slicclex

I am having some trouble figuring out why most of the switches on my LS400 are not working: door locks, trunk & gas switch, and power seats. Had someone in the passenger seat who was adjusting the power seat and everything stopped working from there on. Every time I hit the door lock switch, I can hear a clicking noise coming from the fuse box under the steering wheel. Replaced the 30 amp breaker figuring that would solve it but no dice. I'm a little stumped on what might be causing all these components to not work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

The speakers in my 91 LS400 have already blown out and looking on some insight for new speakers. Don't plan on modifying the speaker boxes in the doors so I'm sticking with the 4" size. I'm looking for better mid - high range, installed a new sub last year so I'm not worried about bass levels. Been comparing these speakers so far: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11569_...ne+SPS-400.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9118_P...udio+db401.html http://www.crutchfield.com/p_065S45/Boston...&tab=review Anyone have experiences with these speakers/brands listed? Feel free to suggest any other ones I didn't catch yet. Thanks

Go to your local junkyard. I payed like $150 for mine and worked like new.

Yes, Jack at the smog shop was giving you some bad info there. But all the info you're getting so far on the list here is correct. The PCV valve can be seen to the left of the "32" on the valve cover. That big Intake Air Connector Pipe (IACP) is indeed one big plastic piece. The thin (~1/2" OD) black hose that comes forwards and then returns next to it goes down to the infamous idle-up valve on the PS pump. The thicker black hose running from left to right goes from the IACP to the Idle Speed Control Valve or Idle Air Control Valve. On my '91, those thin hoses to the PS idle-up valve had become so brittle that one of them cracked and I figured I should replace them both. When I removed the one from that plastic barb sticking out from the IACP, the barb broke off with it. It looks to me that this is what happened to your car as well, and the zip tie sort of holds it in place. It's not a big deal to have a slight crack there - it's just that a slight amount of air will come in that is not filtered or measured. Should have no effect on engine performance. But I fixed mine anyway - here's how: I bought a segment of straight 1/4" OD (I think) hard brake line at Pep Boys for like $5. Cut a ~1.5" length off one end (it has a slight flare on the end to keep the fitting on). Remove the fitting, keeping the 1.5" end length. Drilled a hole in the IACP where the barb used to be (slightly enlarging the hole that is already there), sizing it so this brake line end is a snug, almost press-fit (the flared end is sticking out). Put the vacuum hose over the new barb, hose clamp it on there, and it's good as new. If you decide to fix it like this, just so the smog guys can't ding you for it, and you haven't already done it, replacing those vacuum lines with new ones is probably a good idea. I think I used 7/32" ID hose (generic, like $5 for 6 feet of it). You nailed it. That's exactly what happened to mine when I was replacing the spark plugs a couple years ago and I've been having to place a zip ties or paper clips to prevent it from leaking. I like that idea you presented. Don't feel too justified to buy a $250 part where a simple fix for the IACP can be done for less than $20.

Oh man, I have been looking for a site that sells OEM parts with diagrams & part names for months! Thank you for this information B)

So what exactly is the name of that part where the hose is connected? Looking to purchase that at a local junkyard but need to know what it's called.

Yes I know the PCV valve is on the drivers side where it says "four cam 32V", I've replaced it a couple times myself. It's too bad they were acting like fools because I have been doing business with them for five years now. Guess they under new management because they all looked like dip**** these days.

Today I went to get my 91 LS400 smogged so I could re-register the registration. Was informed at the shop that it failed the 15 mph test because of the PCV valve. I told him that was bull*BLEEP* because I replaced the PCV valve a year ago and he told me there was a zip tie around it. I knew what he was talking about but pretty sure this is not a PCV valve. Here is what we were talking about: Are there 2 PCV valves on the LS400?

Yea I already knew they apply the tint inside the interior. I'm just prepping the outside windows so the spots are less or not noticeable when the tint is applied.

^ I forgot about that one. I'll give it a shot.

Well, I tried both the coke and CLR technique today. The coke didn't clear anything up, just made the windows smell good. CLR cleared everything up and left black residue on the paper towel while I was drying them up. All the white spots are gone but there is still clear spots that are etched in permanently like jchrome said. I'll probably try that product JEnunnez suggested and call it day if it still doesn't clear up. Reason why I'm trying to get them super clean is because I am planning to get my windows tinted within a week or two

NOVUS makes a very good three step process for cleaning Lexan and other plastic surfaces. I've used it on my airplane windshield and side windows. I've also used it on faded headlight lenses and glass. Go to any NOVUS windshield repair shop and they'll have exactly what you need. Thanks, I'll be sure to ask them about the product soon

I've had major water spots on all my side windows and I need some suggestions on how to remove them. I've already tried using the white vinegar technique and that removed some of it. Next I am going to try coca cola, CLR, and razor blade to remove the spots. Any other solutions that might work?

I'm still not sure on that one either. I think it calculates the curb weight and drivetrain loss by your quarter mile time but not 100% sure. I've looked on google for answers but they're tons of mixed answers.

I was shocked when I saw the results. What is the average quarter mile time for 91's?

No, the 100 mph is referring to the max speed at the end of the quarter mile run. I know very well the LS400 can hit WAY over 100+

I have this application for the itouch that tests the 0-60 times and 1/4 mile runs. I ran my 91 Lexus LS400 on a run and came up with these results: Can the LS400 really run high 14's? I don't have any mods except for maybe deleted resonators

Edit: Wheels are off newer ES350. Said offset is 35mm. Will this work?

As in the hub centric spacers or lug bolts? Word, craigslist is the best.

Just got word that they are 225/50/17 all around. I gave him an offer already, waiting for his response. Will these wheels fit on my LS400?

Are these IS350 wheels and is this a good deal? Will these fit on my 91 LS400? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/877580499.html

Yeah I tried replacing the fuel filter myself but didn't have a bigger bucket to hold the gas in so I just gave up. I think you'll find replacing the fuel injectors much easier than replacing the fuel filter. You might want them cleaned instead of replacing them, would help you save $$$ since Toyota injectors don't seem to fail.

Yeah I replaced my fuel injectors too but haven't changed the fuel filter yet. Do you install the fuel filter yourself?

I have the same problem you have. I replaced the whole MAF unit, spark plug and wires, crankshaft sensor, and cleaned the TB. Nothing seemed to solve it. I don't know if anyone can figure this problem out, not even the Lexus dealers could figure this out.

I also found someone who were selling mint condition LS460 wheels for $300 but luckily I read one of these threads on this forum and canceled the transaction the day after.