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fjstl

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Everything posted by fjstl

  1. I believe this can be closed out. The dealer replaced the complete ebrake assembly and seems to have resolved my problem. Thanks to everyone for their advice.
  2. as it turns out, according to the dealership, the ebrake components have to be replaced - at their cost - since they are causing havoc with the calipre. I hope this resolves the problem.
  3. for what it's worth, I duplicated the problem starting directly from my driveway today. It started from 5mph and continued right up to about 40, where at that time I had to slow down. I drove to a mechanic who I use for my other cars and he rode with me and the same problem continued. He believes that a brake calipre is hanging but couldn't determine which one. The trani brackets, drive shaft, bushings etc., all check out to be ok.
  4. I searched the threads and couldn't any issues similar to this one. My car has 150000 miles and while while driving this week, I experienced severe rear vibration. I thought I had a flat tire and checked it; turned out that the rear snow tires were fine. I then proceded to about 65mph, when the vibration occurred again. I then droved it to the Lexus dealership. They said I needed to have the rear brakes replaced - a lot of rust and pads wearing unevenly. They replaced rotors, pads, and shims. Drove the car 10 miles and the vibration occurred again. I returned to the dealership and they balanced all 4 tires. The mechanic said that the snow tires, which are General Altimax Arctic, are a softer compound and when driven fast could cause the tire to come out of balance for a few minutes. I then brought the car to where I purchased the tires, and they said the tires are fine. Tonight, while driving about 20 mph, the vibration occurred and did not end until after about 5 minutes, when I stopped for a few moments. The trani seems fine, but the vibration continues even after taking my foot off the gas pedal. Has anyone experienced this or have a solution. The dealership is clueless.
  5. What solution is used to clean the sunroof mechanism on a 98 LS 400. I searched the site but I'm unable to find the answer to this question. It seems that my roof won't remain closed after pressing the close switch and when it appears to be closed, it opens immediately. I want to try cleaning it before bringing it elsewhere. After cleaning, what do you use to lubricate it? A friend of mine had a similar problem with a different make of car and his mechanic cleaned and lubed it and it was fixed.
  6. around town I get about 20 and on the hiway about 27 with cruise set at 75.
  7. I did a search and couldn't find my answer. I always use sunoco 93 octane gas. does anyone know if 91 octane would cause any performance problems. thanks.
  8. My 98 LS is finally fixed. When I mentioned about the suggestions from this group on the web I was advised to drop it off and it would be fixed once and for all. They cleaned the throttle body and what a difference this made. The idle is now about 730 and it runs fantastic for a car with 115K on it. The mpg has also improved from about 26 on the hiway to about 28. Thanks for the suggestions.
  9. Hmmmm, the factory specs for the car actually say Idle speed (Transmission in neutral, all loads off, No A/C): 750 ± 50 rpm. Your transmission will be fine even at the higher idle, but the cause for concern is them not knowing any better. My $10 says they have not set it in the correct position, as per the attached PDF file. Take it back to them and say the power of the internet is on your side! The technical background is ; The 98 year was the first to incoporate the electrically controlled throttle. The idle speed is controlled by the Electric Throttle Control System (ETCS). ETCS is composed of the throttle motor to operate the throttle valve, the magnetic clutch to connect the throttle motor with the throttle valve, the throttle position sensor to detect the opening angle of the throttle valve, the accelerator pedal position sensor to detect the accelerator pedal position, the ECM to control the ETCS and the one valve type throttle body. The ECM controls the throttle motor to make the throttle valve opening angle properly for the target idle speed. If the accelerator position sensor is not set correctly the car will be given a false position. Not much, but probably enough to raise you idle rpm. Hope this sorts it. thanks for the reply and I'll go with your suggestion. thanks again
  10. the check engine light came on to my 98 LS 400 with 115K. My dealer said it was a bad accelerator position sensor. I had them change it along with a new battery. The cost to install and replace the sensor was around $525 and the battery was 175. The price was high but I had nowhere else to go for the repair. Prior to bringing in the car for repair it idled in neurtral at about 650rpm's when warm. It now idles around 980 when warm. I advised the dealer of this and they checked it again on their equipment and then advised me that it was within specs for a car this old and with 115K. They also said that there weren't any other adjustments that could be made to lower the rpm's. I'm afraid this could damage the transmission. Any suggestions?
