jaycin

My 94 SC400 acted up last week. When I came to a stop light, the engine would die. Started up immediately but had to keep the gas peddle down to hold 1000 rpm or so. The car performs perfectly at all speeds --- the mpg is right on. Took it to the dealer and they fixed something and got it back to proper idle in a few minutes at NO CHARGE. The mechanic said it was a loose battery (not the cable) which was recently installed. He said the battery might wobble as the car is driven. Well anyway the idle problem returned this weekend even after I tied the battery down as tight as possible.

I sure don't understand what the real problem was/is (and I think a slight wobble is questionable cause). I would appreciate any input from you folks. One input from a friend was to remove the locking gas cap which might be causing a high vacuum in the tank. Possibility??

I just realized that both windows on my 94 SC400 are not working. Before I start testing, is there a controlling fuse I should be searching for? What did you pay for the regulator repair? Many Thanks

I had the same problem last Fall. Someone suggested that I might have water in the gas since I only drive my 400 three or four times a year ( 27,000 total miles now). I added gas treatment (Seafoam I think) and it cured the problem.

I have had a few problems over the years with a sticking gas pedal, but very few. I have sprayed the linkage with WD40 and that would fix the problem for many months. I do that with each lube job. Now I'm a little concerned that our Lexus vehicles from Toyota might have pedal designs that Toyota is currently expiriencing. I'd like to see if other Lexus owners here have had problems in the past.

Those are some good suggestions. Tell me how to bench test an injector please. I think the first thing I'll do is clean the injectors. What type of cleaning or brand would you suggest I use to add to the fuel tank? Is there an optimal level of fuel in the tank to get the most out of the additive? I appreciate your time.

Hello. I recently purchased two O2 sensers on eBay for $60 and had them installed by a muffler shop here in Dallas for $50 total.

Hi guys i need help i want to replace both HO2 the mechanic are asking $300.00 and i think thats alot so please if somebody can tell me where they locate i am sure i will do them myself thanks

here is a break down for you:)

also.....dont forget the "anti seize" when installing the new ones:) (and always use saftey stands and eye protection)

Luxdud, Wouldn't a dirty MAF or IACV give me a Check Engine Light? I get no such indication.

Thanks for your reply. The gas cannot be the culprit. I drive this car about 6 times a year and each time I refill the tank. The last trip took the full tank to refill (October) and it's always 93 octane. The real question might be --- After the car gets to full warm-up, why does the problem dissappear? If the gas had excess moisture, the problem would persist long after start-up. Could the problem rest in the trottle linkage in your opinion?

Bought this 93 in 95 with 13000 miles on it. Put only 14000 more on it in the last 14 years. You might say I don't use it very much. My old ford P/U gets all the miles. This past week I decided to take it for a ride. It started right up but died as soon as I released the gas peddle. Stomped the peddle and it idled OK. AT the stop sign (quarter mile or so) it died again. Would not idle but started each time (about 5 restarts). So I held the peddle down in NEUTRAL at 1000 RPM until the engine warmed. Then it held the idle and I had no more problem that day. But the problem resurfaced the next day. I would appreciate some feedback as to what the problem might be. Many thanks .

Recently I haven't been able to unlock my driver's door with the remote and I have to manually use the key to unlock the door?

Is the actuator bad? I am able to lock it with the remote with no problem.

Sorry about the previous post. Haven't learned the system yet.

I had a similar problem many years ago. Turned out that the battery in the key was just weak enough to lock but not strong enough to unlock the doors. Worth a try.

Recently I haven't been able to unlock my driver's door with the remote and I have to manually use the key to unlock the door?

Is the actuator bad? I am able to lock it with the remote with no problem.