Filehorse

If all these codes appeared at the same time it would seem they have a common cause such as a bad connection in the coil harness or the fuel injection harness. Ignition coils are a common problem with this generation RX but they would fail individually. Fuel pressure is another common source that would cause multiple misfires simultaneously. Here is a link which discusses the P0300 code for your Lexus and that might help. https://www.autocodes.com/p0300_lexus.html#disq I also would not discount the camshaft position sensors or the crankshaft position sensors as they can also create havoc with the engine control system. Given the age of the vehicle and the mileage you should think carefully before throwing a lot of money at the vehicle in search of the cause and then the repair. Good luck.

If the water is still a problem running the heater then I have to ask if you are sure it's A/C condensate and not coolant. A leak in the heating coil or one of the lines attached to the coil would produce the problem you are describing. Better check this one a bit more closely.

The hydraulic struts on either side of the trunk hatch need to be replaced. It's a common issue. Shop around. The dealer prices these struts like they came from Tiffany. Here is a link to an Amazon source: https://www.amazon.com/Lexus-1999-2003-Liftgate-Lift-Supports/dp/B003NI5GVO

Most likely you have a problem with the Mode Servo which directs air flow to vents, defroster, heater, or mix. I replaced both the Mode Servo and the Air Mix Servo (which actually controls the temp of the air from the system). This is a common problem on this generation RX. The parts aren't particularly cheap but if you don't mind crawling under the dash both servos are a DIY type project. The following link has enough info to get your started and there are probably some videos on YouTube to help you out. Good luck. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-1st-gen-1999-2003/281294-air-mix-servo.html

Well, I'm thoroughly confused now. Brakes should not cause an imbalance problem. If it's my RX300, it's headed back to the shop that did the balancing. The worst that will happen is the tires will actually be in balance and then you can begin to look elsewhere. Chances are if it's a good shop they will have seen a lot of unusual stuff in the past and may be able to point you in the right direction. Again, good luck.

The first order of business is to take it back to whoever did the balancing and tell them they missed it. Badly. Ask them to also evaluate for road force issues (out of round) and possibly a bent wheel. It might be something as simple as a weight they put on has come off. I had that happen to my 2000 RX300 on one occasion. Those allow wheels sometimes won't let a perimeter weight seat properly and the can pop off. Regardless, a trip back to the balancing shop is the first thing to do. Good luck.

It's time to let it go. After 19 years any substantial effort at repair would be throwing good money after bad. I also had a 2000 RX300 AWD with 225,000+ miles and it got to the point where once or twice a year there would be a sensor failure, alternator failure, or some other issue that would result in a major repair expense. Spending $1,000 for a repair (and a LOT more if it's the actual engine) is just not cost effective. My 2013 RX350 is still much the same vehicle as was my 2000 RX300 only so much better. If you really like the RX then rest assured that if you buy a decent used RX it will continue to serve you just as your current model has only without the specter of likely imminent component failure. Whatever might be spent on a repair would be better spent towards a newer RX. Good luck.

"Ever since it has been replaced"..?? If the Lexus OEM windshield did NOT have this problem and it started immediately after the new windshield was installed, I think you should be talking to your insurance company before spending any money to address the symptoms instead of the root cause. All windshields are NOT created equal and it sounds like the new one has a surface that is creating your problem. This replacement glass evidently has optical properties which differ from the Lexus OEM product. Since your insurance paid for the replacement they should go back on Safelite for resolution and if that requires a Lexus OEM replacement glass then so be it. I'd tell them it was distracting my vision creating a driving safety hazard and it was NOT a problem prior to the new glass being installed and it has to be addressed. The purpose of insurance is to make you "whole" and clearly (no pun intended) this has not happened. The replacement glass must have higher reflectivity creating a mirror effect of some degree. Good luck and let us know how things work out.

Check my post dated March 17, 2018. https://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/90116-service-instructions-manual/?tab=comments#comment-498994 If you can't get them there let me know.

New ones available on the internet for about $175. Your best bet for finding a used one is going to be auto salvage yards. That series RX300 was very popular and I suspect they shouldn't be hard to find in a salvage yard. Here locally, Pull-A-Part can be a great source for used parts. https://www.pullapart.com/

I believe those three .PDF files are active again. Let me know if you have any trouble downloading them

Unless you're a hardcore DIYer you're getting into an area where you probably need to know a reputable independent Toyota/Lexus shop. I think the #2 cylinder is in the front bank of cylinders so at least it'll be a LOT easier to access. Still, with only 120K on the odometer you could pull the head(s) and pony up the $$$ to address the problem and you still should have a LOT of miles remaining on that drive train. I think my 2000 RX300 AWD had about 245K on it when I traded it in on a Tacoma. I did have the transmission rebuilt at 135K and it was still going strong when we traded it. When you find out what the root cause of your problem is please post a follow up so others can benefit from your experience. Good luck..!!

