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  1. These tires are a game changer for this rig and our cold alaska winters. Ive had them on about 18 months (about 2k miles) and i think im getting a pair for my truck next!
  2. So I have a 250K RX300 which is leaking (a bit) from the power steering pump. I'd like to get a decent power steering pump. Ive looked at Amazon, Ebay and a variety of "Auto" stores. Prices range from under $100 to over $300. Ive bought parts from all 3 "suppliers", so far everything has worked fine. I tend to prefer "Auto" stores, after all they only deal with cars. So any suggestions, should I only go Toyota or are there other makes to consider? New or rebuilt? There's no rush, the leak isnt major.
  3. I just R/R the headlights on my 1999 RX300. They are standard headlights. No HID. I see at least two each adjustment screws. Which one adjusts the low beams and which on adjusts the High Beam, the fog lights, etc. Which direction do I turn these screws for the up adjustment? FYI, I also R/R the door lock actuators on all four doors. I fixed the door control device in the Drivers side door. I used my 3-D printer to make the part that is under the rocker button for the door windows. It sits on a spring.
  4. i have a 1999 lexus rx300- only cold air on driver sided, luke worm on passager side. the heat servo motor is working. passenger side air seems to be getting a little warmer but driver side is very cold. Fan works great.
  5. So in the attached image you can see the list of dtcs I have on a 2000 rx 300 AWD I have tested coils and replaced spark plugs on 2-4-6, all should be in perfect shape. I have tested unplugging the coils I could easily access with the entire intake assembled, which seemed to not affect the idle, leading me to believe that perhaps those spark plugs in the back are no good. I am going to head back out now to work on getting to and replacing the 1-3-5 spark plugs, if I can manage. 1. With the intake and throttle body(s?) removed, is it worth any attempt to remove the o2 sensor from above? I tried from below several times, with PB blaster let to sit overnight, to no avail. 2. As I was taking off the intake filter lid, I could swear that one of the two "vacuum" hoses directly behind it, may have been unattached. I followed the one that is attached and it seems to lead to the Fuel Injector rail for 2-4-6. With this logic, would it make sense that the other tube leads to 1-3-5 injectors, and all this could have been from the vacuum leak causing those cylinders to run lean/misfire? 3. Is there anything else I should check while I have the throttle body's off (and cleaned up beautifully) like the MAF, etc? I do have a multimeter, but I have only tried using it a couple of times and am not 100% on which items to check for which values. 4. Is there anyone here with any insight on what values to check on my Code Scanner's "Live Data"? I found a great OBD2 scanner, but I don't know how to use these tools to verify the fix... My plan now is to replace the 1-3-5 spark plugs, reassemple the intake, verifying all connections are made and see how she runs... but I will work at the o2 sensor or anything else possible, while it's apart. Thank you if you read this! I am new to the forum, as I just purchased this car for my wife, so thanks in advance, if anyone hears this! Steve
  6. Hi guys I own a 2003 RX300 which never had given me any trouble so far. I had another driver telling me one day that I have no brake lights what so over. I thought it is just bulbs so I replaced the third light bulb and still no brake light. I did some search and discovered about the brake light module which located within the panel at trunk on the driver side as per this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wdEh4SugCw It says that I could try a jumper solution at 2:48 which I did. This is when things get interesting. After I tried this, the brake light did come on when I stepped on the brake but I lost other lights (turn indicators, reverse and rear lights). At the same time I also lost power windows and the heat. I tried soldering every component on the brake light module, thinking it might be bad connections but still I have the same problem (no heat, no power window, no rear lights except brake). The power windows make no sound what so ever, so my guess is there is no power flows through the system at all. Nothing also happened at the display when I pressed the climate control button. The display works as the radio and CD is on. My guess is this was caused by me jumping the connectors at the brake light module? I checked the fuses with multimeter on the left side of the steering wheel inside the car and they all show continuity. Not sure if they are other way to check the fuses or maybe there are other fuses I should check? I can't be driving this car at the moment without heat (it is -20 here) as well no lights are working at the moment. I appreciate very much any help I can get with this! Thanks!
