F14Scott

Does it sound like this?: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66225

I ask, "What evidence do you have to call my post a lie?" I invite you to devise any test you like, including visiting and riding with me, anytime, to verify my claims. I live in Peoria, IL. If you are not willing to back up your skepticism with any sort of scientifically provable methodology, I suggest you keep your accusations of my dishonesty to yourself until such time as you can get some evidence.

My tank gauge may show full, but it simply had not come off the peg after a topped-off fill up. That stands to reason, since, after a 77 mile drive, it had used fewer than two gallons. That trip meter was reset at the fill up. That tank average was for the tank that started full 77.4 miles prior to my taking that photo. I filled up here: 2801 Lindbergh Boulevard, Springfield, IL 62704-6535 (Huck's Convenient Food Store) I took the photo as I drove past here (on the highway): 401 River Rd, East Peoria, IL 61611 (Walmart Supercenter) I invite you to Google Maps the distance between the locations. In this car, I have constructed the following approximate "no wind" MPG matrix, using long highway drives of at least an hour's duration: 80 MPH - 30 MPG 75 MPH - 32 MPG 70 MPH - 34 MPG 65 MPH - 36 MPG 60 MPH - 38 MPG 55 MPH - 41 MPG

I had the same problem; it was the cam bearings that needed to be replaced. See my thread on the same topic: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66225&st=0&p=418109&fromsearch=1entry418109

This guy. http://stores.ebay.com/factory-xenon Dealer: $175 Discount Lexus OEM part store: $140 Ebay factory-xenon: <$28 Here's the page: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230462328370&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2225wt_1165

The likelihood of 0.3 extra quarts of oil in the crankcase and sump doing any damage to your car is extremely low. In 25 years and a couple dozen cars and motorcycles, I've rounded up to the nearest quart and never had a problem. Large quantities of extra oil (like two or more extra quarts) can push past the rings and/or froth, but a few extra ounces won't hurt you.

I think they replaced the intake cams' bearings. Took about 8 hours in the shop.

2007 IS250 RWD Front 225/40R18 88Y, Rear 255/40R18 95Y. Bridgestone Blizzak They work well in snow and ice, and are not bad in the summer, either. Good grip, predictable, quiet.

2007 IS250 RWD Front 225/40R18 88Y, Rear 255/40R18 95Y Bridgestone Blizzak 61,000 miles Mobile 1 0W-30 75+ mile highway drive 60 MPH with a 5-10 knot tailwind 40.1 MPG

Lexus did the TSIB for free, and the starter has not made that sound in two days. Success!

I have had this starter rattle intermittently since I bought my 2007 IS250 two years ago with 27,000 miles on her. Now, with just under 60K, the rattle is getting more frequent. I've had the car at the dealer for other issues and have complained of the noise three separate times, but they claimed they were never able to duplicate it and had no idea what might be causing it. So, I started using my phone to record video of every startup until I caught it on film. Amazingly, when I emailed the video to my service advisor, he immediately found the TSIB related to the noise and scheduled my service. I could draw several possible conclusions from this correlation, some of them not flattering to the dealer. I will, instead, simply recommend that proof of the condition, easily e-mailed proof, seemed to initiate immediate dealer action.

My 2007 IS250 RWD is having a similar issue. With the engine hot or cold, AC on or off, I get the following symptom: Normal Start Sequence Depress brake. Depress starter button. Engine cranks. Engine fires. Something gives a single audible "click" as the engine spools to idle. Sounds like CHU CHU CHU VrooOOOO (CLICK) oooom Occasional Faulty Start Sequence Depress brake. Depress starter button. Engine cranks. Engine fires. Something gives a repeated audible "click" (about as fast as I can make my tongue "motorboat" against the roof of my mouth) as the engine spools to idle. Sounds like CHU CHU CHU VrooOOOO (CLICK.CLICK.CLICK.CLICK.CLICK.CLICK) oooom Had it into the dealer yesterday, but we tried it, together about 20 times, both hot and cold, and the fault didn't happen once. Then, predictably, I went to run errands and it happened on the next start. I'm thinking the starter is having trouble disengaging, but have no way to tell.

