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Found 17 results

  1. I just purchased an off lease IS350 with 12,000 miles on the odometer and have started to have some strange problems with it. First, two days ago the car shut off (dash lights and all) for a split second and then sprung back to life with no apparent reason. No check engine light, nothing to indicate a problem. I was driving about 40 with the A/C on...nothing to strenuous for the IS350. Also it was about 85 degrees Saturday I started having even more strange problems, on my way home from work same thing happened again, everything cut out briefly and came back on. Shortly after this occured I realized the clock had reset itself, lost my Sirius radio presets, and when I arrived at home only the driver's side window would roll up. I eventually found that the switches on the individual windows worked just fine. I got of the vehicle and hit the lock button, no beep, sounded like the doors locked though, however the driver door had not locked. The lock would not operate with the switch or remote either, so I manually locked it. Later I walked up to the car and grabbed the door handle and it unlocked all of the doors besides the drivers door and beeped like six or seven times. The car also started and stalled immediately stalled once before I purchased the car, but restarted just fine so I didn't think anything of it. That was the only time it stalled immediately after start up(dash lights and accessories stayed on that time). Just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem to mine. I'm becoming fearful of driving the car and am afraid the problem will not reproduce itself for the dealer(besides the door lock not working). Also, any idea how might these random problems be related? The car is 100% stock and in excellent condition, it all just seems out of character for a Lexus. This is my fifth Lexus and before this vehicle I've had nothing but the best experiences.
  2. Fixed. Found the following video that explains the process. To reset the power windows it is necessary to put the windows part-way down using the switches on the door for each window. Then pull each switch upward and hold for three to five seconds AFTER the window has closed. This re-sets the windows. How To Re-Calibrate 2nd Generation Lexus RX Windows Quickly (Lexus RX330, RX350, RX400H etc.) - YouTube
  3. 2004 doesn't have bluetooth interface.You might need to disconnect the minus cable from the battery terminal wait a minute and reconnect it back. Than open/close each door window by their switch to activate main, driver side switches. At this time all the systems will reset and you will see if problems still or gone. Navigation is not gonna show you anything before you insert the disc. It doesn't have an internal memory. If after reset all problems still exist let him fix them or go down with the price.
  4. Here's a number of solutions. One may work. https://us.lexusownersclub.com/search/?q=reset window switches&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=and
  5. [ SOLVED ] this did not work for me. here is my original problem.. "1997 Lexus es300. Remote stopped working to lock and unlock doors. Panic and trunk still work fine. With key in the ignition, If doors are all closed, only lock works from the electric switches. If a door is open, only unlock works from electric switches. If I remove the key from the ignition, only lock works. Remote confirms current state. Meaning if the doors are locked, pressing the remote lock button results in a click from the receiver, but unlock does nothing. If the doors are unlocked, or open, pressing the remote unlock button results in 2 clicks from the receiver, but the lock button does nothing" Now, to add insult to injury, I was told to test the alarm system. I rolled down the drivers side window, closed all doors, waited for the alarm to set, then reached inside and unlocked the door. This set off the alarm and the remote wouldnt shut it off so I put the key in and turned it to acc. This shut off the alarm but locked out the starter. There is no indication of a prob except it will not start. Nothing from the security light. Ive locked and unlocked both front doors with the key but it wont reset the system. I dont think disconnecting the batt would help since that would make it too easy to steal the car. Anyone have any suggestions? not sure if it could be related, but the key works perfectly in the passenger door, but in the drivers door it will not imediatly work. It has to be jiggled around quite a bit to work, then it operates fine until you remove it. Could the security sys be trying to lock out the key? The key is the factory master key and has never had issues before.
  6. Most likely you only need to perform a window reset - follow the instructions in this video - takes about 15 seconds. Most of the time, it's caused when you disconnect or replace your battery. My wife's '09 RX350 was only a "winter" vehicle for its first few years in service, so we disconnected the battery from eary Spring into late Fall and experienced this same problem. If I recall correctly, it's even discussed in the owners manual: https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=Lexus+RX350+rear+window+switches+not+functioning&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-002
  7. Gentlemen, Here's what I found after a web search, from 3 different sources: To reset the windows : Go to the local switch at each window (not from the driver's door) and manually run the window full down then full up, and hold the switch in the up position for a count of three. This must be done at each door, as each window is individually manually reset by doing this. The windows will then operate automatically from both the local switch on each door, and the remote switches on the driver's door. Obviously, the driver's window is reset in the same manner. Good Luck!
