cactuseater

Well.... time to part with the SC400. Just turned 106K on the ODO, used it for 10K and it's been a joy. I love the car, but have the itch. Just found a gorgeous IS350 2006 for sale out here, and I'm gonna trade my SC400 and a 2009 Hyundai Sonata Limited V6 in on it. Hoping that leaves me with about 4k to finance. Lexus Certified, so I get a 3 years warranty gig and 100K on the mileage for the 2006 IS350. Not a bad deal I think. I originally paid $6400 for the SC, and had to reduce my asking price down to $5800 to get bites. Finally have two bites that look good, otherwise it goes to the dealer for trade this week sometime. I'll probably end up with less $$ at the dealership, but at least I'll have about $21K trade equity combined for the IS350 deal. That and the 3 year Lexus Certified warranty and I'm feeling good about it. :)

And for the sub, make sure it is a "Free Air" subwoofer or you'll be depressed at what you've done. Otherwise you will need to build an enclosure for your aftermarket sub.

SORRY about the double post, forum is loading really slow this afternoon...... :(

And for the sub, make sure it is a "Free Air" subwoofer or you'll be depressed at what you've done. Otherwise you will need to build an enclosure for your aftermarket sub.

Power Steering pump started to leak big time, just replaced it too. Now that was pricey, $300.00 minus a $75 core. Hopefully this is it.... about $1500 invested so far into this car. Anymore and I'll be doing the cash for clunkers gig with it (LOL).

Good job; did you replace idler pulleys, etc, too?

Nope.... didn't need them. They were in perfect condition. The adjuster is hydraulic, pretty much straightforward inside the case. The only thing I am kicking myself for right now is I should have looked carefully at the power steering pump before I put it back on. Damn thing is leaking right now from the pump. Hoses are good. Bummer. Off to the parts store tomorrow for a rebuilt. Little leak, big mess. Res is almost full, but that stuff makes a mess under the engine with dirt. When I did the timing belt the undercarriage was clean and dry. :(

I too replaced the stock 4" drivers in the doors and the deck with drop in Infinity's. No problem as long as you use the same impedence. Didn't want to invest thousands into an audio system, just wanted to get rid of the dry rotted speakers. The sub right now looks and sounds perfect, however I know for certain that after market subs - even cheapos - blow this stock one away. That Kenwood install looks great in the car. I found that the head unit alone with Navi is about $1500 USD. That's crazy - about 1/4 the value of the car - then add to that some MB Quart speakers and some clean power - watch your account drain. This economy right now doesn't justify it, unfortunately. Eventually I may convert the head unit and do a complete install, but am afraid of installing an audio system worth more than the car.

i have a 95 sc400 and would like to know wat can cause my car to die out well i was going to work and restart up within 5hr and run fine can a transmission cooler cause it

Died out? Did the check battery light come on before this happened? It could be an Alternator/Battery problem. Check your system to see if it is charging. The battery could be shorting out as the unit becomes hot...thus the plates could touch. As it cools, the battery plates could separate again - and let you start back up. Sooner or later (actually sooner) you will experience a completely dead car. You should have 14V DC or more on the charge with a load on the car (headlights, AC). A voltmeter on the battery terminals will give you an indication of you are getting the proper charge. My 95 SC400 did the same thing, and this was the fix.

I have just acquired a 1992 sc400 with the Nakamichi sound system (7 speakers, 12 cd changer) but would like to be able to play mp3's I have recorded on cd's. Possibilities as I see them: 1) ditch the Nakamichi head unit and replace it with a JVC KD-sh99 which is a very good head unit which can hopefully be connected to cd changer. , 2) be able to use an ipod either connected to Nakamichi or separate sound system. I am hesitant to ditch the Nakamichi for fear it is better quality than the sh99 or any other similar head. Comments would be appreciated.

You can still do this without throwing out the NAK system. Rip the MP3 CD's onto iTunes in your computer, select a new playlist, then burn playlist as "Audio Files" instead of MP3. Worked perfect for me. Now I am just trying to figure out a way to actually hardwire a jack to the NAK system so I can use my iPod.

there is a way to hard wire one here is a link on ebay where a guy did it and is selling it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-Nakam...A1%7C240%3A1318

Hey that's pretty cool. Looks clean too. I'll have to check into this and contact him. Thanks!

i put in a new feul pump, new battery and it still wnt start so im gunna try a new fuel filter, i cant find it , can some ne help me with where it is and how to put in, i have the big manual downloaded but i cant find instructions in it, it sounds like it wants to start and it will turn over for just a sec then back to cranking again,

any help would be appreciatted

Fuel filter is an inline filter located along the frame on the driver's side of the car. Follow the fuel line and you'll have it in a few seconds....

