SeaDuck79

90k Service done at Toyota- Basic 90k - $569.95

Synthetic oil change

Change engine air filter

Replace coolant

Replace iridium spark plugs

Rotate Tires

Drain and refill tranny

Inspect:

Brakes, discs, drums, lines, hoses

drive shaft boots

steering linkage

drive belts

body and chassis nuts and bolts

fuel line connections

exhaust/mountings

Additional Services & Costs

Wiper Blades (3 total - 2 front, 1 back) - $40

Timing Belt

Parts $104.26

Labor $650

Fluid Changes & Fuel Injection - $278.88

1) P/S Fluid

2) Brake Fluid

3) Fuel Injection (every 30k)

Rear Bulb - $3

Drive Belts (2 belts)

Total = $1631.09

Grant total OTD with 15% Discount = $1391

What's the verdict?

$570? Are you kidding me? Oil change: $45. Tranny change: $150. Replacing spark plugs: Anyone with a socket wrench can do. Nothing else there should be even charged for. I wouldn't pay more than $250 for that package.

The Timing Belt and last set of charges look OK, though.

mccldwll- No, in my opinion, if you don't have anything added in the way of electrical or electronics, if the battery is in good shape, it shouldn't go dead in a month. So many batteries these days are junk that it is hard to recommend a GOOD battery. Though the battery is only 2 years old, a lot of them are already getting weak by then. You just don't know it when you drive it every day. It doesn't take a lot of amperage to start a car that is in good shape- then it runs on the alternator. The battery is pretty much just for starting. When run every day you won't realize it is getting very weak, but setting a few days, much less a month will reveal the truly weak battery. If it's only 2 years old, is there a chance it is still under a full replacement warrantee? A lot of batteries now have a 3 year free replacement warrantee before they start pro-ration period.

Actually, we accidentally left a dome light on for a week while away on vacation, and that killed the 3 year old battery. Once recharged, it's continued to work fine, but there was ZERO juice in the battery when we got back.

Hey, I've complained before about the stupidest cruise control ever on my '04 330. If it detects the slightest loss of torque, it downshifts, and there goes your MPG. Even on a freeway overpass, it often downshifts. Going faster does help, but at anything under 65, I usually leave it off.

Why a quality brand with top engineers like Lexus would put such a crappy part on their vehicles is beyond me. I drive lots of cheaper rentals from all different mfgrs, and NO other car I've ever driven is like that.

Lexus: FIX IT if you expect me to buy another one someday.

Have you considered the Bridgestones - I think the Alenza? There are some other threads here that talk about them. I have them, and love them. Great wet handling and fairly quiet.

I just had the ECM flashed a couple months ago, and noticed an IMMEDIATE difference - it would actually downshift when I punched the gas pedal.

I would definitely recommend this new flash.

I totally agree. I put the Alenzas on my 2004 last spring, and they hold the road like glue, wet or dry. Noise is about the same as the factory tires, but I like these better, and my wife doesn't even have to think about whether she'll have traction in any situation - she just does.

I paid about $200/tire to get them on the car (for the 18 inch), with all the ups and extras on it.

For future reference, I know of no such "policy". Even if they won't negotiate the price, I was able to get more years/miles for the SAME price, which is the same thing as getting a discount.

As you also found, there are numerous ways for the imaginitave to skin this cat.

So either my car's bi-polar or there's a problem. The only way to get warm air to come out is to put the temperature control on max. Anything else is ice cold.

We don't use the "Auto" function - it's always setting a temp, and it worked fine until the battery ran down to dead one day (overhead light left on for a week).

Lexus dealer said they couldn't find a problem with the ECM. Any ideas on what I should tell them to do next time we take it in?

Have a 2004 330, and it rides a little soft for me. I'd like to firm it up some on corners without making the ride harsh.

Any suggestions that won't cost an arm and a child or two?

Agreed. I paid about $800 for 4 Bridgestones (Seattle area), and that included all the nickel/dime stuff. My wife loves them - great wet/dry traction.

My wife LOVES the Bridgestones. They grip the road well, are quiet, and have good wet traction as well. It's the best choice for the 18" rim.

