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cactuseater

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Everything posted by cactuseater

  1. Well.... time to part with the SC400. Just turned 106K on the ODO, used it for 10K and it's been a joy. I love the car, but have the itch. Just found a gorgeous IS350 2006 for sale out here, and I'm gonna trade my SC400 and a 2009 Hyundai Sonata Limited V6 in on it. Hoping that leaves me with about 4k to finance. Lexus Certified, so I get a 3 years warranty gig and 100K on the mileage for the 2006 IS350. Not a bad deal I think. I originally paid $6400 for the SC, and had to reduce my asking price down to $5800 to get bites. Finally have two bites that look good, otherwise it goes to the dealer for trade this week sometime. I'll probably end up with less $$ at the dealership, but at least I'll have about $21K trade equity combined for the IS350 deal. That and the 3 year Lexus Certified warranty and I'm feeling good about it. :)
  2. And for the sub, make sure it is a "Free Air" subwoofer or you'll be depressed at what you've done. Otherwise you will need to build an enclosure for your aftermarket sub. SORRY about the double post, forum is loading really slow this afternoon...... :(
  3. And for the sub, make sure it is a "Free Air" subwoofer or you'll be depressed at what you've done. Otherwise you will need to build an enclosure for your aftermarket sub.
  4. Power Steering pump started to leak big time, just replaced it too. Now that was pricey, $300.00 minus a $75 core. Hopefully this is it.... about $1500 invested so far into this car. Anymore and I'll be doing the cash for clunkers gig with it (LOL).
  5. Nope.... didn't need them. They were in perfect condition. The adjuster is hydraulic, pretty much straightforward inside the case. The only thing I am kicking myself for right now is I should have looked carefully at the power steering pump before I put it back on. Damn thing is leaking right now from the pump. Hoses are good. Bummer. Off to the parts store tomorrow for a rebuilt. Little leak, big mess. Res is almost full, but that stuff makes a mess under the engine with dirt. When I did the timing belt the undercarriage was clean and dry. :(
  6. I too replaced the stock 4" drivers in the doors and the deck with drop in Infinity's. No problem as long as you use the same impedence. Didn't want to invest thousands into an audio system, just wanted to get rid of the dry rotted speakers. The sub right now looks and sounds perfect, however I know for certain that after market subs - even cheapos - blow this stock one away. That Kenwood install looks great in the car. I found that the head unit alone with Navi is about $1500 USD. That's crazy - about 1/4 the value of the car - then add to that some MB Quart speakers and some clean power - watch your account drain. This economy right now doesn't justify it, unfortunately. Eventually I may convert the head unit and do a complete install, but am afraid of installing an audio system worth more than the car.
  7. Died out? Did the check battery light come on before this happened? It could be an Alternator/Battery problem. Check your system to see if it is charging. The battery could be shorting out as the unit becomes hot...thus the plates could touch. As it cools, the battery plates could separate again - and let you start back up. Sooner or later (actually sooner) you will experience a completely dead car. You should have 14V DC or more on the charge with a load on the car (headlights, AC). A voltmeter on the battery terminals will give you an indication of you are getting the proper charge. My 95 SC400 did the same thing, and this was the fix.
  8. You can still do this without throwing out the NAK system. Rip the MP3 CD's onto iTunes in your computer, select a new playlist, then burn playlist as "Audio Files" instead of MP3. Worked perfect for me. Now I am just trying to figure out a way to actually hardwire a jack to the NAK system so I can use my iPod. there is a way to hard wire one here is a link on ebay where a guy did it and is selling it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus-Nakam...A1%7C240%3A1318 Hey that's pretty cool. Looks clean too. I'll have to check into this and contact him. Thanks!
  9. Fuel filter is an inline filter located along the frame on the driver's side of the car. Follow the fuel line and you'll have it in a few seconds....
  10. You can still do this without throwing out the NAK system. Rip the MP3 CD's onto iTunes in your computer, select a new playlist, then burn playlist as "Audio Files" instead of MP3. Worked perfect for me. Now I am just trying to figure out a way to actually hardwire a jack to the NAK system so I can use my iPod.
  11. Wondering if anyone out there has had any luck with after market brake lining for this vehicle. I know my current and previous Toyota's were not happy with Raybestos, Napa, etc. When I would get OEM lining at the dealer it was flawless. Thanks!