I have just acquired a 1992 sc400 with the Nakamichi sound system (7 speakers, 12 cd changer) but would like to be able to play mp3's I have recorded on cd's. Possibilities as I see them: 1) ditch the Nakamichi head unit and replace it with a JVC KD-sh99 which is a very good head unit which can hopefully be connected to cd changer. , 2) be able to use an ipod either connected to Nakamichi or separate sound system. I am hesitant to ditch the Nakamichi for fear it is better quality than the sh99 or any other similar head. Comments would be appreciated.

You can still do this without throwing out the NAK system. Rip the MP3 CD's onto iTunes in your computer, select a new playlist, then burn playlist as "Audio Files" instead of MP3. Worked perfect for me. Now I am just trying to figure out a way to actually hardwire a jack to the NAK system so I can use my iPod.

just stick with oem. they have decent stopping power and no brake noise.

That's my thoughts thus far as well.

Wondering if anyone out there has had any luck with after market brake lining for this vehicle. I know my current and previous Toyota's were not happy with Raybestos, Napa, etc. When I would get OEM lining at the dealer it was flawless. Thanks!

thanks.

I suppose with that all torn down it is a good time to do distributers, power steering pump?

PS pump is in great shape, I think the previous guy replaced it sometime, the spark plugs are new as well. I am throwing on a set of wires since who ever did it screwed the insulation on a few wires. The caps and rotors look real good - especially the carbon nipple on the caps - that's usually gone. They look like new - the rotors have some wear. I see no deposits on the contacts in the caps at all. Never seen these things so clean before with this many miles. They look original from the front. But anyhow, I have a new set of caps and rotors on my bench and they are going in as well. Coils are new. Might as well since it's torn down that far...

Sorry about going off topic here.....

thanks for the info. Over a grand ouch.

Yeah, I can see why they get it, it's the "aggravation factor"

When you remove the seat, lean it back and remove the bolts for the front vertical adjuster. Lift the seat cushion up and remove the ECU for replacement.

Decided to tear the front down and get that timing belt replaced. I had an alternator die on me 3 days ago, stock unit at 99,000. I decided it's time to check the belt as well, glad I did. Took a new belt, and of course the new water pump. That's a pair - don't do one without the other since the pump is timing belt driven. I have to say it's a nightmare in terms of time involved, but otherwise straight forward. I can see now where Lexus gets well over 1K for this procedure, with parts just at about $200. Belt is a Goodyear at $50.00 and the pump was $169.00 new not rebuilt. I opted for a new pump since it's aluminum. Give yourself 2 days on this and don't rush it. Make sure you know where the bolts are from, a bunch of different lengths in there.

Alternator now charging at 14.4vdc under load, and tomorrow I finish putting the front end back together. Hint -- you DO NOT have to remove the radiator and hydraulic fan to get at this stuff. Also, make your own mark on the two overhead cams and the crank. You'll save about 3 hours work right there. I have some pictures and will upload them now.

Any questions about this R&R procedure and I'd be happy to answer them.

Picture are in order, you can see the old belt and the wear showing through the smooth side. The new water pump is that nice shiny thing toward the last picture, and the last pic has the new belt installed.

I understood what he meant, what my question is about, still stands. Where is the ECU physically located for the memory seats.

ECU for the memory seat function is underneath the driver's seat. Right in the middle. You nee to remove the front seat, it is attached to the underside. Just doing mine now as well, steering column worked, the seats all move manually --- but the mem button functions on the door were inop. Car has some down time now, I have the front of the engine torn down for a timing belt/water pump replacement, so I am ironing out all the little things that are bugging me since taking ownership of it two months ago.

I guess the last owner fainted when he got the estimate from Lexus to do all this stuff. The timing belt alone would've run him over a grand.

Anyhow -- remove the driver's seat and you'll see the ECU under the cushion in the center.

Sounds like the batt/alt. Check all your connections and charging system.

I just had this same exact problem. Went out with my wife and when we got into the car to go home, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they were loose. Tightened them and off I went. Next day I went to have BATT tested and it read 12.41 volts, checked out ok. I replaced the terminal connectors since they were no longer holding. Went with all lead terminals instead of the stock thin metal ones. Worked great for about 80 miles.

