slate67

http://www.tmengineering.net/suspension/daizen/make/gs.html If I had not done the work myself I would not have been able to discuss the bushings. I will hypothesize for you the following: Since the parts you noted are all atached to the control arms in some way, and since the only interface between the control arms and the body of the vehicle are the bushings, it will make little difference in the shimmying if the bushings are, and I use the term in the textbook definition of the word - crap. In order to see the bushings you have to remove the shock, the upper ball joint, the wheel hub assembly, the number 2 control arm (which BTW the OEM bushing was not as bad as the #1 OEM bushing)and then loosen up the steering rack to press out the cam adjustment bolt, thereby being able to remove the #1 control arm and seeing the bushing. It is a lot of work for a look see and it is the only way to see what I mean. Had I been able to take pictures you would be able to see what I did. Good luck.

Hey all: I posted a few weeks ago about the fact that I was undertaking a total suspension refurb and that I would post the process with pictures for all to refer to. I am sorry that I was not able to do that because of time but will offer some findings. I replaced the front shocks and rear struts with KYB GR2s. I also got the suspension bushing kit from TM engineering as well as the steering rack bushing kit. I replaced the tie rod ends and the lower ball joints (from what I have seen they give out around 75,000 and I have 75,500 on my GS4. I completed the refurb with standard tools (no compressor) and a cheater bar (30 inch steel pipe). Since I did this in my garage and still work full time it was completed a few hours at a time over the course of 4 weeks. I did have to get a loaner ball joint puller kit and the spring compressor kits from a parts store but got my money back when I returned the kits (approx $150). I borrowed a torque wrench because mine only went up to 76 pounds and you will need to torque up to 123#. I took the #1 and #2, and upper control arms to a machine shop to have the bushings pressed out and the new nylon bushing pressed into control arm #2 ($40 each side =$80). I used rustoleum rust stop primer and top coat spray paint on the control arms after brushing the rust off (repainted since the control arms were glass beaded and chamfered as part of the bushing removal/ install process and I didn't want bare metal to corrode. You will need a copy of the repair manual to get torque specs and assist in the removal/ installation process. I found mine invaluable (it is a papar 2 volume repair manual, not the CD version that I saw posted on line many years ago). I bought it on e-bay 4 years ago for under $200 but I cannot recall how much I paid. I remember thinking it was way too expensive when I could buy a Chilton's for $15, but this 2 volume set is huge and very detailed. The books combined must be 8-10 inches thick. The skill level for this I would place at moderate. I have never done this before but consider myself a DIYer and have mechanical ability. When I spoke with TM engineering about the refurb I was planning they recommended that the steering bushings be replaced at the same time. I now know that this makes a lot of sense since the steering rack must be loosened to get out the adjustment cam bolt from the lower control arm. If you have to loosen it up anyway why not replace them. Seeing the bushings after I removed the control arms I now know why the front end vibrated so wildly at 60-70 MPH... They were pieces of rubber crap. I could twist the stuff with my bare hands and, in my opinion, the bushings were shot. Although I am no mechanic I believe the bushings are the sole reason for the shimmy that I have put up with for 4.5 years. I tried all the "fixes" noted on this site - tire balancing, tire load balancing, tire pressure adjustment, steering pre-tensioner stiffening and nothing worked. Amazingly when I pulled my car out of the alignment shop yesterday and took the thing up through 75 MPH no shimmy, not even a tiny one. I had a smile on my face instead of the frustration I normally experienced in that range. Some other observations. The KYB GR2s are stiffer than the OEM shock/struts. I used the existing coils and I believe the car rides a bit higher though I did not measure before and after install. This could also be due to the bushings not being rubber mush. With my chrome rims I could feel a lot of the road - it is now a stiffer less forgiving ride but it is a lot more fun on corners with much less body roll. Interestingly we had an ice storm last night so I put on my snow tires (Blizzak WS50s) and drove those to work today. The tires are a softer rubber with gripper fins that absorb some of the road feel and ease up the ride. I put these tires on OEM 16inch rims from a 2003 ES300. The ride is smoother with the snows on. Bottom line is that a suspension refurb is definitely the fix for the front end shimmy that everyone notes between 60-70 mph. Had I known I would have done this years ago, like as in when I first noted the shimmy. I think the parts were just under $800 from TM engineering (great guys) and the bushing machine work $80, and $10 for paint (plus my time for $0) = approx $890 total. The solution to an annoying shimmy and enhanced steering and cornering performance..... FREAKIN' PRICELESS. :D

