sump

Use toyo over prived fluid or something like Amsoil ATF. If the fluid is brown, not the greatest but okay. It is smells burnt... You have issues if smells brunt.

I have never taken my lexus's into a dealer for tranny work. Change every 30 to 50K and be fine.

All these links etc are junk..Go to Toyota Tech, pay the $15 and download all FSM items, TSB etc.

hi guys i am trying to replace the pcv valve on my 97 es300 as well, i think its about time it gets anew one..but..first time ia m doing this, where is it?!!! does anyone have a pic or maybe can help direct me to where it is..

Do a search since I know there are a zillion pixs of them. Pass side on the rear cover. If you have not changed it (about every 12 to 15K) , the grommet WILL break. No big deal. Get some pilers and fish it out of the hole. At least Lexus got smart and made them out of metal in the newer years.

so change the EV then...the parts are not expensive...My compressor is going but I leak tested with nitrogen, vac'ed out and installed oil and R134...Works mint and the issue is there was a leak at the dryer (based on oil around fitting) and leak testing.

But I would leak test it first...Compressor opertaing? ...Not much to an AC system at all.

I agree. follow the instructions....It took me like 10 minutes to get my opener to work....I still dislike this model year.

Add Amsoil ATF, clean the SS filter and be done.

I use chemical guys and optimum shine.

I agree with SW here and that has been the advise from Lexus for many YEARS....

Anyone ever us BG44K fuel air induction system clean up service? Have a 04 ES, runs great, 75000 miles. $120 to have it done. any opinions would be helpful. Thanks.

Tim

What I would try first is Amsoil PI...Run before an oil change..See what happens since it might save you about $100 before BG44.

I would search since this is WAY old here...like over 8 years old..

Pull carpet back, pull white plastic toward rear wheels and remove......Takes about 3 minutes to do a complete change over..

I'm guessing it was original since there was no sticker on the t-belt cover when I bought the car a few years ago.

135K on OEM belt...year I would change it.....ASAP

Why not ask on Autopia forum....Better crowd

Hi I previosly asked about cleaning a MAF sensor, after it is cleaned how do I reset the computer. Must I take it somewhere and have it reset or can I reset it my self by disconnecting the battery terminals. Thanks to all who reply

If you cleaned it why do you need to reset the ECM? Leave it alone.

I 98 is a simple OBD II..Any reader will read it. I would but a reader since they will save you money in the end.

is this timing belt original?

yes you are probably right..but as this problem has been literally doing my head in for the last couple of months, and I'm so wanting to pinpoint the offending component for my own piece of mind..and the fact that on inspection, everything else around the front suspension seems to be in remarkably good order (the previous one owner really looked after this car)..and, have to consider that over here we just dont have access to the huge pool of cheap after market parts like you guys do (genuine toyota/lexus parts are notoriously expensive here)..I'm going to just start with the top strut mounts..I do the job this tuesday..I'll post the outcome..

Just trying to save $$$$. I know my lower spring isolators were shots, yours will be too (they are rubber), and bumps stop will be gone/hard as a rock/ The boots might be okay and I hope the bearings look nice. Just that it would suck to put just the top mounts on and then down the road the rubber seats go (metal on metal), or the bump stops split...

Good luck..I had the noise for about 2 months and could not take it anymore...Worst part is the damn spring compressor.....like a rocket when doing it.

yes, well, today, this afternoon in fact, I took it back to the same mechanic, with the car rattling all over tha place..and insisted he take it for another drive..just slowly..on a sealed road..and sure enough..without any prompting, he came back and said it is definitely..100%, without question..top strut/shockie mounts..then I came home and found your post..nice work my friend..you are spot on..thanks

But you are nuts to just replace that one item. That is why I posted above to replace other items while you are in there. The mounts are the highest item..Do the items I listed and be done for like 100+K miles.

hi, I recently bought an es300, 2000 model, my first lexus, so I know very little about them. The car has done 172000kms and has been serviced all its life at the local lexus dealer. The log book is full and up to date. The car, in almost every respect, is perfect. However, at low speeds, over slight bumps and repairs in the road, the front end rattles, incessantly..the rattle seems to come from the wheel arch area..both sides, but definitely louder from the right side..its rather a, perhaps, mechanical type of rattle..most annoying..has anybody got any ideas, could it be the shock/struts? I thought perhaps someone may have had a similar problem with their es300 and resolved it..I contacted the lexus dealer, and they are a lot of help..they have been doing the services..but I bet they never actually drove the car, so how would they know about the rattle..there is no record of this problem in the log, which is strange..as it is extremely noticable and annoying,

Sounds like the issue I had....There is a TSB on this about mounts.

First I tried what some on here said worked..spraying lube in proper mount locations...NOT

Then I tried the sway bar mounts...$18 from Lexus and about 25 minutes to install....NOT

Lastly, I just replaced both front struts (KYB: GR-2), Lower insulators (Lexus/toyo part), upper insulators (Lexus/toyo part), bump stops (Lexus/toyo part), Seat Backs (Lexus/toyo part), mount plate (Lexus/toyo part) and lasty the new-and-improved mounts(Lexus/toyo part), ...NOISE GONE...

Took about 1 hour to remove all and install new.

Well worth the $420 for all the parts to my door. Lexus wanted over 1,000 to do...

I use Amsoil 12mo/ 25,000 and it works great. I usually am closer to 16k after 12mo. Good luck!

In your car...good luck on that..Unless you post a UOA.

My parents have a 1997 es300 with only 65,000 miles. They've had no problems with the car, but it does have the original timing belt still.

My parents had the 60k service done about a year ago and they suggested the next service be the timing belt.

I called the local dealer last week and the service guy thought it was okay to just replace the timing belt, drive belt, water pump, thermostat and gasket for $998.00.

He suggested to skip the tensioner and pulleys (add $500) and do those at the 100k timeline.

I called the local Toyota dealer and they quoted $857.00

I'm tempted to do the belts and water pump myself, if I didn't have to do the tensioner etc..

Can you please give me your opinion if it is safe to skip replacing the tensioner and pulleys due to the low miles, even though the car is nearing 13 years old?

I have a feeling this is a non-interference engine, but I'm not positive.

I'm not sure why the thermostat is included in the $998 quote, I would assume that was replaced along with the coolant at the 60k service.

thanks in advance.

Seems high...Do the WP and TB...You can do the termo / seal and drive belt yourself in about 1 hour and about $50. Your car is the non-interference engine engine...A TB should be about $500 from a Lex dealer and about 5% less from a toyo dealer.

I have an Actron OBD II AutoScanner CP9175. Pretty nice unit but I think it is post 1996 cars only. Check it out:

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9175-AutoSc...4207&sr=1-1

The problem with that scanner is it is not CAN approved and will be junk if the perons ever gets a newer car...