I know of very few airplanes that aren't flying by about 150 MPH. I suspect cars, with their general wing-like shape (flat on bottom, rounded on top), begin to want to enter ground effect and lift at that speed. Race cars emply big wings to generate downforce. Our street cars' little spoilers would not cut it.

Gas with higher octane than an engine needs (for its manufacturer-determined compression ratio, timing, boost in turbo and supercharged engines, etc.) does not improve performance. In fact, because the higher octane fuel is less explosive, it will actually perform slightly worse. To maximize performance and to minimize cost, one should use the lowest grade of gas possible, without knocking or engaging the anti-knock functions of the engines. Since modern engines won't knock enough to hear (precisely because of the anti knock circuit kicking-in before audible knocking occurs), one can only follow the manufacturer's recommendation and assume that grade of gas is working properly. Putting 100+ octane aviation fuel in one's IS won't improve performance and will only drain the wallet faster. What does any of that have to do with what I said? Hmm. Nothing? I didn't mean to quote you. I had intended only to reply to the thread, not to your post. I must have clicked the wrong reply button.

Gas with higher octane than an engine needs (for its manufacturer-determined compression ratio, timing, boost in turbo and supercharged engines, etc.) does not improve performance. In fact, because the higher octane fuel is less explosive, it will actually perform slightly worse. To maximize performance and to minimize cost, one should use the lowest grade of gas possible, without knocking or engaging the anti-knock functions of the engines. Since modern engines won't knock enough to hear (precisely because of the anti knock circuit kicking-in before audible knocking occurs), one can only follow the manufacturer's recommendation and assume that grade of gas is working properly. Putting 100+ octane aviation fuel in one's IS won't improve performance and will only drain the wallet faster. If using higher octane caused an engine to perform more poorly then racing fuel would not be of a very high octane. Higher octane benefits engines with higher compression, like racing engines. In an engine without the higher compression, high octane performs worse. Stated another way: Say you had two identical engines, A and B, both with 11:1 compression ratios, designed and tuned to put out 100 HP on 89 octane gas. Put 87 in A, and 89 in B. A's anti-knock circuit will kick in, so A will deliver 95 HP, while B will deliver its designed 100 HP. Now, put 91 in A, and 89 in B. A will burn slightly cooler because 91 octane gas is less volitle, so A will put out 99 HP, while B will still put out 100 HP. Now, add a turbocharger to both engines (boosting compression to 12:1), and put in 91 octane in A, and put 89 octane in B. A will be able to take advantage of the additional octane by burning hotter without detonating, so A will put out 105 HP, while B's anti-knock circuit will come on, limiting its HP to 100.

Gas with higher octane than an engine needs (for its manufacturer-determined compression ratio, timing, boost in turbo and supercharged engines, etc.) does not improve performance. In fact, because the higher octane fuel is less explosive, it will actually perform slightly worse. To maximize performance and to minimize cost, one should use the lowest grade of gas possible, without knocking or engaging the anti-knock functions of the engines. Since modern engines won't knock enough to hear (precisely because of the anti knock circuit kicking-in before audible knocking occurs), one can only follow the manufacturer's recommendation and assume that grade of gas is working properly. Putting 100+ octane aviation fuel in one's IS won't improve performance and will only drain the wallet faster.

