in an Optima Red Top 34R 1050 with CCA800. Everything is fine, except that the headlights are noticeably dimmer. I've checked everything I could, and even ran the car and idled the car to charge it. Still dim. What's up?

Thanks to everyone for the info. I had never seen one of these bubble view batteries until I got the Lexus. And, I had never heard of Optima until this forum. Am ordering an Optima Red Top 34R today.

Thank you, Steviej! You are most helpful and are greatly appreciated. I also read your other posts, and find them quite informative.

And, a quick P.S. I would like to put Sylvania SilverStars in my fog lamps. But, I'm hesitant to use the Jaws of Life on the front of the car. How do I get at the fog lamp bulbs? Thanks.

Wondering if anyone can give me expectations on my battery. I'm in Atlanta, Ga; bought the car new in 4/99; have 52K on it; and the glow circle in the battery check viewer is still blue. Still, I've had other cars in which the new style of battery just goes with no warning. Would hate for my wife to find herself stranded, especially at a shopping center. Thanks.