jimcyzfr1

the light will return, that is just not a good intake on this car, cause turbulent air flow through mass ait meter and intake air temp sensor with no piggyback ecu to control this issue from what i have heard only 2 good intakes the "srt" and area 51 intakes both use the piggyback ecu and actually make more power witout cel. others cause cel and actually lose power just my 2 cents

that chip/module is crap z1 module right? it wires in to the air intake temp sensor which is part of th emass air flow meter of the is300, see my earlier post, it will only cause a check engine lamp, it does trick the ecu into thinking the incoming air is about 40-50% cooler than it is but causes cel, verified this temp drop using snap-on vantage scanner being that I work at a nissan dealership, highly recommend send it back. it is garbage

:( okay you need to sell it back it does not work an dturns on the check engine lamp. I work for nissan dealership and installed myselt the z1 module you speak of. I used snap on vantage scanner to get wiring diagram and prior to install took readings to see if it would even work. prior to install at full operatint temp intake air temp read 110 deg. with ambient "outside" air temp of 72 degrees. installed sensor as per instrucs and used wire diagram for proper 2 wires out of the 5. car started ran fine but check engine lamp on after 3 runs of less than 5 minutes. I then took after reading "note I cleared the intake air temp sensor code prior to retest" at full operating temp intake temp in scanner read 43 degrees out side air temp at 71 degrees. so yes the module tricks ecu that air going in is cooler but turns on the "cel" so what good is it? sell it not to mention the guy i bought it from will not respond and failed to respond at all even after I gave him the details I just posted to you guys. take their other sug, add header, down pipe, o2 simulators to keep "cel" off and go with srt intake with ecu piggyback kit.

yes the strut can make that noise too but less common, you can disassemble the front brakes and use hightemp brake greas on the back of pads at all contact points to eliminate or at least lessen the noise to almost nothing. this is not just a lexus/toyota issue many manufacturers use this and it is normal. basically you are hearing the pad slide and click against the caliper when engaged in either forward or reverse. some aftermarket pads have less play but may make squeal noises due to compound differences?

2 TENS OR 1 TWEVLE OF HIGH HIGH QUALITY IS AWSOME, IF USING THE STOCK HEADUNIT BUY AN AMPLIFIER THAT CAN USE A SPEAKER LEVEL INPUT SO YOU CAN TAP DIRECTLY TO THE REAR SPEAKERS FOR SIGNAL OR BY A PERIFERAL BOX $20-40.OO WITH TAPS THE SPEAKER WIRES IN BACK AND GIVES YOU RCA JACKS FOR EASY HOOK UP THE NEXT STEP IS KEY. BUT AN AMP THAT HAS A REMOTE BASS/SUBWOOFER ADJUSTER KNOB THAT CAN BE MOUNTED UP BY DRIVER. THAT WAY YOU ARE NOT TURNING THE BASS UP THROUGH ALL SPEAKERS WHEN JUST TRYING TO TURN UP SUBS. THIS IS THE BEST WAY. MANY AMPS HAVE THIS STANDARD OR AS OPTIONS BUT IS A MUST. THAT WAY YOU DONT GET MAJOR DISTORTION OUT OF YOUR FULL RANGE SPEAKERS WHEN THE VOLUME IS CRANKED AND YOU GET FULL ADJUSTABILITY OF SUBS INDEPENDANTLY. KICKER/ROCKFORD FOSGATE AND A NUMBER OF OTHER AMPS HAVE THIS FEATURE. CHECK CRUTCHFIELD CALL BY PHONE TO ANY SHOP THEY CAN TELL YOU IT IS VERY EASY. BASICALLY JUST RUN A WIRE WITH A SMALL KNOB INTO PASSENGER COMPARTMENT AND MOUNT DISCREETLY IN CONSOLE. EMAIL BACK WITH ANY ?'S JIMCURRIER@SBCGLOBAL.NET

LEXTACY KIT IS BEST WAY TO GO BUT AGAIN THE RADIO YOU ARE OUT OF LUCK THEY WILL STAY ORANGE UNLESS YOU GO AFTERMARKET AND EVEN SO I THINK THE TEMP CONTROLS ETC ARE ORANGE. BUT STLL LOOKS MUCH BETTER. DON'T USE CAPS INSTALL THE BLUE LEDS FOR THE CLEAN LOOK YOU SEE ON THEIR SITE

i would have to agree with the srt intake pipe, with the piggyback ecu makes a difference, almost all others are actually loosing power gaining only noise. the ecu is the reason for the price difference but would you pay less just to have it loud and possibly loose power? anyone used the obx headers, noting them on ebay for $249 new. sounds great and headers are hard to wrong with aside from the fit? only concern is check engine lamp due to loss of cats, anyone with expierence help us out on this matter, just not ready for the cost of a turbo and really need to get some more power to this with the boggy auto shift tranny. Thanks oh and can you let me know where to buy the SRT intake and what price is competitive! :D

take a large piece of plastic like a for sale sign and roll it up to funnel shape or buy a trans fill funnel long and slender, snake it down or up from bottom into position then quickly drop filter into full let oil drain onto filter and into funnel, funnel should b long enough to let you aim all oil off of components and into pan waiting at bottom, better yet place a 1 foot lengh of heater hose on end of funnel and that way it will flow all the way out of undercarriage no mess.it works great if done right.

just my thoughts guys being a service advisor in a nissan dealership I would recommend a service contract but bargain for the price they are negotiable and depending on the company that it is through can be very good. also most have a zero deduc option will cost slightly more. just do your research prior to purchase and bargain bargain bargain must of the contracts cost the dealers $500-1000 the rest is pure profit. just stand your ground they will sell cheap, just fight em cause its all commision to the finance director!!!

guys that lamp is telling you there is a failure not just maintenance and if it came back so soon there is definately an issue, take it in and have it diagnosed. I work for a local nissan dealership as a service advisor. the nissans all have this light. now there are a few different lights. "service engine soon" "maintenance required" "check engine" "or the orange/red engine picture" are some examples most tell you there is an emissions failure not that normal oil changes etc need to be done. each is different but by the sound of it you need more than just a reset. have it checked at least then repair it yourself if possible. feel free to email me with ?'s i am just learning about my is300 have only had it 3 weeks but could put some calls in to the local lexus here and possibly get ahold of a tech and get some answers but you will need to supply me with the fault code that is triggering the lamp. my work email is: jim.currier@stevenscreeknissan.com good luck

lexus IS300 2001, bought used 3 weeks ago 67k miles. stock with auto trans. now be warned order zi performance module from ebay for approx $40 after shipping. Installed professionally by myself. I work at a local Dealership and took before and after readings using snap-on vantage scanner. only wires inbetween intake air temp sensor and ecu to basically fool ecu to thinking cooler intake air temps that portion did work reduction approx 40% but caused check engine lamp? not sure if unit failed but got no response from seller! Do not use this gimmick. just my 2 cents. returned to stock and now looking into a headerkit and down pipe then muffler upgrade but not wanting to get too obnoxiously loud any suggestions? :)