  7. Retiring at 68 and thinking of selling my Honda Odyssey and getting a true Luxury car; a Lexius. Zeroing in on an older ES 350 or RX. Maybe even a Hybrid one. So, I ask you experienced Lexus owners, is this a bad Idea for a single woman who can’t fix her own car? And the closest Lexus shop is 2 hours away? I’d like to keep the price around 25,000 or less. Thank you for any insights, advice, etc Pam
  8. Hi, I have owned my 2000 Lexus rx300 since they came out, but I have never tried to do any kind of mechanical work on it. Just not that guy. Well, my alternator just died and a friend said that it was easy to replace. So....I disconnected the negative on battery, now trying to remove the electrical connections from alternator. One with a few small wires inside came off fairly easily, hope I fidn't greak it. The other I have no idea how to remove. I guess that the connector covers the electrical wire to the battery. Do I push or pull or pry it off? None of these sound like good ideas to me. I atttached a photo of it. Meanwhile I located and loosened the pivot bolt. Now I am debating how I am going to reach the other 2 bolts I beed to remove. I watched some videos but ghey did not provide enough detail for me. I would appreciate any help.
  9. My guess would be either the first gen rx300 or the most recent gen rx350 because they have the most ground clearance. Not sure how they all compare with locking diffs, gearing, wheel articulation, low end torque, etc since I only own the first gen. Second question: is the RX a lot worse off road than the LX and GX or are they close?
  10. It seems as though the actuator that moves the passenger's side mirror has become disconnected. Has anyone tried getting into one of these things? It isn't a critical function, but it is quite annoying to have to manually push it out after a carwash or something. It is a '99 if that matters. Thanks!
  11. I have a 2002 rx300 fwd, and I know I am late to the game, but like just about everyone that has posted here, I also had the same problem and (thanks to many of you) the same solution. I had the filter replaced, system drained, new ATF added and everything worked out great (especially saving the 5k on a new transmission). This was about 2000 miles ago (135k miles on the car). This past weekend I drove to DC from Pittsburgh and back with no problems what-so-ever, until I pulled onto my street and all of a sudden the car jerked and the rpms shot way up but the car didn't really move (I think it would go about 25pmh while at 5000rpms), like it did just before it quit completely and before I had the filter/fluid replaced. Thinking that maybe the filter was clogged again I replaced filter/fluid a second time. I should note that the fluid looked like it the day I put it in - still very red and hardly anything in the filter. Now here is the new issue - when you put the car into drive or reverse there is (what my mechanic calls) a delayed engagement. That is to say, after a few seconds the car will finally move. If you push too hard on the accelerator the car will jerk hard and then engage. If you are very easy on the accelerator, if doesn't jerk, but still takes time to engage. Once the car is moving, however, everything is seemingly great. I took it for a test drive on the highway, once I merged into traffic and had the car going about 35mpg it shifted very smoothly. Its just went it idles that it drops out of gear and then has the delayed engagement. My mechanic suggested that it might be the gear pump in the transmission itself, that is failing, and that it is not building up enough pressure when first put into D or R. Any thoughts or guidance here would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Does any one know what on earth this button is for?
  13. Hello I recently purchased an 01 RX 300 with 125K on the odo and in very nice shape. I have one issue which may be several 1.Power mirrors do not work 2.Rear wiper and washer do not work 3.My right rear window will spontaneously drop partially while driving. This happens spontaneously and to different degrees but seems to settle down after half an hour or so. Also there would seem to be a short in the master switch as tapping my knee along side the door will make this occur as I drive also My question: Could this all be attributed to the same cause? Grounds associated with the switch perhaps? Or am I looking at multiple issues here? Any help and suggestions would be appreciated
  14. Hi - I am new to this forum. I had a 2002 RX300 for 5 years, best car I've ever owned, just a joy to drive. My husband and I joked that all that we had to was strap in and "Stella" would take us there. I bought it at 60K miles and it was 171K when a 4pt buck interrupted our relationship. I have been looking for a month, (Craiglist, Autotrader.com, Cars.com daily) and I'm THIS sick of dealer d-bags. Does anyone know of an RX300 for sale? I'm looking for less than 150K miles w/ no mechanical issues. Cosmetic issues OK. Does anyone have any thoughts/ideas/other sites to check? Thanks for any assistance you can give. I live in CO but would travel for the right car.
