G and C Johnstone Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 My ES 300 had sat for 6 months. When it was restarted with a fresh charged battery it did not light its battery light with ignition on. The battery is not charging. I have changed the brushes in the alternator and measured the rotor at 4 ohms. Can anyone tell me if there is a fuse in the alternator ignition light circuit that may have blown. The alternator is:TOYOYA 27.60 0 - 2 0 0 7 0 second line :10 12 11 - 9 7 8 0 The out put feed wire is good and the control plug has three wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G and C Johnstone Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Further investigation: Diode stack has 1 short circuit + and - ve., from one stater terminal and rest open circuit. Parts from USA are very good prices but the freight is at gouge rates such that four alternators S&H are equal to the price of a return economy air fare NZ to USA. NZ parts are very expensive most likely for low volume and inventory on overdraft. A wreckers item maybe worth a look for $150 but a pick a part is only $65. I will try to get a similar size and swap the diode stack and regulator. The L wire is live with ignition on but the dash light is not illuminating. I hope for the fact possibly that there is protection from the short to earth in the diode stack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G and C Johnstone Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 I acquired a secondhand Japanese import alternator. Unfortunately it was broken but did have a good regulator which has allowed my battery indicator light to function. The damaged alternator had a bent pulley rendering unusable. Also the rectifier stack was open at one of the stater connection points which would have prevented correct balanced operation. Yes it would have charged the battery. However it would have made considerable A C ripple and probably upset the electronics in the car. I have seen a very unbalanced ( 4 positive and only one negative conducting diode ) bridge cause random idiot lights and in one instance a leaky diode fired up the remote door locking after start up as the battery demanded recovery charge. From a local recycle wrecker I managed to get a rectifier that I made to fit with just a touch of angle grinder to the body of my alternator. Unfortunately for me the supplier of the faulty alternator is refusing to acknowledge that his parts were less than good and intends to keep all of my payment on the basis that he will not accept responsibility for returns that have had any work done on them. I will face off with him and I am sure that we will at least will agree that his reputation is worth more than my demand for a 50% refund or permission to rifle his junk pile for alternator parts. A suitable modern rectifier is not coming at local price though. Of course my time is free. From his point of view too often a whole engine is in dispute where damaged parts came from the clients engine not the supplied one. I could appeal to the Credit Card Company with a charge back request which would likely be successful based on my technical expertise and a supplier's bad reputation if that is so. My point of view; $75 is not worth it and the supplier will get his just reward in heaven. The destruction of my alternator rectifier and 7/8 diodes could have been expected for the age of it or having been hit by lightening. Perhaps someone tried to pinch the car and hooked up the battery reversed That would do it in a flash. literally. Back driving a very nice almost 20 year old car. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G and C Johnstone Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 The supplier of the less than good second hand alternator has bought me off cheaply with a $50 refund. It is not too difficult to accept his point of view that often the return of faulty parts it the result of inept mechanic ing or out right fraud. He has reassessed me as a competent technician and agreed that the usefulness of his alternator would set the price I will pay as if it were the regulator only that I had bought. So in summary: The "batt" light on the dash of my car is lit from the ignition and grounded in the alternator's regulator. The failure of the alternator was electrical ( this is usually the case if it can not be fixed with a large or larger hammer ). It may have been instant from an overload charging with aged diodes. I believe that similar results might be possible from incorrect battery polarity. It will not happen again until next time. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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