cduluk

Woah, that's crazy! What do the (Display, Climate, Info, Menu and Map) buttons now bring up, respectively? I would try what maseace suggested above; remove the (-) terminal of the regular battery under the hood. Enter the car, turn the key (as if you're trying to start it)- this will drain any voltage left in the car effectively clearing memory. Leave the battery unplugged for an hour or so. Make sure the keys are removed from ignition. Then, put the terminal back on the battery, start it up and cross your fingers! Report back with any news!

I think Lexus changed their paint for the '10 year due to some environmental problem with the old type... The new paint is supposed to be more environmentally friendly. Whatever that means!

Wow!! That's a pretty nice-looking sports coupe! Is it just me, or does this concept look too... "real"? Real as in it doesn't look as "concept-esque" as most of Lexus' prior "concepts", those that we'd NEVER see in real life. I feel like they could produce this shell tomorrow, put an LS engine in it, and market it as the SC460 or something like that. It would be nice if they'd produce something like this with an SC430 sticker price... I think the SC430 had trouble selling since it was too "boring" (let's face it, most sport coupe drivers want something with sharp curves.... sort of like this new concept). And i don't think the IS-C is doing as well as they had hoped, is it? I say, put an SC430 sticker on this thing and i think Lexus might do very well with it! What do you think?

Lenore, why would you have to be young?? LOL

What is the "Shift gear bulb" that's out?

As long as you have the headlight switch to "OFF" you have nothing to worry about. The ballast and igniters do not hold a charge once shut off. You can reach behind the headlight, unscrew the big circular cover behind the low beam light, pry off the "wire" tabs around the bulb, pull the bulb out, put a new bulb in place, push the wire tabs in place to secure the bulb, put the cover back on, and you're done! You can also get the bulbs on eBay for pretty cheap. Just make sure they're the same bulb as the one you pull out.

The "X" in all the Lexus SUV's stands for Crossover. The "RX" stands for "Recreational Crossover", the "GX" stands for "Grand Crossover" and the "LX" stands for "Luxury Crossover".

You're right 100%. You absolutely "can" dig the blade out of the shell, and glue it into a new shell. I've done it! You can buy a new shell (with a blank attached) from eBay or wherever. When you get it, dremel away at the plastic holding the blade in place, pull the blade out, and swap with yours. Add a little superglue, and you're set. I know this from experience.

That's great! I doubt the HID kit will last long, but you can always replace the bulbs over time. Philips make the best HID bulbs, followed by Osram. Either will last you forever. And i'm glad you found dcfish- he's without a doubt the LOC "go to" guy for nav/radio stuff! Definitely post back with pictures when you get it installed :D

That's awesome!! I had a 2003 Rx300 before my Rx400h, and i must say i miss it dearly. The RX300 still looks so modern- the curves and lines are perfect! Do you have any idea as to what you want to do with the headlights? I'm assuming your RX300 came factory with the halogen lights, right? If so, were you planning on doing a custom projector retrofit, buying an aftermarket set, or installing the OEM HID version headlights? After doing so many retrofits on the Rx300, i'd personally stay away from trying to do a projector retrofit. They look good but they're not worth the extra work and maintenance (yes, maintaining the headlights, cleaning out the moisture, etc. is a pain) and personally i think the Rx300 factory HID reflector set-up looks beautiful. If i were you, i'd buy a used set of 01-03 OEM HID RX300 headlights and install them. HID headlights were an option for the 01-03 model years. The factory HID headlights are the same shape as the halogen type (which means the attachment points are 100% identical) but the inner workings and reflector bowl shape is quite different. The ballasts are held within the headlights also. Here's one for sale on ebay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEADLIGHT-HEAD-LIGHT-LAMP-HEADLAMP-LEXUS-RX300-00-01-02-03-XENON-HID-/140853573965?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARX300&hash=item20cb86f94d&vxp=mtr What were you planning to change about your taillights? Definitely post pictures of your work! :) And welcome!

Agreed, guys! I was thinking the same thing- they are definitly targeting the right market. I haven't seen the new Accord in person, but from what i can tell it looks very nice! I haven't been very impressed with the new Carmy...

Hey guys, You know how on Youtube's homepage they sometimes play ads? Tonight i actually watched one without reaching for the pause button! It was an ad for the 2013 Honda Accord. The ad is in my opinion, PERFECT. Beautiful car and beautiful advertisement- very well done. What do you guys think? http://youtu.be/H3dr8XFQr4k http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=H3dr8XFQr4k#!

Unfortunately, the trim isn't sold separately from the glass. I checked eBay and no luck. Your best bet is to buy the glass/trim combo from parts.com. They're the cheapest place to buy new OEM parts from. They're selling the part for $97.19 (or $108.68 if your RX is Japan built). Rest assured these are OEM factory parts. And the part is the same for all 04-09 RX models. http://www.parts.com...iagramCallOut=1 You'll notice you have several options. The "green" vs "gray" refers to the glass tint. All 04-09 US RX's have the gray tint, so you'd pick the gray. Select the side (either left or right) and select either US built or Japan built. To see where your RX was built, check the sticker on the drivers side door pillar. This sticker will contain the VIN number as well as place of manufacture. When you get the part, carefully remove the trim and either "goop" it to your car's glass, or get some 3M double sided tape. Good luck!

If your AFS light has come on, it either means you've pressed the toggle button by accident (this button gives you the ability to turn AFS on or off) or it's a warning that a component of the AFS or auto-leveling system is malfunctioning. Is the light blinking or is it solid? Does pressing the button turn the light off?

