Rager

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About Rager

  • Rank
    Club Member
  • Birthday 01/23/1951

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  • First Name
    Råger

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    GS450H
  • Lexus Year
    2007
  • Location
    Other / Non-US
  1. I'm living in Sweden, have a GS300 -00. Nokian winter tyres are outstanding compared to any other winter tyres. It is the rubber mixture and the very tiny ribs on Nokian that provides the superior grip. /Rager
  2. I hate to be wrong! :chairshot:<_< I'm pretty sure that you can find some cast iron also in the 4.3 l engine with the aluminum block. :whistles: Anyway, this gadget actually saves some fuel, but you have to add the missing amount of energy by producing hydrogen. So possibly, in states or countries where the gasoline is highly taxed, you can save som money. But this is a messy gadget, it is not "install and forget". /Råger
  3. Hydrogen is harmfull to your Cast Iron Engine Block. Hydrogen penetrates into cast iron and makes it even more fragile, which means that the temperature cycling of your engine will form cracks in your engine, finaly resulting in coolant or oil leak, or even a catastophic engine failure. You can try this on wreck, if you have any, but not in your premium car. I also want to try this, but not in my Lexus. Regards/ Råger
  4. Today, when I was to the “Do It Yourself Workshop” at the gas station, got the car up on the lift, removed the engine shield and looked down into my tool box for my homemade special tool for adjustment of the play in the steering rack. Couldn’t find that bolt that fits into the adjustment nut, not there. Frustrated I put the engine shield back, without taking a measure on that adjustment nut, was sure that I had forgot my “special tool” somewhere in my garage at home, but no, I’ve lost it. I have to go and buy a new bolt with a head that fits into the adjustment nut, but I don’t know the size. Could some one tell me the size of a bolt that would fit (mm pls.) or the size of the bolt head to be used? /Rager
  5. I have GS 300, and I haven't experienced this problem in my car. But, the sound that you are describing sounds to me like a chattering relay. Put your head under the dashboard and try to find out were the sound is coming from. Relay chattering can occur due to bad electrical contacts due to oxidation. Pull out every suspected relay, spray on socket pins with WD40 or even better CRC 5-56. Do the same thing with ALL fuses in the car. Also check if some relay is on its way out of the relay socket, due to ageing and vibration Look for miscoloured relay covers due to overheating. If found, replace relay. Finally, if this doesn’t work, find the faulty relay and replace. /Råger
  6. Hello DCfish I'm having the same problem with the display. However my display is tailored to German language, though I’m living in Sweden (no tailoring for such a small market). Display shows such as “UKW” instead of “FM” and similar. The code on the Cassette lid is P3714. I like to buy a compatible display, even if not 100 % compatible regarding language adaptation. Regards, lervik@bredband.net or thomas.lilja@tako.se
  7. I have a GS300 -00, living in Sweden, a lot of snow here more that 5 months per year. Besides good winter tires, not "Mudd & Snow" tires, wrong rubber mixture. You need real winter tires. And, you need a bag of sand in the trunk, just behind the rear seat, not much 40 - 50 kg will do. The car i very capable compared to other rear wheel powered cars, due to the anti spin system that works very well when the switch is in Snow Mode. However the car is somewhat light in the rear when it is slippery. /Råger
  8. Possibly not the right kind of Power Steering Fluid in your system. I live in Sweden, cold climate here. I replaced the the fluid with Red Line P/S fluid. Significant improvement both in power assistance and noise. Of course there are other good fluids, I just happened to try Red Line. Best if you drain the system before refilling, but you should be ok without draining, changing the fluid in the reservoar two times, running the engine for a minut in between. Do not run the engine with a only partially filled P/S system, could ruin your P/S pump in seconds. Lift the front wheels and turn the steeering wheel while refilling, if you have drained the system. /Regards Rager P.S. Let me know if it helped
  9. I had/am having the same problem with my year 2000 GS 300. First thing was to install a filter in the return line to the reservoar, that removed the uneven power steering (and protects the rack in case of pump disaster). The core of the problem could be in the solenoid at the P/S pump, however it is not sold separately. It is getting better if you excersie the solenoid by disconnecting it and apply shortly 12 V directly to the solenoid, there is a connector at the cable down at the side of the engine under the P/S pump, apply 12 V for just a second, several times, change polarity each time. You should hear a clicking sound from the solenoid, otherwise, it is stuck. An improvement for all GS:es before year 03, is to replace the P/S control module under the dashbord and install the one for the 03, it provides 0,5 - 1,0 V more on the solenoid. Of course, won't help if the solenoid is completely stuck 89650-30610 is the part number for the ECU out of the GS Sport Design in 2003, price 278 USD. That is an improvement for all GS:s, also when your car is not having a problem. Further improvement can be expected by replacing the P/S fluid with "Red Line Power Steering Fluid", or similar compatible high performance fluid. If that doesn't help you have to go for a complete new P/S pump, very expensive. The rack is probably ok, if you haven't been driving around with a P/S pump that is completely run down, then all the metal fragments would have ruined the seals in the rack. Good Luck Rager
  10. Not a good idea to change the ignition cables if you don't have to. Be carefull not to break them, they are very special and very expensive, almost Euro 100 per cable. Instead measure them with a multimeter, any value below 200 kOhm is ok. Regards Rager
  11. Do you have difficulties to read? That is exactly what I stated, it could be done less than 90 minutes! You are so excelent, aren't you? /Rager
  12. Took me almost three hours to change the sparkplugs when I did this for the first time, including cleaning the throttle body. I consider myself to be an experienced mechanic. Of course, when you have done this a few times, you can probably do this in less than 90 minutes, when you don't have to carefully check how everything is mounted, before you tear it apart. /Rager
  13. 1. Put gear in Neutral. Do not bother about the engine, let it rew. Over rew protection protects the engine and you will have power steering and brakes fully operational. 2. Stop the car. 3. Turn off ignition 4. Have it fixed. Never turn the ignition off during drivning! /Rager
  14. "Pry it out carefully, some pressure clips hold it in. Then apply insulation around it, voila." Do you mean that it is the vent uotlet or the hose that is the problem? I suppose that you can not pull out the hose to any extent? I thougt that I had to remove the Glove Compartment to get to it. By insulation, you probably mean some plastic foam material? If you have a link to the applicable thread, please post it. Regards, Råger
  15. I have a GS -00. A rattling noise coming from the vent at passenger side, to the right of the glove compartment, sounds like plastic parts rubbing to each other, how to fix it? I've searched the forum and seen the topic before, but no solution presented. Please help, my car is in all other respects a quit car, this is the only flaw. Regards, Råger