There is a bonus here if you read what follows. My wife's 2000 Sienna Van power door lock master switch will only unlock the doors. It will not lock them - that must be done manually for alll 4 doors and the tailgate. I checked the fuses and the wires to the best of my ability and found nothing. I replaced the master switch and after plugging it in the problem was not solved. I then purchased a door lock actuator and installed it last night (BTW not to bad of a job if it is done slowly and methodically), and still the problem exists. I found the relays but do not know how to check them. Does anybody have a thought as to what this is and how to fix? What shoud I look at and how can I fix? BONUS: I am refurbing the suspension on my 98 GS4 (shocks, tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings from TM Engineering) and I hope to post the how to on this site with pix. I would really like to resolve the wife's van issue so that I can continue with the refurb :D I am doing all the work in my garage without power tools so it will be a normal tool process posted (with the exception of a machine shop that pressed out the old bushings). Please Help me figure out the power door lock enigma. Slate

I searched the tutorials and maintenance sections looking for an article I once viewed in how to replace the various bushings made by Daizen. I have 76,000 miles on my vehicle and have been having the front end "hippie hippie shakes" for long enough at 60 MPH. Tried all recommended solutions without success. Since the shocks need replacement I am going to replace the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and steering and suspension bushings. The parts are on order from TM engineering. I own a complete repair manual for the GS400 but reading through the instructions appeared that more was broken down during the repair than needed. I know experienced people know how far something needs to be broken down (and no more so that it does not take all day) to proceed to the intended part. Question. Has anyone done these repairs and used the repair manual as a reference? Does everything really need to be disconnected to get to the control arm? Also, any directions on the bushing replacements? Are any included with the bushings or do I need to reference the manual? I will have a bettre idea of what things look like once the parts arrive and I get under the car but am looking for any advice out there. BTW, as you can probably guess I am not a mechanic but have done a fair amount of repairs on our cars/ van (3 of which were Toyotas). I can do just about anything with good instructions so am looking to round out my knowledge base before beginning. Thanks

Interesting that this topic keeps coming up. A year ago I posted just this issue. I drive 95% city and yesterday I was up to 60 in the 45MPH zone (simply because it was 65 degrees and the sunroof was open) and as I reached 60 the Steering wheel began to vibrate CW/CCW. I had my tires load tested and balanced, had the wheels laser aligned, and added nitro to the tires. At low speeds the car handles better than it did prior to this but at 60 it vibrates and then diminishes as it gets up to 70 (but is still present). I just searched this topic and found this TSB http://www.gainrecordings.com/lexus/1998%2...8%20field%20fix It appears it is more of a fix than the typical DIY to me, no? And if it is a TSB, would not this be a recall issue? Granted my vehicle is 10 years old and I am the 3rd owner( first was a ST Louis Rams Player who had it for 6 months, second had it for 5.5 years , and I have had it for 4) but this is an identified issue that obviously has a number of people plagued. :o Any thoughts on this?

Hey I just happened a few years ago to hear an episode of Click and Clack, the car repair guys from Boston. The problem is condensation left in the vent system after running the AC. As the car's cabin warms up the tubing/ pipes/ vent stuff can perspire. As that sits, it gets a musty smell. They recommended 2 options. 1, before you turn your Ac off, run it on hot for a minute or 2 to clear the moisture (not an option for me in the suummer, which coincidentally is when I use the AC. and 2. there was some spray neutralizer stuff that repair shops could spray into your vents that was suposed to combat it if it was real bad. I heard somewhere that you run your Ac in the winter periodically to do something beneficial, though never knew what it was. wonder if the smell is why? Hope this helps. I just deal with the slight mildew smell until it goes away at the start of the AC season. "A 10 year old lexux is more reliable than a brand new BMW. Cool. My car is about to turn 10. Screw the new Beemers out there.

Thanks for the assist. I got the michillen exalto v-rated tires from costco, cost about $130 mounted, balanced, w/ nitrogen and new valves. there was a $60 rebate at the time, they also have the H rated exaltos which are decent also. other than that, i'd just say get some kumho's.

Very interesting. I have a 98 GS400 and had the same thing with OEM chrome 16 " rims and non- OEM tires. Took it in for alignment and was told not needed. Had the tires re-balanced which diminished but did not eliminate the vibration. Since I do most of my driving in town, not much opportunity to evaluate the vibration at highway speeds. Changed over to snows just before Thanksgiving (OEM used rims and Blizzak WS50s) and viola- problem gone. Just took at 2 hour trip this past weekend via highway at 75-80 mph without even a hint of vibration. Is it really a tire issue, since all have the same symptoms and the only thing I did was change to snows or could the OEM chromes contribute? So, next question. When I replace my tires on my chromes (which I was planning on doing when I switch off my snows) what should I get? I don't want to spend a fortune but don't want the vibration either. Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks.

