da_fugative_7

When I switched over to synthetic, I just changed over my gaskets. They were in fairly good condition, but I wanted everything nice, tight, new and clean. I don't know if they would've started leaking after the oil switch, but I seriously doubt that changing from dino to synthetic will cause your engine to leak oil. I also think it has something to do with how the P.O. maintained the car...IMO....

I got mine from Advanced Auto Parts (OEM)...very easy to install..to me no time to install...Good Luck

I don't think Amsoil will hurt anything, but whether it's worth the extra money or superior to the Toyota/Lexus fluids is doubtful.

I can't imagine you're talking about a 9 iron in golf....or is it a metric designation? In imperial measure I prefer a .45 inch....

Thanks for your input SDK...I appreciate it...but when I mention 9, I'm not talking about golf, I'm talking about a 9mm gun...No, I don't advocate violence but it's just a term/statement of basically saying let's use intellegence instead of resorting to violence...

Steering pump, hoses, alternator, and starter. Did all of these fail at the same time? Seems odd to have to have to do some many major items at once. Are they all unrelated?

LEAVE YOUR WIFE AND KIDS @ HOME & HEAD OUT FOR BATTLE 2 THE GOLF COURSE WITH DA BOYS

I was a victim of the infamous failing power steering pump...pump leakes fluid on the altenator, altenator start to short them both eventually die....as far as my starter, it just died being that my Lexus is a '91....

The manual calls for Toyota Type IV in the trans, and Dexron ( of any designation ) in the power steering system.

As far as I am concerned, Amsoil is used by people who once were, or perhaps still are, Moonies. Strictly cult stuff.

What does your signature mean?

Well...I'm not part of a cult or part of the Moonies ...but I just hope that it doesn't mess up my car... :)

What my signature means is basically saying use intellegence instead of ignorance whenever you face hardships, situations, or circumstance... B)

I am replacing the powering steering pump, hoses, altenator, and starter. I ordered the AMSOIL SYNTHECTIC TRANS FLUID and will use it in place of the Toyota fluid. Has anyone used the AMSOIL? Can I get the pros & cons? Let me know.

I need the temperature display panel since my is blacked out...let me know if this is feasible...thanks in advance.

I had a similar problem with this and I had the trans fluid changed, cleaned the throttle body, and used seafoam and it became a rocket...it would be a good idea to check your trans mounts as well...

Ok...this morning, I noticed that my whole front end was dropped all the way to the ground....tried to start it up and got a click...all the lights in the interior came on and all the dash board lights lit up...took the battery out and took it to autozone since I have a warranty...they did a test and said that I was one cell low and informed me that something was pulling power from my battery...got the battery fully charged, put it back in the engine and that same thing happened. Got a jump from my lady and the car started....drove it to autozone and they checked the stater, alt, and battery...the battery was only putting out 78% and they informed me that the alt was only pumping out < 30amps and starter needed to be replaced. Well, got the alt and starter replaced May '09, so I'm curious to how it can go bad in a year along with the starter. In addition to that, I'm wondering if the loss of power is causing the air suspension to malfunction...? Please help before I start to order parts and do repairs!!!!!

I had my tranny drained and filled last April @ 225K...it was rough in gears 1 & 2 but after I did the drain and fill, it shifted smoothly...on my next drain and fill, I'm switching to synthetic from AMSOIL...don't ever use jiffy lube; they put in the wrong filter and fluid type...fortunately, I caught it in time and got it completely service....with proper maintenance on your LEXUS, it will run forever and a day if you take care of it...

Did a little research and if I'm correct, that bolt comes complete with the belt tensioner accessory...I'm going to order that part from Rock Auto and have the part put on. If anyone got some suggestions for a different route, let me know...thanks for all your replies....

I just want to say thanks for all the replies...but let me say again, the belt is still in the tension pulley, the tension belt ring broke off and the screw broke off into the tension belt pulley...if I drive the car will the belt and/or tension belt pulley come off??? Thanks for your replies and enjoy your holiday weekend....

Yes you can drive it if it's not too far to the shop. Keeping in mind that you won't have any power steering and your brakes won't work nearly as good as normal, and your water pump will not be circulating any coolant.

