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igbeserk

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Everything posted by igbeserk

  1. Blah driving today car was being a bit unresponsive rpms would jump but the speed wouldn't increase kept happening. I tried manually shifting gears from L, 2, D then it was working properly again. I'll take it to a shop tonight to have them look at it and the check engine light. can't take much more of this, Anything else you guys can recommend? what other things can i look into to make sure it idles lower when i first start the car. i've already cleaned the iacv sensor but that was 2 or so months back but yea.
  2. all right i spent friday examining the wiring. most of the wire i couldn't follow into the car i tried a few things. i couldn't switch the wires for the speakers because i couldn't find them unless i went to the speakers directly and switched them myself. so i'm out of ideas.
  3. bleh error codes came back i think all he did was reset it. i gotta look at the haynes manual because i really couldn't see the EC1 thing you were referring to.
  4. cool glad to hear it. my car has been at the mechanics. he claimed he got rid of the check engine light. hopefully he didn't reset it with a scanner and thinks all is good LOL. but yea will try it when i get home and hopefully yea it doesn't come back.
  5. i have a 95 es300. both sensors are connected by two separate wires. i had the 0325 error code before which is the bank 1 knock sensor, replaced it reset the codes and it still came back up. to bridge it wouldn't i have to splice the cable from the first bank to the second bank? and if that's the case i'd have to open it up all the way again i believe.
  6. all right i'll take a look into switching the wires around that' be nice if it were that simple but at the same time would make me mad because it took this long to get rid of that sound lol.
  7. yea i suppose i'll check. but i mean aside from the cables that are right there when i pull out the radio i don't know what else to check? because i've checked those wires before and made sure they weren't exposed or touching. it sounds like i might have to do a complete tear down of the dash area and follow these wires to see if they are touching something they shouldn't. and i didn't spend much on this radio unit bought it new for 40 so that's not bad and the harness and wire adapter were about 20 in all. it beats buying another oem radio. since around here they try to charge a lot and on ebay the prices vary but i wouldn't want to be stuck in the same situation. sounds like a few hours project bleh lol.
  8. Oh i should check out one of those obdii scanners you're talking about. Replacing the knock sensor didn't fix the problem same error. So it's either the knock sensor could be bad which is doubtful or the wire that connects to it since it's only one wire and !Removed! it in grounds it i believe. same with the O2 sensor, spliced a new one and still have the error codes after resetting them so it could either be the wrong O2 or the splicing was done bad which i doubt or the wires it connects to are bad. Well the tranny has been filled with fluid a few times last month since it was leaking or lost all the fluid and had to have two seals replaced in it. The type of fluid i've been using are the DexMerc ones you can find at autozone. the ones that you can use on dexron ii, iii, iv etc cars. its being sent to the mechanic now it's been acting weird yesterday definitely had weird shifting issues and just putting it into drive it shook like crazy but last night was a pretty smooth ride all around jersey. but yea i'll have him look at the stuff we've been talking about.
  9. so i have to look in there to see if any wires are touching? that seems hard lol. i've wanted to replace the battery wires along with some others but don't want to pay for it lol. Hm guess i'll look into it though and figure out what i can do but thanks though that helped me understand the situation better because I've taken it out and checked and double checked the wiring and same thing constantly happens. I see a ground loop insolator at radioshack. that would help correct? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214 but do i need to do it for all 4 audio ports? since the head unit has 4 audio ports in the back. 2 for front and 2 or back speakers. this looks like it would isolate only one pair. Boar I removed the OEM head unit because the tape deck broke and I used a cassette adapter to connect my ipod to it. So i took the easier route since that was my second OEM head unit. I just bought a cheap sony xplode system to use the auxilary in. You're probably right about the OEM producing better sound but that wasn't the case in my car. The Xplod with the stock speakers and amp work so much better than the oem much louder too and its clear also. haven't heard any crackling or breaking or anything of that sorts. aside from the humming i'm very happy with the purchase. But yea that's why I removed the OEM one. :-)
  10. it uses obdii. yea took me and my friend around 5 hours to do the whole taking apart the manifold and replacing the knock sensor in bank 1 and put it back. I also cleaned my idle air control sensor not too long ago with adjusting my throttle body since it wasn't opening all the way. yea i heard it might be a wiring issue also. but i didn't feel like tackling the knock sensor again to check was a pain the first time. all right i'll try to check the temp at warm up. i didn't know an OBDII scanner could read temps. especially since you can't have the car on when you use it.
  11. hmm i'm not sure where the power is coming from its not directly from the battery though from what i know. All i did was take out the original radio, added in an adapter and then connected the adapter to the new radio. Yea i used one of those twist caps to bridge the wire connections. so they aren't touching anything metal or what not to cause that. maybe i should try running the black and red wire well power wires to my cigarette port? yea it was a wiring harness that i had purchased off of ebay.
  12. This is the source of your problem. Idle should be around 600-800 rpms (below the one). So with your high idle, when you drop it into gear from park or neutral it'll give a loud clunk. Not too healthy for the tranny in the long run. First ? is the check engine light on? If it is take it to Autozone and get them to read it (free) and you find why it's fast idling. If it isn't then I'm not sure. May be problems with the throttle position switch, or some other sensor that regulates idle. lex yea initially its between 1 and 2, and after warming it up or driving it for a bit it gets below one and is between 0 - 1. yea i do have a check engine light. with two codes. the O2 sensor and the knock sensor error. replaced the knock sensor and O2 and reset the code with the obd2 and they still came back. guess i'll take it to a mechanic.