  12. PS pump is in great shape, I think the previous guy replaced it sometime, the spark plugs are new as well. I am throwing on a set of wires since who ever did it screwed the insulation on a few wires. The caps and rotors look real good - especially the carbon nipple on the caps - that's usually gone. They look like new - the rotors have some wear. I see no deposits on the contacts in the caps at all. Never seen these things so clean before with this many miles. They look original from the front. But anyhow, I have a new set of caps and rotors on my bench and they are going in as well. Coils are new. Might as well since it's torn down that far... Sorry about going off topic here.....
  13. Yeah, I can see why they get it, it's the "aggravation factor" When you remove the seat, lean it back and remove the bolts for the front vertical adjuster. Lift the seat cushion up and remove the ECU for replacement.
  14. Decided to tear the front down and get that timing belt replaced. I had an alternator die on me 3 days ago, stock unit at 99,000. I decided it's time to check the belt as well, glad I did. Took a new belt, and of course the new water pump. That's a pair - don't do one without the other since the pump is timing belt driven. I have to say it's a nightmare in terms of time involved, but otherwise straight forward. I can see now where Lexus gets well over 1K for this procedure, with parts just at about $200. Belt is a Goodyear at $50.00 and the pump was $169.00 new not rebuilt. I opted for a new pump since it's aluminum. Give yourself 2 days on this and don't rush it. Make sure you know where the bolts are from, a bunch of different lengths in there. Alternator now charging at 14.4vdc under load, and tomorrow I finish putting the front end back together. Hint -- you DO NOT have to remove the radiator and hydraulic fan to get at this stuff. Also, make your own mark on the two overhead cams and the crank. You'll save about 3 hours work right there. I have some pictures and will upload them now. Any questions about this R&R procedure and I'd be happy to answer them. Picture are in order, you can see the old belt and the wear showing through the smooth side. The new water pump is that nice shiny thing toward the last picture, and the last pic has the new belt installed.
  15. ECU for the memory seat function is underneath the driver's seat. Right in the middle. You nee to remove the front seat, it is attached to the underside. Just doing mine now as well, steering column worked, the seats all move manually --- but the mem button functions on the door were inop. Car has some down time now, I have the front of the engine torn down for a timing belt/water pump replacement, so I am ironing out all the little things that are bugging me since taking ownership of it two months ago. I guess the last owner fainted when he got the estimate from Lexus to do all this stuff. The timing belt alone would've run him over a grand. Anyhow -- remove the driver's seat and you'll see the ECU under the cushion in the center.
  16. I just had this same exact problem. Went out with my wife and when we got into the car to go home, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they were loose. Tightened them and off I went. Next day I went to have BATT tested and it read 12.41 volts, checked out ok. I replaced the terminal connectors since they were no longer holding. Went with all lead terminals instead of the stock thin metal ones. Worked great for about 80 miles. The second day I was on the highway and started to experience a battery light, headlights went dim, and poor engine performance. Got off at an exit, went to a fast food parking lot and the thing died, nothing - no lights - just a dead car. Waited a little while, about 30 minutes, and the car no miraculously had some power to the interior lights, but not enough to turn the engine. Checked to terminals again, they were tight. Looked for signs of leaking and percolation but nothing. Finally noticed the battery case itself was a slight bit "bulbous" in that the case was starting to distort and bulge indicative to a bad battery - the same one that tested fine 2 days earlier. The additional ambient heat (over 90 the past few days here in Phoenix) combined with the highway driving instigated possible shorting of plate in the battery itself. Common here in Arizona. When the battery and engine compartment cool down, the plates are no longer touching and thus a sort of tease thinking you have your electrical power back. Freaky huh? I replaced the battery right there in the parking lot with a new one - and problem solved, runs like a champ. Now, I will have the charging system tested to ensure the alternator, etc. are working properly....but my guess the culprit as the old battery that did in fact show signs of age. The plates were crusted over when I looked into the vent tubes, along with not even the slightest spark when applying the terminal connectors as you would experience with a fully charged battery. I