HipsterDoofus

For anyone searching for archival purposes 82670-0E040 is the part number for the towing ENabled junction box 82670-0E030 is the part number for the towing DISabled junction box Externally the two parts are identical. There is only a manufacture date on a sticker and the code Toyota PP-T30 or Toyota >PP-T30< molded into the plastic shell of the junction box. And, the part number is on the open plastic bag in which the dealer receives the part. It seems like there is a lot of potential for confusing mix-ups on the parts shelf. Out of curiosity I disassembled the old towing disabled converter to see what was different. The big plastic box contains a small circuit board soldered to pins going to the outside connectors. I would suppose that only this board differs between part numbers. Why on earth Toyota doesn't just put the towing enabled converter on all units it produces is anybody's guess. I am certain that there is no difference in the production cost of the towing enabled vs. disabled boards. Seems very un-Toyota-like. To provide a counter point to many who found this job easy, I found this job to be a giant PITA. I would have gladly paid the dealer $900 for the hitch plus install in retrospect. I found the FSM illustrations hard to follow and had to read and re-read many times to feel confident proceeding. And the electrical connectors to the junction box / converter were a bear to get loose in a space with restricted access. Installation of the hitch itself wasn't bad at all. My wife's '09 RX is "towing ready" and I will probably tackle that myself if it only involves bolting the hitch on.

The part number above is superceded by 82670-0E040. A word of caution, I ordered the above part number (82670-0E040) online and the fine folks at lexuspartsonline.com (Champion Toyota, Austin) decided that they knew what part number I really needed based on my VIN. One week of waiting and $35 worth of overnight express shipping later, they sent me the exact same junction box that is already in the vehicle. So, if ordering online, you may wish to not give them your VIN number and / or include a note that the P/N should not be substituted.

My screen name here is an obscure Seinfeld reference, although it may be predated by the artist you mentioned.

It doesn't open even with all of the doors unlocked. Good suggestion though.

I think a drive in my '92 Landcruiser might change your mind on that point. ;) I'm not expecting the RX to hang with my 350Z but I think performance equivalent or better than a 3.0 L X5 would be achievable. I like the X5 ride and handling a lot but don't like BMW reliability relative to Lexus. I suspect shocks, Eibach or H&R springs and some stickier tires would go a long way to improving the RX's handling. I haven't written off the Alenzas yet and I may end up getting some. The narrower tread width and truck-tire appearance are two features I don't particularly care for.

Question for those with sludge problems: Where were your oil changes done? There have been various news stories on Jiffy Lube and similar franchises charging for but not performing work like oil changes. One must wonder if such practices lead to engine sludge issues.

I'm looking for a nice 18" performance tire for my RX330 and the Yokohama AVID V4S looks like a strong candidate. From reading old threads it looks like a few forum members had decided to give these a try and I'm wondering what people think after a few years of use. I'm especially interested in experiences on the RX's rather than the TireRack reviews on other cars (i.e. I'm not sure someone's experience on a 5-series BMW or Accord is relevant to the RX). I know the Bridgestone Dueler Alenzas are very highly regarded in this forum. Having driven the stock Michelins on my wife's '09 RX350, I'm not sure a quiet comfortable ride is my top priority. I'm more interested in taut, crisp handling and good dry traction / cornering (think X5 or Cayenne rather than 4Runner). And where I live I never drive the RX in snow so that is also not a factor. Tire Rack stats If you have used these, please share your experience / opinions.

Sorry I can't help you with groups. If you don't know a good independent, consider getting an estimate from a Toyota dealer. They generally do good quality work with the same OEM Toyota parts and cost a whole lot less than the Lexus dealer.

Thanks - your advice is spot on. I was holding down the button within 1 meter or so of the vehicle. Looking thru the owner's manual again, I see "this feature may be set inoperative" in regard to the remote power rear door. It is likely one of those preferences set by the dealer and only the dealer can reset. I thought I remembered DIY instructions but those must have been for the RX300 or another vehicle.

My master key starts the engine and the remote locks and unlocks the side doors. However, the "PWR DOOR" button on the remote does not open or close the rear hatch. I know the mechanisms of the rear power door work because the interior dash button will activate it. This vehicle is a 2004 RX 330 which is new to me. When I bought the vehicle I was given a valet key, the broken off metal shaft of the original master and an uncut off-brand shell containing what I was told is the remote guts of the original master. I took the pieces to the local Lexus dealer, bought a factory shell and had them cut the key to match the old master shaft and install the remote guts into the factory shell. My new key works for all but the rear hatch. Any ideas how to get the remote working with the rear hatch?

The fibers themselves look to be in very good condition with little wear. There are reports in another thread of lt grey carpet yellowing "spontaneously" in an old thread here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&pid=220023

The mats came out of the steam cleaning process looking equally as bad as the carpet. But it is possible that the mats might respond better to laundering than the carpet. I've read some accounts (possibly in this forum) of people using dilute woolite or simple green in hot water, a scrub brush, and a wet /dry shop vac to perform a home spun hot water extraction on the carpet in-vehicle. That is something I would consider but I want to avoid creating mold / mustiness or other issues from wetting the carpet and the padding underneath in the vehicle.

FWIW, my local Toyota dealer did the timing belt, waterpump, and all drive belts for $650 out the door including parts. This is on par with quotes from independent shops and far better than the $1700 the Lexus dealer wanted for just timing belt and water pump. IIRC, the 3.3L in our RX330's is an interference engine so the cost of NOT doing the timing belt could be very high.

The carpet has been "steam cleaned" by two auto detailing shops. Both told me the carpet and mats were as clean as they would ever get. The fact that the mats subsequently came out night-and-day cleaner after their trip thru the washing machine causes me to question what I was told by the detailers.Perhaps I need to find a better professional detailer / detail shop. I'm not eager to disassemble my new (to me) RX to clean the carpets.

It means that there is no TPMS sensor on the wheel on the '04.