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About Ernie

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  • Lexus Model
    '95 ES300
  1. my kid thought it would be cool to take on the mini lake that formed in the parking lot where he works. It killed the engine and his buddies tried to jump start it to no avail. I went back with him and we tried pulling it to start it and all it did was drag the rear wheels. So we towed it home. I had him take the spark plugs out, and like a dummie I was standing right next to the truck when he turned it over. I got soaked BIG TIME! He spent a couple of hours drying things out. He got it running, I even took it out of town to get building materials once. But there was something that just wasn't quite right. Then one morning he was coming back from the store, and BAHM! The number four rod went through both sides of the block. You could see stright through from one side through the other side. It was a ten year old Toyota with about 60k miles on it. He wound up with a junk yard engine that had 130k miles on it. Still running like a champ, no more puddles for him!
  2. knowing my daughter, "Hey dad, those numbers must be there for a reason,LETS USE THEM!"
  3. so here's the latest scoop! After I took out two other sensors on the tranny, I found the right one. I knew what it was supposed to look like because there is a picture in the Haynes manual. So now that it's out, I couldn' resist taking the three screws out that hold the top on. There is a small steel ball in the center that was being pushed into the top by a small spring. I'm always gun shy when it comes to taking these trinkets apart, too many times that parts went BBoing!!! And you don't get a chance to see how things were. The only thing that happened was the little ball was attracted to the magnetic ring that was around the outside of the center portion. That ring is black and actually looked like a carbon ring. It had a split in it, and at first I thought that was a gap that was part of the process. But after further inspection, I found that the ring was cracked in two places. I removed the cir clip from the shaft and removed the shaft. It has a split in the end that the head at the top fits into. That head has two flats that coincide with two flats in that black ring. With it all put together as it should be, I could turn the drive gear at the bottom, and with my finger on the black ring, hold the ring to keep it from turning. When I didn't hold the black ring, it would turn along with the shaft. Therefore my intermittent speedo problem. There may have been a particle of dirt that worked it's way to the black ring and stopped it, and the speedo went to zero. I talked to my daughter again today to find out for sure how far she drove when the speedo went to zero. She thought it may have been a half an hour. I think that what happens is; if it goes to zero while in some higher gears, it's O.K. until you stop. Then when you take off it never knew that you left the station, and it stays in first gear. And that fits her scenario to a tee. You can also do a search for 8318112040 and see that Nigel had a first gear problem, and after 12 months and a few bucks, he came to the same conclusion. (by the way that ten digit number I told you to search for is the VSS part nmber) I shopped around and found it at Pleasanton Lexus for $206. The Toyota dealer in Modesto (same part # for Toyota) was $237......go figure...Pleasanton is super Ritzy and it was a Lexus dealer to boot..?? Hey! and then I asked for a Senior discount, and he said O.K., that he would make a note and they give me 10% off. Can't beat that! Sorry I rang on so long, but I thought it may help, and do take a look at Nigels thread, it's worth your time.
  4. I trust her when it comes to numbers. There was no rain, so I believe that puddles can be ruled out. She didn't say anything about any abnormal lights coming on. How long will a code stay in there? Any way that I can retrieve a code? Sorry that I forgot to mention that it is a 95 ES300 (even though it's on the profile)
  5. My daughter was heading into Ventura and the speedometer quit. Then (and I'm not sure how soon after) she said the RPM's were at 7000 and 8000. She parked it, and I went and got it and brought it home (about 350 miles), the speedo did wobble a couple of times on the way back, but nothing like what happened to her. I drove it the 150 mile round trip to work on Monday, and the speedo only slightly bounced once when I first started out in the morning. I stopped in at a Tranny shop and the guy there said that when the speedo shows zero, the tranny goes to first gear! Ssccaarryy! huh? So it looks like I have an intermittent problem- the most fun kind! I'm leaning toward changing the Vehicle Speed Sensor. I realize it could also be a poor contact in a wire connection or a problem with the ECM. I also notice that the cruise works, but with my foot gently on the gas pedal, I can feel the cruise hunting very slightly back and forth. It's not enough to see any fluctuation in the speedometer. O.K. guys.....let's see you out do the MB forum!
  6. either I'm blinder than I thought, or my browser brings this forum way different than you guys see it. I just don't see anything close to "gallery". I've gone to every page possible and clicked on everything....where is it?