  15. Anyone experienced this problem or know how to fix it? My 2000 RX300 stock Pioneer stereo works with the CD player but there is no sound with either the FM/AM radio or the tape player. You can select Tape or radio but there is no volume regardless of what it says on display. I don't think it would be an amp issue since CDs play fine. I've been thinking about pulling out the stereo unit and resoldering everything but before I do I was hoping for some advice on what it might be and/or diagrams. I've checked and replaced the fuses (they weren't blown) Thanks!
  16. I need help diagnosing what the actual culprit of the p0420 that threw up few days ago. I ran my torgue scan tool and I am adding screenshots for better understand. I am not able to understand the various test. I need some help here. Pic1 is the mod 6 test, pic2 is the freeze frame of the cel, pic 3 is the wave form of 02 sensor bank1 sensor 2 and the last 2 pictures are the waveform of the a/f sensors.
  17. Hi, I'm new to this forum!! I recently brought in my car for an oil change and was informed that I should replace the center drive shaft joint because of failure and to replace the front diff. pinon seal because it is leaking. The charges are a bit hefty and was wondering if theres any alternative to bringing it to a different shop rather than the Lexus dealership. Also, the car tends to vibrate when I drive around 70-80mph and it squeaks when I accelerate and when I drive slowly (backing out the drive-way, etc.) Could this be related to the center drive shaft? Thank you for the help!
  18. Bought this 1999 Lexus RX300 AWD in really good condition. Hope to add rear spoiler and tint back windows dark. Maybe add a body kit eventually. Needs a couple things fixed like the power antenna and a small rust spot on passenger tire. Body is in great condition for age and Michigan miles. It drives and runs really good.
  19. I'm wondering if any of the Toyota suv's from a similar year have the chassis as my 99 rx300 so I could install a lift kit
  20. So my trunk was really full and I tried opening my trunk today. Sometimes when it is full, I've had to use a lot of force. This time, something snapped and I no longer felt resistance when pulling the trunk latch. I removed the panels from the inside and took a look at the opening mechanism. The cable is still intact and i discovered how to open the trunk from the inside. However, there is no connection from the latch to the rest of the locking mechanism. When I used force, there was a part that broke. The first picture shows the part that is broken. The black rubber and plastic parts used to be one part. The elongated plastic part used to be inside the car, while the black plastic part used to be behind the latch on the outside of the car. The square hole near my thumb behind the latch is where the rubber used to sit. The last picture shows where the elongated black plastic part used to connect to. The last picture's orientation is looking up. The black plastic part used to lift the silver metal part extending the wire. The wire would then pull the golden part in the third picture to open the trunk. The fourth picture shows an overall picture. If you look carefully at the fourth picture, there is a black cable that runs down the cavity in the center of the trunk door. That is the same cable that pulls the golden part of the mechanism, opening the door. Essentially, the mechanism is no longer connected due to the broken part. The latch is not connected to the first part of the mechanism and thus, the second part of the mechanism is not working and I cannot open my door from the outside. Anyone know where I can get a replacement part and whether I can install it without opening any screws?
  21. Hello, My Rx300 (120K miles) has been leaking oil(?) for a while. I have been reading posts in the forum and I guess it is the rear seal? Last time I got my oil changed they used synthetic oil and I heard that oil is more likely to leak if there are any problems with the seals (it was not leaking before). Should I go back to regular oil next time to see what happens? Sorry for the crappy pictures and thank you beforehand
  22. 2003 RX300. Got the trouble code for the Heated O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2). Lexuspartsnow.com says I need part number 89465-49075 http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-sensor-oxygen~89465-49075.html I believe them so I bought the same exact part from Amazon even though their site says it doesn't fit, thinking the Lexus site will know better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTJ3TZA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Got it installed fine and cleared the codes but the code keeps coming up every time I clear it. Did I just waste $140? Why would one site list it as fitting and the other doesn't? Could it potentially be another issue?
