Binari

Hi, Updating this post under a new name. I started this post almost a year ago. IN the mean time I got a set of 1996 wheels, calipers, rotors and lower ball joints from the same wrecked car all for $400. everything was in good shape - or so I thought. Back story, I got the 1990 ls400 with 99K and planned to upgrade the brakes when the tires wore out. In stead at 112K my original front brake pads were worn out so my son and I swapped out the rotors, calipers and lower ball joints. I took it to get aligned and was told the ball joints were bad and i needed a new tie rod end. The car stops really nicely now, but it steers like sh*t. So I only have driven it to the alignment shop and home. Question is does the lower position of the 95+ lower control arm/ball joint affect the steering significantly? I don't doubt I should change the control arm/ball joint part. the other puzzle is that the tie rod ends were replaced at 93K so it seems odd that they would be bad in 15K so I am wondering if the position of the control arm is torquing the tie rod ends and damaging them before I get ot the alignment shop (about 8 miles away)?

Your tube of permatex is plenty. The o rings refer to one of two o rings. One on the fitment called the "water inlet housing" that goes into the block - Replace this O-ring on the water inlet housing. (Apply high temperature sealant to the groove on the water inlet housing. Within 5 minutes of applying the sealant, install the water inlet housing). Torque the 2 bolts to 13 ft-lb (185 kg-cm, 18 Nm). Connect the water hoses to the water inlet housing. The other "Replace the O-ring on the water by-pass pipe. (Apply a little soapy water to the O-ring. The O-ring comes with the water pump). Good luck.

Thanks, for the other ideas. I probably will clean the IACV this weekend. It occurs to me that testing the Coolant Temp Sensor would be to disconnect the electric plug and see if it makes a difference. Is there another test that would make better sense (electrical resistance)? Since the engine does idle at 600 when fully warmed up, how do I know whether the coolant temp sensor is working or barely working? I'd rather not fix something that doesn't need it. What is the ISC? Thanks, Ed

Yep, Mine does same as VBDenny's '90. Something about putting it in N or P after it is warmed up or close to warmed up.

I use saddle soap which cleans and moisturizes just like your significant other's facial cream... The ladies get jealous when you spend more time and money on the car then them...be careful. Then I follow up with an application of Lexol (think this is mostly lanolin). That stuff works well and it does soak into the leather, but if it is a hot day close the windows and let the leather warm up a bit before you put it on. It doesn't like cold leather and doesn't flow well on cold days.

Thanks for that. I have been trying to find things wrong with this car and I just can't seem too... Glad to know she's acting normal, just a bit quirky. My only concern was that when she is coming off freeway speeds she tends to hold the rpm and doesn't decelerate. I like to coast to save fuel as much as possible rather than use my brakes. Plus I notice she will idle high when warmed up, but will drop to 600 rpm when I shift to N or P when stopped. Then when I put in D and drive she will come back to 600 rpm at the next stop. When I have time I think I will take off the IACV and give it a cleaning, it may help. Could be a spring or valve sticks until the vacuum dynamics change - e.g. manually shifting the transmission. BTW she is really clean inside and out. No cracks in the leather or dash, though the leather is a bit stiff from drying out. I put two applications of Lexol on it and that seems to help. Cheers, Ed

Thanks for that. I checked out those threads and the fix seemed to be for low idle and hard starting. I don't have a problem starting and no low idle problem. I may clean the IACV anyway because it probably needs it. I was hoping it was something that simple but we will see when I get around to doing the task. Cheers, Ed

I really enjoy reading the posts on LOC. This site has saved me over a $1K so far, and maybe you guys and gals can help me figure out an annoying problem. Anyway, my LS idles at 1200 after starting, and will not settle into 600 RPM until fully warmed, and sometimes I have to shift to N or P at a stop light before the idle will fall to the correct level. When it idles at 600 RPM at full stop she rides and shifts just fine. When she is warming up or idling high, she coasts with a high RPM and does not decelerate. For example, if I take my foot off the gas approaching a freeway exit, she will maintain the RPMs and speed as if in cruise control. I have to apply the brakes to slow down and the RPMS will come down, but if I take my foot off the brakes before the engine down shifts, like when the engine is at 1400 RPM she will coast at that RPM and that same speed until the transmission down shifts. On flat ground it will maintain 40mph with foot off the gas with no deceleration. Most times after coming to a stop the engine will idle high unless I put it in park or Neutral and then for some reason the RPM falls to 600 and then she runs properly (I.E. she decelerates without the cruise control like coasting). I started thinking it may have something to do with one of the air control values, or a vacuum tube to the transmission. To complicate things, I bought the LS a month ago with 99.4K miles and the first thing I did was the timing belt/Water Pump, Spark Plugs/Wires/Rotor/Cap replacement. So I have no history on how the vehicle drove before I did the 90K maintenance. I may have goofed something up but she gets 23MPG on highway, and seems to run smooth and well other than the issue I noted above. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks, Ed

I really enjoy reading the posts on LOC. This site has saved me over a $1K so far, and maybe you guys and gals can help me figure out an annoying problem. Anyway, my LS idles at 1200 after starting, and will not settle into 600 RPM until fully warmed, and sometimes I have to shift to N or P at a stop light before the idle will fall to the correct level. When it idles at 600 RPM at full stop she rides and shifts just fine. When she is warming up or idling high, she coasts with a high RPM and does not decelerate. For example, if I take my foot off the gas approaching a freeway exit, she will maintain the RPMs and speed as if in cruise control. I have to apply the brakes to slow down and the RPMS will come down, but if I take my foot off the brakes before the engine down shifts, like when the engine is at 1400 RPM she will coast at that RPM and that same speed until the transmission down shifts. On flat ground it will maintain 40mph with foot off the gas with no deceleration. Most times after coming to a stop the engine will idle high unless I put it in park or Neutral and then for some reason the RPM falls to 600 and then she runs properly (I.E. she decelerates without the cruise control like coasting). I started thinking it may have something to do with one of the air control values, or a vacumn tube to the transmission. To complicate things, I bought the LS a month ago with 99.4K miles and the first thing I did was the Timing belt/Water Pump, Spark Plugs/Wires/Rotor/Cap replacement. So I have no history on how the vehicle drove before i did the 90K maintenance. I may have goofed something up but she gets 23MPG on highway, and seems to run smooth and well other than the issue I noted above. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks, Ed