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davispb

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Posts posted by davispb

  1. I had a similar problem on my '92 this spring. Hooked up an ammeter and started pulling fuses. After the first time through, (after pulling every fuse and no results) I realized that it had to be a non-switched feature that was causing the unnecessary load. I went through all of lights again and still got nothing. I then remembered that you can still roll up the window after removing the key (for a little while, at least). I removed the master window switch and received the desired result. I figured rain may have dripped into the switch an corroded the contacts. I sprayed some wd-40 in there and blew it out with some compressed air. (wd40 is volatile enough to remove some corrosion) Replaced switch and problem solved! Haven't had a problem since. That's my little story and my little redneck fix--best of luck!

  2. WELL, my 99 is a pleasure. 140k,

    most complaints I have had is door locks not working with KEY fob. make sure ALL 4 doors will lock and unlock. I have fixed mine.

    tranny mount replaced.

    front strut rod bushings replaced.

    engine mounts replaced.

    starter contacts replaced.

    and it gets 30mph at 80mph on the highway with AC on

    I've been lurking and watching your updates on that '99, Billy. I was hoping for your opinion. I noticed you decided to keep the '97 and part ways with the '96. (clever procedure on that starter, btw)

  3. Hello all- I don't post much (unless I have something of substance to add) and I own a '92 and mom has a '97, but I am looking at a '99 and I am wondering if you '99 owners can give me some insight as to what the particular common issues are regarding the '99. I have been inside and out of the '92 and '97, so I know their quirks, I'm just not familiar with the '99 and what I should be looking for in particular. Little background on this '99-137k, had tb/wp done at 120k (that's a gold star) small ding in the deck lid (I can live with that)-it's the jade pearl color w/ tan leather (my favorite!) I haven't seen the vehicle yet, just wanted some advice before I inspect. Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you in advance!

  4. The water pump is driven off the cam belt and is hidden behind the timing belt covers,if the cam belt is off and you tried to start it won't as the timing will be wrong,if you mean the serpentine belt that's different.

    I meant the radiator fan pulley is bent and the serpentine belt is off. So the engine should still start, right?

    Im gonna check spark.

    Yes, the engine should still start without the SBelt. Like Steve said, air shouldn't be a problem, so check spark and fuel.

    It seems to run for a just a second but then stalls. Is that like the anti-theft security preventing it from starting?

    No. If the anti theft is engaged, it won't even turn over, much less start for a second. I'd go back to the beginning and take the air filter out and leave the airbox open when you try to start it. Then I'd check that you are getting fuel, then spark.

  5. The water pump is driven off the cam belt and is hidden behind the timing belt covers,if the cam belt is off and you tried to start it won't as the timing will be wrong,if you mean the serpentine belt that's different.

    I meant the radiator fan pulley is bent and the serpentine belt is off. So the engine should still start, right?

    Im gonna check spark.

    Yes, the engine should still start without the SBelt. Like Steve said, air shouldn't be a problem, so check spark and fuel.

  6. Had a similar problem with a '91 LS400. Not really sputtering, but there would suddenly be no power when accelerator depressed--although engine would stay on for a while. Car would start fine and accelerate to almost any speed, but as soon as the accelerator was backed off, there was no more power going to the wheels and the engine would not even rev up. Was intermittent, but often occurred when hot after extensive stop and go driving.

    Then, would occur after only a little regular driving. Sometimes problem would clear up for a while after car sat and cooled.

    Replaced the fuel pump and and had no further problems.

    Had this on my '92. Not the exact same symptoms, but I would start with FUEL PUMP, if I were you, tailg8 guy.

  7. Thanks. Yes, it was the fan bracket bearing. The idler bearing was on its way out, so that was replaced too. Here's the rub. The mechanic who worked on the car told me that the shop that last replaced the serpentine belt put on The Wrong Size, as in 'too small'. The mechanic said it was on there so tight they had a really hard time getting it off. You know, if I take my car in to a shop, and if I ask for a simple thing to be done, like replace that cracked serpentine belt, I should not have to second guess that person's work. Right? I mean, HOW HARD CAN IT BE?