would guess that the lack of a tight connection (not charging well) and the age of the battery in combination with the heat wave this week killed the thing. These cars are electric everything, and a fresh battery is a must along with a frequent user check of the charging system and battery. Lesson learned tonight! :) Reference the picture of my engine compartment on my album page under my profile. Check out the side panel on that battery, not looking too straight. Few months ago, it was very cold here in Ohio below 0 degree. My battery 1 year old was also killed, thanks for AUTOZONE replaced brand new one without charge. I thought my Alternator was gone, but it was not after I removed the battery and brought to AUTOZONE for checkup. They told me it was shot, everytime, he added the load to it. Otherwise, it seems good condition, +12v without load. I just found out the bad news as well. I had to grab an alternator today, and found out there are none in Phoenix from AutoZone, Checker, Pep Boys, - even BAP - a specialty parts store for the needle in a haystack parts. So I ordered one, $200 with a $45 core on the return. Should be here Monday according the Checker - that was the store with the shortest wait time on the part. Put a load on the the thing and there was a small charge with higher RPM to none at all at idle. So, new battery on board and a new alternator Monday the 27th. :) Thankfully I have a friend (my guitarist!) that's a master mechanic specializing in high end foreign cars, to him it's a two hour gig. Me - all day.....
  17. In addition to checking mounts, etc., make sure that the dude spinning your wheels is using a high speed spin balance. Most shops run them up to about 40-45 mph and send you out onto the road. That's OK for most cars, but I have noticed that Toyota (Lexus) products have limited tolerances for these things. Up to and including front end alignment - make sure they know how to work on this brand...it's a different animal. Insist they speed up on the machine for your balance. Run if they tell you they can bubble balance them!
  18. I just had this same exact problem. Went out with my wife and when we got into the car to go home, nothing. I got out and checked the battery terminals and they were loose. Tightened them and off I went. Next day I went to have BATT tested and it read 12.41 volts, checked out ok. I replaced the terminal connectors since they were no longer holding. Went with all lead terminals instead of the stock thin metal ones. Worked great for about 80 miles. The second day I was on the highway and started to experience a battery light, headlights went dim, and poor engine performance. Got off at an exit, went to a fast food parking lot and the thing died, nothing - no lights - just a dead car. Waited a little while, about 30 minutes, and the car no miraculously had some power to the interior lights, but not enough to turn the engine. Checked to terminals again, they were tight. Looked for signs of leaking and percolation but nothing. Finally noticed the battery case itself was a slight bit "bulbous" in that the case was starting to distort and bulge indicative to a bad battery - the same one that tested fine 2 days earlier. The additional ambient heat (over 90 the past few days here in Phoenix) combined with the highway driving instigated possible shorting of plate in the battery itself. Common here in Arizona. When the battery and engine compartment cool down, the plates are no longer touching and thus a sort of tease thinking you have your electrical power back. Freaky huh? I replaced the battery right there in the parking lot with a new one - and problem solved, runs like a champ. Now, I will have the charging system tested to ensure the alternator, etc. are working properly....but my guess the culprit as the old battery that did in fact show signs of age. The plates were crusted over when I looked into the vent tubes, along with not even the slightest spark when applying the terminal connectors as you would experience with a fully charged battery. I would guess that the lack of a tight connection (not charging well) and the age of the battery in combination with the heat wave this week killed the thing. These cars are electric everything, and a fresh battery is a must along with a frequent user check of the charging system and battery. Lesson learned tonight! :) Reference the picture of my engine compartment on my album page under my profile. Check out the side panel on that battery, not looking too straight.
  19. cactuseater

    3.jpg

    From the album: My 1995 SC400

  20. cactuseater

    My 1995 SC400

    Showroom and stock. Absolutely clean car, the leather looks like the day it was bought. Well taken care of. I love the 400 series!
  21. cactuseater

    7.jpg

    From the album: My 1995 SC400

  22. cactuseater

    9.jpg

    From the album: My 1995 SC400

  23. cactuseater

    4.jpg

    From the album: My 1995 SC400

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