Von

Car has been doing good for the last year (ever since I sent the ECU out for a redo by ATE) A couple days ago I left the house and went about 5 miles down the interstate when I took a ramp. Waiting for the light to change, it stalled and hasn't started since. Had to have it towed back home. Seems to be the fuel pump (spark/ no fuel) What is the procedure for checking the relay, and pump or do I just have to remove the back seat and check pump with a volt meter to see if it has power. And where's this resistor that's suppose to be on the right fender by the strut tower ? Mine doesn't have one there. Or is it time to send the ECU back for a reflash ? 93' LS400 w/170K

One more time, take it out and send it to ATE/ASI in Tenn. $99.00 and they pay for return shipping. 1-866-983-6688. My 93 hasn't missed a beat for 2000 miles since their work. Sure beats the dealer. ;)

If I bought an SC400 or SC300 I'd probably sell the LS. I've never ridden anyone in the back seat, and don't really need the room. I was curious if anyone owned or had owned both and could give a quick review. I've driven a 300 and 400 and thought the 300 was sufficient, although I've been told the 400 was the way to go. The 300 would be easier and cheaper to maintain. The only thing I don't like are the large doors and hinges, but I guess you'd get used to it.

ATE/ASI out of Tenn. repairs them also (1-866-983-6688) They also do instrument clusters and ECU's. :D

Now that I have my 93 LS400 road-ready and all's been done that needs to be done (ECU, t-belt, starter, EGR pipe, alt.,brakes, speakers replaced, etc.) I'm looking at a very nice one owner 93 SC400 that I really wanted before I got the LS. Anyone own both ? Any opinions/info would be helpful. I assume they have the same quirks and problems of the LS's...........anymore ?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Just did one rear and one front and will do another front this weekend. It's a 4" spkr. on the magnet it says (Nakamichi S400F04) 20w/40w 4ohm. I don't think there is anything special about them, the front and rear are the same. As long as they are at least 40w and 4ohm. The local car radio installers had a pair for $80.00 but I didn't want to pay that, so I went to Walmart and bought 2 for $30.00. They are rated at 40w to 120w peak /4ohm. They are OK but not great. I was hopeing for more lows but a 4" can only do so much I guess. That's where the sub in the back helps. p.s. The rear panels are held on by mostly clips(take your time or you'll break them) The front panels are held on with 8 screws and 6 clips. Don't attempt it until you read one of the posts, because there are several hidden screws.Here is a pic of the front that I used from LexLs. Glad I had it. :)

Ruud, I did my egr pipe about a couple months ago and can tell you it is a pain. The top 2 bolts can be seen right behind the intake (5 min. to take off) The bottom two bolts can be removed with the car on the ground (drive the right front wheel up on a small ramp.1/2 hr to 1 hour to remove) so you can squeeze under the car. The hardest part is getting the one 12mm bolt off that holds the pipe to the block,it has to be done by feel, and with a little help from a friend, and took me about 3 hrs. to get it off :D ) I have some good pics if you need them, and will help you with any questions.p.s. Mine was cracked in two places and I had it repaired at a local welding shop for $30.00. So far so good. Good Luck, Von

Just make sure you buy REAL silicon spray, and not something that says "with silicon"I think it's Liquid Wrench that is in a yellow can...............it smells and feels like kerosene ! I use CRC Heavy Duty Silicone spray on everything thats rubber, especially around window tracks, reduces drag on motors. Works nice on sunroof tracks also.......and door locks.........and power antennas......... :)

I also believe 95' up is interference, but don't know for a fact. I do know for a fact that a doctor in my home town has an SC400 with over 250k with original belt. Before I bought my 93 I almost bought a 98 LS400 with 210k....... with original belt. p.s. I called (2) Lexus dealers and they didn't know !

I thought I had said what was done(complete tune-up) Plugs,wires,caps ,rotors, and fuel filter, and I replaced the EGR pipe, cleaned the MAF, and put a new air filter in. Also I checked all the fuses in the car and under the hood, pulled the main relays that were important and cleaned them with contact cleaner and firmly pushed them back. Also every connector on the engine was unplugged and cleaned,also the ignitors. I also checked the coil wires to make sure the were tight. I've been working on cars for 30 years (I'm ASE certified , whatever that means) the engine does not miss CASE CLOSED, I can tell when a car misses under load, or has a poor/ruff idle. It runs perfect and always has (the PO used to drive it 600 miles on the weekends to play golf) An engine can't run perfectly with bad plugs,wires, fried caps and rotors ! The ECU repair is $100, it took a half an hour to remove it. We'll see.................... :)

Going to replace the ECU next week. After reading for 2 weeks, I've come to the conclusion that a going or gone ECU can create a lot of different problems. ATE out of Tennessee(1-866-983-6688) will do a test/repair on your ECU with a 2 day turn around for $99.00. If it turns out OK during testing, there's a $55.00 (test)charge, and it would be worth it to eliminate one potential problem, instead of dumping big bucks on part after part ! ;)

The car had new everything (complete tune at dealer) including fuel filter less than 20k ago. When it runs ,it runs perfect. I can drive to West Va. straight up mountains at 80mph all day long. Return home after 300 miles, and driving easy around town it quits.................go figure.

