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Found 10 results

  1. When Park Assist is on in my GS, it is incorrectly sensing something when I put the car in reverse. Took it in to the dealer, and diagnosis was a failed sensor. Quote to repair is $500 for parts and service. Technician told me they need to pull the whole bumper off to repair this... Seems pretty steep to me... anyone have any similar issue or experience with this? The car is no longer under warranty....
  2. My elderly mother bought a brand new Lexus 350 about 10 years ago. It has only 41k miles on it. The airbag sensor is broken and Lexus no longer makes the part. They told us (in writing) that the vehicle is not safe to drive. They searched for a part and came up dry. They said I could get it fixed by a 3rd party but when I tried, nobody will touch it because of liability. Lexus is not willing to fix it with a used part. I would expect Lexus to make this right - provide another vehicle or some sort of compensation, but I was told because the car is no longer under warranty they will not. Really? isn't this Lexus we're talking about? I would expect them to stand behind their name. Perhaps their reputation is not reflective of who they truly are as a company. Has anybody else experienced something like this?
  3. Hello all, I am a new owner of a 94 Lexus ls400. I bought the car from my brother about a week ago and he says it ran well for him. He recently changed the O2 sensors which cleared a CEL that he had. However he wasn't driving it much and it had been sitting for awhile. When I got it and drove it home it seemed to run fine. But about 2 days later I have the issue where if I step on the accelerator any more than a little less than half it will stutter or just flatline the engine to about 1000 rpm. I've been reading through some of the forums on this site and seen people talk about the problems with the ECU capacitors so that was the first thing I pulled. It had looked like someone had gone through that process before because some of the clips in the glovebox were already missing and the ECU looked brand new inside with no sign of leaking caps etc. Then I moved onto replacing the fuel filter which did look really rusted and old but that also did not help. So now I am moving onto the tps sensor. At my local AutoZone the cheapest one is about $100. But I have seen some online for as cheap as $12 up to about $30. So my main question is there really much of a difference between these. Some of the cheaper ones seem to still get good reviews being put onto other vehicles that they'd fit (Toyotas Volvo's etc.) Also if anyone has any other insight on what causes this issue would be great. The vehicle has 245k miles and runs perfectly otherwise as long as I'm light on the throttle. Sometimes I will get a quick flash of the Trac off light when this happens. Not always so I don't know if it's just coincidental or not. Thanks in advance for any input anyone has. Eric
  4. Hello. We just picked up this es300 in very good condition. We took a trip and during that trip, the overdrive stopped working. We made it home in limp mode, I disconnected the battery, reconnected, and the car has been driving fine for a few days now. Checked at O'Reilly's and there is no code for the knock sensors, which is apparently often the problem when the car won't shift into 4th gear. But, the no-overdrive problem seems to occur at times when the coolant sensor, engine sensor, thermostat, etc., isn't performing/reading correctly. So, I figured I should address the codes I'm getting now and see if the no-overdrive problem returns (yes, someone removed the check engine light so these didn't pop up when we bought it): P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control. After extensive reading, it seems that this code hardly ever occurs by itself and often resolves itself when you resolve another issue. So, I think we should wait on this and address the others first. P1130 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1. B1S1, I believe, is behind the engine near the firewall. After reading a lot online, I think that if the B2S1 is replaced, this code might go away P1153 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. This is the sensor right up front. I'm thinking that changing this might fix the other codes as well. Or, this is the best place to start, I'm guessing. P1155 - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1. Again B2S1, the one in the front of the car that's easy to get to. So, I guess I could buzz it over to my dad's house for him to check electrical continuity; or to figure out if the sensor's heater is working properly. However, I'm thinking simply replacing the sensor might be the best bet. If I do change this sensor (B2S1), what is the Toyota part number? And, I've heard to not use off-brand parts for knock sensors, but since this is not a knock sensor, can I buy something locally at AutoZone that's readily available and comes with a warranty? I'll probably do as you guys recommend. Much appreciated!!
  5. LS Fan

