Marty Witt

I just switched to Verizon and purchased an LG VX6000 phone (currently one of the most popular models). I also purchased the hands free car kit for this phone. I think I know where to get the "custom" mounting bracket, looks like the Tessco 86556 is the way to go. I know how to tear out the center console as needed to install the bracket and get to the stereo wiring. I know that there is an antenna wire in my trunk that is unused. But I have a few questions: 1. Will this antenna wire work for a digital phone? (the phone that came with the SC's was an Anolog phone) 2. If it will work with digital, where does the other end terminate? Center console? Dash? 3. If it will work with digital, what kind of antenna did Lexus hook it up to? A separate antenna? The motorized antenna? 4. Has anybody installed a similar system? If so, what is the radio mute wire for a 1995 SC400 and where is it located? 5. Is it possible to hook up the speaker through the cars system instead of installing the speaker that came with the car kit? 6. What are the best wires to hook up the 12V and ignition wires to? I assume it will be the main wires going to the ignition, but thought maybe the wires that go to the stereo might also work? I have searched this web site but only found sporadic information, mainly for other Lexus models. So any advise will be a big benefit. If/when I get this baby installed, I will share my new found expertise with the group.

When I attempted to remove by emblems so I could replate them with Gold, they were very difficult to remove. They are not only glued on, the also have a !Removed! pin on the back of them that has a locking ring on the back. These locking rings are very difficult (I thought impossible) to remove. To remove the ones on the back, you would have to tear out the interior of the trunk. The front ones are so far inside the bumper, that you can't reach them. Since you are replacing them, I guess it is OK to break the old emblems. If any one has actually removed them without breaking them, I would be interested in knowing how. I ended up replating them while they were on the car, except for the ones on the wheels, they are very easy to remove. In case your interested, I bought a gold plating kit off of E-Bay for like $30. It does work semi well, but the gold is more of a brassy appearance. And surface preparation was a pain. You have to polish the surface and then use jewelers rouge as final preparation. But, they look better than before, so it was a cheap way of sprucing up the old SC400.

You've got to see this one!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...9&category=6300

My 1995 SC400 also had a Salvage Title due to a flood. It has been rock solid so far, about 12 months. I would try to find out what the damage was, see if they have pictures. Maybe it's not too bad.

It seems to be working now. Try it!! http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq14.htm

Are you talking about the gold or silver Lexus emblems on the wheel caps??

I don't know what's wrong, it worked from my work this morning. I will double check it at work tomorrow and try to fix it.

Here is a good link for a bunch of good battery info. http://www.batteryfaq.org/carfaq14.htm

Whether the battery has a drain on it or not, it will still discharge over time. By letting your battery completely drain, you may have shortened its life. When a battery is dead, the plates will sulfate and lose their ability to accept a charge. The fact that it was in the car still, will cause it to drain faster. Small things in the car are always pulling energy from the battery. Clock, computers etc. Most likely, nothing is wrong with your car, but you never know. If you are going to let it sit for such long periods, I would suggest a "Battery Tender". This will charge your battery outright and then continuely keep it charged over time. You leave it hooked up all the time. They cost around $40 to $50 bucks. Good luck.

The noise is probably your belt tensioner pulley. I bought one at AutoZone for like $65.00, but it is a pain to replace. I started the job and then gave up after I had a brainstorm!!! You simply remove the serpentine belt by wrenching on the belt tensioner, then remove the single bolt holding the pulley on. If you have access to a press, you simply press the old bearing out and replace it. I bought the bearing from a local industrial supply house for like $3.75 I was back up and running in no time.

Here is a link through www.autobytel.com Unfortunately, it's in the Chicago area. http://www.autobytel.com/content/buy/lm/us...es_vch/SC%20300

The part your looking for is called a "rod end clip". One of our companies makes them and they cost about $0.01 each. I would call Lexus, they may actually sell that part alone. If not, you can try an automotive parts store like Autozone, they carry some generic parts that might do the trick. If that does'nt work, you can mail the part to me and I can see if I can locate one for you.

I paid $203.37 for a Denso rebuilt. It was rebuilt by Denso, so I was assured it is top notch quality. I was going to install it myself, but then I called around for the hell of it, and Pep Boys quoted me $61.00 to install. So I said what the heck!! So, for a total of $264.37 I was back up and running.