There won't be a problem with the water pump as this is driven off the cam belt not the serpentine belt,brakes will not be affected as these are powered from the brake booster not connected to the serpentine belt,you will have no power steering,no battery charging or air conditioning with the belt off.

The serpentine belt is still on...I never got a chance to get it off...I guess my concern is the tension pulley coming off when the engine is running since the ring broke off and/or the belt coming off...My mechanic is less than a five minute drive but i don't want to pay extra money for a tow fee since he is so close...any suggestions....?

I figured it out...for some reasons the air shocks lowered because of this slight bump and incline in front of my house...don't know why...and for the record...my ride ain't pimped yet... B)

I was trying to replace my serpentine belt and broke the screw off in the tension pulley. The tension ring also came off...Just wondering if I can drive it to my mechanic without messing up the end the engine and etc....?

wondering why my front end has dropped overnight...anyone got a answer for this...?

My Rpm needle went dead just recently...haven't found a fix but perhaps a sensor or wire...we'll see...as far as spark plugs, I'm using the E3 sparkplug and it is working really well...

That's a good...makes the best of your investment and please post some of the fixes that you do...good luck...

ok...finally had a chance to work on the tachometer...tried all of sort of quick fixes and nothing is working.... oh well, let me take it 2 my mechanic and see what he says and how much it will cost..

All of you all have jokes...it's a good thing that I have a sense of humor...*lol*...ok, tachometer...is that better....anywhay..thanks for the advice...I will try all of them. If anyone else thinks of anything else, please let me know...thanks....

I don't know if this has been posted but my RPM gauge just stopped working when I was driving on the highway. Can anyone help me with this as far as what is the problem(s) and how and what is needed to fix it? Thanks for all the help in advance.

You can get on from Sewell Lexus....just click on the link below for details....hope this helps....

http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/parts_detail.asp?id=63779

It's the end link, sway bars rarely ever just break on anything, they're a single piece of steel.

Thanks JDM...just wanted to know if this will be an easy fix?

Hi Fellas,

Most of you already know how expensive those new Lexus front upper control arms are. 1st Generation - $660.00 a piece from the dealer.

There are aftermarket bushings that you can install in the control arms but to my knowledge, no upper ball joints. When the ball joints wear out, you have no choice but to replace the control arm.

On the internet I have found some control arms as low as $177.00 for the right side and $154.00 for the left side but I do not believe they are original equipment.

But there is a cheaper fix if you can catch it early enough.

You can drill a whole at the top of the ball joint and add a grease fitting and grease the joint. The joint seems to be made the same as ones that come with a grease fitting but with no hole.

I did this on both of my upper control arm ball joints and it works great. You can also do this to the outer tie rod ends.

But you cannot do this on the lower ball joint - not yet anyway. I'm working on it.

If you catch it early enough, you can add this grease fitting and keep that ball joint greased and more than likely it will last the life of the car, then when your bushings/bearings wear out, you can replace them at a reasonable cost.

It seems to me that many car manufacturers are doing this, not making joints to where you can grease them. Can you say, " No Maintenance?" But when they wear out you have to replace them $$$ DUH! Just another way for them to make a buck.

My upper ball joints did have some slack in them and it seems by pumping the joint full of grease it really helped out. It made it much tighter and keeps the noise down. I changed the tie rod ends but I added grease fittings to the new ones. Hopefully I will never have to buy those again.

I took the control arms out to do this. If you have an angle drill, you might be able to do this with the control arms on the car.

1. Centerpunch the the center of the top of the joint. (Be careful not to tear the boot if you have it off the car.)

2. Drill a 1/8 pilot hole.

3. Redrill a 3/16 hole.

4. Using a tapered short straight grease fitting, start it into the hole and tighten it up. I got mine from NAPA Auto Parts.

5. Reinstall the control arm.

6. Pump it full of grease and you are done.

If you keep it greased on a regular basis, it should last the lifetime of the car. The upper control arm ball joint has very little pressure on it compared to the lower ball joint. This means that you will not ever have to buy a $$$ new $$$ upper $$$ control $$$ arm.

Jerry

Sad to say that I have to get the control arms & balls joints replaced soon. My mechanic quoted me $678 (parts & labor included). I'll put a bug in his ear about putting grease fitting on. this will keep me from paying alot of $ over a period of time. thanks for the tip.