mark lang Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Hi, I'm getting CEL 0325. I'd like to verify wiring before I dig in to this. Can anyone tell me the location of the wires for the Knock Sensor 1 and 2 as they enter the ECM? this is for a '95 es300. thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexlogic Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hi,I'm getting CEL 0325. I'd like to verify wiring before I dig in to this. Can anyone tell me the location of the wires for the Knock Sensor 1 and 2 as they enter the ECM? this is for a '95 es300. thanks Mark I just got done replacing two Knock Sensors 3 weeks ago. it took me 9 hours. I replaced # 1, 3, 4, 5. the wiring harness were okay. Parts you are going to need: 1. Knock sensor 2. Knock sensor wiring harness 3. Intake gaskets 4. By-pass hose 5. Antifreeze Lexus quoted me a price of $224.00 per sensor. (The car has 2 sensors, if you’re going to go through the trouble of changing them, change them both!) RockAuto.com STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # KS81 $134 ea After several hours of bothering the hell out of the parts guy at Lexus he told me that the part number for the knock sensor I needed was 896145-12040. I ordered the intake gasket kit from rockauto.com for $56.79 this was a FEL-PRO part number MS92766 it came with all 3 gaskets. Also replace PCV STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # V313T $3.16 and rubber grommet STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # GV21 $2.72 The wiring harness and by-pass hose from Lexus because I didn't have the energy to go through the whole mess again. They charged me $42.00 for the harness and $18.00 for the hose. The Toyota part number for the wiring harness is 82219-07010 and the Toyota part number for the by-pass hose is 16261-20010. It took me 9 hours to change the knock sensors. It is not an easy job. Drain the coolant first. Then I removed the hood off the car. Then you have to remove the whole top half of the engine. My best advice for anyone that’s going to tackle this project is to get a small 1/4" ratchet with a swivel head. I used this to get to the intake bracket mount bolts (2), as well as the ground bolt and fuel line bracket bolt that are located behind the intake, there’s not much room back there but this saved me tons of time. You might as well change the spark plugs cause they are breeze to change with half the engine missing. Fuel injector rail stays with the intake manifold not to be separated. Picture Knock Sensor ES300 http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff119/j...engineblock.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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