Sorry I didn't see this question earlier. To change the whole pully is a big pain in the a**. But, what you really need to change is the bearing!!!! The pully only can be removed in a minute or two. Simply place a large screw driver or other wedge by the pully, release the tension of the spring and remove the serpentine belt. Then remove the single bolt on the front of the pully. You will need a small press to press the old bearing out. Then you can go to an industrial bearing store, like Berry Bearing in the Chicago area and they can size it and find a replacement. I did this and it cost me like $4.00 instead of $75.00 for the entire assembly (not Lexus brand of course) and 4 hours worth of work. It is a lot of work to remove the whole assembly, so I recommend bearing replacment first.

I don't know how good these CD's are, but they are cheap compared to the Lexus factory manuals. Check the E-Bay link below. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2455827335

I would be interested in any short cuts you could provide to replace plugs and other tune up components!!!!

I lost my heat for a few minutes the other day. To give a little background, I had my antifreeze changed about 10 days ago. They used a fancy gizmo to suck out the old while putting in the new at the same time. When they finished, I asked if they were going to burp or bleed the system to remove air from the block. He said they did not have to do that with this fancy system. Anyway, for about 8 days everything seemed fine, until I stomped on the gas after the light turned green. All of a sudden, I could feel my air getting colder and colder. I pulled over and revved the engine and I could hear gurgling noises. I thought I had a leak. Finally the gurgling stopped and the air started to get warmer and warmer. Now all is well again. I think my engine needed to burp!!! So, If I were you, I would try opening the bolt near the top and front of the engine to remove air from the block. I think you do this slowly while the engine is running, but don't quote me on that.

Most likely the "rod end clip" has come loose. This is a plastic piece that connects little rods inside the door to release the latch mechanism when the handle is pulled. It is probably in the way of the window going down. You will most likley have to remove the door trim panel and look inside it to fix it. Good luck!!

If you search the older section of the SC forum and look for "heater control valve" or "air mix servo motor" you should get some hits. These are the two causes I know of for cold air blowing. (This is from experience) The first thing (and easiest) to check is the heater control valve which is located in the engine bay, on the firewall, passenger side. It is near the top of the engine bay and very easy to access. There is two vacuum lines going into the valve. You can try swapping the vacumm lines and see if it works. If it does, you can leave it this way until you can get a new or used valve. If this does'nt work, you can perform a self diagnostic using the built in diagnostic of the climate control system. While turning the car key from off to the start position, simultaneously hold the Temperature control knob and the recirculate button. The system will go into self diagnostic. It will automatically index through the various system settings and flash a code if there is a problem. Mine came up with a code 41, which means there was a problem with the air mix servo motor. If you do the test in low light, you may get a code 21, this is the solar sensor circuit and is nothing to worry about. Try the tests and let us know.

Here is a link for the wiring color codes for a 1995 SC400 http://www.lextreme.com/sc95.pdf When I take the plunge, I will try and document the process, hopefully with pictures, and post an update.

I found this link from Bulldogsecurity.com It is the wire colors for the 99-00 SC400. I wonder if this is the same for 95?? I don't know how to make it a link. so you'll have to cut and paste. I will read my Lexus repair manual over the next few days and see what I can dig up on panel removal. http://bulldogsecurity.com/New%20Wires/New...sc400-99-00.htm

Has anyone installed a remote starter/alarm on their SC400? If so, how difficult? Do you have the wiring diagram? How difficult was it to wire. Is the bottom of the dash on the drivers side easy to remove? etc. I just did a remote start/alarm on a 2002 Honda Civic and it required the a key transponder bypass module, I assume the Lexus would be the same. Any help you could provide would be appreciated

I'm pretty sure that it is for the phone. Mine had it too, even though it did not have a phone. I assume it is cheaper to build the car with the wires in place for the antenna so the dealer doesn't have to rip the car apart to install the phone's antenna.

Try Broadway Auto at 708-371-9300. They have an SC300 and an SC400 for parts. They're in the Chicago area. Maybe they'll give you a better price and ship it to you.

Believe me, I keep my Lex washed and waxed at all times. I'm just want to prevent the tar from happening in the first place. I have all the goodies when it comes to cleaning the car, including about 3 types of tar/wax remover. But thanks for the advice.