azmalu

harmonic balancer/ crankshaft pulley can grind wrong after high mileage or accident. that caused similar issue for me where steering right after turning car on was rough ac light would flash radio flickered then all of a suddent it all stopped working.

I drained and replaced 2 quarts of tranny fluid when I did my 60K service last May. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, etc. last month, and did another drain and fill. Except this time, I let it drain overnight while the front wheels were up on ramps.......instead of a 2 quart drain, I drained 5-6! All that nice fresh tranny fluid.......it shifts "like butta". It wasn't necessarily shifting hard before, but there is a slight improvement. The old fluid was pretty dark, so in addition to a slight shifting improvement, it makes me feel better, too. :)

so for the non diy'ers like me that are considering a flush I have come across two options:

http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

Cooler Line Flush

The first type of flush machine connects into the transmission cooler lines. BG makes this kind and here is how it works. The line going from the transmission to the transmission cooler is disconnected and connected to the machine line in. The line out from the machine carrying new fluid is connected to the line going to the cooler. There is a chamber on the machine that has a diaphragm in it. The top part of the chamber above the diaphragm is filed with new fluid. The engine is started which turns the torque converter and the input shaft on the transmission. The input shaft turns the transmission pump and it makes hydraulic pressure. This causes fluid to flow through the cooler line. As fluid leaves the cooler line it enters the chamber on the flush machine. As the old fluid side of the diaphragm fills it pushes the diaphragm up and forces new fresh fluid into the transmission. After a while the old fluid is collected in the machine and it is replaced by new fluid. Now the transmission has been flushed. Really pretty simple. As you can see the machine cause no pressure and all fluid transfer is done by the transmission�s own pump.

Pump Inlet Flush

This kind attaches to the pump intake after the pan and filter is removed. This machine only supplies fresh new fluid to the pump intake and as the fluid passes through the transmission it dumps out to a collection tray and never goes back through for a second pass. All of the old fluid and crud is GONE and replace with fresh new fluid. After the service a new filter is installed, the pan replaced and then it is topped off with new fluid to the proper level on the dipstick.

This process takes a total of 20 quarts of fluid to flush out 15 quarts of old fluid, replaces the fluid, and gives the mechanic the opportunity to look in the pan for anything unusual that would indicate a pending failure.

Most local shops aamco brake masters midas etc use the cheaper cooler line flush option but always say they replace 99% of fluid. That sounds great but if they are not removing pan how do they get rid of metal sediments gunk etc.? Any thoughts? My car is at 100k . I think previous driver was very gently but I have had it for about 10k with constant stop and go traffic that is why I am concerned. I know doing flush can sometimes make things worse so maybe the less intense may be the better option. Please advise.

Update: went to aamco.....

Said they wont flush it. suppossedly has some internal problems. same issue we all describe about jerking between 1st and 2nd. told him not worried went on my way. still would like to find a shop to flush it. He said it was a quart low so debating on whether to fluid and some lucas...any thoughts?

Wow... The air filter was terrible... I have removed it until I buy another one.

THe door may have a mechanical problem. Everything else works and all other doors work.

I have similar issue. Lights in ashtray turn on but actual plug doesnt work. Problem happenned after I had car audio shop wire up sub. funny thing is they installed relay swtich and they say now that it went bad. Something is fishy I will check panel on driver side. If cig light fuse is bad what else would have stopped working?

i just did my maint in my 2001 gs430 so they similiar except motor........

make sure you change your spark plugs too (sewell lexus's website had the cheapest price on oem plugs) as our cars dont seem to like anyhting but oem plugs! also while your doing the timing belt/water pump do the idler pulley and tensioner. im gonna post a kit from ebay (i bought a kit from this guy for my 2001 gs430 if u dont believe me check his feedback (im on feedback page 18 about 8 people down)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Supr...tem260256475468

couldn't find all those parts separately for a cheaper price! dont have to replace the ball joint/tie rods/steering rack bushings JUST check them unless you wanna just replace them! i only payed 400 in labor BUT my friend owns the shop so they cut me a break! i did bring them most the parts.....oh check your 2 make sure your cam seals arent leaking while u in there! hope this helps

"i will welcome myself back to the forum as im,woo hooooooooo, finally unsuspended! hahaha!"

brian

sakatj...the ebay link didnt work...What was in it?

I'm around that 110k mark and am thinking about doing basic tune up things now. tran flush ,plugs, allignment...did all pads and turned rotors,

synthetic tranny fluid? oem plugs are they denso platinum? car holds 6 qts motor oil right?

