darryl zero

Replaced the servo for $200, disconnected the battery for a while to wipe HVAC the error codes, and now she's right as rain. What bugs me really is that on my less expensive Toyota the HVAC mode controller is a mechanical slider knob on the dash that you operate with your finger. Was that so inconvenient about that system that we needed to replace it with a computer controlled servo motor that costs $200 and an hour's labor to fix when it invariably goes bad? I mean, I'm still using my finger to change modes... Oh yeah, and Lexus of Glendale, CA? They must HATE people who work on their own cars if my experience there was any indication.

Didn't realize the big typo in the title... Mods, can you please correct it?

2001 Lexus RX300, had the clicking noise coming from the center console, which is the servo actuator that switches the A/C modes from footwell only / face only / footwell and face combined/ demist/ etc. Well, the clicking sound got REALLY loud for a few minutes, then stopped. Now the modes won't change at all, and she's stuck on footwell only mode.. I pulled the actuator out and cleaned it as recommended on these forums. The contacts were a little dirty, but otherwise the servo unit looked fine. No stripped gears or melted plastic indicating that something was physically wrong. Put it back in and nothing... The servo won't turn and change the air flow to something other than footwell, even though my display screen says I should be getting a faceful of air. I ran the self diagnostic and received codes 31 (air mix door position sensor circuit) and 41 (air mix door servo motor circuit) Disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, hoping that the system might reset. Nope. Still only footwell mode. So is my servo gone, or is it something else that just won't send a signal to the servo? Lexus wants $200+ tax for a new servo, no refunds as it is an electrical item. Want to make sure it's what I need before paying for it.

Yeah, the shop I go to (A-1 Auto in West Los Angeles) quoted $260 installed... $200 for the sensor (has to be California compliant) and $60 for labor. I was going to do my own rear suspension but the price they quoted me for two new struts installed was only $150 more than what it would have cost me for the parts and shipping, so I spent the cash to avoid half a day busting my knuckles. Still, no need to replace an O2 sensor if it's the gas cap or an air hose. If anyone can be more specific about the location of the hose which may have popped off, I'd appreciate it.

I'm taking care of my aunt's 2001 RX300, 160K miles on the clock. She reports that every now and then the check engine lights (and VSC, and traction control) go on, but then switch off after a few days. I've been driving thecar for the last week and three of those days the check engine lights were on. I took the car to a shop and the repoted it was a bad O2 sensor (bank 2, sensor 1). I had an O2 sensor go bad in my '99 RAV4 and the MPG went to crap. Maybe 60% the fuel economy of the car normally. The RX300 is still pulling the same MPG with the light on as off... ~21 MPG combined city/hwy driving. I've heard that the problem could be caused by a bad gas cap seal, or the hose under the airfilter box being yanked off. But would these cause the code reader to indicate that it was a bad O2 sensor? I don't want to spend $260 to replace the O2 sensor if it doesn't need it. If it is the fuel cap, should I get a new one from the Toyota dealer or will a generic one from Pep Boys do? If it is the hose on the air filter box, can anyone be specific as to the location of the hose? Can't tell if it's loose if I'm looking in the wrong place. Thanks!