don corleone

another thing you could do is either mod your intake or get a aftermarket one. i have a injen sc400 intake on mine and it sounds like a airplane when i drive down the street. "Wooooooooooooooooosh!" kinda like that. very powerful and menacing. you can just remove the air box and have the filter exposed or buy a rod millen filter and adapter or custom fit a sc400 intake in yours. doesnt help exhaust noise though, just the sound of the intake which is a big difference. and your gas tank in actually IN the trunk behind the rear seat. the hump under your trunk is for your spare tire

check your throttle cable. very common issues. if the throttle cable is forward a little then the car thinks you are pressing the gas pedal. hince the lurch and maybe even a thump! here is the procedure for a 90LS your may be different transmission_servicing_at.pdf

not really a wild guess kinda educated but have u thought about your tires/wheels being the cause. i can see your wheels being a little off balance for sum reason and you can only really feel it while driving under 15 mphs whenever you go over that you wheel spin makes it less noticeable. could this be the issue. try rotating the tires and see if u feel it in the front/back/sides or even replace each tire with the spare and see if it goes away. if so then... if not...?

FIPG= Form In Place Gasket. BUY FROM TOYOTA!!!!! it will save u sum money. Fipg is this stuff in the pic but the red is the Trans/Diff (ok for coolant) fipg you need the black stuff which is made for oil apps. this red stuff will leak if oil contacts it. if u dont use fipg your gasket will leak again. trust me i had to change my cam seals and valve seals because i used red fipg. live and learn

no problem at all but like eatingupblacktop said this topic goes on and on and on LOL. nothing personal tho. SW give me sum time and i will search these forums like indiana jones until i compile enuff links and info to have a ALL GEN LS FAQ. sounds simple enuff right?

FOR THE LAST AND (HOPEFULLY) FINAL TIME NO PRE 97 ENGINE IS INTERFERENCE! I REPEAT NO PRE 97 ENGINE IS INTERFERENCE. sorry but this is the second most talked about topic on this site. here is some info DIRECT FROM LEXUS that will state the FACT that no engine built before 97 is interference. dont believe your neighbor mechanic or even me for that matter read it for your self. name of the article: "interference verification check for ohc engine.pdf" if you look at the legend you can see that "Manufacturer does not identify engines as having possible interference problems." non interference then look at the engines listed and see if yours falls under the list. can a Mod change up the stickys. those stickys are just about useless and most are outdated and have little useable info. interference_verification_check_for_ohc_engine.pdf

yeah that is the area of the crank seal. you will need a harmonic puller with very small screws to get the crank sprocket(not pulley) off the oil pump. i haven't changed is yet since i have no access to it but if that one is leaking then the rear one might be also. look for oil around your trans. and make sure to use the oil fipg GENEROUSLY. when i replaced the rear seal i had to do it twice because of this.

trust me i know very well how expensive these cars are. $1500 tune up on a almost 20 year old car LOL. even the parts alone ran me about $500 but thank God for sites like these and lexls for all the great and FREE info lol. i checked the coils with a multimeter and both check out at 12.25 and the repair manual states they should be between 10200-13800 so they are fine. i also checked my wires, extremely low!!!!! Denso first time fit wires; cost about $90 here are my ohms 1... 0.75 2... 0.89 3... 2.52 4... 2.31 5... 2.40 6... 2.25 7... 1.58 8... 1.61 c... 0.59 c... 0.85 thus why i LOVE denso products (PS both coils are denso originals and wires have 2-3 yrs on them)

sounds kinda like your battery may be dead/going. whenever my batt is low everything will come on (interior lights etc.) but when i try and start the car the dash dims and i will hear "click, click, click." have your battery checked and if it is dead/weak then your alternator most likely is shot. very common. if you have skills with basic tools you can change the alternator your self or pay pep boys $75 to do it. also look into the power steering pump because it will kill your new alts until you fix the problem. also very simple buy a $1 PS hose. dont know why you are not getting much help but most members dont answer simple questions or topics that are very common that's what search is for so dont take it personally

great answer simple and you got your point across LOL. I was thinking the same thing but i wanted to be a little cheap lol

hello everyone long time no post hehehe. my LS has been running roughly for a few weeks and the root of the problem was the ign coil. long story short i fixed that but the car is still running rough. i pulled some of the spark plugs to find that they are dry fouling. for those who dont know the fuel mixture was not being detonated because the coil was not firing. only 4 of the plugs are dry fouled the other 4 are light brown in color which is normal. i saw the NGK IX iridium (same as ones in currently) at auto zone for $7 bucks each and was wondering if i can just buy 4 or should i just go ahead and buy all 8. i know that they can be cleaned but from what i read the fouling goes down deep into the electrode and the part that is cleaned is normally a small section that is exposed. any ideas on the results. im thinking long term. will the 4 older ones crap out before the new ones? are spark plug electrodes know to perform better when newer or do they just transmit a spark? the old plugs have about 30k or so on them. i was thinking about keeping the old ones in case i buy a toyota that needs plugs. never hurts to have extra stuff. Thanks for any and all help and Happy Easter