I drained and replaced 2 quarts of tranny fluid when I did my 60K service last May. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, etc. last month, and did another drain and fill. Except this time, I let it drain overnight while the front wheels were up on ramps.......instead of a 2 quart drain, I drained 5-6! All that nice fresh tranny fluid.......it shifts "like butta". It wasn't necessarily shifting hard before, but there is a slight improvement. The old fluid was pretty dark, so in addition to a slight shifting improvement, it makes me feel better, too. :)

so for the non diy'ers like me that are considering a flush I have come across two options:

http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

Cooler Line Flush

The first type of flush machine connects into the transmission cooler lines. BG makes this kind and here is how it works. The line going from the transmission to the transmission cooler is disconnected and connected to the machine line in. The line out from the machine carrying new fluid is connected to the line going to the cooler. There is a chamber on the machine that has a diaphragm in it. The top part of the chamber above the diaphragm is filed with new fluid. The engine is started which turns the torque converter and the input shaft on the transmission. The input shaft turns the transmission pump and it makes hydraulic pressure. This causes fluid to flow through the cooler line. As fluid leaves the cooler line it enters the chamber on the flush machine. As the old fluid side of the diaphragm fills it pushes the diaphragm up and forces new fresh fluid into the transmission. After a while the old fluid is collected in the machine and it is replaced by new fluid. Now the transmission has been flushed. Really pretty simple. As you can see the machine cause no pressure and all fluid transfer is done by the transmission�s own pump.

Pump Inlet Flush

This kind attaches to the pump intake after the pan and filter is removed. This machine only supplies fresh new fluid to the pump intake and as the fluid passes through the transmission it dumps out to a collection tray and never goes back through for a second pass. All of the old fluid and crud is GONE and replace with fresh new fluid. After the service a new filter is installed, the pan replaced and then it is topped off with new fluid to the proper level on the dipstick.

This process takes a total of 20 quarts of fluid to flush out 15 quarts of old fluid, replaces the fluid, and gives the mechanic the opportunity to look in the pan for anything unusual that would indicate a pending failure.

Most local shops aamco brake masters midas etc use the cheaper cooler line flush option but always say they replace 99% of fluid. That sounds great but if they are not removing pan how do they get rid of metal sediments gunk etc.? Any thoughts? My car is at 100k . I think previous driver was very gently but I have had it for about 10k with constant stop and go traffic that is why I am concerned. I know doing flush can sometimes make things worse so maybe the less intense may be the better option. Please advise.

you went with: rotora rotors and hawk pads changed to synthetic fluid and g stop brake lines. Rears are all oem. .....So for stopping power is that why you chose oem for rears?

What is bbk and supra front?

Oem is semi metallic not ceramic like you said "if u do oem rotors or oem style rotors use the ceramic like they tell you to"

What does changing brake lines do?

So I guess some of it made sense but not really...will you clarify the things above......

not necessarily. i went with rotora rotors and some hawks pads, synthetic fluid and some g-stop brake lines all the way around (rears are oem factory pads/ oem factory rotors).....was just a personal choice. didnt matter to me what they were made out of, was for stopping power for my choice. if i ever get some extra $$ i'll do a bbk front and rear or a supra front . if u do oem rotors or oem style rotors use the ceramic like they tell you to. if u just driving on street some aftermarket pads/rotors are fine and do the brake lines while your at in in my opinion. i still feel hung over from this last weekend so i dunno if im making sense to you

I have the same issue. I think it is rear break pads and rotors. Just had fronts replaced and turned rotors. Those clips are annoying. I will confirm whether it is rear pads and rotors or clips up front. Same exact issue you described.

It seems everyone is buying aftermarket rotors but trying to match oem pads? Does that mean most of yall prefer semi metallic to ceramic?

Hi Guys,

Havent found the specs for the factory amp power and sub ohm load. Crutchfield wasnt help. I will be building a ported box and having a few more inches for height would be nice. That is why I want to repalce factory sub with something that is more shallow than what we have now(4.5 inch depth. A lot of times factory systems run on 8 ohm load.

okay determined factory 10 is a 2ohm sub. power handling unknown . factory amp power unknown. pulled from tundra forum thread by gs300 user :

First, sit in the back seat and grab the front of the seat from underneath, lift until it pops out and remove the seat bottom.

Now you see 7 bolts that hold the vertical back seat. Some are 12 mm others are 14 mm. Unscrew them all. Remove the head rests. Now lift the leather flaps under the headrests and unscrew the two 12 mm screws there. Move the vertical seat forward ( keep seat belts attached to the deck.at the top ).

Now you can lift the rear deck and unscrew the existing sub.

To install the new one ( with different bolt pattern ) you might have to use some plywood to trace the pattern of new sub and securely bolt it on said plywood. Use some foam gasket material between sub and wood to eliminate vibrations. Now check out the screw pattern in the deck and use the same bolts to install your plywood with new sub on it into existing spot. Again, use foam gasket material to dampen potential vibrations.

Hi Guys,

Havent found the specs for the factory amp power and sub ohm load. Crutchfield wasnt help. I will be building a ported box and having a few more inches for height would be nice. That is why I want to repalce factory sub with something that is more shallow than what we have now(4.5 inch depth. A lot of times factory systems run on 8 ohm load.

