abo

Yep, I have the same problem, I was able to remove three torx screws and one screw inside, still doesn't have enough slack to take a good look and connect the rod, now I must warn everyone, after messing with all this (without any luck) I guess I messed up the setup now sometime my door doesn't close right and inside manual lock is little hard to lock/unlock. Still looking forward to do it, If I get clear instruction.. Please look at post #7 on the thread I started on 8/21/08 entitled Drivers Door Actuator Replacement. I had the same problem you are having and that post describes in detail what has to be removed in order to manipulate the existing actuator. Well unless I am not looking at the right thread, post #7 , doesn't have the information you mention, can you be kind and post it again, so we can see. PS. I love the global nature of the Lexus forums. Isn't it amazing that 3 people (doc2b07, abo and saikaiting) located in Houston, IL and Germany are posting the exact same questions using the exact same pics? Hopefully this post will help all 3 of you at the exact same time.

Yep, I have the same problem, I was able to remove three torx screws and one screw inside, still doesn't have enough slack to take a good look and connect the rod, now I must warn everyone, after messing with all this (without any luck) I guess I messed up the setup now sometime my door doesn't close right and inside manual lock is little hard to lock/unlock. Still looking forward to do it, If I get clear instruction..

Linkage is the "silver rod" which came with the new actuator. It will link the new actuator to the old actuator. I assume it is about 300 mm long with a right angle (90 degree) bend. After the bend it is about 25mm long. At the end of the 25mm length it terminates with an enlarged head. This head is too big to push through the hole in the old actuator lever hole so it must be ground or filed down. You could enlarge the hole in the old actuator lever but it is plastic and enlarging the hole would make it too weak. This is the explantion of linkage I sent you on Nov 6th. I don't know how to explain it more than this. Ok, I tried this weekend with the help of my neighbour (he is pretty goo din mechnical work) but no luck, first of all we didn't find any existing hole in the manual lever where I can fit the new linkage, secondly the existing rod is thin and round, there is no way one can drill a whole in it, at least the size we need to pass through the new actuator rod, I guess my setup is different, so I end up putting the door panel back, any ideas....

To bad you're not in the So. Cal. area, I would be happy to do it free for you. If you have any mechanical aptitude, once you've done it once you'll see how easy it is and you could come close to doing it with your eyes closed the second time. I would actually use the "dog knot" on the actuator end and use a modified "Z" (2- 90 degrees) on the other end where it attaches to the original actuator. With the door panel off, it shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to do the actual hook up once you have done 1 and have a clear understanding of what to do (and how easy it is). I'm having the same problem with the actuators on my '99 RX300 and have read Indi's suggestion on how to fix. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined--I'm a bean counter. I am however, in Austin TX, and will offer you the same deal as you did--pay you or a decent meal to fix mine or at least show me how to fix. Houston isn't that far away for me to drive. Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Please contact me at 2weims1box@myway.com. Thanks! Well that make two of us, Ijust hope some kind heart help us in person or over the phone, since you are willing to drive to Houston, I can help you with what I know Free, removing inside panel, etc, . So if we can some help we will be able to fix both door actuators.

To bad you're not in the So. Cal. area, I would be happy to do it free for you. If you have any mechanical aptitude, once you've done it once you'll see how easy it is and you could come close to doing it with your eyes closed the second time. I would actually use the "dog knot" on the actuator end and use a modified "Z" (2- 90 degrees) on the other end where it attaches to the original actuator. With the door panel off, it shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to do the actual hook up once you have done 1 and have a clear understanding of what to do (and how easy it is). First of all thanks for the free offer, I am pretty handy with stuff, actually I am an IT guy and pretty much do anything with desktop/laptop/servers, etc and I get more exicited knowing that it is very easy, it just that I have never done it, do you think and consider talking me through over the phone this weekend, since I have the door panel off, I just need help with attaching the new actuator to the original and hooking up the wiring, I wish you will be able to that, please let me know my email is getsw@alltel.net - Thank you very much in advance...

I am so close but still too far, have the inside cover open and I can see the inside now, but just don't understand or say don't trust myself to un-screw the original actuator and hook up the new one, specially the rod alligntment, size, etc, Is any of you are in Houston, TX area and help me out, I will pay you or buy you a decent meal or whatever, I hate to put it all back without fixing it. thanks P.S. please reply to my email: getsw@alltel.net