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Help! I love this forum and used it to replace the driver's door lock for $5! This problem: I changed the transmission fluid and inspected/flushed the "strainer" (filter). When I put the pan back on with a new gasket I accidentally snapped off one of the 18 bolts that hold the pan on. It is the center, rear most bolt and, so far, the pan isn't leaking at all (only 1 week and 50 miles ago). My questions: 1) If it doesn't leak should I ever worry about this broken bolt? 2) If it does start leaking later is replacing a bolt something I could do? I am fairly competent around a garage but have never done this. I don't have a tap set (if one is required), but don't mind getting one if that is required. 3) One more "out of the box" idea I've seen kicked around: would it work to use a metal "bridge" from one good bolt to the other across the broken bolt? Any expertise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! My Car: 2003 RX300 FWD with 60,000 miles.

I've been enjoying my new Lexus ES 350 - my first Lexus - for one week. I am intrigued by S Mode Driving but am finding very little information on it in the owner's manuals or elsewhere. I'm referring to the ability to indicate S1 through S6, not Sport Mode. What does S Mode Driving do? Why would a driver use it? Is it just for fun or does it have other purposes? Does using S Mode impact gas mileage? Can I damage my transmission if I use it incorrectly? What else do I need to know? Please share your knowledge or experiences with me. Or point me in the direction of other resources that can explain this more fully. Thanks, Dan

Got new from my Lexus dealer yesterday that my transmission on my 1994 LS 400 need to be replaced. Their cost was $6400 plus. Anyone had their transmission successfully replaced recently. I am located in Miramar/Pembroke Pines/Hollywood Florida area.

Is there an easy way to refill the transmission? I'm approaching 100k in my 2007 LS460, so I drained the transmission fluid & assumed it would be easy to refill (just like my GS400). Imagine my surprise when the socket wouldn't fit into the gap between the transmission case & some insulation to access the "refill plug". A long 24mm wrench finally did the trick, but what a pain! Any thoughts or tricks to share? I have the WS ATF fluid, but haven't ventured onto the next step.

so i just purchased a 2005 es330 and when i press the gas i have a little lag and it lags a little on left turns. i also have a 97 es300 and when i press the gas on that it almost puts me in the back seat it gets up so quick. but i did put a 98 es300 tranny in it about 2 years ago.i have been looking at different forums and most people say it is a computor problem. can anyone give me any insight or let me know the cost to fix this?. thanks ps... the user name comes from my 97 lexus is white and i just put a new hood on it thats black so i call it snoopy and my 05 lexus is white also so i call it phantom.haha

Hi all, I'm new to this forum and I'm kicking myself for not trying to find a community like this earlier. I have a 2000 RX300 with a weird shifting problem. If I take off VERY smoothly, everything shifts fine, up to high gear (4th?). Once I stop though, the car won't shift into the highest gear at highway speeds. However, I discovered that if I pull over, shut the car off completely for a few seconds (doesn't take long!) and restart, as long as I take off nice and smooth again, everything is fine, until I stop again. I think it's a computer issue, but I'm not a technician. Anyone else have this problem? If it's something a home wrencher can do I'm not afraid of saving a lot of money doing it myself. If it's a trans or computer problem though, well, we are well and truely screwed. Thanks!