sorry didn't even think of that. and you hit it on the moneyi have a 90 Ls thanks for the link

hi everyone. i just removed my center armrest to run rca and remote wires to my trunk. now when i drive at night with my lights on the trans shift lights do not work. none. i can still shift normally but the lights do not illuminate. also on the dash when the car is in either park or drive the other light is on. i.e. when in park the drive light shows on the dash and when in drive the park light shows. i just took everything apart again to check and make sure everything was connected correctly and it is. what could be causing this? has anyone expirenced this before? thanks for any help

hi guys, i am trying to hook up an aftermarket amp and sub in my LS but the power wire is a little short. i thought 17' would be enough but it stops just above the gas tank. i have 3 ft of ground cable which is more than enough but i am worried about the connectivity and maybe some heat issues since it is very close to the gas tank. i was thinking about cutting some of the ground cable and extending the power wire and soldering the two wires together then wrapping them in electrical tape. my other option would be to get an extra fuse and extending it that way. any suggestions?

does the car jerk when you shift to drive or reverse. if so then you might need to adjust your throttle cable. common problem on LS'. also you can check the engine and trans codes if you go to lexls.com. very simple you can use a paper clip or small wire.

first i whold suggestinstalling a 4300k or 5000k system. the amount of useable light in a 6k kit is very limited at best. there is a phillips screw on the top corner of your headlights which will allow you to remove the corner lights. the other bolts are 10mm.

sorry guys that i just found this info and i've had it for at least 3 years now. Here is a PDF showing all of the non interference engine in the Lexus line. This is straight from Toyota/Lexus and will show all the non-interference engines. Good Luck to all performing timing belt changes. interference_verification_check_for_ohc_engine.pdf

wouldn't WD-40 or PBlaster be a good way to fix the problem. I know both are able to be used on electrical components so that would not be a issue and it should lube the part enuff to stop the squeek.

i think the air ride makes a difference. is your car sagging on one corner. if so you can use some kinda ooze to seal and replace the air in the suspension. if not and it is just your ball joint then it's more than likely your lower one. not sure if air ride suspension comes with upper control arms but that is where the upper ball joint is located.

just to clear something up the starter install/removal requires you to remove the intake manifold. the timing belt only requires you to remove the timing belt covers. very different. you can also rebuild the starter. if you search here or on clublexus.com you will find a thread by GrandLS400 who rebuilt his starter. basically a copper contact will wear out on the starter causing it to not function properly but this copper part can be purchased individually and replaced. also remember to buy new intake manifold gaskets if you do the starter.

if you check out clublexus.com you may be able to rebuild the cluster yourself. you will see a sticky about it.

it might mean that the 90k service was skipped. there is a debate on weather the 95-97 engine is interference or not. interference means that if you timing belt breaks the piston will smash the valves causing major damage and expenses. you should have a sticker under the hood stating when the belt was last changed. my car had the 90k service performed in 98 and about 200k and 8 years later i changed that one which was still pretty good lookin. you can also go to your local dealer and they will be able to give you more details.

the timing belt should last at least 90k but on a LS430 you have an interference engine which means that if the TIMING belt breaks then your piston will hit a valve and cause major damage and a high repair bill. so changing this before the recommended time is a not a bad idea. your serpentine belt will not harm your engine but it will leave you stranded. you should be able to change it your self. there is a pulley in the front of the engine that is used to adjust the tension on the belt. it should be 14mm. it is located next to the fan pulley. just make sure you use a breaker bar or long handled wrench because it is designed to provide tension and a short wrench will prob not work. you should also have a sticker on the underside of the hood that shows the correct routing of the belt. just make sure that when you route it around the ac compressor you follow the threads because you can destroy one of the teeth grooves if you don't do it correctly. it is not a major issue even if you do because you should still have at least 5 more rows of teeth. the 3uzfe engine in your car is very similar to the 1uzfe in the 1st and 2nd gens so you can check out lexls.com for more info on changing both belts but it you do decide to do the TIMING belt make sure you search the forums dilligently because of the fact that you engine is interference.

this might also be a throttle cable. does the car shift hard into drive or reverse. it sounds like the car thinks the gas pedal is being pressed when it isn't which is a common issue with an out of alignment throttle cable. do a search and you will find more info on this.

check the throttle cable. another common symptom is that when you apply the cruise control the gas pedal will auto adjust to the correct position. here is a pdf about it you can also search for more information. transmission_servicing_at.pdf