Sorry, but the term "Mean Time Between Failure" is conspicuously missing from the vocabulary of many here. Every manufactured part of any device has one, and it represents the AVERAGE time that part can be expected to last. Average means that some will last longer and some shorter than that average. Unless you can show some negligence or REAL reason to blame Lexus, how exactly should they be on the hook for a part failing when it was supposed to, especially when it lasted for TWICE as long as it was warranteed to last?

We don't live in a perfect world, people. Sometimes you get the good part, sometimes you get the bad one. Grow up and stop blaming people for not always getting the good one.

Sorry about your loss, but you must remember that all things wear out at some point. For every engine that goes 500k, there's one that craps out at 50k, with the average somewhere in the middle. You may have had that 50k one, and your good maintenance extended its life.

As much as we have come to expect it in this day and age, even things made by the best people using the best manufacturing methods and materials will break/wear out at some point, and it isn't always SOMEone's fault. I hope your solution lasts for a long time, and repays your investment.

I bought my 330 after those two firmware upgrades, though I did make sure they were installed. I still ain't happy, hence my pessimism.

Yes, I noticed the transmission lag.......I don't drive my wifes RX much, but she is a lead foot.......I let the transmission shift normal and it is a dog...the dealer tells me the transmission adjust to our driving? I know a little bit about tranmission logic and there is a circuit board for this but its lousy way to design this.......it is not what I see on my other eletronic transmissions.

What you are seeing is consistent with what we've been reporting here for years. We don't like it either, and I hope it never gets one of us killed, but Lexus doesn't seem all that interested in fixing it, from what I've seen.

The only workaround I have seen is to manually downshift when I need to accelerate quickly.

Hello,

My wife's 04 RX330 is nearing the end of the factory warranty. It has about 30K miles. I am looking for a good extended warranty and would like to get some suggestions.

Lexus is offering an extended warranty (7 yrs/ 75K miles) for approximately $1800 (after a $200 off coupon). I am yet to call warranydirect.com and the other warranty companies. I understand inclusionary and exclusionary type warranties etc., and that these things come with a bunch of complications and not covered items.

Any suggestions? good experiences?

Thanks

Kamz

I researched the cost of third-party extended warranty coverage before buying my 330 in 2004. The deal the dealership offerred me was very close in price, and I negotiated a couple of extra years into it at no extra cost, I purchased it. I have never had a question or a problem with using it - the Lexus dealerships have all that info in their computer, and I've never been charged $1 for any of the minor repairs necessary.

Whether you would have that level of seamless service with a third-party warranty is something I don't know.

I was told by more than one person that the rear main seals are the most likely thing to need replacement under an EW, and the cost of that alone will pay for the coverage.

Where does one find Lexus warranty discount coupons? My local dealer has a take it or leave it Lexus financial set of warranty packages. Are you suggesting that the addition of a coverage can be negotiated?

There is a good sized profit margin in the Extended Warranties - as much as 50%. I was able to get them to give some of that up because I was also buying a $40k car. Whether you can exact that much leverage without buying a car is probably a bit suspect.

Hello,

My wife's 04 RX330 is nearing the end of the factory warranty. It has about 30K miles. I am looking for a good extended warranty and would like to get some suggestions.

Lexus is offering an extended warranty (7 yrs/ 75K miles) for approximately $1800 (after a $200 off coupon). I am yet to call warranydirect.com and the other warranty companies. I understand inclusionary and exclusionary type warranties etc., and that these things come with a bunch of complications and not covered items.

Any suggestions? good experiences?

Thanks

Kamz

I researched the cost of third-party extended warranty coverage before buying my 330 in 2004. The deal the dealership offerred me was very close in price, and I negotiated a couple of extra years into it at no extra cost, I purchased it. I have never had a question or a problem with using it - the Lexus dealerships have all that info in their computer, and I've never been charged $1 for any of the minor repairs necessary.

Whether you would have that level of seamless service with a third-party warranty is something I don't know.

I was told by more than one person that the rear main seals are the most likely thing to need replacement under an EW, and the cost of that alone will pay for the coverage.

If you paln to keep this SUV for a while, I would recommed getting a Life time Wheel alignment Plan , Firestone Service sells it for about $119.00 on sale, so does Vespia's not sure how much they charge for life time.

