Rager

I'm living in Sweden, have a GS300 -00. Nokian winter tyres are outstanding compared to any other winter tyres. It is the rubber mixture and the very tiny ribs on Nokian that provides the superior grip. /Rager

I hate to be wrong! :chairshot:<_< I'm pretty sure that you can find some cast iron also in the 4.3 l engine with the aluminum block. :whistles: Anyway, this gadget actually saves some fuel, but you have to add the missing amount of energy by producing hydrogen. So possibly, in states or countries where the gasoline is highly taxed, you can save som money. But this is a messy gadget, it is not "install and forget". /Råger

Hydrogen is harmfull to your Cast Iron Engine Block. Hydrogen penetrates into cast iron and makes it even more fragile, which means that the temperature cycling of your engine will form cracks in your engine, finaly resulting in coolant or oil leak, or even a catastophic engine failure. You can try this on wreck, if you have any, but not in your premium car. I also want to try this, but not in my Lexus. Regards/ Råger

Today, when I was to the “Do It Yourself Workshop” at the gas station, got the car up on the lift, removed the engine shield and looked down into my tool box for my homemade special tool for adjustment of the play in the steering rack. Couldn’t find that bolt that fits into the adjustment nut, not there. Frustrated I put the engine shield back, without taking a measure on that adjustment nut, was sure that I had forgot my “special tool” somewhere in my garage at home, but no, I’ve lost it. I have to go and buy a new bolt with a head that fits into the adjustment nut, but I don’t know the size. Could some one tell me the size of a bolt that would fit (mm pls.) or the size of the bolt head to be used? /Rager

I have GS 300, and I haven't experienced this problem in my car. But, the sound that you are describing sounds to me like a chattering relay. Put your head under the dashboard and try to find out were the sound is coming from. Relay chattering can occur due to bad electrical contacts due to oxidation. Pull out every suspected relay, spray on socket pins with WD40 or even better CRC 5-56. Do the same thing with ALL fuses in the car. Also check if some relay is on its way out of the relay socket, due to ageing and vibration Look for miscoloured relay covers due to overheating. If found, replace relay. Finally, if this doesn’t work, find the faulty relay and replace. /Råger

Hello DCfish I'm having the same problem with the display. However my display is tailored to German language, though I’m living in Sweden (no tailoring for such a small market). Display shows such as “UKW” instead of “FM” and similar. The code on the Cassette lid is P3714. I like to buy a compatible display, even if not 100 % compatible regarding language adaptation. Regards, lervik@bredband.net or thomas.lilja@tako.se

I have a GS300 -00, living in Sweden, a lot of snow here more that 5 months per year. Besides good winter tires, not "Mudd & Snow" tires, wrong rubber mixture. You need real winter tires. And, you need a bag of sand in the trunk, just behind the rear seat, not much 40 - 50 kg will do. The car i very capable compared to other rear wheel powered cars, due to the anti spin system that works very well when the switch is in Snow Mode. However the car is somewhat light in the rear when it is slippery. /Råger

Possibly not the right kind of Power Steering Fluid in your system. I live in Sweden, cold climate here. I replaced the the fluid with Red Line P/S fluid. Significant improvement both in power assistance and noise. Of course there are other good fluids, I just happened to try Red Line. Best if you drain the system before refilling, but you should be ok without draining, changing the fluid in the reservoar two times, running the engine for a minut in between. Do not run the engine with a only partially filled P/S system, could ruin your P/S pump in seconds. Lift the front wheels and turn the steeering wheel while refilling, if you have drained the system. /Regards Rager P.S. Let me know if it helped

I had/am having the same problem with my year 2000 GS 300. First thing was to install a filter in the return line to the reservoar, that removed the uneven power steering (and protects the rack in case of pump disaster). The core of the problem could be in the solenoid at the P/S pump, however it is not sold separately. It is getting better if you excersie the solenoid by disconnecting it and apply shortly 12 V directly to the solenoid, there is a connector at the cable down at the side of the engine under the P/S pump, apply 12 V for just a second, several times, change polarity each time. You should hear a clicking sound from the solenoid, otherwise, it is stuck. An improvement for all GS:es before year 03, is to replace the P/S control module under the dashbord and install the one for the 03, it provides 0,5 - 1,0 V more on the solenoid. Of course, won't help if the solenoid is completely stuck 89650-30610 is the part number for the ECU out of the GS Sport Design in 2003, price 278 USD. That is an improvement for all GS:s, also when your car is not having a problem. Further improvement can be expected by replacing the P/S fluid with "Red Line Power Steering Fluid", or similar compatible high performance fluid. If that doesn't help you have to go for a complete new P/S pump, very expensive. The rack is probably ok, if you haven't been driving around with a P/S pump that is completely run down, then all the metal fragments would have ruined the seals in the rack. Good Luck Rager

Not a good idea to change the ignition cables if you don't have to. Be carefull not to break them, they are very special and very expensive, almost Euro 100 per cable. Instead measure them with a multimeter, any value below 200 kOhm is ok. Regards Rager