I have taken the lenses off 2 times to replace rear end bulbs. I do not have pictures but there are 3 bolts on the rear lens. Two are accessed from behind semicircular caps on the body just outside the weatherstripping that seals the trunk. They pry out with a flat blade screwdriver but do not force or the caps will become dented. You can remove the 2 nuts once they are exposed. The 3rd bolt is accesses from inside the trunk. It is covered by a plastic cap that twists off (reminded me of the oil fill cap when removing- quarter twist and pull out). The nut is accessed from here (deep socket is necessary. When the 3 nuts are removed the lens pulls off the body. If you drop the inside nut inside the trunk liner, don't freak out. It lands up in the body well on the side under the trunk liner. Can't tell you about the lenses but good luck. It's an easy procedure.

I went this route 2 years ago. I have OEM chrome rims that I do not want to junk up. Additionally, a rear wheel drive vehicle, even with traction control, was beyond what I wanted to use without snows. I located rims on tirerack that would fit my vehicle (looked at specs of different lexus models and toyota models and matched that way) and then the tire I wanted was a Blizzak WS50 (exceptional and highly recommended on this site for a reason- It was like having cramp-ons on my wheels with the traction control and this tire). I ended up purchasing a set of 4 tires with rims o e-bay for less than 100 miles (If I recall they were 1993 or 1994 ES300 rims) ordered my tires through tire rack, and took all to my local alignment guy to switch out. Akk in all it cost me about $400 for rims and new tires and I couldn't be happier. NOw, having said that, I have the gold package on my 1998 GS400 and the ES rims are silver logo, don't have the "pop" I like with the chrome, but that's the sacrifice I made. It can be done with a bit of research. Also, I do recall calling a tire store to verify that the rims from the 1993 or 1994 ES300 would fit the 1998GS400 before I purchased. Good luck and I highly recommend the WS50s. They are fun.

I replaced the one in my 98 GS400 last January and did not do anything special. It was down to the point of not turning the engine over and I removed the dead one and placed a new one in it. Had no issues with my remotes but at start up the engine was idling oddly for a few minutes as I recall. Seemed to be doing some type of electronic adjustments. Have had no issues over the past 12 months related to electrical or remotes. As a disclaimer, I am not a mechanic. I know there are gurus on this site and I will defer to them if their response differs from mine. Good luck.

135 MPH on I-95 south in Massachusetts back in 1993 while on my 1988 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10. They had recently paved the road with virgin hot top. Throttled down when I felt the front end unweight as I went over a small ridge. :o In my 1998 GS400, I haven't had any fun above 90. :(

I happened to be on e-bay looking at a 1998 lexus gs400 and noted one of his upgrades was Daizen control arm bushings (As I read there is a kit available). THere is also a disxcussion thread at http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php...697#post1909697 Since I have used LOC for all of my info and have never been mislead, I am bringing this to the group. I have very slight vibration upon braking and had a lot of vibration at 60 mph that seemed to improve once past 65-70. Don't do much hwy travel so not too much of an issue. It improved with an alignment and balance but not totally. On this thread they spoke of the symptoms of vibration being attributed to rotors, suspension, alignment, etc. Does anyone know if 1) the control arm bushing issue is a valid observation/argument and 2) how difficult is it to replace the bushings on a 1998 GS400 (I have the manuals)? I have about 56,000 on the odo and am intrigued by the possibility. Thanks.

Nothing to who???? I remember a buddy who had relatives in england going to visit in the mid 80s. He said gas was in the mid $3.00 range as I recall. I rember saying that I would stop driving if gas EVER went up to $1.75. Aaah. The ignorance of youth.

Good to know and now I feel better knowing this info. Another lunchtime conversation topic put to rest. Will have to find another. Have a great day. :D

Hey: I heard a segment last year on NPR "Click and Clack-The Tappett Brothers" about how idling uses relatively little fuel and that frequently during the Ididerod in Alaska, they have spotters that sit in their idling cars for days without a refill. The original question was speaking of burning up an engine by leaving it idling too long. A friend and I had a discussion about our 8 cylindar engines and how we both like to let them warm up for 5 minutes before driving first thing in the morning, assuming that it is better for the life of the engine. I just read some gas savings tips that said if idling in traffic greater than 1 minute to shut off the engine and restart it when the traffic gets moving. There must be some fuel guys out there (God knows there are oil guys that frequent this site) so what's the verdict. Is the tradeoff of warming up the engine to extend the life vs not idling to save gas even an issue? I wouldn't even bring up the question if the price of gas hasn't been going up weekly (or more frequently than that). Thoughts? Price of Gas (93 octane) in Cape Girardeau, MO just decreased to $2.89.9/gal. I know we have it better than some but must be some parts better off.