I have always used this lifetime alignment and was really worth it for the life of the vehicle. (Two alignment checks and you get your money back)

some issues with really bad wobbling and vibration from the tires----- you need to get the tires balanced, or it might be as simple as some wheel lug nuts loose. First check if the lug nuts are tight enough, if all are ok, get the wheel balanced and alignment - you are really going to see a big difference. Then stay away from pot holes - or you be standing in line for your next alignment.

My 2000 RX pulls to on coming traffic if I let go the wheel, and my front tires seems to have lost much more thread compared to the rear, time to take it in.

:P :P

I did just that when I bought new tires for my 330. I agree - it will be a good investment. If it saves the cost of one tire over the next 8 years, it's paid for itself. Plus, with the lifetime plan, I just have them check it every time the tires get rotated, at no extra cost, and stop little problems before they become big ones.

I am as interested in mileage on these tires, as I am with wet and snow drivability. I am also extremely interested in how much noise they make. I am disappointed in the amount of noise intrusion on rough surfaces from Michelins.

Anyone care to report on the noise of the various aftermarket tires for an '05?

I just bought a set of the Bridgestone Alenzas for my wife's '04 330. We haven't noticed any difference in road noise, which, in a car as quiet as the 330, we shouldn't. Snow traction was quite good enough to get around in the snow and ice we had up in Seattle last month. As long as I didn't try to slide, or get stupid, they held the road well.

Rain traction has been good enough that I can't remember the last time we hydroplaned.

I would definitely buy these tires again. Cost me about $800 total for the set at Firestone.

You sure it isn't the power steering pump? They generally don't like being torqued to the stops.

Saw yesterday that the first of the LED headlights will be in a 2007 model car. Don't remember which one, though. It is only for driving lights and low beams - for now. It's a great solution for lights, since they almost never wear out, cost far less than expensive headlights, and use much less electricity than current models do.

the 'mark levinson' system is good as it is well integrated into the car, and has modes for driver front, all speakers and many more adjustments to tailor the sound to your tastes. it is well balanced with good bass. for people who are used to a large subwoofer i have read posts where they miss the visceral vibrating bass that a larger subwoofer will put out. i think it depends on the type of music you listen to partially. also keep in mind this system is made by Harmon industries who owns the 'mark levinson' name. it has a pioneer head unit and an amplifier provided by harmon. i dont know if it was mark levinson in design or where his actual input was. If you are a true audiophile you may only be satisfied with the system you put together, based of course on how much you are willing to spend.

Thanks for the info. On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 representing more money than people should spend on a car stereo and 1 being an AM radio with 1 speaker, how would you rate the stock and Levinson systems? I listen to mostly country & rock, and I don't need a "vibrate-the-whole-frigging-street" subwoofer. I put the stock system at about a 6.5 myself.

Are the differences between the two mostly in the sound produced, or is there additional flexibility in the EQ, etc.?

Just curious. I'm an audiophile, and while the stock stereo on my wife's 330 is ok, I want something top notch on the ES I'm looking at.

Here's how I feel about the RX330 HIDs. Tell me if you guys agree.

I like the design.

I like the shape.

I like the HID brightness.

I hate the HID shades which block the normal headlight beams above a certain height so that you don't "blind the cars in front of you".

Well, because of these shades, now you CAN'T SEE PAST ABOUT 40' IN FRONT OF THE CAR. Things in the road hide in the shadow of the shades and suddenly come into bright view when they get close enough to be illuminated by the HIDs.

Even worse, try navigating a hilly road. That means on the down part of a short dip, the head lights may only illuminate as little as 20' in front of the car, leaving the rest in DARKNESS.

In my 10 year old Honda with old regular headlights, I can see MORE distance because the non-HIDs are also NON-SHADED.

Hey Lexus, RANGE is more important than INTENSITY OF ILLUMINATION.

Solution: they should have made these shades a gradient of translucency, rather than the abrupt complete blockage of the light; to reduce the intensity of brightness in the "upper region" without making it completely dark.

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I had the same problem, until I had the dealer adjust them upwards. They work fine now. Maybe you should try that, before blaming design?

The other - perhaps the only real - value to the IDs on the lights is that it will make them a less attractive target than some other things. Thieves are pretty much lazy; they go after the easiest targets.

Hopefully, the word gets out on the street before too much longer that there are easier targets than 330 lights.