lex

I had the same problem with my 92 ES300, but it went away after I have the CV boots replaced.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33567

Anyone try these Lomandi Kevlar/metallic brake pads? Are they any good?

Anyone know where I can get the window motor for the front driver side for cheap? The dealer cost is $625!

I thinking of getting these Brembo drilled/slotted rotors for my 92:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

anyone try them? is it a good price for $190 (for all 4 rotors)? How much do they usually cost?

:D I just put in KYBs and Eibach Pro-kit Springs in mine. Made my car much more fun to drive.

I've pulled the vents about 5 or 6 times now on my 92. Takes me no more than a minute to slide it out. Its pretty easy once you know where the tabs are. They are on the top about 1" in from the sides. I used a harness remover which is flat and bent downwards at the forked tip. I stick this tool in about 1 inch and push the handle of the tool up to force the tab down and pull outward at the same time. Just do this for one side to slide it out a bit (1/2 cm) then do the other side and it slides right out. Good luck.

:D

I had the same problem with overheating in my 92, and was fixed by replacing the head gaskets too.

SK, I didn't mean flush as in no gap showing. I meant like how the BMWs tires are flush with the side body when looking from the front or back and not sunken in.

squarehat do you have any pics of your car? Thanks.

I am thinking of 17 inch rims. with 215/50/17 tires? This tire diameter is very close to the 205/65/15 stock diameter. So should I get 17x7 rims?

Would the the 7 in. width make the wheels flush with the body?

I want to get wider rims so that it looks flush with the body, instead of the recessed factory look. Someone said to make sure that the backspace of the new rims are close to the factory rims or else I will get rubbing.

Anyone know what the backspace distance is for 92 ES300 factory alloy rims? Thanks.

bbsal, i like how your wheels are flush with the body. The factory wheels 16x6 are recessed in the wheel well, do I just need to get wider rims? like 16x8? And whats with the offsets that I see on some wheel specs, like what does 20 mm offset mean?

sk, what size is your big'o vat/tub of solid cocoa butter? I've only seen a 6 oz container at the walmarts here.

There is a Ground/Earth Kit selling on ebay for the ES that claims:

After installing this grounding kit, you will immediately notice an improvement in your idling, and top end acceleration. You will also experience 1-3 HP increase.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2424936300

Anyone try this? Or is it a scam?

The Lexus dealer wanted to charge me $90 to diagnose the airbag light problem, so I took it to an independent Toyota/Lexus Care shop and they resetted the light for free using some piece of equipment that looked like a large digital multimeter. It reported that the light was triggered by the malfunction of the right side impact sensor. I don't know how that could have happened. But anyway the light hasn't come back on, so I guess its ok to leave it alone?

The Air Bag light just lit up on my dash, what does that mean? can somebody tell me how to turn it off? Thanks.

Thanks, I connected the homelink to the Stop Fuse, the compass to the cig fuse, and the ground I just used it as a washer by putting it behind the top left screw of the lower dash panel. Everything seems to work fine, got the compass calibrated and the homelink going. :) Altho it would have been cheaper overall to get the thing professionally installed now that i need a new windshield. <!--emo&--><!--endemo-->

Ok so I've found that there are kits out there that fix cracks, but they're friggin expensive! I don't think i'll be able to fix the damage with it since the glass is crunched behind the button mount. I just hope the mirror doesn't fall off before I can get the windshield replaced. :(

it looks like the crack is on the inside, some of the black paint from the square flaked of in the process of cracking. The crack is shows about a half a centimeter to the left and right of the edges of the black square. I have to becareful with adjusting the mirror cuz with every small movement of the mirror I can hear the glass crunching behind the mount. I didn't know there was any epoxy that can hide cracks.

Also will someone from the insurance company want to look at the damage? Cuz theres no damage on the outside of the windshield just on the inside.

I switched over to Costco Auto Insurance recently. If they offer windshield replacement, would that be under Comprehensive Coverage? Cuz I didn't get that as part of my insurance plan. Does anyone know how much more on the average my insurance will be every six month if I add on Comprehensive? Right now I'm paying $250 without collision and comprehensive.

btw, the headliner in the center didn't give way very much. I took out the 2 screws from the driver side visor hinge, the screw for the visor hook, and the 2 screws in the center mini visor and also the screw from the passenger visor hook. The headliner in the vicinity of the driverside visor hinge came off fine, and I was able to tuck the wire in easily but near visor hook all the way to the center it was really tough, I had to really force the wire under the headliner in that area. Did you have any problems like that?

Crap, I was almost done, and was trying to put on the telescoping trim that hides the wire, it was a really tight fit and the windshield cracked! The crack goes across the black part and protrudess about a half centimeter on the left and right. I guess the pounding from the putty knife weakened that area? Dammit, now I need to save up for a friggin windshield. Argh!!

i just remembered that you said you used a fused tap, for the switched on. Which way does the current flow, do you tap the fuse on the bottom contact or the top contact in order to still get the fuse protection? Also did you see where your autoshop connected the "always on" wire?