  8. Look in your owner's manual for the instructions on resetting the window switches. If you've disconnected or run down your battery you will need to do this. You will also likely have to reset your sunroof switch as well if it doesn't open/close with the one touch, or if you find it doesn't close precisely by itself and you have to fiddle with the switch to get a good seal. If you don't have an owner's manual, you can see the online version at www.lexus.com There is no need to take your car apart, it's an easy fix. I could tell you how to do it, but there's lots of good info in the owner's manual and it should be required reading for all owners.
  9. Hi All Re 2005 GS430 Power Windows. First time anything has gone wrong with this car!! I'm in Australia and today is hot in Melbourne! I used the remote key fob to open all windows before getting into the car. All fine, But the drivers door window switches would only close the driver door. The other switches were dead. I can only open and close the other three windows by putting the key in the drivers door lock. (Or open all of them via the fob) I searched both this and the Aussie forums for advice on resetting the windows / body computer. Eg half open the driver window, then raise and hold for 6 seconds. Then do same with sequentially the front passenger, then rears. No luck. Another post said hold the driver window up for 12 seconds. That screwed up the calibration of the same window and didnt fix the others! (A full up and down via the key fixed the drivers window in this case) Any ideas on the right approach welcomed! Is it a window reset? Or a full body computer reset? Cheers One day later.......Hmmm I repeated the 'wind down half way, go up and hold 6 seconds. It worked this time....' Good!
  10. Hi Guys!! :) I hope you're having a great day!! Can you believe it? I still have my 1993 LS400. Trouble is - she's not doing to well. It all started a few weeks ago as I was driving away from a friends house. The moment I pressed on the brake pedal the headlights dimmed to nothing and electrical power to everything was cut off. [To the point where the clock would reset to 1:00] The engine would have stalled [The RPM's dropping to around 200 or so] if were not for the fact that I immediately took my foot off the brake, shifted into neutral and pressed half way down on the gas pedal. The plan worked. The engine revved up and the lights became bright again. But every time I braked after that - the same thing happened. I was on a dark, winding road [About 2 AM] where I would normally have to use the brakes a lot - so I downshifted to 2nd gear and tried to keep the speed up to around 40 km/h or so. [25 mph] After about 3 minutes - I had to use the brakes again. But this time - everything was fine. The lights stayed bright and the engine rpm's didn't drop. There was no threat of stalling. And it stayed that way all the way home - and for the next a couple of weeks. Then it happed again just as I was turning onto the street where my brother lives. It was fine up to that point but all of a sudden - the moment I pressed on the brake pedal - the car stalled. [it took me by surprise] I quickly shifted into neutral and started the car. I braked again - it stalled again. Fortunately I was only about 200 feet away from where I wanted to park - so I started and stalled my way to the front of my brother's home! I tried to start the car a few hours later - and the same thing happened. [Although this time the car was parked and IN 'Park'] As soon as I pressed on the brakes - the engine died. So that was that. I had no choice but to leave the car there. A couple of days later I tried it again. This time - other than hearing something that sounded a bit like a 'short' - nothing happen. It was dead as a doornail. So I disconnected the negative battery terminal cable and walked away. A week later I called BCAA [AAA] and had them tow it back to my house. A few days after that - on October 4th, 2010 - I reconnected the battery cable and took note of the fact that the dome light was bright. But as soon as I tried to start the engine - I heard that 'short' sound again - and everything was dead. [including ALL interior lights] So I got curious and wiggled the battery cable. As soon as I did - the dome light came back on. And this time - the car started. And it kept running. [With a little help from the gas pedal] So after a couple of minutes - I eased up on the gas pedal and noticed that the idle speed was dropping fast - hovering around 200 or so. But it didn't stall. So I revved it up some more. I then tried the headlights - fine. I even pressed on the brake pedal - fine. The idol was low and irratic - but it didn't stall. No matter what I did with the brakes or power window switches or anything else - there was no threat of the engine stopping. All lights were bright. I'm still not willing to drive it - because I need to know what the problem is. Any ideas? I am quite seriously hoping that it is not what I have been fearing - an alternator being destroyed by a leaking power steering pump. [The PS pump was replaced about 4 years ago] And I say that because if it is - according to my local Lexus dealer - those two parts - put labour - plus HST tax - are just under $3,000. [$2,840 to be exact] The entire car isn't worth much more than that. Some websites have mentioned an IAC or a brake booster as a possible cause. I'm hoping it just needs a new battery cable. [And a good wash! lol] Any help would be very much appreciated. THANKS Craig!! :)