  7. Bryan,....I did it in paint, then went back to see what the demension size was and it's smaller my 2/3. But the file size is still large, about 1000kb, it was only 664kb before I fooled with it. Any idea whats up there? skper,....I looked every where for the photo gallery....where is it? Any instructions on how to use it? Thanks , Ernie
  8. Bryan, Sorry it took so long, been tied up. Hey...when I went to post I noticed an article on rebuilding your pump. There are some pictures that didn't come up, but it was a class act on the discriptions! I think that if you can toughen up enough to pull the pump, then rebuilding it would be a piece of cake. I have a picture of the old pump but can't figure how to get it small so I don't take up too band width. Anyone know how to squeeze it down? Ernie
  9. As always, there are all the safety precautions that must be considered. Especially the proper supports under the car while it’s “up in the air”. Eye protection and all the other common sense stuff. They also recommend that you have the code for the radio at hand before disconnecting the battery. The right front wheel has to come off and the inner fender flap once the wheel is off. The main drive belt has to come off. Loosen two bolts on the alternator, then the pinch bolt for the adjusting bolt, and then begin loosening the alternator until the belt is slack enough to slip the belt off. Now the belt for the power steering pump can be removed. Loosen the top bolt on the pump; it’s the one that the pump pivots on. Its about 3” long. Look at the replacement pump and you’ll see the two holes that the bolt goes through. Then loosen the lock bolt that holds the pump in position. Loosen the belt and remove it. See if you can get the pulley off of the pump. Mine came off really easy. I put a short 3/8” extension in one of the holes in the pulley, so it would jam against the pump, to loosen the nut. After the nut was removed, I tapped on the back side of the pulley, then rotated it a little and tap – rotate –tap –rotate –tap, and pretty soon I could feel a slight click in the pulley when I pulled on one side then the other. And then it came off. Now you have a better view of the plumbing and what you’re up against. The two large hoses that slide onto the pump fittings, and are held in place by spring clamps, are the supply hoses from the reservoir. Looking at them from the topside I made a mental note on their orientation so they get back where they belong. They slip right off once the spring clamps are scooted up a few inches. I stuffed the ends of the hoses with clean paper towels to keep them clean. I pulled them up and let them rest on the fire wall, out of the way. The next thing I went for was the discharge line that has the bolt that goes through the banjo fitting. This is where things came to a screeching halt. I had about 18” of extension between my ratchet and the socket, and when I cranked on it, I could feel that the bolt didn’t come loose, the fitting that the bolt screws into came loose at the pump. So….no sense in turning any further, all that would happen, is kinking the steel line attached to the banjo fitting. This is where I lost about 2 ½ to 3 hours, trying to figure a way to hold that fitting so I didn’t have to buy a new line. This is why I recommended removing the pulley earlier. I didn’t remove the pulley until I had this problem, and that’s why I took it off while the pump was still in the car. It was the only way I could really address the fitting that came loose when it shouldn’t. I was going to get my cutting torch out and shorten a wrench to the length that would fit into that tight space, when I remembered that I had a 10” Crescent wrench that I torched many years ago. It fit in there perfectly. I then took a carpenters clamp (the kind that looks like a capitol “F” and is adjustable) and clamped the back end of the Crescent wrench to the fender well to hold it while I went back topside to loosen the banjo bolt. And it worked. Next comes the other discharge line. It is a regular fitting that screws directly into the pump. It’s similar to the type of fitting on a brake line. Next is the electrical connector for the solenoid. I couldn’t see how it came apart, so I took the bolt out that holds the wire clamp in place. Then I could rotate the plastic connector to see how it worked. You may be able to disconnect it without removing the clamp bolt. That bolt is primarily there to hold one of the supply hose fittings in place. Everything is now off the pump. Take the belt adjusting bolt out. Then the long pivot bolt out. And the pump is out. The rest of it as all just a matter of swapping the fittings and parts from the old pump to the new. And then reverse the steps to install the new pump. The paper that comes with the pump gives you some general tips and hints, but they are general at best! An example is; when finished, they say to fill the reservoir and leave the return hoses off the pump and flush the system. Well, those two big slip on hoses are NOT the return hoses! They are the supply hoses. And if you want to look at it this way, they are really part of the reservoir. The return hoses are actually two small hoses that slip onto the front side of the reservoir. I slipped them off and plugged the fittings on the reservoir with a couple of small plastic plugs I had. I slipped a couple of plastic tubes (about 3/8”od) into the return hoses, and ran them down and into the wheel well where I had a ½ gal. plastic bottle to catch the waste fluid. Tie the tubes so they can’t fly out of the bottle, because when you first start up, the air in the system will blow the small plastic tubes out and you’ll have a mess. My owners’ manual says to use Dextron I or Dextron II. I couldn’t find either, the parts store said that didn’t make it any more. I called the 800 number in the instruction paper and the guy said that Dextron III was OK. When I finished flushing, I did see some metal flakes, so it is worth the trouble. I hope I didn’t forget anything, e-mail me if you need some help. Ernie
  10. OK Stevie, I'm going to go over to Word and put it all together then come back and paste it here, give me a little time, I'm in the middle of a couple of other projects. Ernie
  11. in case any one needs a heads up on changing out a power steering pump on a ES300 (95), I just did one today and would be pleased to share the pain, just e-mail me. Ernie