blueridge

I went with the General Grabber HTS tired about a year ago. So far, I like them a lot and especially the price. They also look good too which isn't a big concern for me, safety and comfort is. The wear on this tire seems to be holding up well, I do rotate every 6K and run 3 PSI over recommended pressure. Last, I did run them through a good 3-4 snows and they did well. As far as Khumos go, I'd stay away with them. I had them on our Camry and removed them after 20K.

Hey Code, what do you think about pulling the neg batt terminal for about 5 min to reset the computer in this case? Is it possible the adaptive computer has tweaked timing, etc for 91 octane?

About 4" from the motor entrance there is a further reduction of the feed area. This may be the problem, I've found that taking the last 3" of the nylon and bending it away from the curl will help straighten it. Take a flashlight and look down the tube and you'll see what I mean.

Yes, version 8.1 and 9.1 disks have the override feature removed. Thank you Lexus for being my parent!

It's located in the rear hatch area just behind the jack.

Vibration for me is on the entire car and the steering. As I have said I seem to be having two distinct problems. Vibration occurs on certain waves of the roads if you know what I mean while driving steady and much worse when you step on it to th floor. Now sitting behind the driver you can feel the vibration on your back as long as the gas is pedal is even slightly pressed. Once you let go of the gas the vibration stops totally. This is an AWD. Sometimes I think its the muffler because when you give gas you have explosions that are loud and they vibrate the exhaust which someone transmits most of the vibration to the rear seat. Lexus told me it was the drive shafts to the diff from the front that cause the vibration and quoted me 1100 to repair. Plus now I am throwing engine codes P0125 and P1133 or P1130. I think its the air fuel meter sensor or it could be an exhaust leak but I don't know. P1133 and P1130 are both codes for the bank 1 sensor 1. Sometimes you can get P0125 with this if the sensor is bad and not the heater. P1135 is the code for the heater on bank 1 sensor 1.

Try taking out the air filter and fastening back the box and accelerating through the RPM range and see if the noise goes away.

Supposed to be the same: Toyota part 89467-48011 Denso part 234-9009. The one downstream from the CAT is the different one.

Just out of curiosity....How many miles on the belt?

I got both codes once or twice during this problem where I reset the CEL about 20 times in 5 days. However, the 1135 code was the one that kept coming back on. P1130 only came on twice with the P1135, replaced the sensor with OEM and the light has stayed off since.

I recently did this. The safest and best way in my opinion is via Sewell Lexus. They cut for free and shipped the same day, I was very impressed! My only remote key was in very bad shape so I ordered a new shell and a new master remote for $186 including shipping. Again, they cut via your VIN for free. The shell was $53.32 and the master remote was $125.56. Keep in mind, you'll have to program your additional master remote to start the vehicle. You can find the procedure by searching around here. This might not be the absolute cheapest way to go, but it's a heck of a lot cheaper that your local stealership and in my opinion, safer than e bay or some other online deal.

I switched from Yoko to General since they were #1 in CR and TR. So far, pretty dang happy. My answers in bold below:

Wow! Good luck with that...

If you are positive it is not the disk but rather an internal problem, I'd like for you to read through all pages of this thread: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-430-mod...k-detected.html I took my ECU apart and repaired the laser eye motor, this is the part that seems to fail the most. I would not do this unless you are experienced and consider this a last resort. My navigation works fine now, but prior to this I would get "No Disk Detected" message and also my destination menu icons were greyed out when the disk could be read. Best of luck!

I've bought about 4 or 5 AutoZone Gold over the years in various vehicles and they are excellent! I usually try to time it so I hit my $20 off the purchase with their rewards card. When their batteries start to fail it is not like a light switch, rather a slow degrade around the 5 year mark.

Need more information, please post your mileage, any engine maintenance that has been performed, that is due, or over due. Have you had any check engine lights recently? If so, what codes? Also, what gas octane and company name are you using? Some of the things that could be causing this are: 1) Cheap gas 2) Knock sensor(s) going bad 3) Spark plugs need changing or were replaced with non OEM Denso or NKG's. This engine has a tendency not to like non OEM iridium plugs. I had similar problems and after a few months of trying various grades of gas companies, octanes, cleaners, etc. I started to get the P0330 code which is a knock sensor. I also changed back from Bosch Fusion plugs to OEM Denso IR and that helped some. As for the oil consumption, are you having any smoke coming out of the exhaust? If so and it's blue that is a problem. Pull the front engine valve cover to rule out engine sludge. These engines have a history of making sludge and have a 8 year warranty on they via a class action lawsuit. Also check the ground and undercarriage for leaks. If it's not being burnt it's coming out of the rear main seal, crankshaft seal, or some where else.

I started complaining about this on another site. I tried various gas brands and octanes, seafoam treatment, PCV cleaning, RedLine cleaner in the tank, etc. Nothing seemed to work very well and about 6 months later I get P0330. This is a knock sensor code, I tried putting it off and trying other things but it would com on every week or so. I wound up replacing them and the problem went away. My sound was like a bunch of small gravels in the engine when hitting the 4,000 RPM mark on acceleration.

How did you do this? Did you need a signal converter? I've been looking at this camera: http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_707VTL300/...h=backup+camera to use, I have a 01 with Navigation. I was hoping all it would be plug and play with the exception being to splice into the back up wire so it would flip on when placed into R.

I assume you are talking about the servos for the AC/Heat system? If so, there are two, here are the OEM part numbers: Air Mix Servo: #87106-48020 Mode Servo: #87106-30371 I managed to find the mode servo on e bay new for $45, and the air mix at parts.com for $116. parts.com does have these for the best price around, they are OEM Toyota parts as well. When you do the part number search, you need to remove the dash. The next best price was irontoad.com at $125. Trust me, I've looked everywhere for these servos. Good luck

Try selecting different modes for the ac/heat vents, then turn the temp knob hot then cold. More than likely it's the servo that controls vent placement and its getting stuck at the upper vent position. See if it stops when you select it to the both, defrost, or lower vent mode. There are two servos and they are located behind the left hand side of the glove box. Thanks for the rely. Next time it does this I'll try your sugestions. Does it matter if the a/c is off when it does this, or does the servos have a mind of there own? Doesn't matter if it's the on AC, fan, or off. With the auto mode off, the servos should work based upon directed position via the temp knob and/or vent push button.

Try selecting different modes for the ac/heat vents, then turn the temp knob hot then cold. More than likely it's the servo that controls vent placement and its getting stuck at the upper vent position. See if it stops when you select it to the both, defrost, or lower vent mode. There are two servos and they are located behind the left hand side of the glove box.

Let me guess you have 2001 or older model? This is a common problem. You're better off getting one online or at a junk yard for $500.

Agree with Lenore. Hey, are you doing this at Lexus? If so, save yourself some $$$ and check at Toyota. Remind them it's the same as a Highlander and see if you don't save at least $300.

I have the same whine on my 03 rx300 awd while driving right after start-up. Never noticed it until this year... hmmm? Same thing on my 01 since I got it with 45K on it. Figured it was normal...

For a while, the Autozone Duralast Gold ($90) was #1 in CR. I've put these in various vehicles over the last 5 years with no problems to date. This battery is now #2 in CR behind the Diehard Plantnum which is $180.