    Here is my thinking on all the parts you mentioned:

    1) BELT - Just by eyeballing it, the serpentine belt looks fine, and it's also relatively new. I did see a slight wriggle when watching it on idle yesterday. I thought I saw a slight 'hitch' as it circled (off to one side off and on), but have no idea whether that is normal 'play' (?);

    2) IDLER PULLEY - From what I have read, the idler pulley would make a different noise, more of a screeching noise;

    3) POWER STEERING PUMP - The pump and all related power steering components were replaced maybe five years ago. The power steering fluid was checked (and was normal) about a month ago.

    4) ALTERNATOR - It's a 4 y/o rebuilt that tested in the 'normal output' range a few months ago, though was a little on the weak side (not by much). The guy from AAA who ran the tests on my dead battery said not to run the A/C and the radio at the same time, because over time that could wear down the battery again. We never did figure out why the battery was completely drained one day.

    5) A/C COMPRESSOR - I have no knowledge of this part or even where it is. It sounds expensive.

    6) FAN BRACKET - Someone else described a noise similar to what I am hearing (I think it was a Club Lexus post) and this was the culprit. They replaced a bunch of other bearings and such while they were 'in there'.

    I recently had the bearings go out on the fan bracket in my '92. I could hear and feel the vibration when the car was at idle. Opened the hood and could see an intermittent "slow" of the fan when car was idling. I took the drive belt off and spun the fan. Instead of coming to a gradual halt, the fan would slow abruptly, so, bingo!, bearings in the fan bearing bracket were junk. Car was also at 258k mi., with the last tb/wp at 119k, so I went ahead and did it all. Car runs like new, just have to replace windscreen and figure a fix for old, cracked seats. I told you all of that to tell you this: my suspicion is that your problem is worn bearings in the fan bearing bracket. Best of luck!

    In my case, the noise was a lower tone than the engine at idle. It was intermittent, with associated vibration. That is to say: the engine would hum along as per usual at idle and then the engine would feel and sound as if it were "bogging down," as if something were applying an undue load to the engine. If I sat in the driver's seat and placed my right hand on the middle of the dash above the seats, I could feel a noticeable vibration during the "bogging down." What was happening was that the bearings on the fan clutch bracket were so worn, the fan was unable to turn freely and smoothly-trying to stop turning, even. That, in turn, was placing more load on the drive (serpentine) belt trying to turn the mechanical fan and causing the engine to work harder to rotate everything, thus the "bogging down." It was not constant , but came and went (department of redundancy dept.?). When I removed the drive belt from the fan pulley, I was unable to appreciate any undue "play" or "wiggle" in the fan, but the fan would not rotate freely. How can I put this? It was like there was a tangle on the middle of a yo-yo string, such that the yo-yo doesn't unwind smoothly. Also, when I applied a decent amount of throttle between 35-45mph, there was a noise and vibration like when you thumb-shuffle two halves of a deck of cards together. Sorry for the length, but that is the best way I can explain. I hope this helps in some way.

    I feel your pain. Replacing a drive belt on your '94 should take no more than 1min30sec. That's about how long it took me, and I don't goof with cars for a living.(I goof with them like it IS my job, though)

  8. WOW that pretty pimpn' for someone with your... uhh wisdom. Ditch the rims and that is one awesome ride. You did well. BTW how much you looking to get for the '97 your now going to sell?

    Thanks, glad you like it... I will ask $5900 for the 97, so I can come down to $5500. but for a club member I will take $5000. the 97 chrome wheels will go on the new 99, original wheels off the 99 will go on the 97 and the 20" wheels and tires will be sold also

    Wow. I would be very, very, very interested in that '97, if you haven't already blessed someone else with it. If you wouldn't mind, could you email me? davispb@mindspring.com

  9. Here is my thinking on all the parts you mentioned:

    1) BELT - Just by eyeballing it, the serpentine belt looks fine, and it's also relatively new. I did see a slight wriggle when watching it on idle yesterday. I thought I saw a slight 'hitch' as it circled (off to one side off and on), but have no idea whether that is normal 'play' (?);

    2) IDLER PULLEY - From what I have read, the idler pulley would make a different noise, more of a screeching noise;

    3) POWER STEERING PUMP - The pump and all related power steering components were replaced maybe five years ago. The power steering fluid was checked (and was normal) about a month ago.

