stcist2

sounds like a preety good buy to me,i paid 14.3 and I have an 02 es 300 had 96000 when i bought it. has every option except AVS, and polished wheels

Sounds like some good advice..

check the timing belt.

The alignment is not effected when it is disassebled(and reassembled) properly.

What year car and how many miles?

130, 000 KM (yr 2002).

I don't think that 130,000 KM= 120,000 miles. should be 60 0r 70,000 miles. right?

Have you investigated the possibility of replacing the EMS shocks/struts with nonEMS shocks/struts, and just disable the system..? If the dealership acknoleges the problem yet has not done anything to remedy it, would they be willing to give you blue book value on your vehicle on a trade for one that does not have this problem (ie;nonEMS)..? I can see how you are very frustrated about this as if it was my car I would be pretty *BLEEP*ed Off, to say the least...I mean common NOW you are told that an option which sounds good on paper , paid for as an added option, is something you should never do? a little late is it not? Have you considered getting an attorney and taking it to the next level? Or just sell the damned thing and buy a honda? I wouldn't blame you... Another option; contact some of the "better" Lexus dealers mentioned in this forum and see if they would be able to do something that would make you both happy? I really feel for you and hope that you find your way through this one...Merry Christmas?...

OTHER THREAD CLOSED..SO I RE-POSTED

Have you checked ALL the fuses?

Have you investigated the possibility of replacing the EMS shocks/struts with nonEMS shocks/struts, and just disable the system..? If the dealership acknoleges the problem yet has not done anything to remedy it, would they be willing to give you blue book value on your vehicle on a trade for one that does not have this problem (ie;nonEMS)..? I can see how you are very frustrated about this as if it was my car I would be pretty *BLEEP*ed Off, to say the least...I mean common NOW you are told that an option which sounds good on paper , paid for as an added option, is something you should never do? a little late is it not? Have you considered getting an attorney and taking it to the next level? Or just sell the damned thing and buy a honda? I wouldn't blame you... Another option; contact some of the "better" Lexus dealers mentioned in this forum and see if they would be able to do something that would make you both happy? I really feel for you and hope that you find your way through this one...Merry Christmas?...

have you checked the quality of the ground supplied to the IACV? have you checked the voltage being applied by the ECM? ever heard of current ramping? I know it is used to help diag fuel pumps could also be used to check the current (amps) being used by the electric motor in the IACV ...It is possible that both the IACV valves are defective...I've even seen brand new dealer parts defective right out of the box!!!! May even need to eliminate the possibility that all of the other systems in the car are function normally by unplugging the IACV and create a controlled vaccuum leak; i used to have a fish tank air valve that i could control a vaccuum leak very precisely...my first guess would be the ground having a voltage drop(resistance)..check for voltage(millivolts) from the battery ground to the groung side of the plug to the IACV...just my two cents

oh and a link to current ramping here....>http://www.auto-video.com/current-ramping-p-14.html

The one that is bothering me the most is the right rear door, apparenly the insulation adhesive has come loose and rattles inside the door. Although it seems that it only happens now that the weather has gotton really cold, I believe that this car was probably in a heated garage all of its life (until now) and the previous owner never realized it. Sometimes I get a small click out of the windshield too, but when the temp outside is 3 I kinda expect some noise. I will probably wait until spring time and pull the door panel and re-glue the insulation. Sorry to hear about all the rattles in your car is it still under warranty? I have 114000 on the odometer and my warranty was up about 4000 miles after I bought the car so I'm on my own, but I have been a profesional mechanic for more than 10 years and fixing cars is a passion of mine so I really don't mind, especially since this is the most exspensive and nicest car I have ever owned.

If memory serves me, the applications for the Mobil-1 ATF seem to be word for word for whats writen on the AMS OIL bottle, same do's and don'ts, I would be inerested in using this ATF(Mobil-1) as I use the same brand of engine oil...

Christmas

This is the thread I was looking for.

you could just stuff a piece of foam in there just make sure you take it out before you try opening the sunroof...

Update, I found that when driving down the road if I push on the arm rest the noise stops and even when I let go it stays away for a couple miles. feels like there may be some sort of adhesive behind the door panel that let go in the extreme cold weather. I looked at the trim at the bottom of the door and also inspected the seat belt extender, neither seem like they could be the problem. It did get up in the double digits today but still too cold to mess with it. One thing that I did notice is the lack of holes for screws that hold the armrest on, is there a trick to getting it off?(this would not be my first door panel removal as I've done hundreds, but prior experience is invaluble and I've never done a Lexus)

too cold for lexy to start today it was in the -5 degrees range and i suppose she'll need a battery soon too, had to drive the jeep, talk about cold...put the charger on her and got her started I'll see if she'll start tomarrow and look at the trim at the bottom of the door. otherwise getting a new battery seems to be the priority for the near future.. thanks for your help and I'l keep you posted.,..

when I first switched to synthetic my es used a full quart between oil change, since then it has used none,two more oil changes done at 5000 miles each..

when I replaced the belts on my car I noticed a lot of rubber build up on the pulleys so I carefully scraped off what I could and then used a wire brush to finish them. All the noise I had before was gone. Also brand new belts go on a little tighter than normal as they will stretch as they break in...

All they have to do is remove a peice of weatherstripping from the base of the door, and the problem will be solved. They just did it to mine. Its very common on the ES.

is this possibility of my rattling noise from my rear doors? could you post a pic of the piece they removed? wouldn't that cause a wind leak? thanking you in advance

Stan

ok, I'll give that a try on my trip tomarrow, do you mean at the top of the shoulder belt or near the lap portion?

nice work. very talented..

p/s they do make clear electrical tape just FYI

I was going to suggest clear packing tape, but an even better idea is to just replace the broken lights.

I guess that's not the cool way to do it though. I don't know what his last reply said since it wasn't in common English, but I think he referred to racing it somehow. I don't know, I can't read Ebonics.

Ha ha... maybe he plans on crashing it and does not want to have to pick up all the parts lying on the ground..?

Is he refering to cylinder compression readings? Did they test more than one cylinder? Cranking compression should be around 120 to 150 psi or higher. on a high mileage engine possibly 90 to 100 psi. At 0 psi the engine will not run, if mechanicly ok I would check for restricted exhaust, have them measure cranking vaccuum, it will tell you alot about the engine...

Will it start when you hold the card close to the key?

The ABS system resets itself everytime you turn the ignition off..