Ray Garlington

The bank 1 oxygen sensor is on the back of the engine near the firewall. It can be replaced fairly easily; however, access is somewhat restricted and may be frustrating to an inexperienced mechanic. The cost of this can be as low as $50 (DIY) or as much as $200 (perhaps more at a dealer).

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Thank you for replying, i appreciate all your help guys. Mr Ray, do you know by any chance what i have to check in specific regarding the electronic components for the transmission? i have tried to look information about it but have not been able to ind something in specific. Once again, thank you for your help. :)

I do not have experience specific to this car, so in general terms any control module, solenoid or sensor involved with controlling the transmission can cause drive-ability problems. I have seen transmission control modules fail resulting in very unusual shifting without triggering an OBD. There are also solenoids and electronic sensors that can fail and cause similar problems.

When the problem occurs, make careful note of all indications at the instrument cluster together with specifics about what the transmission is doing. Then see what Mr Google has to say. I have seen examples where a person will take the advice of a transmission specialist and have a rebuild done and in the end have the same problem they started with (because the transmission control electronics were faulty, not the mechanicals of the transmission).

I have a problem with my ES300, it was fine a couple of days ago, last night the transmission slipped, i parked and turned off the car, turned back on and it seemed fine, this morning, I drove to work, then back home and when i tried to drive again in the afternoon the car stopped completely in the middle of the road. It had just enough force left to get it off the road. i had it towed on a flat bed to the mechanic, and when i got there, the car did go forward on D and R (weird), after a while it didn't do anything else and was stuck again. a friend tells me it might be the transmission fluid, but it seems to fine, please help! Thank you!

Be sure to check the electronics associated with the transmission. A sudden failure like you are describing is often a sign that an electronic device/controller has failed. Based on your description it is a failure that the OBD system can not detect.

... I stopped it, turned off ignition and swithc it on again. It was driving normal for another mile...

Took it to a Royal transmission and they are telling that we need to rebuid the transmission and going to cost 2000-2500.

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I am not familiar with this specific transmission; however, there is a computer that controls the shift points of most transmissions. Sometimes they become defective with age and have odd failures like this. In any event, taking a transmission that is shifting poorly to a transmission shop is asking for trouble. (They probably never saw a malfunctioning transmission that didn't need a good rebuilding.)

My son had an experience with his 1991 Honda Accord's transmission, where it began shifting in a haphazard manner. He took it to an AAmco transmission place where they kept the car all day only to tell him his transmission oil was 'burned' and the computer was 'throwing every code in the book'. He was informed that rebuilding the transmission would cost $1800 minimum and up to $2300 depending on what was wrong with it. He ended up fixing the problem by replacing the transmission control module with a used unit off ebay for $50.

Well perhaps George Jetson over reacted, but he has been trying to give you good advice based on what you have told him.

When your neighbor says fuel pumps and filters rarely fail, that is true depending on how you look at it. Pumps can reliably last 150k miles or so, but then start to fail with increasing frequency. My impression is that you have an old pump, and your symptoms suggest you are experiencing old-pump problems; however, the new information about code p1300 is important. Also, fuel filters 'rarely fail'; however, they become clogged with age and start to restrict the flow of fuel to the fuel rail, while at the same time increasing back pressure to the pump.

Code P1300 suggests a problem with your ignition (probably a bad electrical component or wire). I don't know the '94, so I can't help there.

In tank fuel pumps will often bind occasionally before they freeze-up completely. When they bind fuel pressure drops to zero and the engine will stall. It seems likely that you are experiencing this.

I just changed to pennzoil ultra, which I plan to run for about 10,000 miles.

My 2004 ES330 started making a very odd sound/noise today (90k mi) from behind the glovebox, sort of like a hamster is back there playing around. Clicking, Popping, Mechanical type sound. It happens whenever the car is running, regardless of whether the A/C is on/off, but when the A/C is working hard it is much more apparent. After searching around here it sounds very similar to the A/C servo issues that I found in the RX section... Does the ES300/ES330 suffer from this same servo problem? I guess I need to remove the glove box and start some diagnostics to figure it out, but I'm just not looking forward to doing so.

Thanks.

Take the cabin filter out and check the fan below it. It is possible that there is some debris bouncing around on top of the fan.