    Possible Bad Gauge

    So I have a 1998 LS400 with 170,000 miles on it. It has been babied and garaged. It is in fantastic shape. One morning this week I started the car, drove about a mile and noticed that the temperature gauge was just under the red line. It normally hangs out just under the halfway mark. I tuned around and drove home as not wanting to run it too hot. Here's what i checked on to determine the issue. Water pump, timing belt, thermostat, all radiator hoses and new coolant was just done 12,000 miles ago. This check out normal. Then I thought that it might be the sensor/sending unit indicating the wrong temperature to display on the gauge. I was going to just buy a new one and change it out, but then I thought of hooking up my OBDII scan tool to check the engine temperature. Sure enough the engine temperature read normal through the real-time scan tool. Here's my logic. If the scan tool shows the correct temperature as read from the ecm computer, it must be getting the temperature sent to it from the sensor correctly which means that there isn't a reason to change out the temperature sensor as a possible fix. I believe that I can rule it out. I think that only leaves me the instrument gauge itself that could be the culprit in this issue. Also, I think that this is the part I need. CLICK-HERE If this is the issue, would it be better to just buy the gauge and change it out or send the instrument cluster in somewhere to be rebuilt? Also, occasionally the tach sticks at zero so a good slap on the top of the dashboard above the gauge fixes it. Maybe a rebuild of the instrument cluster would fix this too. Please help me figure out this dilemma. I try to keep everything on the car working at 100% so even if the car isn't running hot, I want the gauge to report the correct temperature.
  6. Hi all. Need a little help. It died on me last week. The flashy lights blinked a code 12, meaning a no rpm signal. Suggesting a Crank Sensor replacement. I am trying to get it out, its on the underside. Problem is, it came up about 1 mm, then stopped and things broke off. I am guessing I am not the first one having problems getting a 25 year old sensor out. Is there a way to get it out by drilling ? Does the hole have a bottom ? If not, when I drill it out, will stuff go in the hole and cause problems ? Thanks. Walter
  7. Well I've been reading threads about similar problems however I haven't come across transmission "slips" in cold weather only. The performance issue I encounter seems to only occur when the temp is about 40 and below. During summer months it rarely/doesn't occur. At one point, I had read that there is a sensor that, when temps are low, the sensor triggers the transmission to hold gears to a higher rpm to help warm the engine to operating temp. Not sure if this is part of the speed sensor's job or if it's different sensor. So here's the problem, and I have noted that this happens around reaching operating temp, and after the engine is warm, it won't happen. I'll be driving and the engine will rev like in neutral. It's like the trans disengages and it is not gear or speed dependent. i can be cruising slowly in 2nd or rolling down the highway at 60. The trans drops out of gear then it seems to "search" for the right gear. I have found that letting off the gas and giving the car a chance to "decide" usually works, at slower speeds I will manually shift down to get it to engage. Any help is appreciated.
  8. Where is the crank sensor ?? I have a 93 gs300 with a 96 2jzge motor
  9. Hey all. I've been googling this issue for 2 days with no fix. I'm close to spending the money to get an rx330 service manual. My issue - Since last winter, the darn dual climate control will only put out heat on the driver's side vents on any warm temperature setting(above ambient), passenger side will only put out room temperature air. Cold A/C will come out of both sides just fine. AC diagnostics check says code 11, which I've read to be the temperature sensor circuit. I tested the sensor by the knee on the driver's side and resistance goes up and down with temperature, within ranges that I've seen for other thermistors--this one read 1.68 kohm last night. I checked the connector and read 3.5volts going to the sensor. Sprayed in contact cleaner and reconnected it. Still the same error. Are there two cabin temperature sensors in this car?? if so, where is the second one? It seems like there is a second sensor on the passenger side that thinks the cabin temp is high so it doesn't allow the air mix control to allow hot air through. My second theory is that the air mix control servos aren't working on the passenger side. I don't know what servo I was looking at but I could peek a servo moving up and down on the passenger side left knee area under the dash. it would move up and down as I changed temperatures. One last thing to note - i take it off dual climate control and the problem remains the same. My thinking is that the dual climate control off would mean it uses the one temperature sensor to control heat to both sides of the car.....
  10. Does any body know the part number for the accelerator pedal position sensor on the 2000 gs300 on Sewell? If so I need it soon please! I have recently discovered that you can get the same parts that the dealer charges an arm and a leg for for literally half of what they sell it to you for I'm just having trouble find it on Sewell need help soon please thanks all