Do you have difficulties to read? That is exactly what I stated, it could be done less than 90 minutes! You are so excelent, aren't you? /Rager

Took me almost three hours to change the sparkplugs when I did this for the first time, including cleaning the throttle body. I consider myself to be an experienced mechanic. Of course, when you have done this a few times, you can probably do this in less than 90 minutes, when you don't have to carefully check how everything is mounted, before you tear it apart. /Rager

1. Put gear in Neutral. Do not bother about the engine, let it rew. Over rew protection protects the engine and you will have power steering and brakes fully operational. 2. Stop the car. 3. Turn off ignition 4. Have it fixed. Never turn the ignition off during drivning! /Rager

"Pry it out carefully, some pressure clips hold it in. Then apply insulation around it, voila." Do you mean that it is the vent uotlet or the hose that is the problem? I suppose that you can not pull out the hose to any extent? I thougt that I had to remove the Glove Compartment to get to it. By insulation, you probably mean some plastic foam material? If you have a link to the applicable thread, please post it. Regards, Råger

I have a GS -00. A rattling noise coming from the vent at passenger side, to the right of the glove compartment, sounds like plastic parts rubbing to each other, how to fix it? I've searched the forum and seen the topic before, but no solution presented. Please help, my car is in all other respects a quit car, this is the only flaw. Regards, Råger

I have had that clicking/ticking noise in the fan motor in several cars of different makes. It seems to be the carbon brushes that make this noise; I have also had it for a short time in my GS. My experience is that the noise disappears after some time. Manually control the fan speed, use to make the noise disappears, the noise that I’m talking about is only present at low fan speed. I your case, considering it is not working at all now, probably the brushes in the fan motor are stuck or worn out. Try to knock on the motor, that could help if they are stuck. Such motor can usually be repaired at a good car electric shop, provided that you can take out the fan motor. /Råger

I have GS300 second gen. First, my experience is that you only have to open the drain plug under the radiator, and give it time to drain. Most of the old fluid will come out. Use your mouth (big lungs) or ore preferably pressurized air blowing into the filler hole, that will take out about another litre or so. What’s left now, is insignificant. If you change your coolant in due time, you don't have flush the system, the fluid should be clear looking. Secondly, is it really that big of a deal to add Toyota red coolant? The very most important thing is that you do not mix red coolant with the blue or green type, that might cause a jelly-like substance in your coolant system, real bad $$$$. As an emergency or temporary solution, you could use any after market coolant that is red, but never ever blue or green, the yellow propylene type, I don't know, but probably not. Most red coolants meet the same specifications. The problem is to verify that the particular after market coolant that you are buying, is identical with the Toyota spec. /Råger

In tests, the Toyota filter scores as avarage. There are several aftermarket filter that are better, such as MAHLE OC235 (european filter, possibly hard to find at your side of the ocean), that has a larger filter area, though the outer size of the filter can is the same as the Toyota filter. I know that some US brands also scores better than the OEM. /Råger

sakataj Possibly you misinterpreted my issue. It is not the inline filter that I installed. When I did put that inline filter (Magnafine) in, it was due to the bad condition of the p/s fluid. First thing was the flush. Considering that I don't know, whether it is the pump or the rack that is on its way going down. I wanted at least to prevent that metal flakes from the pump would also damage my rack. Didn't expect the p/s fluid to be in such a bad condition. My issue is the solenoid at the pump. Can it be easily disassembled and re-installed with the pump still on the engine, without causing more concerns. Does the solenoid have a screen that can clog? Or, any other suggestion regarding heavy steering. There is no solenoid on the rack. There is plenty of information on p/s for 1:st gen GS, but almost nothing on 2:nd gen. Your ideas are welcome! Regards, Råger

I have recently bought a GS300 2000 with only 5 200 miles. [bought the car from an old man who got a stroke, engine oil not changed or topped up since year 2003, however only 1 000 miles in last 6 years and well polished inside out. All fluids now changed. The car looks like brand new, after cleaning off all ArmorAll at the interior.] Only issue; my steering is heavy. The p/s ATF-oil looked like old coffe, from a coffe brewer with a broken filter. I have flushed the P/S system with Dexron III and installed an inline filter. That made the steering smoother and removed the sticky feeling, but still heavy, doesn't feel right. Could it be the solenoid at the p/s pump? I guess it has the same function as the solenoid at the rack for the 1:st generation GS, extensively discussed in other sections of this forum. I need some advice here: Is the solenoid at the pump identical to the solenoid mounted at the rack for the 1:st generation GS? Does it have a screen that can be fouled? I realize, from a picture in the downloaded Service Manual, that if I take out the solenoid, a plunger will also fall out, right? Is it possible to re-install this with the p/s pump still mounted to the engine? Is there anything else that I should consider? BTW, Any opinion on magic additives to the p/s ATF-oil, promising that steering will improve and "recondition the seals? (I have no leaks.) /Råger (That's my name, nothing else)