Here I go with another good one lol ..... I recently puchased another Lex, this time a 1994 SC400 . When I first got the car, it drove fine . Then about a month ago, the check engine light came on . The DTC's # 25 & #28 indicated that it was running lean and that I have an 02 sensor problem ....Fast forward two(2) weeks, car is running fine, I go to the station and fill it up with gas; when I try to start it, it just turns over . I check everything and find out that I am not getting any spark . I pull the connection plug off of the right side coil to check for current . I had power, I check the other coil and had power there as well . So plugged the coils back in and the car started . It idled for about 2 mins and died . I had the car towed home, the next morning the car cranked up and ran just fine; for about 2 day's, and then did the same thing . I tried to retrieved some DTC's to help me fix the problem, but the check engine light wouldn't blink; and that's when I was given a clue . Whenever I tried to crank the the car, if the light would come on with the key, the car would run; but if it didn't come on, it wouldn't crank . I also noticed that when the light did come on, it would be weak, sorta flashing like it wasn't getting enough power ....That led me to checking my fuses and connection's . When I got to the underhood fuse box, I noticed that the fuel pump relay was warm, so I checked the circuit and found out the turn on wire was only getting about 4 volts . I ran a wire (ignition switched controlled) to supply 12 volts to the relay when the key was on . The car ran fine for two days, then did the no check engine light thing and wouldn't start .....Thinking that it was the ECM (since I couldn't go into diagnostic mode), I had the ECM rebuilt . When I got it back, the car craked up and ran just fine, but it idled erratcally . The RPM's would go up and down, from 1500 to 1000 . Other than that it drove fine with plenty of power . Then I noticed that sometime my RPM gauge and my MPH gauge wouldn't be working, then all of a sudden they would start to working again . I figured that the ECM must not have been built right, so I got another one, and I still have the same problem's; and now on top of that, my transmission isn't locking up . No let me rephase that, it is locking up, and then unlocking when driving . When driving at a steady rate of speed, you can feel it going in and out of lock up .... So far I have put in a new ECM, and a new fuel pump . I would really appreciate any help, feedback and guidance concerning this . I want to thank everyone in advance for your suggestions .

Hello LS owners. I have a 1992 LS. I'm planning to have my transmission main seals change. what are the part numbers for each of them? because i am not sure which one is it.. thank you.. :D

Im rebuilding a transmission and i took out all the pieces. i bought a rebuilding kit for my lexus ls400 1992, but, i dont know where every piece goes >.<...do anyone have a diagram that i can see? it doesn't have to be a guide it can just be a diagram of how the gears and seals go inside of the transmission please!

Hello Everyone! Today I am having an issue that I can not seem to search out any really good ideas for online or in the forums. 1994 LS400 When coming to a stop I am hearing a grinding/whirring noise coming from what I am guessing to be... the transmission/torque converter as I hear it coming from the area under the shifter / console. --------------------------- (I will be going to take some video / audio to post up to this soon) --------------------------- This noise is only prevalent when braking in the last 20 or so feet of braking unless you jam it REALLY hard i suppose (haven't tested it, but it did make some noise on the highway when someone almost cut me off)... . It is NOT as noticeable when braking in Neutral (it may also be the brakes are grinding a tad due to thin rotors and a pad swap without changing rotors, and that's why I am still hearing something and it's actually not there at all. but let's keep it simple) It's definitely very different sound and progressively worse being in drive, drive with o/d off, 2nd, and of course 1st being worst. - If I keep the transmission in first, or any gear, and coast down in speed against the motor's compression, I do not hear any noise, even in first from higher rpms and letting off. - if i apply the brakes at a standstill, and load the motor a bit, you hear a grrrrrrrrr coming from the same area not just a nice solid motor load sound ( again... t/c?), but it's not the exact same as the added grinding/whirring sound when braking. Acceleration makes no noise. Transmission shifts smoothly, there's power to the wheels, but she feels a bit old and sluggish off the line, definitely does not spin the wheels from a standstill. However she rips from 50km/h+ - even kicking down to 1st gear, or hold 1st up to 50, and then booting it, until she's really warmed up, and then she feels like she's fighting herself a bit or something and the power curve definitely falls off. ========================================================================= -- what ideas do you guys have as to what this grinding/whirring during braking sound might be? -does a dying t/c do this under braking? -does a transmission (hence why hearing it the most when holding 1st gear with the automatic shifter do this under braking? ---------------------------------------------------------------- any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks Everyone! Dan

My car is a 95 SC400 with about 137K on it. After reading a number of threads on here, I've notice people have a variety of ways of attacking that annoying surge at 1st gear that really kills your 0-60 time. What are the best ways of dealing with this problem that you have all found? The reason I'm asking is that my wife drives a 2003 GS300 Sport with the 2JZ-VVTI and she always kills me on the stoplight to stoplight drags. Mostly it's the danged surge that does me in. I've tried disconnecting the 4th Speed Sensor and I'm going to shim my accumulators in a week when I do a transmission service. Also, in about two weeks, I'm going to finish my exhaust mods by putting in a set of Magnaflow 14829's or 14832's. I've also heard that a Unichip solves the problem, but I don't want to buy one if it isn't true. Also, FYI, my other car mods are BFI, X-pipe and high flow bullet cats. Anyway, please tell me what your thoughts are?