Thought I had my problem solved when I cleaned the MAF and replaced a DIRTY air filter. Has been running perfect for 3 days. Took off this morning for a short trip and wihin 2 blocks and 5 min. run time it lost power and CEL came on. Took car home hooked up my trusty wire to read codes, and now NO CEL, it disappeared. I have removed/inserted wire several times key on/off (but not started) and still no CEL visable. Thought I would ask before I pull the ECU fuse. p.s. Car idles perfectly, good clean exhaust note from both tailpipes, just won't go ! My question is when the key is turned on there is NO CEL, crank the car for a couple seconds, and the light appears with key on. Turn key off and on again NO CEL! Can't check my codes, any ideas ?

Yea, you may be right, but 99% of the guys on this board are having big time problems trying to make these cars run for a week straight without turning off at stop lights, dying while running down the highway, stalling, idle, and starting problems, and that's on a good day. It's worth considering. :P

I have a friend that came by while I was working on my car (lost power had to limp home), and he asked if I had ever put Kroger gas in it (10%Ethanol) and I had just filled up there about the same time my car started doing it's thing. He said never run it in any Toyota products (he has one of the last Supra Turbos, a Lexus and Camry. All he and his dad have owned for 20yrs. He claims Ethanol enriched gas will kill them. I never run the stuff in any of my cars, but did this time just because it was a good deal. Anyone ever heard of such a thing. *I know it's been linked to doing severe damage to boat motors, especially if they sit for a long time* <_<

Don't fix it if it ain't broke. Works evrytime !

Mine felt as if it were running out of gas, bucked and jerked then lost power. I assumed it was either lean or had lost a coil (1/2 power) Now I believe it was very rich (dirty air filter and MAF) and the ECU cut back fuel, defaulted to "limp home mode" which gave the false impression of lean with half spark. It's a theory, but makes more sense then saying you have to replace 37 parts to make a Lexus run properly. Don't OVERTHINK the problem !

My 93 was doing about the same thing (like 100 others) I read about a dozen things it could be, but since I didn't want to spend 2 or 3 grand on it, I started with the cheap stuff first. I replaced the air filter (that I thought was new) but when I removed it, the unseen side was filthy. The 2nd thing I did was remove the MAF and cleaned it with CRC MAF sensor cleaner ($7.50 in a silver can) 3rd I reset the ECU by pulling the 20amp EFi fuse. So far it has started and run/idled better than ever, but it's only been 2 days. I'll comment later. Good luck, and try these 3 simple things first. p.s. Don't assume everthing is new and right (like me), unless you did the work.

Need some help on removing the rear door panels. I know the front has about 14 screws and clips. Haven't found anything like (lexls) on the rear. Only see 2 screws, and there must be more. I'm starting to pry, and things are REAL TIGHT , don't want to ruin a nice door panel. :( Well I guess all of you experts out there either don't know how to remove a door panel, or it's so easy any idiot should be able to do it. I'll go do a search at Better Homes and Gardens, maybe they know something.

No, what he means is synthetic. I noticed at the auto parts store yesterday (and what I have at home) is synthetic (not silicone) Looks like it's all you can buy now. Maybe the EPA is envolved. The salesman didn't even know that every can on his shelf was synthetic.

The video tells the whole story(for those who can't quite get it) When it does this "kick back" while starting, it actually sounds as if the timing is way off or crossed wires (that's a description not the problem) Mine only does this when warm, and only once or twice a day. It also thumps on the floorboard as if the exhaust doesn't have proper clearance. (motor or trans mount ?) My theory is pre-igntion (backfireing) up through the intake some how. If you turn the key on and let it sit for a couple of seconds then start, it seems to help. Theory #2, low or mid-grade gas may be causing this problem, it's fireing way before the piston reaches TDC. It's not a starter problem. And NO IT"S NOT A BELT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My 93 has the same problem. Sub works, and one speaker and tweeter.All the other speakers are dead. Car has been babied by two previous owners and the CD player was rarely used. Oh, that doesn't work either...............................just ERR !!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that's real quality.

One more comment if I may. I've owned this car (93 LS400) for 2 months now, and there's not a week that goes by that I don't find a couple more things wrong with it. This may end up being a short love (hate) affair. After re-setting the airbag light, replacing the tail light bulb (have to remove the whole light assy for that)Fog light bulb, Oh and I did the EGR pipe "ball buster". And now I've got to replace the rear axle carrier arm bushings. But the ash tray and cup holder do have a good feel to them.

Have a 93 LS400 with a 150k. Two owner dealer maintained car. It sat for 3 or 4 days during snow. Took it for a 100 mile trip and after about 30 miles it started slowing down as if out of gas, then it would pick up for 5 sec. die for 5 sec. This went on for 30 min. Turned around to come home and it cleared up. Question: Do the igniters go slowly or all at once. Also, what else besides fuel filter, water in the gas, etc.etc. would cause the engine to die as if someone were turning the key on and off.