  11. Type of replacement bulb won't be a problem unless you replaced them with LED bulbs, as these use less current and will trigger the light to come on still. Any brand regular halogen bulb should fix the problem. The fact that the dash warning light only triggers when you flip the parking light switch bothers me. Normally, it should be on even if your lights are OFF (if one of them was blown out i mean). Is this how the warning light operated before you replaced all the bulbs? Would it only come on when you put the parking lights on? Or was the warning light on even if everything was off? Stupid question, but did you check the 3rd brake light bulb(s) ? The one in the rear window i mean... Because that could trigger the warning light too. If not though, i would try to reset the light. Unplug the cars battery, and turn on the ignition (well, pretend to). This will drain any and all memory from the car and "reset" everything. And as for the ECT switch, i think it's supposed to be illuminated. Those switches have a tiny little bulb built into the switch box. If you can take the panels out and access the switch you can try to replace it. But it's not the type of bulb you can get at autozone- it's got a little green cap, you'd need to get that from Lexus as matching the green is very impossible (tried it...).
  12. Hello Doug, I have the same problem. I spent a lot of time trying to get at the motor and it ended up I didn't have to. I was able to "hot wire" and cross the window wires from the back of the passenger front switch connector and when I activated the switch the window went back up. Basically the two motor wires come up to the connector on the back of the switch, so if you put 12 volts on the motor wires directly the motor will turn. Reverse the polarity of the wires and the motor goes in the opposite direction. I didn't have to take the door apart at all - but I figured all this out after I did take it apart. I used wires with small alligator clips and I was able to get on the pins of the connectors and when I activated the switch the window went up. This was a temporary solution, but the window is up. The passenger switch on my car would only output voltage to make the window go down. When I pull up on the switch I get zero voltage, so the window would not go back up. Because the driver front window was also starting to give me a problem (didn't want to come up), I thought that the driver switch module was the main problem. I bought a new driver switch module on Ebay but that didn't solve the passenger window problem, so now I just bought the passenger switch module on Ebay. The driver side window seems fine now. I now have the passenger switch disconnected so the window stays up until I fix it. Both front windows were flaky for a while, but the passenger window went down one day and would not come back up. The passenger switch was continuously outputting a voltage to the motor - basically telling it to go down. The motor was hot and it should never get hot. That's when I realized that the switch was constantly on and I pulled the connector - and from that I realized that if I reversed the wires the window would go up. Again after it went up I pulled the connector and that's where I am at now. What seems to complicate this mess is the pinch protection circuit. There is a reset procedure in the manual (I don't have a manual so I found crude instructions for the procedure on-line) but after I did the procedure the widow worked great for about 4 up and down cycles, and then the window went down on it's own and stayed there. I assumed it's the pinch circuit that is confused. That's when I took the door apart. I don't know enough about the pinch protection circuit - so I figured I would replace the two front modules and hope that fixes it. The driver switch had a broken spring but that was just a mechanical thing. I get the passenger module in a few days and I hope it works! Hope this helps some. Look at the manual at the reset procedure - maybe it will work for you, but I believe the window has to work (it needs to go up) for you to do the procedure.... It's all very frustrating. I have 166K miles on the car, and I usually drive with the windows open (I'm in Florida) so I use the switches all the time. I figured they are shot. Rich
  13. I heard this before. Is there any validity to that practice? Sure there is, especially if you reset the ECU prior to making that drive. I need help with this. Can you please elaborate? :) Well in the first place we used to blow the carbon etc out of motors by driving at high speeds. Since that isn't all that safe etc you can do the same thing by gearing down and running somewhat high RPM without having to drive 100 plus mph. I think that even with high tech engines and good gas that over time there is some buidup that can be somewhat cleared this way. For instance if a car is driven slow and idled a lot like a taxi, the motor is going to get crud built up. As for the ECU. When you reset it, it goes to new car default and leans how you drive. So if you drive a little hard once in awhile it's going to learn that. There have been tests on dyno of normal driven car power and then reset ECU and drive fast power and there is a significant difference. How do you reset the ECU? Disconnect the negative (black wire) battery terminal for 10 minutes. You'll have to reset your window switches by running each window all the way down and back up after that.