  11. I'm looking for a detailer who is vg with the porter cable as I have some scratches that won't blend in with normal lite rubbing compound.
  12. the check engine light came on my 98 LS 400 and after arriving home, it just quit running. I had to have it towed to the dealer for diagnostics and repair and it turned out the mice chewed through the map flow sensor wire where it connects to the unit. Oh, it also ate through the windshield washer hose. Does anyone know what can be placed on or near the engine compartment that might prevent these critters from attacking the enging, etc.? I did a search and couldn't find anything on this.
  13. I also have a 98 LS 400 with 97k and no one has ever indicated anything about cleaning the throttle body. Should it be done and at what interval if needed?
  14. I had the same problem with my previous 97 LS 400. Changing the plug wires and caps resolved the problem.
  15. Threadcutter, what is the name of the product you used?
  16. fj: With all due respect to everyone, I believe your motor (all by itself) is probably working fine, given that it does open and close the sunroof. I've never seen any electrical schematics for the sunroof system, but I would tend to think that there are sensors/switches that open up to "signify" an "end of travel" condition. In other words, even if you continue to press the button/switch for a particular direction after the sunroof has reached it's mechanical limit(s), the internal limit switch will open up and not allow the flow of current to the motor any longer for that direction of travel. This automatically overrides manual control and prevents the motor from being overloaded/overcurrented/burned out because it's at the end of it's mechanical travel. For the time being, I would leave it (the sunroof) closed and do some research on what the electrical control system actually "looks like" from a schematic persective. After you've done that, you'll probably have to pull the headliner to gain access to the limit switches. My guess is that there's a front/closed limit switch that isn't working properly. Don't be surprised if the switch/sensor is actually located in the back area of the sunroof opening. It might even be that the reason is that the drains are clogged & (rain)water has gotten into the limit switch and damaged it. I do concurr with SK that it probably is either sensor(s) or loose/broken wire(s). I wouldn't take the headliner off & go on an "easter egg hunt" until I had reviewed the schematics. TIZ I think if you're a little patient & do your homework, this will probably actually be a cheap, easy fix.
  17. I completed a search and found nothing on this topic. I have a 98 ls 400 with 80k. When I press the button to open the sun roof, it remain open. When I press the button to close it, it closes but then immediately reopens when it reaches the closed point. Noe, in order to close it, I have to keep tapping the button and it will eventually reach the close state and remain there. Has anyone experienced this problem?
  18. I also have a 98 LS and it has 84k. I plan on changing the timing belt and water pump within the next 3-5000 miles and that's mostly because of not knowing for sure of the type of engine it has. I was advised by my dealer that the engine is non-interference, but that was after first being told by a different advisor that it was interference. I've read thru the threads and I'd like to know where to obtain the definitive answer on whether or not the 98 LS 400 is non'interferance. I'd hate to lose an engine because the dealer didn't know what he was talking about.
  19. that's what it looked like to me, but I just wanted to be sure. thanks.
  20. I did a search and couldn't find anything on this, which I believe is unusual. I was advised that a mouse got under the hood of my car and ate part of the hood insulation. It then ate through the washer hose causing it not to spray, which I now need to replace. The dealer wants $120 but it looks like I can fix it for less than $10 if I can receive instructions on how wo remove the insulation near the washer sprayers. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  21. I appreciate everyone's input and I'll be replacing the one V rated tire. Thanks again.
  22. I have a 98 ls400 with three H rated tires and one V rated. Will this cause any problems, like vibration etc.? I did a search and coundn't find anything that addresses this issue. thanks.
  23. Can you elaborate on that? B) I realized that the tire size was incorrect.
  24. thanks to all who replied. I have it straightened out now. thanks again.
  25. I sold my 97 LS 400 with 180,000 and just purchased a 98 LS 400 with 80,000. Because I live in the northeast, I need snow tires and used Blizzacks on the rear of the 97 and the tire size was 225 x 60 x 16. the size tire for the 98 is 225 x 50 x 16. I don't know the difference between the 60 vs 50 series. Does anyone know if the tire will fit on the 98 Lexus? thanks.
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