The second day I was on the highway and started to experience a battery light, headlights went dim, and poor engine performance. Got off at an exit, went to a fast food parking lot and the thing died, nothing - no lights - just a dead car. Waited a little while, about 30 minutes, and the car no miraculously had some power to the interior lights, but not enough to turn the engine. Checked to terminals again, they were tight. Looked for signs of leaking and percolation but nothing. Finally noticed the battery case itself was a slight bit "bulbous" in that the case was starting to distort and bulge indicative to a bad battery - the same one that tested fine 2 days earlier. The additional ambient heat (over 90 the past few days here in Phoenix) combined with the highway driving instigated possible shorting of plate in the battery itself. Common here in Arizona. When the battery and engine compartment cool down, the plates are no longer touching and thus a sort of tease thinking you have your electrical power back. Freaky huh?

I replaced the battery right there in the parking lot with a new one - and problem solved, runs like a champ. Now, I will have the charging system tested to ensure the alternator, etc. are working properly....but my guess the culprit as the old battery that did in fact show signs of age. The plates were crusted over when I looked into the vent tubes, along with not even the slightest spark when applying the terminal connectors as you would experience with a fully charged battery. I would guess that the lack of a tight connection (not charging well) and the age of the battery in combination with the heat wave this week killed the thing. These cars are electric everything, and a fresh battery is a must along with a frequent user check of the charging system and battery. Lesson learned tonight! :)

Reference the picture of my engine compartment on my album page under my profile. Check out the side panel on that battery, not looking too straight.

Few months ago, it was very cold here in Ohio below 0 degree. My battery 1 year old was also killed, thanks for AUTOZONE replaced brand new one without charge. I thought my Alternator was gone, but it was not after I removed the battery and brought to AUTOZONE for checkup. They told me it was shot, everytime, he added the load to it. Otherwise, it seems good condition, +12v without load.

I just found out the bad news as well. I had to grab an alternator today, and found out there are none in Phoenix from AutoZone, Checker, Pep Boys, - even BAP - a specialty parts store for the needle in a haystack parts. So I ordered one, $200 with a $45 core on the return. Should be here Monday according the Checker - that was the store with the shortest wait time on the part.

Put a load on the the thing and there was a small charge with higher RPM to none at all at idle. So, new battery on board and a new alternator Monday the 27th. :) Thankfully I have a friend (my guitarist!) that's a master mechanic specializing in high end foreign cars, to him it's a two hour gig. Me - all day.....

In addition to checking mounts, etc., make sure that the dude spinning your wheels is using a high speed spin balance. Most shops run them up to about 40-45 mph and send you out onto the road. That's OK for most cars, but I have noticed that Toyota (Lexus) products have limited tolerances for these things. Up to and including front end alignment - make sure they know how to work on this brand...it's a different animal. Insist they speed up on the machine for your balance. Run if they tell you they can bubble balance them!

Sounds like the batt/alt. Check all your connections and charging system.

I just had this same exact problem. Went out with my wife and when we got into the car to go home, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they were loose. Tightened them and off I went. Next day I went to have BATT tested and it read 12.41 volts, checked out ok. I replaced the terminal connectors since they were no longer holding. Went with all lead terminals instead of the stock thin metal ones. Worked great for about 80 miles.

The second day I was on the highway and started to experience a battery light, headlights went dim, and poor engine performance. Got off at an exit, went to a fast food parking lot and the thing died, nothing - no lights - just a dead car. Waited a little while, about 30 minutes, and the car no miraculously had some power to the interior lights, but not enough to turn the engine. Checked to terminals again, they were tight. Looked for signs of leaking and percolation but nothing. Finally noticed the battery case itself was a slight bit "bulbous" in that the case was starting to distort and bulge indicative to a bad battery - the same one that tested fine 2 days earlier. The additional ambient heat (over 90 the past few days here in Phoenix) combined with the highway driving instigated possible shorting of plate in the battery itself. Common here in Arizona. When the battery and engine compartment cool down, the plates are no longer touching and thus a sort of tease thinking you have your electrical power back. Freaky huh?

I replaced the battery right there in the parking lot with a new one - and problem solved, runs like a champ. Now, I will have the charging system tested to ensure the alternator, etc. are working properly....but my guess the culprit as the old battery that did in fact show signs of age. The plates were crusted over when I looked into the vent tubes, along with not even the slightest spark when applying the terminal connectors as you would experience with a fully charged battery. I would guess that the lack of a tight connection (not charging well) and the age of the battery in combination with the heat wave this week killed the thing. These cars are electric everything, and a fresh battery is a must along with a frequent user check of the charging system and battery. Lesson learned tonight! :)

Reference the picture of my engine compartment on my album page under my profile. Check out the side panel on that battery, not looking too straight.

Sounds like a computer is going nuts. Take it to a service center and have them plug diagnostic computer into the plug under the dash. I trust the battery is charged and the alternator is working.

