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cosmicfireball

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Posts posted by cosmicfireball

  1. Or whatever it's called...located under/inside the dashboard compartment.

    Radiator place traces non functioning to the relay for the air conditionar stating that the control module is not functioning properly..after pressurizing the compressor system and testing,I think,two other electric components in front of the control module. When I reported that sometimes when it's cold outdoors and after the car heats up and produces heat in the 'cabin' and then I perhaps will stop the car,shut it off and start again there will be no heat. Mechanic thought this was another example

    of defective module.

    Will charge something like $550 to take out the dash,pull the module to get rebuilt and re-install.

    Any comments/advice for this '92 sc300.standard with 137,000 miles and due for a timing belt change?

    Thanks

  2. Compressor won't kick in and I've been advised that the refrigerant pressure is too low. Would someone advise what is the first cost effective procedure I should follow.

    '92 SC 300 with the 'old' form of refrigerant which is evidently difficult to find.

    Would it be useless/harmfull to get an adaptor to use the current form of recharge refrigerant gas in mix that 'stuff' with what remains in the system?

    A mechanic advised that the new form of gas has smaller molecules which will escape through the hose system...which sounded bogus to me..he also said something about damaging rubber seals/gaskets with a mixture.

    Thanks for any advice

  3. I can't understand why/how Lexus screwed up to over torque those fixtures onto the feul line...everyone has trouble getting them off. Good for 200 thousand miles...I don't think so.......... Lexus dealers I've contacted refuse to replace them..........

  4. I think I need a new starter...sometimes turn ignition a dozen times and just hear click. Lights don't dim and have a new battery. Then after a number of attempts the '92 sc300 will fire up. On other days no problem...fires up on first attempt.

    I'm considering three choices for replacement of the starter:

    Approx. $130-140 for a rebuilt Denso(plus 'core'). Rebuilt by who knows who/where?

    Approx. $250 for a Denso Factory rebuild.(I'm sure they don't send old ones back to Japan)

    Approx. $250 for a New Weatherhill Industries that is reccomended highly for durability.

    Any comments/experiences/suggestions?

    Never heard of Weatherhill before...anyone know anything about thier products?

    Thanks in advance.....

  5. "92 SC300 is hesitating on starting. Turn the ignition switch on,with clutch depressed of course,and nothing happens,no sound/clicking or anything. After a couple of tries with no result and then turn on again and ignition occurs with no hesitation or funny sounds.

    This issue started when tempretures were well below freezing and occassional occurs in the 50's.

    Any guess's what this problem is...the start of the failure of the starter..or is there a solonoid set up on this vehicle?

    Thanks in Advance.

  6. My brake light on my '92 intermittedly comes on...I've noted that sometimes it lights up after

    I let up on the pedal when accelerating under normal driving. But sometimes it lights up when I gently accelerate. I've checked brake fluid level and it's OK....nothing seems to be blocking the screen.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance

  7. My brake light on my '92 intermittedly comes on...I've noted that sometimes it lights up after I let up on the pedal when accelerating under normal driving. But sometimes it lights up when I gently accelerate. I've checked brake fluid level and it's OK....nothing seems to be blocking the screen.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance

  8. replaced my belt with a napa belt last summer and no problems, might want to check the tension on your tensioner, how many miles is on the car?

    101,000 miles and the cracks are not that bad....it's started to squeek a little and just put some belt dressing on it and it's quiet now...but I've been told these small cracks is the 'beginning' of a problem with the belt...

  9. oh oops! i didnt read your post right the first time. i am sure that there is more wear when the clutch is engaged at high rpm but its hard to say becasue like you said compressors can last 60k miles or 160k miles but honestly most compressors dont need to be changed the main seal needs to be changed and most mechanics wont risk failure of installing that and put in the time when they can make more off of parts than labor time.

    Thanks for your reply jzz....but.....is there any difference,main seal aside,to compresser wear/tear..if you use the thermostat or manually engage the AC...perhaps another way to ask the question is;is the compressor not functioning at all-not compressing-when the thermostat setting is reached...while you're travelling at 60mph?...a mechanic suggested to me that there was an intermediarry state between off/on...(this doesn't make sense,does it?).....in other words the compressor is 'idling' at some level and it's not such a Yank when the thermo asks it to function again(at 60mph)?????

    does this make sense?

  10. Well,I hadn't heard many clutches going out...BUT I have heard of compressor failure...for instance my '92 sc300 had it's replaced at about 60,000 miles-thankfully not by me!

    I was wondering if it's the compressor that gets yanked mightily when it gets started up at higher speeds

  11. Is there an difference in the amount of wear on air conditioner components if you manually put on the air condition at say 60mph or if the auto-thermostat throws the switch to put on the unit. Or in other words..if you're cruising at 60mph and throw on the air conditioner are you !Removed! up the compressor in making it start working from a dead stop while the belt is going at those high RPM's?

  12. Maintenence Issues-Help Please.

    What is the Lexus specification for retorquing drive shaft flange? Also how often and how crucial to lubricate drive shaft bushing?

    How often to change the gear fluid on 92-sc300?

    And,practically,how often to replace differential oil?

    And finally......any suggested products?

    Thanks

  13. Consulted with,as Click&Clack refer to as the automotive ignition Guru in Boston,about this issue. He thinks,since it is so difficult to remove the fuel filter,that is,loosening up the nuts without stripping them,that toyota basically screwed up. Several folks here report having extreme diffiuclty,if not failure(with disasterous results,)of removing the filter. Mr Guru thinks that a common air wrench,not a torque wrench,was used to tighten the nuts on the filter/line upon installation at the assembly facility. This might explain why dealers,who have probably faced the change difficulty plenty,say you don't have to change the filter. Perhaps why folks on this site also repeat that its not necessary. Even Lexus reccomended maintence brochures/info never refer to changing this unit...which is weird since they recommend attending to much less crucial issues on the vehicle.

    Any comments?

  14. Would anyone like to opine as to why toyota designed the earlier sc300's such that the fuel filter is not to be changed? Opinions on this site seem to differ as to if the filter should be changed at 60,000 miles(etc.) or not at all. In speaking with several dealerships they reccomened that the filter NOT be changed,that they rarely have changed them and that the new models of Lexus aren't even equipped with feul filters(!). Spoke with a local independent long-time-Toyota repair place and they said they have no experience changing these filters.

    How could this be?????

    What are the repercussions of not changing the filter...my vehicle is in the mid 80's.....What To Do????

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