  14. G'Day, Just purchased a 2004 RX330 and it doesn't have the tonneau cover. Questions: 1- with a black leather interior but grey cloth roof what colour is the tonneau cover supposed to be? 2- Does anyone have repair service manuals for this vehicle? cost? 3- Is there a manual that tells how to do the programming/reset programming of the electronics?...for instance, my L rear window does not operate from the driver's control switches but it works from it's own switch. cost?
  15. The door open/closed switch is part of the door latch, inside the door. Check to see if the switches for the lock and window operate on the door. If they do not, I would go to checking fuses for the door control module. Each door has such a module. The fuses concerned are located in the passenger side footwell, under the dash. P RR Door 20A & P FR Door 20A If the fuses are good and the buttons function on the door there are two possibilities. The door latch switch has failed and you need a new latch. This is a common part. My 1998 has had 3 of the 4 replaced thus far. Otherwise, you may have damaged the door control module, but it is less likely. A simple disconnection of the main battery for a few minutes may reset it.
  16. Thank you all for your concern, support, and help! My GSh is now 110% functional now (the extra 10% is for the added DVD bypass functionality). :D Here's what followed my initial panicked moments. After performing the procedure somehow the 12V battery got totally discharged, hence the car wouldn't start (horn and lights wouldn't work, etc). It remains a mystery why it happened. I had a friend (with a Prius) do a hybrid-to-hybrid smooch (electrical jump) and voila!, the car started. This is when I found that the driver's window console no longer functioned and that the DVD-bypass hack seemingly didn't work (phone, mp3 info, and DVD screens all were blanked out while in motion as before). I then decided to try "rebooting" my car by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for about five minutes. Following this, Presto! all the previously-blanked-out screens are now available. The window switches still didn't work, but thanks to GS4Fun's post, I reset the windows and all is back to as it was. Thanks a ton, all. I know I didn't need to mess with my perfectly good $60K car, but it's fun (despite a few harrowing moments). :)
  17. The Lexus climate control has several design flaws originating from the very beginning in 89. Toyota and Lexus uses a design by NipponDenso as does most asian manufacturers. Of more recent vintage Denso USA, a subsiderary of NIpponDenso has been bringing those same flaws into the US market. First, they apparenty have no realization of what constitutes human comfort in cooler or colder weather conditions. Our bodies are greatly influenced by radiant heating effects, or really, lack thereof, in wintertime conditions. The COLD outside wintertime surrounding landscape can have a very chilling effect on our bodies, especially at night. At the same time Denso seems to be very proud of an asspect of their design that contributes heavily to your discomfort in the wintertime. Denso claims a uniqueness to their climate control design in that it "biases" the system to aways provide fresh airflow to the upper areas of the passenger cabin while providing recirculating airflow nearer your feet or below the "beltline. According to Denso once the overall cabin temperature has risen to very near the temperature setpoint, say 72F, the upper level airflow will be as much as 20F below the setpoint while the lower airflow will be warm enough to make up the difference. Their primary argument for this uniqueness seems to be that it tends to help keep the windshield and windows free of condensation. Somehow they seemed to have justified this position by claiming that we are more comfortable with this layered airflow model. And speaking of windshield condensation therein is the most astounding and hazardosu flaw in the design. With the advent of the use of the new lower efficiency refrigerant in the early ninties the A/C evaporator had to be made a lot more complex in order to have sufficient cooling cooling capability in AZ at 100F on a really hot bright sunny day. When you turn off the A/C at any time and for any reason, there will always be a thin film of moisture on its surface, thin enough that will NOT drain away. In the southern area of the US that often leads to the formation of mould and mildew, that horrid dirty gym socks smell. In