LexusHam

I have a 92 SC300 that tracks on every groove or bump in the road. I have already replaced the LCAs with Supra ones before, so I am thinking the steering rack bushings need replacement. I am thinking about ordering the Daizen ones thru tmengineering. There was a step by step tutorial on changing these out but when you check it the pictures are all placeholders..... So... Does anyone have a link to a tutorial or pictures for changing these out. It would make the job go faster if I could go thru that ahead of time. Thanks

The easiest way to re-charge these systems is to go to ebay and find the r-12 recharge kits (there is an outfit called frosty freeze that sells them that I know of). They sell complete kits to recharge your system, you just have to send them an email if you are going to resell them or have one of your a/c friends give them their epa cert number for you if you are going to have them do it for you. I would suggest a two can kit - if you don't need the second one, just put it away for now.

Yea I have cleaned it out before, but I live in dust-bowl USA. So it doesn't stay clean for long. Somtimes I actually have to pull tumbleweeds out of the space between the radiator and bumper cover!

Not to get too far off topic... When I cleaned out the engine bay I did cover the distributor and had the engine running. On this type of motor one of the things you need to watch out for when cleaning your motor is spraying too much water around the spark plug valley between the valve covers. There is a tray at the top of it to stop that but it will get below that if it is alot of water. Also, maybe let it run a while after hosing it off to let the water evaporate off. But still, don't think it would have been a problem if not for the new plug wire boots which hadn't sealed down yet. So really my problem was cleaning too much!

LoL, seriously, my engine bay is immaculate. Thank you very much for the help lexusHam, i am thinking about those ebay ones, lol i've heard they like to fog up, but its worth a try if the dealer warrants them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK-92-99...emZ260262443175 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-99-LEXUS...emZ310067712806 They look really nice. Pics are a must, i know. A while back I changed out my valve cover gaskets because they were seeping a bit of oil - just enough to smell it actually. At the same time I changed out my spark plugs and plug wires. Anyhow, after the job was done, I took it down to the car wash and loaded it up with degreaser and then rinsed it off. Ran great all the way home until it was parked for a while. Then the excess water/degreaser ran down under the plug tray shield and into the plug holes (about 2 inches of standing liquid!). Needless to say, was basically un-driveable until I pulled out the tray and plug wires to get the moisture out. (Since the new plug wires weren't sealed in very good yet, the water allowed the top of the plug to short out on the block, making it misfire on two of the cylinders). Haven't cleaned it since..... I guess I just need to face my fear of degreaser. ;)

What exactly are we trying to do, replace the bulbs or the housing itself? Also you don't have to take the front cover off. You can remove it from the engine bay Im replacing the actual high beam housing, i know how to remove the headlights, just the high beams im not sure about. So the front bumper cover doesnt have to come off to remove the high's? Any pics, or step by step? You do not have to tear off the bumper cover to change out the high beams. I think there are two screws at the top that mount it in and it has a groove near the bottom of the high beam assembly which fits on a tab on the bumper cover (and of course, the wiring plug). When you get your new aftermarket lights just study the mounting spots on the new ones and it will make sense as to how to remove the old ones. Here is a picture of the back of a bumper cover which shows the small tab that the bottom of the high beam slips onto. Also, I put in two pictures of my car with the rubber hood seal pulled back. If I remember right, you pull off the seal carefully so you can reuse it (its in a groove), then take out those screws all the way across and remove the small tray the seal sets in, which will reveal the beam mounting bolts. I replaced my whole front end a couple months ago but have forgotten everything already... Anyhow, it's easy - you won't have a problem. (not a pain like the headlights) By the way, if you get them installed, post a picture of your car with them, I have been thinking of getting some of those myself...

I have a 92 SC 300 with the TRAC option. I purchased some Bridgestone Blizzak studless snow tires (set of 4) for my car this last winter and was amazed with the difference. The tires are a pure winter tire of course (they have the snowflake branding), so the ride and handling drop a bit (very slight for a pure snow tire), but the difference in snow was incredible. I had no traction problems whatsoever after mounting these tires and would recommend them to anyone. I bought mine off Tirerack.com. I think they were Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 size 235-60-15. Hope this helps.

Yesterday I changed the spark plugs on my 92 SC300. As I am finishing up and checking all the hoses and wires to make sure I re-installed them I notice that one is disconnected from a little emission control type valve at the back of the motor. AHA I think - I bet it will run even better when this is hooked up! So I did. It ran fine down round the block and back but when I pull in my garage it starts to idle funny, so I start to investigate. Apparently the valve I hooked the hose up to has something to do with the EGR valve (on top of it it says EGR - VM - which I am assuming stands for exhaust gas recirc vac manifold). So I unhooked the hose again and presto it runs smoother. But I notice that the hose is still pulling good vacuum, which in most cars you would plug up - but when I do it runs crappy. So, I wanted to know if anyone had suggestion / possible cause for this problem. From reading other posts Im guessing that the EGR valve is plugged, but dont know for sure. Also If I remove the EGR valve would anyone have idea as to how to re-plumb the vacuum lines? Any ideas, tips, suggestions, or previous experience with this would be appreciated! Thanks