I got a kit from ultrabrightlights.com. I've had the kit since sept. and no problems to date. Like #1gs said you can chrome your grille yourself for cheap. It is a great and inexpensive mod. You can also check sites like luxurymods.com or l-tunedparts.com for aftermarket grilles.

will someone post a picture of their grille after they did the grille mod?

Does anyone know where I should put the mount for my portable GPS on a 99 GS300? Thanks for the suggestions.

Not to sound cheeky but try the gs forum....

Hey guy I went and paid 12 bucks for a knob at local dealer that guy said was right fit. I know its not. It is a smaller knob and does not even cover the whole opening. Does anyone know the actual model no. for the non nak. stereo's in a 96 es. My 94 was Pioneer but I remember reading somewhere that this is a Fujitsu Ten. Still need model no. to try and order button directly from manufacturer. Please advise.

the mounting depth and mod work involved for 6.5 will be a lot of work and i dont know if it woudl be worth it. My first suggestiosn sell those buy same model if you like the sound 5.25" should cost you less than what you made when you sell your 6.5's lexls.com has diy instructions to get from factory 4 to 5.25 but 4 to 6 is big jump...

great writeup:

http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/howto_hood_shocks.htm

btw whats included in a strut mounting kit compared to strut mounts alone...both include bearings its something else thats different look at first 2 items in this link .... strut mounting kit with bearing (sachs) 74usd vs. strut mount with bearing (KYB OEM) 67usd

rears im finding for 72 but fronts are 90.... hmm...they say they will beat any price do you have a link or a website that I can try and cross reference for pricing....? btw thanks for the pdf file but it still left me confused because the 97-01 is the only years that have 2 parts numbers referenced for each part. ie right hand front 334245 then below is listed 235710 (45) but it says in parentheses exclused adj. susp. sooo I think Ive ordered the right parts but havent completed my order. Also are the mounting kits a must or simply a good idea? They cost as much as the strut. If I bought those I would need to buy 4 right thats a lotta money....

Hey guys Im looking for closest to oem replacement for 97 ...Im on the autopartswarehouse site and its confusing the ell out of me...The oem kyb gr2 version is 90.26 and then there is another version of kyb gr2 that boast lifetime warranty at 91.95 so I called the telephone support and I dont think the guy knows what hes talking about . He said the oem version is better and thas is because it is made in japan. He told me it only has a 1 yr warranty. It costs less shorter warranty but made in japan over taiwan makes it a better part? whats the basis? also is 90 bucks a piece sound like fair pricing? Im looking for comfort ride any other brand or model suggestions?

http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/...bly&dp=true

autuopartswarehouse page

please advise.

yea guys look on ebay....metra kit that fits single or iso is 20 bucks shipped mod it to fit double din if you please....metra wiring harness is 70-8112 and you dont need seperate antenna adapter...

anthony sorry i think i read through post too quick i thought it was your own car....I just suggested that as a method to save money...Once you have taken off the door this can be done without actually have to replace regulator which IMO was a pia

anthony if you havent alredy had the cord break you might be able to open up reel and put it back on right

(requires patience but saves 70-80 bucks) thats if you buy it used...or dealer i think is 125 ish....

I have this debate every time but since I am hopefully sticking to HU power im gonna go either infinity reference or jbl power series...(same parent company same PLUS ONE woofer adn surroudn just different tweets) ...JBl is typically or a more warm sound maybe even considered muddy next to infinitys but sometimes the infinitys sound too tinny....but with my new sub (blew out perfect 12 gonna get a ED 130vo2) http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/elemental..._13ov2chart.php and also contemplating changing out rear deck sub to Kicker Comp C8 (read about it on here seems like a good match) RMS 100 peak 200 but if what i read on here is right about sub channel putting out 40-50 rms it shoudl be okay.....

Okay thas cool thanks for the fyi...on the es it was that easy to get to......I would want to run ofc just for the sake of ofc just so i could get rid of xover lol....Yeah I rememer when everything was working in this car I rarely would have the volume above like 1/3 It was great....today I didnt get around to taking off doors so ittle b later this week but If I told you tweets and sub are the only thing that played would you be more likely to connect that to the phone being taken out or somply amp or speakers going bad....?

would a cheap 5 dollar soldering iron and maybe ten minutes of your time take care of soldering and unsoldering....? You mentioned you used the inline xover on coax so obviously you did run new speaker wire did you end up changing out factory HU ....if so did you notice whether you had full range out of those rears or kinda capped? because of te passive xovers in nak system....

Did this just start? Do you have a built-in telephone?

davidk either you know about the correlation or possibly you can help me find the thread how it references that in the ls the phone is wired through the speaker line..... i foudn it last night looked throughmy history and i keep missing it... my dad owned the car for a bout 5 or six years sold it and bough it abck...that owner took out phone and im guessing thats when all the other speakers stopped working.... tweets and sub are only things that play please advise...