the more northern areas of the US, or in the wintertime, its that very same moisture that leads to sudden early morning fogging over of the windshield. Or actually, anytime the A/C is cycled off and that thin film of moisture begins to evaporate into the incoming airstream. The whole windshield fogging problem is exaserbated greatly by the fact that Denso seemingly hasn't a clue as to what is needed to quickly clear a fogged over windshield and/or keep the windshield cleart of fogging. First, at the same time the system switches modes from heating, footwell airflow predominantly, to cooling mode (the more to discomfort YOU!), mixed outlet airflow, foot and panel (automatic function as the cabin temperature rises to setpoint), and then to panel outlets only, IT STOPS ALL WARMING AIRFLOW to the windshield. A windshield t hat will now be growing colder by the moment due to 60MPH COLD airflow impinging on the exterior surfrace. Additionally, the Denso design relies EXCLUSIVELY on the ability of the A/C to dehumidify the incoming airflow to clear the windshield of condensation when that time arrives. That's the reason your A/C continues to operate automatically even below your need of the use of it for cooling purposes. When, or if, you activate the windshield defrost/defog/demist function of your Toyota or Lexus climate control system you will instantly get airflow to the windshield that is approximately 20F below the setpoint level. Airflow that may, or may NOT, have been dehumidified by the A/C. The efficiency of the A/C for dehumdifying the incoming airflow is very much dependent on the relative humidity of the INCOMING outside airflow. Below about 45F it is unusual for the humdity to be high enough for the A/C to be effective for this purpose. As the outside temperature continues to decline the ability of the A/C to accomplish any dehumidification at all becomes even less probable. Until at about 35F OAT the system itself will shut down the A/C system due to complete non-functionality belwo this temperature. One would think that the Denso engineers would be bright enough to know, recognize, that with the decling efficiency of the A/C for defogging nthe windshield matters of safety would dictate the sue of an alternative method. And there is a readily available aternative method, one that most drivers have relied upon virtually since the invention of the enclosed cabin. HEAT. But no, I have been told that the Denso (more likely a Lexus engineer OVER_RIDE) engineers decided that exceedingly warm, or even HOT, airflow to the windshield surface would be too horribly discomforting to the front seat passengers. So it really doesn't matter to Lexus if you are killed in the process of trying to steer a direction with your windshield thoroughly and completely fogged over. NOT a problem they concern themselves with. But, go back to the dealer and tell them you wish to have the system reset so the A/C does not operate unless you specifically wish. And at the same time have them disable the A/C "link" to the defrost/defog/demist mode. And by the way, the A/C will normally activate in the defrost/defog/demist mode without the indicator illuminating. Without the A/C operating in the wintertime you will be a lot less likely to encounter windshield fogging, certainly not of the type caused by thye A/C itself. But if you do encounter windshield fogging the very best solution, ALWAYS, is turn up the heat to max, the blower should follow automatically, and then activate the defrost/defog/demist function. It doesn't hurt to lower a rear window slightly to flush the mositure you just brought in with those sweaty wet snow skiiers. The Lexus series is exceedingly well sealed and insulated, double door seals, etc, not only for your personal comfort but to also increase the MPG economy rating. In the summertime the less "conditioned" airflow that escapes the less the A/C compressor operates. Each Lexus does have the required airflow "exhauster port" but it's generally mounted in a location resulting in substantially reduced incoming airflow than most of us would desire, especially in the wintertime and high cabin humidity for some reason. Those damn snow skiiers again. And now to prevent further condensation keep the windshield interior surface warmed by over-riding the system's propensity to go into "cooling" mode (no warming airflow to the windshield) automatically. Good reading at: http://www.airsept.com/eed.html
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