  13. hmm it idles between 1 and 2 i believe. usually mid 1's or close to 2 depending.
  14. hey i have a 95 es300 and i have a Sony xplode system that i put in there about a year ago. Every time i have the car on with the radio or auxiliary it will make a loud humming or high pitched whine sound and i have to mask it by turning up the volume. Gets very irritating. Now it's hard to remember but i believe initially it didn't make this sound. But i can't remember i just remember driving and thinking to myself what the hell is this sound. I've tried taking it out making sure all the wiring is done properly which it is. I'm just trying to see if anyone here could know what the issue is. But its weird. the whining sound only occurs when the engine is on. if the engine is off but power is on there is no whining sound. So i don't know what type of interference is occurring. any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  15. All right been having some issues with my tranny on my 95 ES300. Last November I had to replace the tranny because it was having shifting issues took it to a tranny specialist and they told me my 4th gear was about done. and I noticed that like O/D wouldn't work and what not. Well With this newer tranny I've had some shifting issues before but that was due to the motor mount breaking or coming loose. And in July two seals broke in the tranny and it wouldn't stop leaking fluid but that was about 2 weeks or so ago, I've checked every day and no more leaks it seems. But I am getting some slight shifting issues around 1st gear i believe or right about when i'm going to get into first gear. I don't know if it could be a loose mount i don't think so I had the mechanic take a look he said it looked fine. Also when i'm driving I would say about 5 or so mins later doesn't always happen but happens frequently. I'll hear a whining noise. kind of like the engine is revving but more faint and higher pitched even when the car is on and parked or idling. Also when i change gears, from park to d or reverse and such i can hear it from underneath the car. just sounds loud when it's changing the gear and locking in. I doubt it's supposed to be that loud. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Just trying to make this car last, put in so much time money and effort. bleh.
  16. Hey been having a few issues with my 95 es300 just want to try to resolve them any help would be appreciated. 1. The back passenger floor is wet. It rained heavily yesterday and i'm guessing it's due to that. When i bought this car last year the floors were wet too. I'm not seeing where the water is coming from but I've been reading about the water drains in the sun roof and elsewhere might be clogged so if that happens the water would seep into the car? 2. Coolant it seems every few weeks mybe once a month or two I have to add more coolant. The temps will start to rise while i'm driving. am i supposed to add more that often? Also with the coolant reservoir isn't it supposed to be a backup if the car needs more coolant it sends it to the radiator? because it's always at max even though i'll need to add more to the radiator. Any help would be much appreciated. thanks
  17. sounds like it's probably your idle air controller . which is near the throttle body overtime it can get all dirty and gunky thus making it harder to act properly and you'll have cold start issues. but it's fairly easy to fix if that is your issue. just have to clean the idle air controller / throttle body area with throttle body cleaner or another cleaner that doesn't do damage to plastic or electronics. I hope this helps.
  18. i never did the back window. i did the drivers side. I would say not to remove the window. me and my friend tried to and we kind of messed up the rubber padding that kind of seals the window so water doesn't seep through. i would say when you have it just remove the glass from the regulator and just hold the glass up until you can put the new regulator in and then just have the glass situated on it. just take pics if need be so you can put everything back the right way no problem. hope this helps
  19. sounds like you're probably low on power steering fluid. you'll get that whining sound when trying to turn and what not if there's not enough. if there's none then you have to use tons of force just to turn the wheel.
  20. Quick ? does it idle high and is it still driving good after that quick fix, I think I might need 2 do the same because after cleaning the MAF and the IACV on my 98 es300 it idling high and also has the same thing going on with the throttle body as well? thanks for any input no i don't remember it idling high it always seems to be at the same position. well check your throttle body it's supposed to open halfway if its not then you have to fix it. drives good, responds well, gets to higher speeds quicker.
  21. Lemon laws vary from state to state from used and new and dealer and non dealer. gotta look on the web to see what type of lemon laws you have for your area. gotta look into those because a lot of people/dealers can take advantage of you if you don't.
  22. you can get an OBDII scanner to read the codes off of it. or you should be able to go to autozone and get them to read the codes off of it for you. In terms of manuals check ebay. I don't know if there is a haynes manual for that car. should be one i don't know how similar it is to a 98 camry. but my 95 lexus is basically a 95 camry and the haynes manual for mine is a camry one since i can't seem to find a lexus one guess they don't make it. But you should go back to that lot that you bought it from or take it to a mechanic make sure everything is good. you don't want to get ripped off. because you can use a scanner or some other tool to reset the codes and the codes can not come up for a couple of minutes or hours or a day. so they could have pulled one on you. so get that checked out. lexus repairs can be expensive best to avoid any of the headaches if you can you know.
  23. not shifting into over drive? are you getting any check engine lights? sounds like your tranny might be having some issues I would say go to a tranny expert to have it looked at. On my 95 my car wouldn't go into OD anymore come to find out my 4th gear was all messed up that's why. Hopefully that's not the case with you. But yes get it looked at.
  24. I have had to replace mine before can be a pain in the !Removed!. Yea you'll have to check ebay I think the cheapest i found one was 100. the OEM ones first one snapped on me as i was testing it second one though worked and has been working. I know they sell non oem new ones at reasonable prices. but never tried it. good luck though.
  25. yea I got the car back today. it was a broken seal in the crankshaft i believe where the rod slides through or something like that. Might have misheard the mechanic. he showed me the old seal. but yea he replaced it filled it up. he didn't see anymore leaks and been driving it around and seems to be acting just fine. going to let it sit check in the morning to see if there's anymore leaks then drive it to work maybe go a little hard at it and then make sure all is good.
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