I'd suggest Collinite "Insulator Wax" #845. This stuff is used by pretty much every professional detailer and body shop i've been to and i've been using it for several years with outstanding results. It's easy to apply and remove (apply with cotton pad and remove with a microfiber cloth) and lasts a VERY long time. I apply it in April and the paint is still "slippery" (even through rain and sun) in August. They use this wax on boats, airplanes and even power lines. The stuff holds up great!

Thanks for posting! :) You're right, the RX is indeed very reliable and with proper care hold their age well! Just today i had a guy come up to me in my '08 Rx400h (looks the same as the RX350) and ask, "Is it a '10 or an '11?" He was stunned when i told him it was a 2008!

I agree with LexiRX330. Once a day keep adding a layer of touch-up until the touch-up is "raised" just higher than the surrounding undamaged paint (the touch-up will be like a little mountain). Then let it dry a week or so. After a week, buy a piece of 2000 grit sandpaper and get a little wooden block (around the size of 2"x3"x.75"). Cut the paper bigger than the block and wrap one side of the block with the sandpaper. Wet the sandpaper (water is used to prevent the paper from getting clogged up) and lightly (with as little pressure as possible) sand over the mountain of touch-up until it's level with the surrounding paint. You MUST block-sand a chip,. This is a MUST. You can't just fold the sandpaper and start sanding the chip. Using the block creates equal pressure. You only want the mountain to be sanded down level. Without the block, the surrounding un-damaged paint will get sanded down too much and possibly burn through to the color coat. Do what this guy's doing at 55 seconds. This is block sanding (you're just doing it to the clearcoat). After the mountain of touch-up is sanded down level with the surrounding area, buy some Mequiar's "Ultimate Compound" or 3M's "scratch Remover". Get an old sock or T-shirt, put some of the compound on it, and rub the painted finish. After a while, the "dullness" of the paint will turn shiny. Good luck! :)

I tried the ISC reset procedure but it hasn't eliminated the shaking, unfortunately. And lemon, i never showed the Dealer the inverter leak... I could tell the leak was definitely "old" and i know the response from the dealer would be to wipe it away and see if it reappears. I never wiped it clean but the leak isn't getting worse. I might be due for spark plugs- i know they've never been done. And i've had the oil, oil filter, and air filter replaced twice a year (the last time being done in July). Are the sparkplugs easy to get to on this engine? I'll take a look. Thanks for the continued help guys! EDIT: I should also note that i'm still having the "buzzing" noise when the A/C is on. Whenever i have the air conditioning button activated and set the inside temperature below 70, i get this "buzzsaw" noise coming from the engine compartment. It literally sounds like a buzzsaw. The sound continues until i set the A/C off. I've been so busy i haven't made it to the dealer. Could the noise be related to the engine shaking?

Thankfully i've always used premium gas, either 91 or 93 depending on the station. That's a good idea lenore, i'll try that out this afternoon and see if it makes a difference.

My only concern would be whether or not the owner serviced the car for all 5k intervals. 55k miles in one year is a lot, and would require maintenance, well, once a month. You should definitly call a Lexus dealer to inquire about service records. If you cannot find proof that the car was serviced properly at Lexus, i would assume the services were not done and avoid puchasing the vehicle. Good luck!

I don't have any input on price, but i do have to say that Lexus did an awesome job re-designing the front end of the 2013 RX- it looks beautiful! At least compared to the '10-12... claybarb- your new RX looks amazing! That's a wonderful color, too! Is it Claret Mica?

Hey guys, For the past few months or so, i've noticed what i'd describe as a rather violent "shake" every time the engine starts in my '08 Rx400h (when the car's at rest). If i am sitting with the ignition "ON" (in P or D) while in a parking lot or at a light, it's very obvious when the engine starts. I've always noticed a minor shake, but it's become increasingly more violent as time goes on. When the engine starts, i can feel the shake and the entire car will "rock". However while driving, i don't notice when the engine kicks in, at least no more than i did before. It's only when the car is at rest. Any ideas as to what the issue could be? It's A 2008 with about 80k miles. I still have the extended warranty on it (up to 100k miles), so do you think this would be covered? Thanks in advance for any input!

I'm concerned with the instructions in the Lexus manual, and in my experience Lexus leather requires a lot of care. The leather used in the 02-06 ES is VERY sensitive and will crease and crack quite easily without proper care. I used Lexol leather conditioner in my '03 RX300 (which is the same leather in the 02-06 ES) and i believe it made things worse. Come to find out, Lexol can be damaging to the dyes used on Lexus leather, and i swear it caused my leather to crack prematurely. At one point i replaced the leather in my Rx300 and switched to Leatherique's leather "rejuvenator" (conditioner) followed by Leatherique's "Prestine Clean" (cleaner). Note the cleaner is applied after the conditioner. This product is rather expensive, but it works VERY well. I've been using it for several years with perfect results. And unlike most other conditioners which leave the leather slimy and shiny, the Leatherique leaves the matte finish to the leather like it's supposed to. It also removes the dirt from any creases in the leather unlike any other conditioner i've used. Another notable difference is how soft the Leatherique makes the leather- i didn't understand the name "rejuvenator" until i used it! Note that you should only clean/condition the leather 3-4 times a year (i do mine in April, Aug, Jan) and no more frequently. Conditioning the leather too often can damage the stitching. However, if you live in a southern state with hot summers and warm winters, you should condition on the 4x a year end. It's heat and UV that deteriorates the leather and causes it to dry out. Enjoy your new ride!

That must have been what happened, Steve, since the dispatcher telling her to lift up the pedal with her hand got it free- but what i don't get is why putting the car into N didn't work... that should always work!

Definitely! The benefits extend way beyond the fuel savings. From what i can determine, the hybrid models also rank higher in reliability ratings.