Thanks for the reply. So, just soap and water and buff with a cloth? :) Have a great day.

When washing my chrome wheels use the same stuff I use on my car: soap and water. If not shiny enough, use eagle 1 glass cleaner and a soft cotton cloth to shine to perfection. A coworker was extolling some type of castrol wheel cleaner that removes brake dust :o and "really cleans." HOw best to explain that that stuff will corrode the chrome wheels? Or am I incorrect in this belief? Thanks.

Sounds like a recipe for an afternoon's work. Thanks for the response.

What can be done to dampen the white "shine" of the affected areas against my factory paint? Is there any "blemish" makeup for them? Thanks so much

Thanks so much for the assist. The part I need is the pin / fastener that would press into the part listed as #5 (protector right) that would go into the 2 holes shown (takes 2 fasteners that are plastic). any thoughts? Have a great one.

Without going to the trouble of a new paint job, is there anything that can be done for those annoying rock chips that appear on the hood and roof just above the windshield? I have a 1998 GS4 Cinnebar Pearl that the white chip area shows up on. I have 2 that really annoy me (approx 1/4 inch in diameter), and every time I wash or wax I wonder what can be done. Any thoughts from the professionals? Can these spots be repainted or is there some way to hide them that does not involve colored wax? Thanks

I am no expert but I took the advice of some posters last year and purchased some NXT liquid. I used it all last year and took the winter off. I just used it yesterday (75 degrees and itching to detail) and I am still amazed at the way it looks. I have a 98GS4 Cinnebar Pearl and it looks like I have a 12 inch deep shine. I put it on in straight swipes, all the same direction in the garage and wipe it off with a microfiber towel, again all in straight swipes in the same direction (front to back direction). The microfiber towels do create static electricity, especially on my spoiler, which attracts dust and pollen. I use one of those california mop things that dusts the car and it removes the dust leaving the beautiful shine. I looked at the car last night after I finished and, with thye exception of a few paint chips from road debris, she looks so pretty. I will say that I bought the spray last year that you are supposedly able to use when the car is wet and between waxing and I did not like it at all. It was more difficult to apply and remove evenly without hazing but I have read other posts where they like it. I was just telling a coworker about NXT this morning and I absolutely love it. For the record I am a professional that does not like to spend 8 hours per week detailing. I am lucky if I can get it done 1x/month but the finish I get keeps me coming back to the NXT. I prefer to do it by hand so if I had a buffer, I may have a different opinion. I have no plans on getting a buffer. BTW. It took me just over 3 total hours to wask, wax, wash interior windows, polish the exhaust (whatever they are that are at the end of the muffler pipes), and edge dress the wheels. Have a great day.

Hey everyone: I want to replace the oil drain plug and gasket on my 1998 GS400. I bought the manuals and all part numbers are listed except the fastener type parts, of which I guess the oil drain plug is one. Does anyone know what the part number for this is so I can order from the local Toyota dealership in town versus 2 hours away at Lexus? Second, The rails on my moonroof are sounding drier than they used to. What type of lubricant do they take? There is a yellowish type of stuff there now, that looks different from the white lithium grease I was thinking of using. OK 3 small questions. Does anyone know where I can find part numbers for the buttons on the body that hold the fiberglass rocker panels on? They are plastic and the one that broke is brown. It is approx 1/2 inch diameter, low profile, and holds the panels onto the metal rail where the jack slots are. The toyota guy looked at me like I was crazy to ask for one when I brought the top piece in for him to see. I assumed that Toyota would use similar fasteners on its vehicles (sorry for the Toyota comment to those Lexus owners sensitive to the differentiation) due to standardization and Lean manufacturing. Much thanks for the assistance. "The only thing I would change about my 98 GS400 is the price of gas. It's not as much fun to floor it when the dust in the rear view mirror is coming from my wallet." :cries:

I have seen postings about replacing rotors for the looks but not for being warped. Regardless, how difficult of a procedure is it. I too have some vibration when braking and assume the prior owner let the tire monkeys use an impact wrench instead of hand torquing. (98 GS400) Thanks.