Ball Joint Question 1992 Ls400

[wuzzy1]

Greetings Lexus Pros,

I purchased a new set of tires for my 1992 LS400 today and wanted a wheel alignment but the mechanic placed an iron bar under the tire while the wheels were off the ground and showed me 1/8 inch or more of play in the lower ball joints, he then said I'd need to replace the ball joints prior to a wheel alignment.

My questions are two.

One, can the tie rod end be removed by loosening the bolt to the top and then pounding it out with a hammer? I read that if a ball joint separator (tuning fork) is used that the seal will be destroyed and I am looking to avoid that.

Secondly, the mechanic also used a pry bar on the upper joints and although the play was hardly visable, he suggested that I replace the upper joints too.

Can I get by with just replacing the lower ball joints?

A heartful of thanks to all!

[oldskewel]

Greetings Lexus Pros,

I purchased a new set of tires for my 1992 LS400 today and wanted a wheel alignment but the mechanic placed an iron bar under the tire while the wheels were off the ground and showed me 1/8 inch or more of play in the lower ball joints, he then said I'd need to replace the ball joints prior to a wheel alignment.

My questions are two.

One, can the tie rod end be removed by loosening the bolt to the top and then pounding it out with a hammer? I read that if a ball joint separator (tuning fork) is used that the seal will be destroyed and I am looking to avoid that.

Secondly, the mechanic also used a pry bar on the upper joints and although the play was hardly visable, he suggested that I replace the upper joints too.

Can I get by with just replacing the lower ball joints?

A heartful of thanks to all!

I have a '91 with ~170k miles. Replacing the lower ball joints was the first thing I did when I bought the car (the "last straw" for the original owner).

I removed and replaced the tie rod ends without any damage because I used a screw-based extractor. You can too.

Although many have replaced upper ball joints, I have not. I don't think the two jobs are much related, so you can do the lowers, and then do the uppers later if needed.

Very nice of your mechanic to check that out for you and save you from getting an extra alignment.

Good luck.

[RDM]

You cannot replace the upper ball joint on it's own, it requires a complete replacement Aarm. Luckily there's an aftermarket source for $199 a pair for new arms with ball joints and bushings, they make a dramatic improvement in handling and raod feel. Alignment is not required after replacement since they're not adjustable.

The lower ball joint is simple to replace, two bolts secure it to the spindle, and as said if you use a screw type puller like this one: http://audi.kris-hansen.com/images/fca5.jpg or this: http://www.classiccougar.net/ViTech/contro...es/image014.jpg, it's literally a 5minute job per side.

[oldskewel]

You cannot replace the upper ball joint on it's own, it requires a complete replacement Aarm. Luckily there's an aftermarket source for $199 a pair for new arms with ball joints and bushings, they make a dramatic improvement in handling and raod feel. Alignment is not required after replacement since they're not adjustable.

The lower ball joint is simple to replace, two bolts secure it to the spindle, and as said if you use a screw type puller like this one: http://audi.kris-hansen.com/images/fca5.jpg or this: http://www.classiccougar.net/ViTech/contro...es/image014.jpg, it's literally a 5minute job per side.

Thanks for posting those pics. When I did mine, I used a puller like the second one (image014.jpg). I remember it being a tricky fit - if the puller were a little different in dimension it would not fit. Also, it took a lot of torque before it broke free. So a direct one (like the second one) will be better. The first one will allow bending of the tool, etc. I think I even torqued mine up and then tapped it to trigger the tie rod end to break free from the stiction.

[McSwine]

Go to your parts store and rent a pitman arm puller (like image 14). This is what I used on my tie-rod end, and I used the tuning fork to separate the ball joint..didn't care if it got tore up since it was going to be replaced anyway. Also, loosen the two bottom bolts on the ball joint before you undo the tie rod end.

[RDM]

I have this exact kit: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Front-Se...l/dp/B000FEDLAM but found it on Ebay for like $80. Since I do a ton of service work on my own cars, friends, and family members it has become invaluable to have around. Most auto parts stores will rent a similar kit for pretty cheap if you don't think you'll ever use it much.