    4) ALTERNATOR - It's a 4 y/o rebuilt that tested in the 'normal output' range a few months ago, though was a little on the weak side (not by much). The guy from AAA who ran the tests on my dead battery said not to run the A/C and the radio at the same time, because over time that could wear down the battery again. We never did figure out why the battery was completely drained one day.

    5) A/C COMPRESSOR - I have no knowledge of this part or even where it is. It sounds expensive.

    6) FAN BRACKET - Someone else described a noise similar to what I am hearing (I think it was a Club Lexus post) and this was the culprit. They replaced a bunch of other bearings and such while they were 'in there'.

    I recently had the bearings go out on the fan bracket in my '92. I could hear and feel the vibration when the car was at idle. Opened the hood and could see an intermittent "slow" of the fan when car was idling. I took the drive belt off and spun the fan. Instead of coming to a gradual halt, the fan would slow abruptly, so, bingo!, bearings in the fan bearing bracket were junk. Car was also at 258k mi., with the last tb/wp at 119k, so I went ahead and did it all. Car runs like new, just have to replace windscreen and figure a fix for old, cracked seats. I told you all of that to tell you this: my suspicion is that your problem is worn bearings in the fan bearing bracket. Best of luck!

    In my case, the noise was a lower tone than the engine at idle. It was intermittent, with associated vibration. That is to say: the engine would hum along as per usual at idle and then the engine would feel and sound as if it were "bogging down," as if something were applying an undue load to the engine. If I sat in the driver's seat and placed my right hand on the middle of the dash above the seats, I could feel a noticeable vibration during the "bogging down." What was happening was that the bearings on the fan clutch bracket were so worn, the fan was unable to turn freely and smoothly-trying to stop turning, even. That, in turn, was placing more load on the drive (serpentine) belt trying to turn the mechanical fan and causing the engine to work harder to rotate everything, thus the "bogging down." It was not constant , but came and went (department of redundancy dept.?). When I removed the drive belt from the fan pulley, I was unable to appreciate any undue "play" or "wiggle" in the fan, but the fan would not rotate freely. How can I put this? It was like there was a tangle on the middle of a yo-yo string, such that the yo-yo doesn't unwind smoothly. Also, when I applied a decent amount of throttle between 35-45mph, there was a noise and vibration like when you thumb-shuffle two halves of a deck of cards together. Sorry for the length, but that is the best way I can explain. I hope this helps in some way.

  10. Here is my thinking on all the parts you mentioned:

    1) BELT - Just by eyeballing it, the serpentine belt looks fine, and it's also relatively new. I did see a slight wriggle when watching it on idle yesterday. I thought I saw a slight 'hitch' as it circled (off to one side off and on), but have no idea whether that is normal 'play' (?);

    2) IDLER PULLEY - From what I have read, the idler pulley would make a different noise, more of a screeching noise;

    3) POWER STEERING PUMP - The pump and all related power steering components were replaced maybe five years ago. The power steering fluid was checked (and was normal) about a month ago.

    4) ALTERNATOR - It's a 4 y/o rebuilt that tested in the 'normal output' range a few months ago, though was a little on the weak side (not by much). The guy from AAA who ran the tests on my dead battery said not to run the A/C and the radio at the same time, because over time that could wear down the battery again. We never did figure out why the battery was completely drained one day.

    5) A/C COMPRESSOR - I have no knowledge of this part or even where it is. It sounds expensive.

    6) FAN BRACKET - Someone else described a noise similar to what I am hearing (I think it was a Club Lexus post) and this was the culprit. They replaced a bunch of other bearings and such while they were 'in there'.

    I recently had the bearings go out on the fan bracket in my '92. I could hear and feel the vibration when the car was at idle. Opened the hood and could see an intermittent "slow" of the fan when car was idling. I took the drive belt off and spun the fan. Instead of coming to a gradual halt, the fan would slow abruptly, so, bingo!, bearings in the fan bearing bracket were junk. Car was also at 258k mi., with the last tb/wp at 119k, so I went ahead and did it all. Car runs like new, just have to replace windscreen and figure a fix for old, cracked seats. I told you all of that to tell you this: my suspicion is that your problem is worn bearings in the fan bearing bracket. Best of luck!

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