I use these guys: http://www.warrantydirect.com/ Absolutely awesome service. I have a Suburban that's two years out of regular warranty, but is covered by the WD aftermarket extended warranty that I bought. Zero deductable, everything is covered. Something breaks, I take it to any shop, the shop calls WD, WD approves the repair (they've never denied anything, from little stuff through major components, including electronics), WD gives the shop a credit card number, and the shop fixes the car. Buy the WD warranty early, the earlier the better, as the prices, then, are very low. Here are the details of my WD deal on my pre-owned IS250. 2007 IS 250 Covered Vehicle 2007 IS 250 VIN: JTHBK26267XXXXXXX Lexus Warranty 48month/50,000mile starting 30APR2007 Contract Term 72 months / 100,000 miles Coverage SECURE CARE Deductible Zero ($0) deductible Purchase Date/Selling Price 2008-11-17 / $1,907 Vehicle In-service Date/Mileage 2007-01-01 / 22,850 Expiration Date/Mileage 2014-11-17 / 100,000 Dealer 15898: WARRANTY DIRECT INTERNET AUTO Do the online quote for a good ballpark, but don't sign up. Call WD and ask for a sales rep. They are authorized to knock a few hundred more off the computer price.

We had Best Buy wire an ignition-switched 12v socket into the glove compartment. If we want nav, we pull out the Garmin and its beanbag mount and set it on the dash, then close the GC door on the cord (it doesn't pinch much, so the cord is fine). Otherwise, the Garmin stays in the GC. It stays charged and turns on and off with the car, regardless of its location.

I just had my pads replaced for free on my 07 IS 250 w/ 23,000K. The dealer did tell me, multiple times, that the replacement pads were NOT "high performance" like the originals, and, so, would not stop as hard. While I'm not sure the stopping distances have been affected greatly by pad composition, I do notice the new pads are far less grabby, a nice side benefit. They also do not squeak like the old ones, and my 18" rims are staying much cleaner.

I didn't say "passable" was all I wanted. I said old, dirty oil does a passable job. Start this discussion? Me?

So he doesn't do any maintainence on any of his cars? No air filters, oil filters, oil changes, fluid changes, spark plugs and tune ups nothing? Oil starvation, I agree. Oil intervals, could you tell me how? For instance, if, instead of 5,000 mile changes, I did Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15,000 mile changes, could a dealer tell without sampling the oil (and, by my own experience, I don't think a dealer could tell from a single sample, either). In other words, what are the signs inside an engine that indicate infrequent changes? As for my friend, he is the preventive maintenance worst case scenario. Never changes oil. Never changes filter. Runs his tires almost flat. Fills when the oil low warning message appears. I've never asked about other PM, but I assume it is the same way for all filters, fluids, plugs, etc.: fill, replace, or repair at warning or else at severe performance degredation. Preetty much runs the cars into the ground. However, despite his complete lack of care, they last about 200K. It's amazing.

Can anyone cite a case of any car dealer denying a warranty claim because of improper oil change intervals (or lack of proof of proper oil change intervals)? I ask because: a) I've never heard of that happening. B) Oil related failures are pretty digital. Either your engine has oil flow and pressure and is fine, from a lubrication standpoint, or it lacks pressure or flow and gets scored up or siezes. Even the oldest, dirtiest oil will do a passable job lubricating. * c) I wonder how a dealer could enforce change intervals on pre-owned cars. *I know a guy who never, ever changes his oil or filters. He just adds oil when it's low and keeps driving. He trades his cars at around the 200,000 mile mark. I've, personally, been using a 10,000 mile interval in my 2005 Ford Explorer with Mobil 1, and just passed 80,000 miles. I had the oil tested at 10K and 20K and it showed completely normal in particulates, wear metals, and all other categories. I don't think frequent oil changes are as important in modern engines as they once were in older engines.

I'm the new owner of a 2007 IS 250 RWD with the automatic transmission. I've owned automatics and manual transmissions before, but I'm curious what the preferred techniques are for the use of the automatic in S-mode, specifically what to do with the throttle. Does one blip when down-shifting? Lift momentarily when up-shifting? Or, just just leave the throttle set and let the transmission sort it out? Also, what do the two Power Modes do, exactly? I assume the Power mode slides the shift points to higher rev ranges or speeds and Snow mode slides them lower. Is this correct, and, if so, are there any other changes?