I went to that site link, but it is for the Pioneer sound system. Is this the same wiring diagram for the Nakamichi system? I am looking to do the exact thing shown with the 2DIN application that is pictured with the Kenwood unit on this thread. Already replaced both front door speakers that were dry rotted, looking to replace the rear speakers sonn and grab a new head unit. Also, is it wise to just use the stock Nakamichi amp and wire the new head intot the existing harness? A lot less hassle, I think. But does anyone like Metra make a harness adapter that will mate? Almost forgot, 1995 SC400.

Hello,

i've found several good manuals how to manually pull Lexus engine codes (without code reader tool).

However i am not sure where code reader connectors is located in SC400. Some sources indicate it is located somewhere under steering wheel.

Where exactly to look?

The picture will certainly help.

Best regards,

Stan

'93 SC400 180k ...exported from US to EU

On my 95 sc400 it is under the dash, in the black trim panel left side.

On the trunk struts -- Lexus wants $307.00 for two. NUTS. Pep Boy's gets $14.99 each and Autozone has them for $11.99 each. Make sure they come with the ball socket & nipple for you will need them both. I grabbed mine at pep Boys since I wanted to install them right away, too many lumps on my head from the trunk lid.

Well here's the gig. I've replaced the ECU for the mirrors and it cured the problem instantly. Got the part from "ALIGA" and installed it immediately. Was not able to pictures, my SLR wouldn't fit into the spaces with my head behind it. They didn't make an awful lot of room in there for sure. But - I do know how to tear it apart MINIMALLY so that there is not a huge production to install it. it will take some time, and a lot of patience. The culprit is the top 10mm bolt (that is also slotted for a phillips) - the bottom bolt was a breeze. I had to use a 10mm open wrench with a closed end ratchet on the the other end. They have these at Sears, my wife got me a set for Xmas years ago. Glad she did. The ratchet end swivels, and that's the important part. To keep the wrench on the bolt, I came in from the front with a 3/8" socket extension so that one end was applying pressure on the wrench and the other end was in my only free hand.

I do not recommend this fix for anyone with lower back problems, it's rough on the body.

Basically, you remove the black plastic panel under the dash and unplug the led light and twist out the diagnostics plug. Then remove the lower dash trim panel and disconnect the connections for the trunk & gas filler door. Also twist out the ignition trim ring. Next remove the metal plate behind this trim panel. Remove the sensor (or is it an ionizer for the "fresh air" thing) from the metal panel. Remove the air duct leading from the center by the radio over to the left kick panel area. (more room to work, and easy to do) You will see one screw holding the duct on at the left side. Crawl under the dash and remove the first bolt holding the ECU. The top bolt is a bugger, you'll need to get your hand up there and place a closed end on it....then come in from the front with a long socket extension to apply pressure to keep the wrench on the bolt while you break it - there's very little room for leverage so don't waste time with a phillips driver, you'll be there for hours and will wind up with a stripped head and sore hands. I saw that coming when I tried it.

There's the fix - and man what a difference. Now when hillbilly's come up behind me with their Earthmover 4500's and their headlights in my rear mirrors, or the occasional hi-beamer - I can adjust them up to prevent going blind. Anyone ever attempts this feel free to look me up and ask....I can help guide you through it.

Best regards ---

hey guys, i'm somewhat of a n00b on here, but i definitely am no n00b to cars. car is 92 sc400

i pressure washed my engine bay yesterday (just the edges and by the firewall as best i could) and totally tried to avoid the engine and battery and all went well. then i drove home, which is about 2 miles away, and pulled into my driveway...

the car started randomly misfiring, then it started misfiring more, then more, until it finally stalled..... i started it back up and it was running very rough, misfiring horribly, back firing, and barely running. it's just like after 30 seconds or so after starting the engine cold, the engine starts dropping the ignition signal for some reason.

1. i disconnected all of the injectors and made sure their connectors were dry.

2. i took both distributor caps off and cleaned them because i thought there may have been water in them (there wasn't)

3. i reset the ECU and the car fired up just fine (it had been off for a couple hours at this point) then started doing the misfiring again, kept doing it, it got worse, etc. just like before.

i am thinking maybe i somehow messed up one or both of my ignition coils, or possibly the ECU. the weird thing is that the car runs PERFECTLY smooth for about 30 seconds after it has sat for a while, then starts the random misfiring that progresses into running horribly, stalling, and not wanting to start... CEL is NOT on.

anyone have any ideas?

Do a really close check on the spark plug inserts....when the wholesale joint cleaned my engine for detailing, water was inside the area where the spark plugs are in ONE of the cylinders causing a gross miss fire and some hesitation. Water just sits in there and will not drain on it's own - you'll need to blow it out. Blow out the spark plug areas with compressed air and you my have found the culprit :) Let me know if this is the gig....best regards...