If all this started quickly it's probably not a compression-related issue. Have you checked to be sure the #2 coil is actually firing..?? You didn't say anything about having replaced that coil and they are a weak spot.

The first order of business is to determine exactly what the actual oil pressure is. If, in fact, the oil pressure is low enough to cause the oil pressure light to come on then you are at great risk of trashing the motor if you continue to drive it at all. Out of curiosity, why did you replace the oil pressure sending unit in the first place? If the oil pressure light was exhibiting the same symptoms before you replaced the sending unit then a failing oil pump would be in the lineup of usual suspects. A pressure gauge attached where the oil pressure sending goes will tell you whether or not you have a serious pressure problem. Good luck.

By 160K miles I had already replaced two coil packs due to failure. After another one failed I just replaced the rest of them preemptively. Plugs are generally good for 100K miles so you are well past that threshold. A quick Google search on the codes will give you most of the info you need although the codes don't always point directly at the problem. Good luck. https://www.google.com/search?q=P0300%2C+P0302%2C+P0304%2C+P0306&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1

The most likely culprit is the Air Mix Servo. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-1st-gen-1999-2003/281294-air-mix-servo.html The above link provides some discussion but there is lots of discussion available on this subject. It's a common failure point for this generation of RX300 vehicles.

You may want to think about taking it back to him if you're comfortable with his ability to troubleshoot the system. This is going to require a level of expertise above shade tree. Good luck and let us know what the problem was.

How do you know it's fully charged? Unless you've put a set of manifold gauges on the system you have no way of knowing what the real story is. Sounds like a pressure sensing switch is causing the unit to trip out but you gotta put some gauges on it to know for sure.

Sounds like you have a problem with the ABS system. This may require a trip to a good independent shop to see what the codes will tell you. You need to stop throwing parts at the problem and go ahead and get it diagnosed properly. That said, at the age of your RX it was probably a good idea to replace most of the items you mentioned. I just traded my 2000 RX300 with 245,000 miles on the clock and still running strong.

Here you go. Hope these are of some help to you. RX300 - Body Electrical Diagrams .pdf RX300_1998-2003_Workshop_Repair_Manual__WhereEverybodyKnowsY.pdf RX300_-_Repair_Manual_.pdf

There is a safety interlock solenoid that will not operate unless the brake pedal is depressed. At the age of your vehicle it may be that the solenoid is "gunked up" and needs either cleaning or replacement. As to flushing the transmission with 208,000 miles on it, tread very carefully here. There is ample anecdotal evidence that using a flush technique on a transmission this old with this much service can break loose deposits that have settled out in the nooks and crannys of the hydraulic circuits and flushing may dislodge enough of them to lead to catastrophic failure of the transmission. If your transmission shop is really good they should have an opinion on this. This is especially true if the transmission has never been serviced or if if has more than 60,000-75,000 miles on it since the last service. This exact failure happened to me on a Jeep Grand Cherokee. A drain and refill is probably pretty safe but at least discuss this with your shop before proceeding with a displacement flush. Good luck. Oh, my Jeep lasted about 1500 miles before it failed. The tech found the ATF coolant lines completely plugged with sludge.

It does not look good for the home team. Guessing the white smoke was oil blowing on to a hot exhaust pipe. You didn't mention whether or not the red Oil Pressure idiot light came on. I'm guessing it must have - assuming it is working. Sounds like your engine didn't stall; it seized.

Don't have too much to go on here. A roundup of the usual suspects would include coolant suddenly getting into one of the cylinders. This would cause engine shaking due to ignition loss on that cylinder. The white "smoke" would actually be water vapor. The quick way to determine if this is the problem would be to have someone run a pressure test on your cooling system. These are easy to do and any repair shop could perform it. The bad news is that if what you have is actually a coolant leak there are typically only a couple of choices: either a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder head. Has the engine been severely overheated recently? If so you may have the source of your problem. It sounds like you need to find a good independent garage that preferably deals with Toyota since the engine is a made by Toyota. Also, check your oil level with the dipstick. If the oil appears milky in appearance it likely has water in it. Also if it is milky and the level is above the Full mark that could also suggest you've picked up some coolant in the crankcase. This is just a place to start. Hopefully it will turn out to be something simple but the prognosis isn't real good. Let us know what you find out.

There are several faults which will prevent the transmission from shifting into 4th gear. From personal experience I know that either a fuel injector failure or a cylinder coil failure will cause that to happen. The code you have appears to definitely be related to a transmission issue. https://www.autocodes.com/p1730_toyota.html. Me thinks you are going to have to find a reliable transmission shop to identify and replace the failed switch/sensor. On the positive side there seems to be no indication of anything mechanically wrong with the transmission so hopefully you won't need to take your banker along for the service. Good luck.