  23. Hi fellow Lexus enthusiasts. You can skip down to the bold text if you do not want to read the background of my post :whistles: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I recently drove my 2001 RX300, which I had acquired last October, on a road trip between Chicago, IL and Toronto, Canada between July 16 and July 25. The only maintenance-related issue that had to be taken care of, an oil change, was completed. I took the car to my local mechanic a couple of weeks before we left and I had him test-drive for a few blocks. He stated, based on his observations, that the car ran well and could be trusted to make it to Toronto and back in one piece. With about 137,000 miles, this car ran like a top with no loss of power, no transmission jerking, and got roughly 19-20 mpg the entire way with the a/c running at full blast. Driving around Toronto, my mpg went down, but the performance stayed just as well as it had been along the highway. However, a few days after we got to Toronto safely, I was exiting the highway (the famous Highway of Heroes) and, coming to a stop at the end of the downward-sloped ramp, the Oil Pressure light came on for roughly one second and then went out. Initially, I attributed the light to the steepness of the ramp, but I was disconcerted enough to go back out to the car the next day in the morning with a paper towel and pull the dipstick. I popped the hood, drew the dipstick, held it level to my eye, and my jaw nearly dropped. Yep. The dipstick was as dry as the Grand Canyon, with not even a single drop on it That same day, I picked up a jug of Mobil 5W-30 synthetic at a local auto store and added right up to the top mark on the dipstick (thank god I had a funnel with me). I dreaded that I would have to repeat the process when I got back to Chicago; when I did so (the dipstick was dry again when we got back), I got the same weight, only as mineral, and only added enough to bring the oil level near halfway between the two marks. Again, there were zero issues related to performance along the way back, and it still amazes me that this is possible. Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to check the oil level at any stopping point along the way in either direction, so I have no clue what the burn rate is . Here in Chicago, the car often sits for days at a time in the same spot on the street if it's not winter, as I prefer to ride my bike for the fuel economy B). I would have noticed fresh oil spots under my car if there was a leak, and (with the exception of a FEW start ups) there is no smoke coming from the tailpipe either in city or on the highway. To be specific, there is a small amount of bluish smoke upon startup, but ONLY once in a while - it does not happen each and every time the car is started. Yesterday, I went back to the same mechanic to tell him about this little problem. He replied that, as there is no leakage, the engine is burning up oil in small quantity, which was not obvious until my trip. I was advised by him to switch to a heavier oil at the next change to reduce the likelihood of it getting burnt. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- A couple of questions to you, for those of you currently running oils heavier than 5W-30 in the RX300: how heavy have you gone without appreciable decline in performance? How heavy is it possible to run and still be able to operate the vehicle in the winter? (keeping in mind that Chicago winters, although not as cold as the Arctic, are certainly powerful) And lastly, is warm-up time affected badly by a heavier oil (both in summer and winter)? Any pointers that I can get are highly appreciated. ^_^
  24. I obviously have a low mileage RX300 since it's a 2003. I'm the second owner having bought it certified from a Lexus dealership back in 2006. I recently moved and found an independent shop with fantastic reviews that specializes in Japanese cars. They've quoted $950 for the 90k service including changing the timing belt. I'm definitely doing the timing belt because mine is 5 or 6 years older than most who were doing their 90k service on this forum. I don't want to risk major engine damage and the car is still in great shape. Aside from regular oil checks (use synthetic oil BTW), my only maintenance costs in nearly 10 years have been exhaust related, ball joints & sway bars, tires, brake pads and a battery. Not sure if it's been a major contributing factor but I'm someone who lets the engine warm up in every season - especially winter - so maybe that's helped reduce engine damage. My question is if I plan to keep the car for another several years should I replace the water pump and thermostat too as a preventative measure and since my car is 12 years old and I probably wont put more than 5 to 8k miles on the car per year. Are there other items you would consider too?
  25. Hello All, So I have been looking at replacing ignition coils on my 2002 Lexus RX300. Found a few places including my local Lexus dealer who wanted $110 each. The Lexus Dealer part is made by Denso. The links below found parts for various amounts. Anybody have any excperience with buying ignitoin coils from other manufacturers: 1) Denso Sprk Plugs from Ebay: $65.95 each. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-673-1301-Direct-Ignition-Coil-/251256248602?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2002|Model%3ARX300&hash=item3a800a191a&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp 2) Genesis Auto Parts is the store and Brand Name is :Silla: It is after Market Part and is for $16.49 each. However shipping for 6 of these is $48... They ship these indvidually. Go figure... 3) Denso spark Plugs from Local Lexus Dealer: $110 each. Any suggestions or experience my fellow Lexus Users may have would be greatly appreciated. -RX300inCalifornia
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